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THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


PR  2  9  1992 


THE 
COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


The 

Complete  Home 

Landscape 

By 

Arthur  J.  Jennings 

IN    COLLABORATION    WITH 

Leonard  H.  Johnson 


NEW  YORK 
THE  A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE  CO.  Inc. 

1926 


M  C  SUrte  CoIU«e 


Copyright,  1924,  by 
The  a.  T.  De  La  Mare  Co.  Inc. 


First  Printing,  March  1924 
Second  Printing,  May  1926 


CONTENTS 

Page 

Introduction 1 

Principles  of  Design 3 

Styles  of  Landscape  Development 5 

Landscape  Construction 8-48 

Locating  the  House 8 

Clearing  the  Land 9 

Grading 11 

Making  the  Lawn 15 

Drives  and  Walks 25 

Walls  and  Wall  Building 41 

Plant  Materials  and  Their  Use 49-80 

The  Objects  of  Planting 49 

Distances  for  Planting 50 

The  Planting  Plan 52 

The  Principles  of  Planting 62 

Pruning 68 

Winter  Protection 78 

Garden  Design  and  Garden  Making 81-118 

Color  in  the  Garden 81 

The  Formal  Garden 83 

Rose  Gardens .  87 

The  Perennial  or  Hardy  Border 93 

The  Rock  Garden 99 

Water  Gardens 105 

Garden  Accessories 109 

Selected  Plant  Lists  for  Various  Purposes 119-150 

Plants  for  General  Use 119 

Plants  for  Shaded  Situations 129 

Plants  for  Dry  Soils 130 

Plants  for  Wet  or  Marshy  Places 132 

Plants  for  the  Seashore 133 

Plants  for  Binding  Banks 133 

Plants  for  Windbreaks  and  Screens 134 

Plants  for  Formal  Hedges 134 

Dwarf  Hedge  Plants  for  Edging 135 

Plants  for  Natural  Hedges 135 


viii  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Contents — continued 

Page 

Plants  for  Sky  Line  Effects 136 

Berry-bearing  Trees  and  Shrubs 137 

Plants  Attractive  to  Birds 138 

Plants  with  Colored  Foliage 139 

Rapid  Growing  Plant  Materials 140 

Trees  and  Shrubs  with  Colored  Bark 141 

Plants  for  City  Conditions 141 

Street  or  Avenue  Trees 142 

Plants  for  Foundation  Plantings 143 

Ground  Covers 144 

Vines  for  Various  Purposes 145 

Aquatics  or  Water  Plants 146 

Plants  for  Rock  Gardens 146 

Succession  of  Bloom  in  Flowering  Shrubs 148 

Index 151 

••<J«i  ffl  mC>" 

LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Page 
Frontispiece — Suggested  plan  for  the  arrangement  and  planting  of  a  home 

plot iv 

Fig.      1 — Simple  shrubbery  border  flanking  a  gate 2 

Fig.      2 — Placing  the  house  on  the  property 6 

Fig.      3 — The  subsoil  should  be  graded  as  carefully  as  the  surface 7 

Fig.      4 — When  the  house  sets  below  the  street  grade 8 

Fig.      5 — If  the  old  sub-grade  pitches  toward  the  house 9 

Fig.      6 — If  the  house  is  located  above  the  street  level 10 

Fig.      7 — If  the  house  sets  well  back  from  the  street 10 

Fig.      8 — Simplifying  the  grading  of  the  suburban  lot 11 

Fig.      9 — Possible  treatments  of  a  slightly  rising  lawn 12 

Fig.    10 — Lowering  the  grade  around  valuable  trees 14 

Fig.    11 — Raising  the  grade  around  valuable  trees 15 

Fig.    12 — A  good  outlet  should  be  provided  for  drains 16 

Fig.    13 — Simple  but  effective  type  of  dry  well 16 

Fig.    14 — Type  of  dry  well  for  a  lawn 17 

Fig.    15 — Tree  groups  as  excuses  for  curves  in  a  drive 18 

Fig.    16 — ^Joining  the  walk  or  drive  to  the  highway 19 

Fig.    17 — A  formal  entrance  to  an  estate 20 

Fig.    18 — Simple  but  satisfactory  arrangement  of  a  walk 21 

Fig.    19 — The  walk  and  drive  kept  separate 22 

Fig.    20 — Sometimes  the  drive  can  serve  also  as  a  walk 23 

Fig.    21 — When  a  long,  straight  path  is  unavoidable 24 

Fig.    22 — A  long,  straight  path  may  have  a  hedge  border 25 

Fig.    23 — Connecting  the  drive  and  the  path 26 

Fig.    24 — Where  the  path  is  carried  around  the  house 27 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS  ix 

List  of  Illustrations — continued 

Page 

Fig.    25 — One  way  to  provide  necessary  turning  space 28 

Fig.    26 — An  attractive  driveway  arrangement 29 

Fig.    27 — Where  a  straight  path  must  cross  the  lawn 30 

Fig,    28 — When  the  service  drive  joins  the  main  entrance 30 

Fig.    29 — The  turn-around  can  sometimes  be  made  oval 31 

Fig.    30 — The  turn-around  on  an  axis  of  the  house. 32 

Fig.    31 — Neighbors  can  often  combine  on  a  party  drive 33 

Fig.    32 — Construction  of  four  kinds  of  paths 34 

Fig.    33 — Construction  of  a  flagstone  walk 35 

Fig.    34 — Plan  of  a  stepping-stone  walk 35 

Fig.    35 — Two  kinds  of  stone  walk 36 

Fig.    36 — An  attractive  pattern  for  narrow  brick  paths 37 

Fig.    37 — The  basket  pattern  for  a  brick  walk 37 

Fig.    39 — The  herring-bone  pattern  for  brick  walks 38 

Fig.    39 — Cross-section  of  water-bound  macadam  driveway 39 

Fig.    40 — Two  types  of  concrete  gutter  for  driveways 39 

Fig.    41 — Section  of  catch  basin  with  removable  cover 40 

Fig.    42 — Similar  type  of  catch  basin  for  wide  drives 40 

Fig.    43 — Brick  retaining  wall 41 

Fig.    44— Three  types  of  wall 42 

Fig.    45 — Diagram  of  quoin  binder  in  wall 42 

Fig.    46 — Three  types  of  ashler  wall  construction 43 

Fig.    47 — Section  through  a  retaining  wall 44 

Fig.    58 — A  dry  wall  used  as  a  retaining  wall 45 

Fig.    49 — Cross-section  design  for  a  retaining  wall 46 

Fig.    50 — Sectional  view  of  a  dry  wall 47 

Fig.    51 — Some  planting  distances  for  hedges 48 

Fig.    52 — How  a  hillside  can  be  planted 51 

Fig.    53 — The  home  grounds  divided  into  three  portions 52 

Fig.    54 — Two  important  uses  of  trees 54 

Fig.    55 — The  trees  should  frame  the  house 55 

Fig.    56 — Plan  of  a  corner  planting 56 

Fig.    57 — An  attractively  planted  corner 57 

Fig.    58-^^*ian  of  an  informal  border 58 

Fig.    59 — A  suggestion  as  to  foundation  planting. 60 

Fig.    60 — Well  planned  grouping  of  trees  along  a  drive 61 

Fig.    61 — Another  well  planned  driveway 62 

Fig.    62 — Good  use  of  trees  along  a  branching  walk 63 

Fig.    63 — Types  of  trees  and  their  important  uses 64 

Fig.    64 — Diagrammatic  examples  of  tree  grouping 65 

Fig.    65 — Right  and  wrong  methods  in  setting  a  tree 66 

Fig.    66 — Plants  heeled  in  until  planting  time 67 

Fig.    67 — A  correctly  planted  tree 68 

Fig.    68 — Trees  three  inches  in  caliper  should  be  guyed 69 

Fig.    69 — Dynamite  can  be  used  in  digging  holes 69 

Fig.    70 — The  correct  depth  for  planting  an  evergreen 70 

Fig.    71 — Method  of  moving  large  trees  in  Winter 71 

Fig.    72 — "Heading  back"  to  induce  bushiness 72 

Fig.    73 — Top  pruning  to  produce  an  upright  main  trunk 73 

Fig.    74 — How  to  cut  off  a  large  limb 74 

Fig.    75 — Where  to  prune  flowering  shrubs 75 

Fig.    76 — Vigorous  pruning  induces  abundant  blooming 76 

Fig.    77 — Prune  a  hedge  frequently  to  make  it  dense 77 


X  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

List  of  Illustrations — continued 

Page 

Fig.    78 — Well  proportioned  use  of  plants  on  a  color  basis 79 

Fig.    79 — The  right  use  of  color  foliage 80 

Fig.    80 — Some  geometrical  bases  for  formal  gardens 82 

Fig.    81 — Suggested  plan  for  a  small  formal  garden 84 

Fig.    82 — Design  for  more  elaborate  formal  garden 86 

Fig.    83 — How  to  construct  a  Rose  bed 87 

Fig.    84 — The  depth  to  plant  a  Rose  bush 88 

Fig.    85 — Protecting  Roses  in  Winter 89 

Fig.    86 — Two  planting  plans  for  a  border 92 

Fig.    87 — A  plan  for  a  simple  but  satisfactory  border 94 

Fig.    88 — Plan  for  a  double  border  along  a  grass  path 96 

Fig.    89 — Estimating  bulbs  for  a  circular  bed 97 

Fig.    90 — Section  through  a  well  prepared  rockery 100 

Fig.    91 — The  two  chief  classes  of  rock 101 

Fig.    92 — An  overhanging  rock  as  a  feature 102 

Fig.    93 — Right  and  wrong  ways  to  set  Alpine  plants 103 

Fig.    94 — Construction  details  of  a  small  concrete  pool 104 

Fig.    95 — Cross  section  of  pubbled  clay  pool 105 

Fig.    96 — Cross  section  of  artificial  creek  bed 106 

Fig.    97 — Detail  of  drain  and  overflow  pipes 106 

Fig.    98 — Attractive  double  concrete  pool  with  waterfall 107 

Fig.    99 — Details  of  foundation  and  coping  construction 108 

Fig.  100 — A  simple  rustic  garden  seat 109 

Fig.  101 — A  summer  house  with  open  sides 109 

Fig.  102 — Making  the  pergola  useful Ill 

Fig.  103 — A  circular  pergola  as  a  central  lawn  feature 112 

Fig.  104 — Elevation  of  single-post  pergola 113 

Fig.  105 — Details  and  dimensions  for  pergola 114 

Fig.  106 — Pergola  used  to  enclose  a  garden 115 

Fig.  107 — A  simple  but  graceful  garden  gate 116 

Fig.  108 — Elevation  of  arch  of  garden  gate 117 

Fig.  109 — Plan  and  dimensions  of  an  athletic  field 120 

Fig.  110 — Dimensions  for  tennis  courts 122 

Fig.  Ill — Dimensions  and  layout  for  curling  and  quoits 122 

Fig.  112 — Plan  and  dimensions  for  baseball  field 124 

Fig.  113 — Shape  and  size  of  area  for  lawn  bowls 126 

Fig.  114 — Playing  grounds  for  soccer  football,  ice  hockey  and  croquet.  . .  .  128 


^ 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  aim  of  this  book  is  to  answer  explicitly  any  question  that 
might  arise  relative  to  the  creation  and  maintenance  of  the 
home  grounds,  from  the  time  of  selecting  the  site  for  the  house 
to  the  occupancy  of  the  finished  home.    The  word  "home"  used  in 
this  sense,  comprises  the  grounds  as  well  as  the  dwelling  and  service 
buildings. 

This  does  sound  ambitious,  but  we  believe  there  is  a  demand  for 
such  a  book,  and  therefore  respectfully  submit  this  one,  in  an  endeavor 
to  fill  the  need.  The  information  here  contained  is  the  result  of  over 
twenty  years  joint  experience  and  study  of  the  subject,  and  of  con- 
stantly observing  and  acquiring  knowledge  from  numerous  actual 
plantings. 

Unfortunately,  the  average  property  owner  has  been  led  to  believe 
that  the  word  "Landscape"  refers  only  to  large  areas  or  estates,  and 
as  a  natural  result,  feels  that  his  own  problem  is  too  small  to  justify 
his  seeking  professional  advice.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  can  be  said 
that  the  smaller  the  property  the  more  difficult  it  is  to  treat  it  cor- 
rectly. With  this  in  mind,  we  have  incorporated  in  this  work  all 
details,  common  (or  uncommon)  to  the  city  or  suburban  lot. 

Our  conception  of  the  mission  of  the  landscape  man  is  "to  promote 
the  comfort  and  enjoyment  of  the  majority  (the  urban  dwellers)  who 
as  a  general  rule  have  little  or  no  access  to  rural  scenery,  by  introduc-*^ 
ing  into  their  very  homes,  that  peaceful  atmosphere  and  quiet  scenery 
found  in  nature."  Indeed  it  is  only  when  each  small  property  owner 
becomes  personally  interested  in  beautifying  his  surroundings  that 
we  can  look  forward  to  a  national  improvement  in  home  and  civic 
planning  and  planting.   ^ 

Without  the  valuable  assistance  of  Mr.  L.  H.  Johnson,  it  would 
have  been  well-nigh  impossible  to  make  this  volume  as  useful  and 
interesting  as  the  author  hopes  it  is.  The  value  of  the  illustrations 
cannot  be  overestimated,  and  their  clearness  makes  them  self-ex- 
planatory. This  is  particularly  true  of  the  construction  work  sketches, 
although  the  author  is  also  greatly  indebted  to  Mr.  Johnson  for  much 
of  the  text  matter  dealing  with  that  particular  phase  of  the  subject. 
For  the  logical  arrangement  and  general  appearance  of  the  book, 
the  author  is  indebted  to  Mr,  E.  L.  D.  Seymour,  whose  close  coopera- 
tion has  been  a  great  help. 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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PRINCIPLES  OF  DESIGN 

ALL  landscape  work,  no  matter  what  its  size  or  where  it  is  located, 
to  be  a  success  as  an  artistic  creation  must  have  four  dominant 
qualities,  namely,  Unity,  Variety,  Character  and  Finish.    The 
surest  way  of  attaining  the  efifect  aimed  at  is  to  be  simple  in  treatment. 
The  true  artist  aims  to  produce  the  best  effect  by  using  the  smallest 
variety  of  kinds  in  as  Hmited  a  quantity  as  possible. 

To  be  permanent,  the  work  must  be  done  step  by  step  in  proper 
sequence  as  outHned  here. 

All  good  views  should  be  preserved.  Sometimes  they  can  be  im- 
proved or  emphasized  by  "framing  the  picture"  with  trees.  Never 
fell  a  tree  until  the  step  is  found  really  necessary — but  then  go  ahead 
and  cut  it  down  rather  than  mar  an  otherwise  good  effect  or  view. 

Unity.  Prof.  L.  H.  Bailey  very  aptly  defines  unity  as  applied  to 
the  landscape  as  follows:  "Every  yard  should  be  a  picture,  that  is, 
the  area  should  be  set  off  from  every  other  area,  and  it  should  have 
such  character  that  the  observer  catches  its  entire  effect  and  purpose 
without  stopping  to  analyze  its  parts.  The  yard  (home  grounds) 
should  be  one  thing,  one  area,  with  every  feature  contributing  its 
part  to  one  strong  and  homogeneous  effect."  No  one  item  should  be 
individually  conspicuous,  but  all  should  help  in  creating  the  quiet 
harmonious  whole. 

Variety.  When  used  in  this  sense  we  do  not  mean  there  should 
be  many  kinds  of  plant  material,  but  there  can  and  should  be  variety 
in  sky  line  or  contour,  in  texture  of  fohage,  color,  lawn  surface,  without 
marring  the  unity  of  the  place.  For  instance,  while  all  harsh  color 
contrasts  should  be  avoided,  a  dash  of  color  here  and  there  among  the 
green  can  be  nicely  blended  and  will  add  interest.  The  various 
characteristic  forms  of  growth,  such  as  horizontal  branches  against 
the  erect  or  vertical,  make  pleasant  breaks  and  give  character  as  well. 

Character.  This  quahty  consists  largely  of  being  individual  or 
"different"  from  other  places  similar  in  size  and  outHne.  It  is  not  easy 
to  define,  as  the  character  of  a  planting  is  generally  the  unconscious 
"touch"  of  the  maker.  Just  as  the  "stiffness"  or  "restfulness"  of  a 
room  is  decided  mainly  by  the  appearance  and  placement  of  furniture, 

3 


4  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

SO  character  of  the  garden  is  dependent  on  selection  and  arrangement 
of  material.  Each  tree  or  plant  should  be  carefully  selected  to  har- 
monize, and  so  placed  that  it  will  merge  into  the  general  planting 
scheme. 

Finish.  A  beautiful  garden  or  lawn  cannot  retain  a  permanent, 
finished  effect  unless  it  has  the  touch  of  one  who  is  really  a  lover  of 
plants;  one  who  lives  with  them,  watches  their  development,  and 
knows  their  names  as  well  as  their  appearance.  This  interest  and 
knowledge  is  quickly  acquired  by  working  among  your  plants  and 
trees,  and  personally  selecting  specimens.  Once  the  flame  of  enthusi- 
asm has  been  lighted,  you  will  find  yourself  observing  every  garden 
you  pass  and  taking  note  of  every  unusual  plant,  picturing  a  place  in 
your  garden  where  it  would  "just  fit."  When  you  have  this  interest, 
the  shrubbery  and  flower  beds  will  be  kept  edged,  the  lawn  kept  neatly 
cut,  the  hedges  evenly  cHpped,  the  weeds  kept  out,  and  in  general, 
cleanliness  and  tidiness  will  prevail.   This  is  the  "finish"  of  the  garden. 


STYLES  OF  LANDSCAPE  DEVELOPMENT 

THERE  are  three  main  types  or  styles  of  gardens  which  are 
classified  according  to  the  effects  they  respectively  create. 
These  are  the  Architectural,  the  Natural  and  the  Picturesque. 

Architectural,  which  is  distinctly  formal  (sometimes  in  a  clear- 
cut  geometrical  design)  is  really  a  prolongation  of  the  architectural 
lines  of  the  house.  In  such  a  garden  the  trees  are  planted  in  rows  or 
otherwise  symmetrically;  the  ground,  if  uneven,  is  terraced;  and 
garden  features  such  as  statues,  vases,  etc.,  are  in  evidence. 

Natural.  As  the  name  indicates  this  style  is  simply  copying 
Nature;  it  is  the  other  extreme  from  the  architectural  garden.  Plant 
material  is  used  in  masses  of  similar  kinds,  planted  irregularly  in 
borders  with  deep  bays  and  promontories,  so  that  the  inside  line  is 
sinuous  and  so  the  front  line  of  shrubs  merges  into  the  lawn  without 
an  abrupt  transition.  The  trees  also  should  be  planted  in  irregular 
groups,  not  haphazard,  but  where  they  are  needed,  so  that  the  whole 
effect  gives  the  impression  that  the  location  was  selected  because  of 
the  appropriateness  of  the  planting.  The  material  should  be  chosen 
especially  to  produce  this  effect,  and  all  that  would  tend  to  stiffen 
the  informaUty  by  reason  of  its  set  or  clearly  defined  outlines  should 
be  omitted. 

Picturesque.  This  style  can  be  typified  by  the  Japanese  garden. 
In  short,  it  is  appUed  to  create  effects  that  are  unusual  by  means  of 
vivid  contrast,  odd  shapes,  and  a  very  rugged  ground  surface. 

In  selecting  the  style  of  garden  to  be  made,  due  consideration 
must  be  given  not  only  to  the  house  architecture,  but  also  to  the  land 
surface.  For  instance,  where  there  are  abrupt  declivities  and  bold 
rocks  cropping  out,  dwarfed  natural  plant  life,  and  other  such  evi- 
dences of  the  unusual,  the  picturesque  style  can  best  be  employed. 
While  this  style  is  rather  uncommon  (because  the  necessary  setting 
is  rarely  met  with)  it  is  most  interesting  when  correctly  treated. 

The  architectural  style  is  suggested  when  the  house  is  well  balanced 
and  symmetrical.  On  larger  places,  the  immediate  surroundings  of 
such  a  house  can  be  treated  in  this  formal  way  and  the  outlying  areas 
made  informal  and  natural.    In  such  a  case,  however,  the  two  parts 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


r^: 

\ 

\ 

STYLES  OF  LANDSCAPE  DEVELOPMENT 


must  be  regarded  as  two  entirely  separate  units  and  therefore  be 
distinctly  divided. 

The  most  commonly  met  with  style  of  landscape  is  the  natural 
For  this  the  native  growth  on  similar  soil  and  in  similar  locations 
should  be  studied,  and  an  effort  made  to  reproduce  the  natural  effect. 
If  your  grounds  are  low  and  more  or  less  moist,  only  moisture-loving 
plants  should  be  used;  the  composition  of  the  soil  will  also  enter  into 
the  selection  of  the  plant  material.  In  arrangement  the  planting 
should  consist  of  masses  containing  a  number  of  plants  of  the  same 
kind  rather  than  a  few  each  of  many  different  kinds. 

It  is  taken  for  granted  that  all  exotic  and  grotesque  forms  of 
plants  should  be  omitted  from  the  natural  planting,  but  this  does  not 
mean  that  there  is  to  be  monotony.  There  is  ample  scope  for  such  a 
selection  that  the  natural  garden  will  be  full  of  interest  and  beauty 
every  day  in  the  year — just  as  Nature  is.  The  lines  of  planting  should 
be  in  long,  easy,  graceful  curves;  bays  should  be  left  in  the  shrubbery 
borders;  and  the  trees  in  groups  need  not  be  well-shaped.  Here  and 
there  a  slightly  crooked  stem  or  slant- 
ing effect  is  quite  in  keeping.  In  a  wild 
clump  of  Birch  who  ever  saw  each|tree]a 
perfect,  symmetrical  specimen  ? 


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Fig.  3.— The  subsoil^should  be  graded  just  as  carefully  and  almost  as  accurately  as  the 

finished  surface.    This  also  shows  how  a  line  of  drain  tile  can  be  laid  to  keep  water  from 

seeping  into  the  cellar.— See  pages  11   and  16 


LANDSCAPE  CONSTRUCTION 

LOCATING  THE  HOUSE 

THE  house  should  be  so  placed  on  the  property  as  to  give  the 
maximum  pleasure  and  comfort  to  the  owner  or  occupants. 
It  should  provide  for  good  views  and  scenes  from  the  interior 
as  well  as  convenient  access  and  good  circulation  to  all  parts  of  the 
property  (Fig.  2).  Furthermore,  the  practical  aspect  must  not  be 
overlooked — the  matter  of  drainage — so  the  house  should  be  set  on  a 
rise  where  the  natural  grade  drops  away  in  every  direction.  It  is  not 
necessary  that  the  highest  spot  be  selected,  but  it  is  most  important 
that  natural  drainage  be  assured. 

Unfortunately  the  modern  trend  is  to  build  all  small  houses  in 
straight  rows  facing  the  street.  While  it  is  desirable  that  the  best 
architectural  features  be  in  evidence,  it  is  not  necessary  that  the  house 
face  the  street  in  every  instance.  For  instance,  would  it  not  be  much 
more  enjoyable  if  the  service  or  kitchen  side  of  the  house  faced  the 
street,  so  as  to  make  the  rear  grounds  quite  private  and  the  service 
side  of  easier  access  to  the  street  ?  In  such  a  case  the  building  line 
can  be  maintained,  but  perhaps  more  attention  might  be  paid  to  the 
architectural  Unes  of  that  side  of  the  house.  In  the  northeastern 
states  the  best  exposure  is  facing  southeast,  but  if  there  happens  to 
be  an  unusually  good  distant  view  in  some  other  direction,  the  house 
should  be  built  so  that  the  hving  rooms  command  a  good  perspec- 
tive of  the  picture. 

However,  inasmuch  as  the  majority  of  small  houses  are  built  to 
face  the  street,  it  will,  perhaps,  be  best  to  take  up  the  subject  from  that 


Fig.  4.— When  the  house  sets  below  the  grade  of  the  street,  a  gracefully  graded  lawn— 
as  shown  here— adds  much  to  the  appearance  of  the  property.    In  all  cases  the  ground 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  house  should  slope  away  from  it 
8 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS  9 

standpoint.  It  is  preferable  to  set  the  house  a  reasonable  distance 
back  from  the  street,  allowing  in  front  a  good  sweep  of  lawn  that  can 
be  planted  artistically,  as  the  true  entrance  of  the  home  should  be. 
Furthermore,  it  is  most  advisable  that  the  kitchen  side  be  nearer  the 
property  Une  than  is  the  case  with  a  house  in  the  center  of  a  lot. 
This  allows  a  good  garden  and  private  lawn  area,  and  reduces  the 
service  yard  to  its  proper  proportions — which  is  the  minimum  area 
that  permits  of  maximum  service. 

Clearing  the  Land 

PRESUMING  the  property  in  question  to  be  covered  with  under- 
growth, brush,  and  trees  of  all  sizes,  it  will  have  to  be  cleared. 
After  locating  the  spot  for  the  house,  the  best  trees,  standing  in 
approximately  the  right  places  (see  page  55)  should  be  marked  that 
they  may  be  protected  against  damage.  The  same  may  be  done  with 
existing  shrubbery.  All  other  plant  material  should  then  be  cleared 
ofif,  not  by  simply  cutting  it  off,  but  by  taking  out  the  entire  root 
systems.  All  small  bushes  can  be  grubbed  out  by  hand,  but  if  the 
bushes  are  large  and  vigorous,  they  will  have  to  be  pulled  out  with 
horses  and  a  chain,  the  latter  to  be  wrapped  several  times  around  the 
bush.  Larger  trees  can  be  first  cut  down  to  four  or  five  feet,  then 
dug  around  and  pulled  out  with  a  block  and  tackle  fastened  to  a  large 
tree.    (But  be  sure  to  protect  this  anchor  tree  from  injury.) 

Old  stumps  that  cannot  be  taken  out  in  this  way  can  be  blasted 
with  dynamite.     When  using  dynamite  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the 


"^^'^^A 


^^//-^/^^^^^^ 


Fig.  5.— If  the  old  sub-grade  pitches  toward  the 
house,  water  will  usually  find  its  way  into  the  cellar 
unless  extra  precautions  are  taken.  Often  the  sub- 
grade  can  be  leveled  up  by  filling  in  with  stiff  clay 
or  other  impervious  material,  as  shown  here 


WJ'/?/Mmy^!>i>^ 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

r' 


Fig.  6.— If  the  house  is  located  above  the  street  level  and  the  grade  is  quite  steep,  the 
approach  and  lawn  may  be  treated  as  in  (A)  above  by  providing  a  series  of  terraces  and 
retaining  walls.    However,  in  general,  a  treatment  such  as  shown  in  (B)  is  much  to  be  pre- 
ferred 


charge  with  a  sheet  of  old  canvas  or  something  similar  to  keep  the 
particles  of  earth  and  wood  from  flying.  Before  placing  the  stick  of 
dynamite,  make  a  hole  with  a  crowbar  well  under  the  stump;  after 
inserting  the  fuse  and  cap  in  the  explosive,  insert  the  resulting  cartridge 
in  the  hole,  letting  it  lie  on  a  solid  bottom  if  possible  as  the  tendency 
is  to  shoot  downward.  Then  fill  the  hole  with  stiff  clay,  tamping  it  in 
firmly  with  a  wooden  stick — and  it  is  ready  for  firing.  The  size  of  the 
charge  needed  depends  upon  the  size  and  rigidity  of  the  stump  and 
must  be  learned  through  experience,  but  one  stick  will  do  wonders. 
In  crowded  places  where 

it  is  not  permissible  to  »  t^  c!  poT-<^k 

blast,  a  stump  will  have 
to  be  dug  out  by  hand. 
It  is  often  possible  to 
take  it  out  in  sections,  by 
splitting  it  with  wedges 
after  the  roots  have  been 
cut  and  loosened. 


slopal-3'-j 


Fig.  7.— When  the  house  sets  well  back  from  the  street,  a  terrace  can  often  be  used  to  good 
advantage.     But  it  must  be  well  proportioned  to  produce  a  favorable  effect.    The  dis- 
tance A-B  in  the  two  smaller  sketches  should  always  be  as  great  as  or  greater  than  the 
distance  A-C,  as  illustrated  in  the  larger  sketch  at  the  bottom 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS 


Grading 


THE  next  step  is  to  study  and  work  out  on  paper  the  changes  in 
grades,  if  any  are  necessary,  and  to  designate  the  planting  areas, 
walks,  drives,  house  outline,  division  of  property,  lines  of  tile  that  may 
be  necessary  for  drainage,  and  all  such  features,  as  well  as  existing 
trees,  etc.  After  the  problems  are  worked  out  satisfactorily  on  paper, 
the  actual  work  can  be  done  by  following  the  plan.  Terracing  and 
the  building  of  permanent  features  such  as  retaining  walls,  pools,  and 
garden  steps  should  be  done  at  this  time.  Their  actual  construction 
will  be  described  later. 

Where  there  is  any  cut  or  fill  to  be  made  the  topsoil  should  first 
be  stripped  off  and  piled  in  a  convenient  place.  If  it  is  found  that 
under-draining  is  necessary,  the  tile  can  be  laid  at  this  time.  (For 
methods  of  drainage  see  under  lawn  making,  page  15).  The  stripping 
can  be  done  with  a  scoop  on  larger  places,  or  with  a  wheelbarrow, 
where  but  little  is  necessary.  We  are  now  deaUng  with  the  subsoil 
which  must  be  graded  just  as  carefully  as  the  finished  surface  (Fig.  3). 
The  purpose  of  grading  is  to  insure  proper  drainage,  improve  the 
contour  of  the  land  surface,  and  give  a  good  setting  to  the  house. 
If  the  house  is  set  lower  than  the  street  level,  the  drop  from  the  street 
might  be  shghtly  emphasized  for  a  distance  and  then  the  ground 


Fig.  8.— Simplifying  the  grading  of  the  average  suburban  lot  in  which  the  ground  slopes 

from  the  house  down  to  the  sidewalk.    A  combination  of  gentle  grades  is  easier  to  care  for 

and  looks  better  than  abrupt  changes  crowded  into  a  small  space  (see  page  13) 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


-  Fi^s  t-Ke.  espp<2xei-rc^T\ce  of 


K 


(Z.f^pG'Cl    dp      J<^\X/T\ 


iT 


A 


<STN^  poTTpose    TooTxeiTroNj!/  t-o  • 
p\aT\i-  «iiT\dl  :iioo  dry. 


Fig.  9a. — Possible  treatments  of  a  slight  rise  in  a  narrow  suburban  front  lawn.     See 
facing  page 


graded  up  toward  the  house.  In  this  way  good  drainage  is  provided 
and  the  house  is  made  to  set  apparently  higher,  with  a  tastefully 
graded  front  lawn  (Fig.  4).  Should  the  natural  grade  pitch  right 
down  to  the  house,  it  is  advisable  to  firmly  pack  stiff  clay  against  the 
foundation  walls  so  that  water  will  not  He  against  them  and  seep  into 
the  cellar  (Fig.  5). 

InV  case  where  the  house  site  is  considerably  above  the  street  level, 
the  area  between  can  be  either  terraced  or  sloped  gradually  (Fig.  6). 
The  terrace  is  recommended  when  the  ground  is  more  or  less  rugged, 
with^wide  variation  in  levels,  as  a  level  space  must  be  provided  for 
the  house.  Where  this  is  done,  the  terraces  should  be  as  wide  as  is 
feasible — not  less  than  ten  or  twelve  feet — not  only  for  the  sake  of 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— GRADING 


This/^eLKod   te-rvds  io    fore,- 


^  I 


c 


•CorrecL  nrNeLKod 


Fig.  9b. — (A),  (B)  and  (C)  are  all  less  desirable  than  (D).    See  facing  page 


beauty  but  also  for  utility,  as  walking  on  a  wide  terrace  gives  a  sense 
of  security.  The  distance  from  the  bottom  of  the  terrace  or  retaining 
wall  to  the  edge  of  the  grounds  should,  however,  be  considerably 
greater  than  the  width  of  the  terrace  itself  (Fig.  7). 

Generally  speaking,  a  gently  rolling  surface  is  much  more  desirable 
and  easier  to  maintain  than  a  terraced  area,  especially  if  the  place  is 
at  all  large.  The  average  high  city  lot  can  be  graded  so  that  the 
surface  slopes  toward  the  street  at  an  inclination  of  about  one  inch 
to  one  foot,  then  at  the  sidewalk  this  slope  can  be  increased,  making 
the  two  grades  merge.  In  this  way  the  familiar  difl&culty  of  cutting 
the  grass  on  the  terrace  is  overcome  or  rather  eliminated,  and  the 
appearance  is  decidedly  better  (Fig,  8A).  If  the  house  is  only  about 
three  feet  or  less  above  the  street  level,  the  best  treatment  is  to  make 
a  gradual  slope  from  the  sidewalk  up  to  the  house  level.  In  Fig.  9, 
(A),  (B)  and  (C)  illustrate  common  methods  of  grading  the  front,  all 
of  which  are  condemned  for  various  reasons;  (D)  is  decidedly  better. 


14 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


All  rubbish  and  large 
stones  should  be  taken  away, 
then,  when  the  subsoil  is 
graded,  the  topsoil  can  be 
spread.  It  is  a  good  idea 
to  excavate  a  little  (about 
eighteen  inches)  in  the  plant- 
ing areas  and  fill  in  with 
good  soil.  The  matter  of 
fertilizing  and  improving 
soils  is  discussed  under  "Lawn 
Making"  (page  18).  Some- 
times when  the  revised  grade 
is  considerably  above  the 
old  surface,  it  is  desirable 
to  save  an  old  tree,  too  large 
for  transplanting.  This  can 
be  accomphshed  by  building 
a  "well"  of  bricks  or  large 
stones  around  the  base  to 
allow  for  circulation  of  air 
(Fig.  11).  When  the  new 
grade  is  below  the  old,  gently 
mound  up  the  soil  above  the 
roots  of  the  tree  for  a  good  distance  from  the  trunk  (Fig.  10). 


Fig.  10.— If,  in  grading,  the  general  level  is 
lowered  where  valuable  trees  stand,  gentle 
mounds  should  be  left  around  and  over  the 
roots  of  such  specimens  as  shown  here  in 
cross  section 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— THE  LAWN  15 

MAKING  THE  LAWN 

THE  lawn  or  greensward  is  the  ground  or  "canvas"  upon  which 
the  picture  is  to  be  produced.  It  is,  in  effect,  the  carpet  of  the 
outdoor  living  room,  and  it  is  therefore  of  prime  importance  that  it 
should  be  as  perfect  as  possible.  A  poor  greensward  will  mar  an 
otherwise  good  picture;  and  on  the  other  hand,  a  good  sweep  of  green- 
sward wiU  detract  attention  from  a  mediocre  planting.  The  care  in 
making  and  maintaining  the  lawn  should  therefore  be  in  keeping  with 
its  importance. 

DRAINAGE 

On  the  average  small  property  underdraining  is  rarely  necessary, 
but  all  low-lying  places  should  assuredly  be  properly  tiled.  First  of 
all,  a  good  outlet  must  be  located,  such  as  a  ditch  or  creek,  or  even  the 
sewer.  The  mouth  of  the  drain — that  is,  the  end  tile — should  be  placed 
about  two  feet  above  the  mean  water  level  in  the  outlet  (Fig.  12). 
From  this  point  the  drainage  system  should  be  laid  up  to  the  head  or 
highest  point  touched  by  the  drain.  Three-inch  tile  is  sufficiently 
large  for  almost  any  work,  and  it  should  be  laid  about  three  to  three 
and  one-half  feet  deep,  following  the  lowest  land.  Generally  one 
central  line  with  laterals  is  all  that  is  necessary,  but  where  an  extensive 
operation  is  needed  the  main  lines  are  placed  as  near  together  or  as 
far  apart  as  the  conditions  warrant. 


3a-r-^ac:.<2- 


Fig.  1 1.— If  the  grade  must  be  raised  about  a  valuable  tree  that  it  is  desired  to  save,  make 
a  "well"  of  bricks  or  large  stones  around  the  trunk  to  prevent  smothering  it 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


T/7/yj}ijyjWntirmT7^  a--^^^  </3  t.s-  p«,v  loo* 


Fig.  12.— A  good  outlet  should  be  provided  for  every  main  drainage  line.  The  tile  should 
follow  the  low  ground,  about  three  feet  below  the  surface,  and  the  end  should  open  into 
a  ditch  or  sewer  two  feet  above  the  mean  water  level  to  prevent  backing  up  and  flooding 


The  narrow  ditch  is  dug  with  the  bottom  even  so  that  the  tiles 
can  be  laid  securely.  They  must  be  laid  or  fitted  tightly  together, 
end  to  end,  but  not  cemented  or  joined  in  any  way.  The  result  desired 
is  that  water  will  filter  in  through  the  joints,  although  soil  cannot 
enter  to  clog  the  drain.  A  fall  of  approximately  six  inches  in  100  feet 
will  carry  off  all  surplus  water,  and  even  less  than  this  will  serve  the 
purpose,  providing  the  drain  is  laid  correctly.    Laying  a  drain  with 

only  a  very  slight 
inclination  is  a  task 
for  a  skilled  engineer 
and  is  best  left  to 
such  as  are  capable 
and  experienced  in 
these  matters. 

A  line  of  tile  laid 
at  the  bottom  of 
the  cellar  foundation 
will  carry  oflf  water 
that  might  otherwise 
seep  through  the 
walls(Fig.3).Where 
there  is  only  a  small 
amount  of  surface 
water  to  take  care 
of,  a  dry  well  can  be 
easily  constructed, 
sufficiently  large  to 
handle  the  surplus. 
Figures  13   and   14 


Fig.  13. — A  simple  but  effective  type  of  dry  well  for  use 

in  connection  with  walks,  drives  and  paved  areas.    The 

dimensions  given  are  satisfactory  where  a  limited  amount 

of  water  is  to  be  taken  care  of 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— THE  LAWN 


17 


illustrate  suitable  methods  more  clearly  than  word  descriptions. 
The  style  shown  in  Fig.  13  is  effective  on  walks,  drives,  and  paved 
areas,  while  that  shown  in  Fig.  14  can  be  used  on  the  lawn. 


SOIL   PREPARATION 

The  method  followed  in  preparing  the  soil  depends  upon  the 
richness  of  the  natural  deposit,  but  as  most  soils  can  be  improved,  the 
following  directions  can  be  applied  in  practically  every  case. 

It  can  be  stated  generally  that  all  heavy  clay  soils  are  benefited  by 
working  in  an  inch  or  more  of  sand  or  road  grit;  for  very  sandy  soils 
the  same  quantity  of  clay  or  loamy  clay  should  be  applied.  All  drain- 
age and  grading  being  finished  and  the  topsoil  being  in  place,  spread  a 
heavy  layer  (about  four  or  five  inches)  of  rotten  manure  over  the 
ground.  This  will  be  approximately  one-half  ton  to  one  thousand 
square  feet,  or  twenty  tons  to  an  acre.  Plow  or  dig  this  under  deeply, 
and  then  scatter  slaked  Ume,  using  100  pounds  to  1000  square  feet, 
which  is  about  two  tons  to  an  acre.  If  crushed  limestone  is 
used,  double  the 
quantity  in  order  to 
make  the  treatment 
equally  effective.  The 
lime  should  be  raked 
or  harrowed  in  thor- 
oughly so  that  it  is 
scarcely  visible.  Let 
the  land  settle  for  ten 
to  fourteen  days, 
when  it  should  be 
raked  repeatedly  until 
the  surface  is  friable 
and  free  from  lumps 
or  stones.  This  thor- 
ough raking  is  most 
important  in  the  for- 
mation of  good  turf, 

and    represents     time       ^\S-  14. -Type  of  dry  well  that  can  be  constructed  in 
^  a  lawn  to  take  care  or  surplus  surrace  water,  to  prevent 

and  effort  well  spent.  washing  and  marshy  spots,  etc. 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


SOIL  PREPARATION  ON  A  LARGE  AREA 

Where  an  extensive  lawn  is  to  be  made  and  where  durability 
is  a  prime  requisite,  more  time  must  be  allowed  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  soil,  and  a  more  complete  treatment  given,  the  essentials 
of  which  are  here  outUned.  After  plowing  under  the  manure, 
and  harrowing  in  the  lime  as  before  (which  in  this  case  should 
be  done  in  August)  the  area  should  be  sown  with  Rye,  using 
one  and  one-half  bushels  to  an  acre,  with  twenty  pounds  of 
Hairy  Vetch  added  for  Winter'  cover.  In  the  Spring,  just  as 
soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  work,  plow  under  the 
Rye  and  Vetch  and  apply  a  good  fertilizer  at  the  rate  of  about 
eight  hundred  pounds  to  an  acre.  The  following  mixture  contains 
all  the  desirable  properties: 

300  lbs.  acid  phosphate. 
200  lbs.  cottonseed  meal. 
100  lbs.  bonemeal. 

50  lbs.  nitrate  of  soda. 

50  lbs.  kainite. 

Harrow  this  mbcture  in 
thoroughly,  then  sow 
Soy  Beans  or  Cow  Peas 
at  the  rate  of  two  bush- 
els to  one  acre.  This 
crop  will  be  in  bloom 
during  July,  when  it 
should  be  turned  under. 
Then  cultivate  the 
ground  lightly  for  a 
month  or  more.  By  this 
time  the  soil  is  settled, 
and  should  then  be 
raked  repeatedly,  as 
recommended  previously, 
preparatory  to  sowing 
the  lawn  grass  seed. 

The    best    time    for 
sowing  is  early  May  or 


Fig.  15.— Groups  of  trees  or  shrubs,  as  (A)  and  (B), 

should  be  provided  as  "excuses"  for  curves  in  a  drive 

that  is  deliberately  diverted  from  a  straight  line 

(See  page  25) 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— THE  LAWN  19 

late  August.  The  disadvantage  of  the  Autumn  sowing  is  the 
possibility  of  thunder  showers  washing  the  seed  into  small  depres- 
sions, but  if  this  can  be  overcome  the  Autumn  is  really  to  be 
preferred.  The  seed  germinates  quickly,  becomes  well  established 
before  frost,  and  is  quite  tough  enough  to  withstand  the  heat  of 
the  following  Summer.  If  sowing  is  done  in  Spring,  it  is  advisable 
to  include  a  quick  growing  grass  (Italian  Rye)  to  shade  the  other 
while  young  and  tender.  Another  method  is  to  cover  the  newly 
seeded  lawn  with  light  burlap  or  cheesecloth. 

SEEDING 

Select  a  still,  preferably  dull  day  for  seeding.  Mark  the  area  to 
be  seeded  in  strips  of  a  width  that  can  be  reached  with  a  sweep  of  the 
arm.  Go  over  the  ground  twice,  seeding  in  opposite  directions,  so  as 
to  insure  a  perfectly  even  stand.  Don't  be  afraid  of  sowing  thickly — 
five  pounds  to  one  thousand  square  feet,  or  about  six  bushels  or  more 
to  an  acre  is  not  too  much.  Remember  it  is  much  more  difficult  to 
patch  up  a  spotty  lawn  than  it  is  to  secure  a  good  stand  at  first. 
In  shady  places  where  a  different  mixture  of  seed  is  used  this  quantity 
can  be  increased  slightly. 

Then  rake  the  seed  in  lightly  and  go  over  the  lawn  with  a  light 
roller.    It  is  then  most  important  that  the  soil  be  kept  moist  to  induce 


Fig.  16— Where  traffic  is  practically  all  in  one  direction,  a  branching  road,  drive  or  walk 
should  join  the  main  highway  at  a  tangent  so  as  to  create  a  natural,  easy  curve 


20 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  17.— A  formal  entrance  to  an  estate  in  which  imposing  pillars,  sections  of  curved 

fence  or  wall  and  a  lodge  contribute  to  the  effect.    The  setting  in  of  the  gateway  makes 

the  entrance  safer  than  if  it  were  flush  with  the  roadway 


germination.  It  is  best  to  water  slowly,  with  a  fine  spray  and  for  a 
long  time  so  that  the  soil  is  moistened  to  a  depth  of  five  or  six  inches. 
A  top  dressing  of  really  old,  well  rotted  cow  manure  is  very  beneficial 
in  keeping  the  surface  moist;  it  prevents  "baking"  besides  adding 
nourishment. 

LAWN    GRASS   SEED 

After  considerable  experimental  work  it  has  been  proved  con- 
clusively that  Kentucky  Blue  Grass  is  the  best  turf  forming  grass  for 
wear  and  general  use.  This,  however,  takes  some  time  to  become 
firmly  established  (until  the  second  season)  and  therefore  a  mixture 
containing  quicker  growing  kinds  of  grass  seed  is  advised.  While 
there  are  numerous  mixtures  offered,  the  bulk  of  every  one  should  be 
Kentucky  Blue  Grass,  and  the  following  has  been  used  with  good 
success: 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass 5  parts  by  weight 

Recleaned   Red-Top 2  parts  by  weight 

Rhode  Island  Bent 2  parts  by  weight 

To  this  mixture  can  be  added  some  White  Clover,  and  sometimes 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— THE  LAWN 


one  part  of  Italian  Rye 
grass  is  included,  as  it 
germinates  and  grows 
quickly,  shading  the 
ground  while  the  other 
seed  is  growing.  The 
best  seed  is  most  eco- 
nomical, and  it  should 
be  bought  by  weight 
rather  than  bulk.  Good 
seed  weighs  from  twenty- 
two  to  twenty-five 
pounds  to  the  bushel. 

FOR   SHADY   PLACES 

The  following  mix- 
ture of  grasses,  used  in 
equal  proportions  (by 
weight)  will  be  found 
very  good  for  shady  sit- 
uations. Alternative 
kinds  are  given,  but  the 
first  named  should  be 
used  whenever  it  can  be 
secured: 

Various-leaved  Fescue,  or  Red  Fescue 

Creeping  Bent,  or  Rhode  Island  Bent 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass 

If  the  true  Wood  Meadow  grass  {Poa  nemoralis)  can  be  obtained 
it  can  be  substituted  for  both  the  Bent  and  Fescue  grasses.  In  a  very 
densely  shaded  place  it  is  sometimes  impossible  to  get  a  good  stand 
of  any  permanent  grasses.  In  such  a  case  Italian  Rye  grass  can  be 
sown  each  Spring  and  a  new  and  practical  lawn  made  each  year. 
This  repetition  is  necessary  as  the  Italian  Rye  grass  is  an  annual. 


Fig.   18.— A  simple  but  attractive  and  satisfactory  ar- 
rangement of  the  walk  and  its  border  planting  when  the 
house  is  located  at  one  side  of  the  property 


As  soon  as  the  grass  is  well  started  the  area  should  be  rolled  lightly 
to  firm  the  soil  about  the  roots.  Allow  the  grass  to  grow  to  about 
three  inches  high,  then  cut  with  a  freshly  sharpened  lawn  mower, 
setting  the  blade  high.    The  clippings  may  be  left  on  the  lawn.  There- 


22 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


after,  cut  as  often  as 
necessary,  lowering  the 
blade  as  the  lawn  be- 
comes established. 

FERTILIZER  AND 
WINTER  COVER 


Fig.  19.— If  the  house  is  not  too  far  from  the  street,  the 

walk  and  drive  can  be  kept  quite  separate  but  parallel, 

as  shown  here 


If  it  is  possible  to 
secure  really  well  rot- 
ted, long  manure, 
spread  a  half-inch  layer 
over  the  lawn  in  late 
Fall  or  early  Winter, 
after  the  ground  is 
frozen.  This  can  be 
raked  off  in  Spring  and 
the  lawn  rolled.  As  a 
top  dressing,  sheep 
manure  is  good,  or 
nitrate  of  soda  mixed 
with  an  equal  amount 
of  acid  phosphate  and 
one-fourth  that  amount 
of  kainit.  This  should 
be  applied  in  early 
Spring  before  growth 
commences,  at  the  rate 
of  about  eight  pounds 
to  one  thousand  square 
feet. 


TO   ELIMINATE   WEEDS   FROM  A  LAWN 

Experiments  recently  terminated  have  proved  that  by  creating 
an  acid  soil  all  weeds  will  be  caused  gradually  to  disappear,  and  certain 
lawn  grasses  caused  to  thrive.  The  best  of  these  grasses  are  Creeping 
Bent,  Rhode  Island  Bent,  Red  Top  and  Red  Fescue.  They  can  be 
used  at  the  same  rate  as  other  seed  mentioned,  namely,  about  five 
pounds  to  one  thousand  square  feet.  To  bring  about  the  desired  con- 
dition of  the  soil  when  making  a  new  lawn,  omit  the  lime  and,  in  fact, 
any  material  or  fertilizer  that  may  tend  to  sweeten  (or  overcome  the 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— THE  LAWN 


acidity  of)  the  soil.  In  the  place  of  such  fertilizer  use  the  following 
mixture  at  the  rate  of  about  800  pounds  to  one  acre,  which  is  ap- 
proximately twenty  pounds  to  one  thousand  square  feet: 

Acid  phosphate 8  parts  by  weight 

Sulphate  of  ammonia 5  parts  by  weight 

Muriate  of  potash 5  parts  by  weight 

Thoroughly  mix  these  in  the  proportions  named  and  scatter 
broadcast  in  very 
early  Spring,  prefer- 
ably in  dry  weather. 
Spread  evenly  and 
then  soak  thor- 
oughly. 

In  treating  estab- 
lished lawns,  the 
grass  seed  recom- 
mended should  be 
sown  and  raked  in  a 
few  days  after  ap- 
plying the  fertilizer, 
using  a  larger  quan- 
tity of  seed  than 
otherwise  suggested. 
In  order  to  main- 
tain the  acid  condi- 
tion of  the  soil,  the 
same  fertilizer  must 
be  applied  each 
Spring,  in  decreasing 
amounts  until  the 
weeds  disappear  en- 
tirely. For  this  in- 
formation the  writer 
is  indebted  to  the 
Agricultural  Experi- 
ment Station  of  the 
Rhode  Island  State  Fig.  20.— Sometimes  the  drive  can  best  serve  also  as  a 
College  at  Kingston,  ^^"^  ^'^f  the  street  to  the  house.  Here  it  is  well 
o  fo  '       screened  from  the  private  area  of  the  garden  at  the  rear 

R.  I.  of  the  house 


y .  e 


24 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


TO  RENOVATE   AN    OLD   LAWN 

It  is  not  an  easy  matter  to  "patch  up"  an  old,  spotted  lawn.  It  is 
most  improbable  that  the  same  mixture  of  seed  will  be  used  as  was 
sown  originally,  and  hence  the  texture  of  the  turf  will  differ.  How- 
ever, where  it  is  not  feasible  to  dig  and  remake  the  lawn,  the  bad 
spots  can  be  improved.  Fork  over  these  places  to  a  depth  of  five  or 
six  inches  or  deeper,  taking  out  all  stones  and  rubbish  that  may  be 
found.  Add  some  good,  well  rotted  manure,  scatter  the  proper  pro- 
portion of  lime  (as  recommended  in  "Soil  Preparation,"  page  17)  and 
rake  thoroughly.  The  seed  can  then  be  sown  rather  more  thickly  than 
suggested  before  and  the  patch  watered,  rolled,  and  shaded  from  the  sun. 
Another  easier  method  of  renovating  an  old  lawn  would  be  to  rake  over 
the  impoverished  places  with  a  sharp,  steel  tooth  rake.  This  will  not 
injure  the  yoimg  grass  that  may  be  there,  but  on  the  other  hand,  will 
rake  out  old  dead  material.      Seed  can  then  be  scattered  evenly  and 

thickly  over  these 
areas,  and  thorough- 
ly roUed  with  a  fairly 
heavy  roller.  If  this 
work  is  done  in  the 
Spring  and  the  lawn 
is,  therefore,  Hkely 
to  be  subjected  to 
the  hot  suns,  it 
would  be  well  to 
cover  the  newly 
seeded  areas  with 
cheesecloth,  burlap, 
or  some  other  mate- 
rial to  break  the 
sun's  rays.  They 
must,  of  course,  be 
kept  moist. 

Fig.  21— Where  the  shape 
of  the  lot  and  the  location 
and  arrangement  of  the 
house  combine  to  make 
a  long,  straight  path  un- 
avoidable, the  latter  can 
be  bordered  by  specimen 
plants,  such  as  clipped 
Privet  bushes,  low  ever- 
greens, etc. 


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CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS 


DRIVES  AND  WALKS 

THE  arrangement  of  walks  and  drives  is  one  of  the  most  important 
things  to  be  considered  when  designing  the  layout  of  grounds 
about  a  home.  Of  course  there  is  not  a  great  deal  of  latitude  here 
when  dealing  with  the  small  city  lot.  In  this  case  the  drive  is  usually 
straight,  running  back  along  the  side  of  the  property  to  the  garage 
(Fig.  19).  One  main  principle  must  be  adhered  to,  however,  and  that 
is  that  both  drives  and  walks  must  be  as  direct  as  possible.  On  the 
large  property,  the  drive  may  approach  the  house  in  easy,  graceful 
curves  so  that  a  glimpse  of  the  garden  or  some  feature  of  it  may  be 
seen  from  certain  points 
along  the  approach.  It 
may  be  said  here  that 
when  curves  are  "just 
made"  in  the  drive 
they  should  subse- 
quently be  planted  in 
such  a  manner  as  to 
furnish  an  excuse  for 
the  turn.  For  this  pur- 
pose a  clump  of  shrub- 
bery or  a  group  of  trees 

is  placed  ab  the  inside 

of  the  curve  (Fig.  15). 

In   long,    straight   ap- 
proaches avoid  the  use 

of    circles,    etc.     Such 

approaches    may    be 

planted  out  in  straight 

lines  and  at  even  in- 
tervals.    On  the  usual 

fifty-foot   city  lot  the 

methods  of  running  the 

walk  to  the  house  are 

limited.    It  should  not 

cut  across  the  center  of 

the  yard  as  this  cuts  up 

the  lawn  and  makes  it 

appear   really    smaller 

than  it  is  and  diflficult 


Fig.  22. -Or 
as  a  border 


if  preferred,  a  long,  straight  path  may  have 
t  low,  closely  clipped  hedge.    Boxwood  is 
especially  good  where  it  is  hardy 


26 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


to  treat.  It  is  best  in 
such  cases  to  either  run 
the  walk  out  to  the  side 
and  connect  with  the 
drive,  or  keep  it  to  the 
edge  of  the  property 
running  it  directly  to 
the  sidewalk  (Figs.  18, 
20,  23  and  25). 

THE   ENTRANCE 

The  entrance  is 
really  the  first  matter 
that  should  claim  our 
attention,  as  first  im- 
pressions of  a  place  will 
probably  be  based  on  it. 
The  walk  and  drive 
(and  especially  the  lat- 
ter) should  enter  the 
property  at  approxi- 
mately right  angles,  so 
that  travel  in  each  di- 
rection is  equally  con- 
venient.  However, 
when  the  traffic  is 
practically  all  to  and 
from  one  direction  the 
driveway  can  be  made 
to  join  the  highway 
in  a  natural,  easy  curve 
— on  a  tangent,  so  that  it  seems  almost  a  branch  of  the  road  (Fig. 
16).  It  is  taken  for  granted  that  such  an  entrance  would  be  placed 
on  that  side  of  the  property  from  which  the  trafi&c  comes.  The 
entrance  may  be  either  formal  and  imposing  (Fig.  17)  with  piers, 
iron  gates,  etc.,  or  quite  informal — just  an  opening  in  the  planting, 
with  or  without  a  small  garden  gate.  When  the  house  is  located  on 
a  hill  and  has  considerable  property  in  front,  the  drive  and  walk 
should  follow  the  easiest  contour  as  nearly  as  possible. 

On  a  large  city  or  suburban  property  where  the  house  is  centrally 


Fig.  23.— Another  case  in  which  the  best  solution  of 
the  approach  problem  seems  to  be  the  connection  of 
drive  and  path.  (Compare  Fig.  20).  Here  the  drive 
is  apparently  a  couple  of  steps  below  the  level  of  the  lawn 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


27 


located  on  the  lot,  a  pleasing  drive  or  walk  may  be  made  by  the  use  of 
the  semi-circular  effect  shown  in  Fig.  26.  If  only  the  drive  is  located 
in  this  manner  it  is  poor  design  to  run  a  wide  walk  down  through  the 
center  thus  bisecting  the  semi-circular  area.  If  a  walk  must  be  made 
here  a  narrow  stepping-stone  walk  with  the  grass  between  the  stones 
is  much  more  pleasing  and  not  nearly  so  conspicuous  (Fig.  27). 

If  the  main  entrance  of  the  house  is  at  the  front,  the  drive  or 
walk  should  parallel  the  house  on  that  side.  If  at  the  side,  the  walk  or 
drive  should  run  close  enough  to  the  house  to  permit  easy  access  to 
and  from  the  door.  Enough  room  should  be  left  between  the  drive 
and  property  line  to  allow  of  some  ornamental  planting.  If  a  service 
walk  or  drive  is  necessary  it  should  either  be  made  entirely  for  that 
purpose  and  removed  from  the  main  part  of  the  house  or  it  should 
branch  off  the  main  walk  or  drive  as  shown  in  Fig.  28,  in  which 
case  it  should  be  made  smaller.  The  service  drive  should  be  so  placed 
that  living  commodities,  such  as  food,  coal,  etc.,  can  be  delivered 
easily,  and,  if  possible,  so  that  it  does  not  touch  the  private  or  garden 
area  of  the  grounds.  Unless  the  house  is  set  back  at  least  seven ty-*five 
feet  from  the  property  front  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to  make  a  turn- 
around in  front,  as  the 
average  automobile 
requires  at  least  sixty- 
five  feet  in  which  to 
turn.  However,  if 
there  is  ample  room 
for  such  a  turn  it 
should  be  placed  on 
the  axis  of  the  house 
(Figs.  29  and  30).  If 
a  hedge  borders  a  drive 
or  walk  it  should  be 
planted  at  least  eight- 
een inches  from  the 
edge;  large  shrubs 
should  be  at  least  three 
feet  back. 

On  the  city  lot,  the 
path    leading    to    the 

rpnr     hniiQP     pnfranrp       "^'S-  24.— Where  the  path,  or  a  branch  of  it,  is  carried 

rear  n  o  u  s  e  entrance  ^^^^^^  ^j^^  ^^^^^^  ,^^^^  ^^^  j^^^^^^j^  -^  ^„j  ^1^^  1,^^!,^^^^^ 
should    be    so   planned  for  some  foundation  planting,  if  possible 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


as  to  leave  a  planting  strip  between  it  and  the  house  of  not  less 
than  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet  (Fig.  24).    If  space  does  not  permit 
this,  it  is  better  to  have  no  planting  strip  at  all,  but  to  join  the  walk 
to  the  foundation  wall,  as  a  very  narrow 
strip  is  unsatisfactory  to  treat   and  hard 
to  keep  neat.    On  a  fiat  property  of  some 
size  where  the  house  is  set  well  back  from 
the    street,  a  straight  walk  direct  to  the 
front  entrance  looks  well,  especially  if  em- 
phasized   with   appropriate  planting.     On 
such  a  straight  walk  avoid  all  obstructions 
that  would  cause  a  detour  (Figs.  21  and  22). 
Fig.    31    illustrates    the   possibility  of 
uniting  the  drives  of  two  adjoining  proper- 
ties, thus  saving  space  and    construction 
cost.      A    complete    turn-around    at    the 
garage  should  be  at  least  seventy-five  feet 
in  diameter.    On  many 
small  properties  which 
will    not   permit  of   a 
turn-around,  a  backing 
space   is   provided    as 
shown  in  Figs.  19,  20 
and  25.     Such  spaces 
are  too  often  cramped, 
and  as  a  consequence 
the   lawn   is    cut  and 
marred  by  wheels  run 
ning  off  the  drive.     If 
the   garage  sets  quite 
close  to  the  street  it  is 
best  to  simply  back  the 
car  out. 

DRIVE   TURNS 

A  turn  in  the  drive 

u-    tc    n  •      u-  L  .L  .     ■        J     is  really  necessary  only 

rig.  25.— One  way  m  which  the  necessary  turning  and  -'                    •'          -' 

backing  space  can  be  provided  in  the  drive  in  conjunc-  On  large  places  and,  as 

tion  with  the  garage,  thereby  saving  considerable  space.  jj.      taJj^gg     UP     a     wide 

The  dotted  lines  suggest  another  possible  treatment  of  .       . 

the  house  entrance  and  path  space,    it    IS    generally 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


29 


C 


7    e 


Fig.  26— An  attractive  driveway  arrangement  where  a  house  is  centrally  located  on  a  large 
city  or  suburban  lot 


located  in  the  rear  of  the  house,  unless  formally  treated  as  the  front 
or  main  driveway.  For  an  easy  turn  with  a  large  car  or  truck,  a 
diameter  of  at  least  seventy  feet  is  necessary,  measuring  from  center 
to  center  of  the  drive.  In  most  instances  the  drive  should  be 
straight  at  that  section  which  runs  by  the  side  or  front  of  the  house. 
This  suggests  that  a  turn  of  roughly  elliptical  shape  is  more  practical 
than  a  perfect  circle.  Where  there  are  two  entrances  the  whole  main 
drive  can  be  made  a  half  circle,  or  a  section  of  a  circle  (Figs.  26 
and  27).  Sometimes  space  can  be  saved  by  making  a  party  drive 
and  turn;  this  plan  is  especially  useful  where  space  is  limited  (Fig.  31). 


KINDS    OF   WALKS   AND   DRIVES 


Cement  (Fig.  32 A).     While  rather  severe  in  outUne  and  cold  in 
appearance,  cement  is  perhaps  the  most  practical  material  for  the 


30  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


"7     ^ 


J     ^ 


Fig.  27— Where  a  straight  path  must  cross  the  grass  area  enclosed  by   a  semi-circular 

driveway  entrance,  a  narrow  stepping-stone  walk  is  more  pleasing  and  less  conspicuous 

than  a  more  formal  pathway 


%S^ 


Fig,  28— When  the  service  drive  cannot  be  entirely  separated  from  the  main  entrance 
driveway,  it  should  be  laid  out  as  a  smaller,  subordinate,  inconspicuous  branch  of  it 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


31 


construction  of  walks  and  drives,  providing  they  are  not  extensive. 
There  is  now  obtainable  a  stain  that  can  be  used  to  soften  the  glare. 

Crushed  stone  (Fig.  32B).  Where  there  is  a  considerable  length 
of  driveway,  this  is  most  serviceable  and  fairly  easy  of  upkeep.  The 
macadam  road  is  durable  and  good  in  color,  blending  in  with  the 
landscape.  It  is  best  to  secure  the  bluish  material  that  is  rather  sharp. 
Walks  made  in  this  way  are  adaptable  to  either  formal  or  informal 
designs. 

Gravel  (Fig.  32  C)  is  a  good  material  to  use.  In  the  confines  of 
the  garden  proper  gravel  is,  perhaps,  used  more  successfully  than 
any  other  material.  It  is  not,  however,  recommended  for  heavily 
used  driveways,  or  on  inclines. 

Cinders.    The  cinder  or  ash  path  is  more  or  less  common  and 
provides  a  fairly  good  surface  if  well  tamped  down. 
It  is  not  a  good  material  for  a  much  used  road 
except  when  used  as  a  sub-grade  for  stone  or  gravel.  /     <V 


Fig.  29.— Where  the  lot  is  limited  in  size,  or  where  large  trees  interfere,  the  turn-around 

can  be  made  oval  in  form.    However,  60  feet  is  the  minimum  diameter  of  such  a  turn; 

in  fact,  most  automobiles  require  75  feet  in  which  to  turn 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  30.— The  turn-around  in  the  drive  should  be  placed 
on  an  axis  (the  main  one  preferably)  of  the  house,  as 
shown  here.  A  hedge  bordering  a  drive  should  be  at 
least  18  inches  back  from  it.  and  larger  shrubs  should 
stand  3  feet  or  more  from  it 


Stepping-stones 
(Fig.  34)  make  a  partic- 
ularly good  garden 
walk,  as  they  are  quite  in 
harmony  with  the  spirit 
of  the  garden.  Laid 
regularly  they  can  be 
used  efifectively  in  the 
formal  garden,  but 
they  are  at  their  best 
used  as  the  informal 
walk.  Flat  stones  are 
set  flush  with  the  lawn 
surface  so  that  the 
mower  wiU  pass  over 
them  without  the 
blades  touching.  The 
stones  (or  even  pieces 
of  thick  slate)  should 
be  set  twenty  inches 
apart  from  center  to 
center;  a  good  size  to 
use  is  roughly  fifteen 
inches  wide,  twenty- 
four  inches  long,  and 
one  and  one-half  to 
three  inches  thick. 
When  broken  flagstone 
is  used  the  pieces  should 
be  fitted  together  ir- 
regularly, varying  the 
size  and  shape  of  the 
stones  as  they  are  laid. 

Brick  (Fig.  32D). 
For  straight  walks  in 
the  garden,  brickwork 
can  be  made  very  at- 
tractive; and  by  using 
the  same  kind  of  brick 
as  is  used  in  the  house, 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS  33 

one  can  produce  a  very  unifying  effect.  There  are  various  patterns 
that  can  be  followed  in  laying  the  brick  and  that  are  adapted  to 
various  widths  and  locations.     (Figs.  36,  37,  and  38.) 

Flagstone.  While  not  very  commonly  seen,  the  flagstone  walk 
is  possibly  the  most  durable  of  all  kinds.  The  stones  may  be  either 
cemented  together  (Figs.  33  and  35)  or  just  laid  in  the  turf  like  step- 
ping-stones (Fig.  34). 

FiELDSTONE  OR  COBBLESTONES  can  also  be  used  as  a  walk  either 
sunk  in  the  turf  or  laid  in  mortar;  but  this  is  not  as  a  rule  a  comfortable 
walk  unless  unusual  care  has  been  taken  in  its  construction.    (Fig.  35.) 

CONSTRUCTION    OP  WALKS 

The  first  essential  in  a  garden  path  or  walk  is  that  it  be  firm  and 
durable.    Main  walks  should  not  be  less  than  four  feet  wide. 

Cement  walks.  Fig.  32A  shows  a  cross  section  of  a  cement 
walk  which  is  practical  and  durable.  If  built  on  a  gravel  or  sandy  soil 
it  probably  will  not  need  a  foundation  of  cinders  as  illustrated,  but 
on  heavy  soils  this  is  quite  necessary.  Three  to  four  inches  of  concrete 
is  laid  on  the  cinders  and  a  one-inch  finish  coat  of  cement.    Expansion 


Fig.  31.— Neighbors  on  adjoining  properties  can  often  save  space  and  expense  and  secure 
greater  convenience  than  either  could  enjoy  alone  by  cooperating  on  a  party  drive,  turn- 
around and,  perhaps,  a  garage 


34 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


ytlCT  I  on  y  CE/^CTi^T  ^ALK 


•^CTJOIS  ^//'UCADAAV  '\>AlK,- 


E>r<aaHer  Xtast  - 1  in 
Jfein  stone  -  ^>,  in 
■Sin  sloTNc-  3jn 


•yt  cT  1  on  y  G'EAVni.  B^tm 


ytCTJOi^  /  RlLlCK  '^Li<..- 


6r<3V£l  or  cinclc^r^  -  lam 
Cooive  gravel  acreeiMn^ -<3  tf^ 
/t-ono  robble^  bncVyOroLKer 


ricU 
Ccesroc  eLorve  —  Sits. 

CJTNcleT~3 


Fig.  32.— Showing  (in  cross  section)  the  construction  of  four  popular  kinds  of  paths  and 

walks.    Note  that  in  every  case  coarse  stones  or  cinders  are  used  as  a  foundation  to  insure 

good  drainage  and  to  prevent  the  disturbance  of  the  surface  by  the  "heaving"  of  loam 

or  clay  soils  that  often  occurs  in  Winter 


joints  should  be  provided  at  short  intervals  to  prevent  injury  from 
frost.  These  joints  are  usually  filled  with  asphalt  or  sand.  For  the 
walk  in  the  garden,  cement  is  hardly  recommended  as  it  is  too  glaring 
and  hard  looking.  For  such  a  place  the  informal  stepping-stone  or 
brick  walk  is  more  desirable.  If  cement  is  used  it  should  have  a  little 
stain  added  to  the  finish  coat. 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


k 


m 


:TNt  -morta-r 


.1  jQ      te"-3:T-'.  -a  -^T-VigJ  .    .     .  ;  V  •■' 


©  ir\      «/     c.  1  7\ cj  e. 


Fig.  33.— Showing  the  method  of  constructing  a  flagstone  walk  in  which  the  stones  are 
held  in  place  by  mortar 

Stepping-stone  walks.  Such  walks  may  be  made  from  flat 
surfaced  field  or  stratified  stone  laid  as  shown  in  Fig.  34.  The  top  of 
the  stone  should  be  level  with  the  surrounding  turf.  For  this  purpose 
stone  about  eighteen  inches  by  twelve  inches  may  be  used.  Such  walks 
are  best  employed  where  a  short,  informal  path  is  needed. 

Gravel  and  macadam  walks.  Fig.  32  B  and  C  illustrate  the  con- 
struction of  these  styles. 

Brick  walks.  Fig.  32D  shows  the  construction  of  the  brick 
walk.  Such  walks  when  well  designed  and  constructed  are  very 
pleasing.  With  the  house  of  either  the  English,  Colonial  or  Dutch 
style  of  architecture  the  brick  entrance  walk  can  be  used  effectively. 
Where  curved  walks  are  needed  cement  is  perhaps  better  than  brick, 
as  it  is  easier  to  handle  under  such  conditions.  Small  brick  walks 
may  be  laid  on  six  inches  of  clean  cinders  and  an  inch  of  bar  sand  for 
a  cushion.  Larger  walks  are  best  laid  on  four  to  five  inches  of  concrete 
with  a  one-inch  sand  cushion.    Brick  laid  on  edge  or  half  bricks  on 


Fig.  34.— Plan  of  part  of  a  stepping-stone  walk  to  show  the  approximate  distance  at  which 

the  stones  should  be  set.    Their  surface  should  be  flush  with  the  surrounding  turf  so  the 

lawn  mower  can  pass  over  them  easily 


36 


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Fig.  35. — Two  kinds  of  stone  walk  viewed  from  above.    The  upper  is  of  flagstones 
set  in  mortar;  the  lower  is  of  field  or  cobblestones  set  flush  with  the  turf  of  the  lawn 

end  usually  constitute  the  curb.  A  few  designs  for  brick  walks  are 
shown  in  Figs.  36,  37  and  38.  Brick  walks  should  be  pointed  with 
cement  mortar  or  filled  with  sand.  Various  types  of  brick  may  be 
used  for  the  walk,  from  tapestry  brick  to  the  common  bench  brick, 
but  where  the  walk  is  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  garden  design  it  is 
best  to  use  a  good  grade  of  dark  colored  red  brick,  and  from  time  to 
time  go  over  the  surface  with  boiled  linseed  oil  which  will  improve 
the  texture  and  appearance. 


CONSTRUCTION    OF   DRIVES 

Waterbound  macadam  (Fig.  39).  For  the  average  driveway  on 
the  small  or  large  place  not  constantly  subjected  to  heavy  traffic, 
a  Telford  road  is  perhaps  more  economical  than,  and  just  as  serviceable 
as  any  other.  The  foimdation  for  such  a  drive  is  made  of  good  sized 
stone  (quarry  stone  is  best)  laid  at  the  bottom  with  the  long  dimension 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


Fig.  36.— An  attractive  pattern  for  a  brick  walk  best  used  for  paths  under  six  feet  in  width 


Fig.  37.— The  "basket  pattern"  for  a  brick  walk  in  which  half -bricks  placed  on  edge  form 
part  of  the  border.    This  design  is  suitable  for  wide  paths 


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I 


Fig.  38. — The  "herring-bone  pattern"  is  an  attractive  type  for  brick  walks  and  is  especially 
popular  in  old-fashioned  gardens 

of  the  stones  at  right  angles  to  the  side  line  of  the  drive.  Fragments 
should  be  used  to  fill  in  crevices  between  the  large  stones,  for  if  these 
crevices  are  not  well  filled  the  finer  stone  above  will  gradually  work 
down  and  in  time  cause  depressions  in  the  surface  of  the  drive.  Over 
the  large  stone  should  be  placed  (and  well  packed)  two  to  three  inches 
of  crushed  stone  with  a  maximum  dimension  of  about  two  inches. 
The  top  layer  consists  of  three-fourths  inch  stone  and  should  be  thick 
enough  to  cover  well  and  form  a  binder  for  the  layer  beneath.  Each 
layer  of  stone  must  be  well  tamped  or  rolled.  The  last  layer,  which 
serves  as  a  surface  binder,  consists  of  about  a  half  inch  of  breaker  dust. 
This  should  be  wetted  down  as  it  is  being  packed.  Such  drives  should 
have  an  edging  to  keep  all  stone  within  the  bounds  of  the  drive.  Brick 
on  edge  makes  a  neat  edging  and  one  easily  constructed. 

Concrete  roads.  On  a  small  property  it  is  sometimes  best  to 
use  the  cement  ribbon  drive  which  is  economical  and  apparently 
leaves  more  grass  area.  If  the  ribbon  drive  is  not  used  a  solid  cement 
drive  may  be  constructed. 

The  width  of  the  cement  drive  and  the  diameter  of  the  turn-around 
are  the  same  as  for  those  of  brick,  namely,  ten  feet  as  a  minimum 
width  for  drive,  and  65  feet  as  a  minimum  diameter  for  turn-arounds. 
The  necessity  of  laying  the  finishing  surface  of  a  cement  walk  or  drive 
before  the  under  surface  is  entirely  hard  should  be  kept  in  mind,  for 
if  the  under  surface  sets  before  the  top  is  laid  the  surface  will  no 
doubt  peel  off. 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— DRIVES  AND  WALKS 


Top  Coar/e  -  I  'clean  .breaker  c)a ^t 
£>oLLon\  -     <3' y©-©"  storve. 


6i>d>niW 


Fig.  39.— Cross  section  of  a  watcrbound  macadam  driveway  to  show  its  construction. 
Note  the  rubble  stone  gutter  and  the  cut  stone  curb  used  in  this  particular  drive 

Drainage.  If  a  road  is  quite  long  and  built  on  a  grade  it  should 
be  provided  with  a  gutter  as  shown  in  Fig.  40.  If  such  a  road  has  a 
crushed  stone  or  gravel  surface  it  should  have  considerable  camber  to 
throw  off  the  rainwater  before  it  can  wash  away  any  surface  material. 
A  few  catch  basins  (Figs.  41  and  42)  will  take  care  of  most  of  the  sur- 
face water.  If  a  sod  gutter  is  used  where  the  soil  is  more  or  less 
impervious,  a  tile  drain  should  be  laid  six  inches  below  the  bottom 
of  the  gutter. 

Rubble  stone  gutters.  On  large  areas  where  the  drives  are 
wide  and  long,  a  rubble  gutter  is  much  used.  Fig.  39  shows  details 
of  the  construction  of  such  a  gutter,  the  average  width  being  about 
sixteen  to  eighteen  inches.  To  prevent  grass  from  growing  up  between 
the  stones  they  should  be  pointed  with  cement  mortar  made  of  one 
part  cement  to  three  parts  sand. 

Catch  basins.  Unless  there  is  a  considerable  area  to  be  drained, 
or  unless  the  drains  are  not  connected  with  a  sewerage  disposal  system, 
a  catch  basin  is  not  always  necessary.  If  the  catch  basin  is  constructed 
of  concrete  the  mixture  should  consist  of  one  part  cement,  three  parts 


Fig.  40— Sections  through  two  types  of  concrete  gutter  suitable  for  use  in  connection 
with  ordinary  driveways  (A),  or  with  especially  wide  ones,  or  roads  in  which  a  distinct 
curbing  is  necessary  (B).    The  latter  type  is  also  preferable  for  roads  or  drives  on  a  slope 


40 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  41.— Cross  section  of  an  efficient  con- 
crete catch  basin  with  removable  grated 
cover  to  permit  cleaning  it  out.  Note  the 
iron  shield  or  fender  to  keep  debris  out?of 
the  drain  leading  to  the  sewer 


Fig.  42.— Section  of  a  simpler  type  of  catch 

basin  suitable  for  wide  drives  and  roads  where 

there  is  less  chance  of  extensive  flooding  and 

much  debris 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— WALLS 


41 


sand  and  three  parts  crushed  stone  or  gravel.  The  overflow  opening 
should  be  located  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  above  the  bottom  of  the 
basin  so  as  to  provide  below  it  a  space  in  which  debris  may  collect. 
This  opening  should  be  protected  as  shown  in  Fig,  41.  If  made  of 
brick,  the  walls  should  be  about  eight  inches  thick  and  the  brick 
should  be  laid  in  a  strong  cement  mixture.  The  brick  floor,  however, 
should  be  laid  dry  to  permit  seepage.  On  steep  grades  catch  basins 
should  be  installed  at  intervals  of  fifty  feet,  to  prevent  surface  wash- 
ing; on  more  gentle  slopes  150  feet  apart  is  sufl&cient. 

Walls  and  Wall  Building 

WALLS  may  be  divided  into  several  classes  according  to  mate- 
rials used.  As  a  rule  they  are  made  of  brick,  concrete, 
stone  or  wood.  Brick  walls  are  used  extensively  through  the  South 
as  they  are  not  affected  by  frost.  Many  retaining  and  fancy  walls 
are  made  of  brick.  Concrete  has  come  into  vogue  of  late  and  is  used 
considerably  for  rough  walls  and  retaining  walls.  Stone  is  probably 
used  for  general  wall  building  as  much  as  any  other  material,  as  its 
utilization  can  be  developed  in  many  ways. 


TERMS    USED    IN    WALL    MAKING 

Walls  proper  are  divided  into  two  parts — a  suhwall  and  a  super-wall. 
If  a  wall  has  two  faces  the  portion  in  the  center  is  called  the  filling. 
Stretchers  are  the  material  of  the  principal  surface  of  the  wall  laid 
lengthwise  of  the  wall.  A  header  is  a  piece  that  goes  crosswise  to  rein- 
force the  wall  (Fig.  43).  Quoins  (Fig.  46)  are  pieces  at  the  corner  for 
binding.     A  voussoir  is  a  keystone   or  wedgestone  in  the  center  of 


COP17SG 


£>AJ-0-STRADr 


m 


Fig.  43.— Front  view  of  part  of  a  brick  retaining  wall  to  illustrate  the  various  parts 


42 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  44.— Three  types  of  wall,  the  names  suggesting  their  purposes 

an  arch.  Pointing  is  laying  the  wall  up  dry  first  and  then  filling  the 
spaces  between  the  stones  from  the  outside  with  mortar.  A  1  to  2 
mixture  is  usually  used  in  pointing  and  the  result  is  called  a.  flush  joint. 
Back  pointing  is  keeping  the  mortar  well  back  in  the  joints;  this  effect 
is  also  called  a  raked  joint. 

BRICK   WORK 

Brick  for  wall  building  is  usually  divided  into  two  classes — sand 
brick  and  water  struck  brick.  The  latter  results  when  the  mold  is 
wet  and  the  material  is  pressed  in  and  burned.  The  best  grade  is 
body  brick;  second  grade  brick  is  the  common  hard  or  bench  brick, 
and  brings  about  half  the  price  of  the  body  brick.  Sand  brick  costs 
about  the  same  as  common  hard.    In  measuring,  five  bricks  are  piled 

and  measured.  A  carload 
numbers  10,000  to  15,000. 
Character  may  be  given  a 
brick  wall  by  paneling  and 
recessing. 

Bonding.  When  all  bricks 
run  horizontally  the  result  is 
called  a  stretcher  bond.  Eng- 
lish bond  is  made  of  alternate 

rows  of  headers  and  stretch- 
Fig.  45. -Diagram  of  a  corner  of  a  brick  wall         ^'^-      ^'^-   ,'*^,    s^«^^'^    ^    si^- 
to  show  (in  dotted  lines)  a  quoin  binder  COUrse  English  bond. 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— WALLS 


A 


•3R01iO"VASHiXR: 


CDOD 


De^=:'Ci:) 


□ 


If 


D 


TLt 


J^^T^I  DOTW  :ASMJ-3:"R 


LZD^l 


yl 


II     II     in 


LZDU 


c 


C  o  u  R.sr.  ashlhr. 


Fig.  46.— Three  types  of  ashler  wall  construction 


One  square  yard  of  standard  brick  on  edge  requires  sixty-one 
brick.  Brick  work  is  estimated  by  the  1000  brick.  An  eight-inch 
wall  requires  fifteen  standard  brick  to  the  square  foot;  a  twelve-inch 
wall  requires  twenty-two  and  one-half  standard  brick  to  the  square 
foot;  a  sixteen-inch  wall  requires  thirty  standard  brick  to  the  square 
foot.  Six  to  six  and  one-half  pressed  brick  are  required  per  square 
foot  of  work.  To  lay  1000  common  brick  kilncourt  requires  two  and 
one-half  bushels  or  200  pounds  of  hme,  five-eighths  yard  of  sand,  and 
one  barrel  of  cement.  In  figuring  the  number  of  brick  for  piers,  take 
the  height  by  the  distance  around  in  feet  and  consider  the  product  as 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


fill  ^  ^i£Ui\ir\6  \w3ll  • 


Fig.  47. — Section  through  a  retaining  wall  and  the  soil  it  holds  in  place,  to  illustrate 
especially  the  "weak  holes"  provided  at  intervals  to  take  care  of  the  drainage 


the  superficial  area  of  a  wall  whose  thickness  is  equal  to  the  width  of  the 
pier.  All  above  figures  include  mortar.  The  average  brick  work  requires 
about  one-tenth  yard  of  mortar  per  cubic  yard  of  finished  masonry. 


STONE   WALLS 

Stone  walls  are  usually  divided  into  two  classes — rubble  and  ashler 
walls. 

A  rubble  wall  is  any  wall  made  of  stone  in  its  natural  state,  laid 
as  a  random  or  course  wall.  Ashler  walls  are  made  of  stone  cut  to 
rectangular  lines. 

A  random  ashler  has  no  particular  horizontal  course,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  46B.  Broken  ashler  is  shown  in  Fig.  46 A  and  a  course  ashler  in 
Fig.  46C.  The  best  stone  work  has  mortar  one-eighth  inch  to  one-quar- 
ter inch  thick.  When  the  face  of  the  stone  is  left  rough  the  wall  is 
known  as  quarry-faced  ashler;  if  the  stone  is  dressed  a  little  it  is  pitch- 
face  ashler.  In  a  field  stone  wall  the  stones  should  be  of  about  the 
same  size  and  all  of  about  the  same  color.  The  weathered  surface 
should  show  on  the  wall  and  the  stone  be  laid  with  their  long  di- 
ameters horizontal.  The  largest  stones  should  be  used  at  the  base  of 
the  wall.  If  the  back  of  the  wall  is  vertical  the  stone  should  be  rough 
and  headers  that  run  through  the  wall  should  be  used. 

Foundations  for  stone  walls  are  laid  according  to  the  same  prin- 
ciples as  govern  those  for  brick  or  concrete  walls.  Ashler  work  requires 
one- tenth  yard  of  mortar  per  cubic  yard  of  finished  masonry;  rubble 
work  requires  three-tenths  to  four-tenths  yards  of  mortar  per  cubic 
yard  of  finished  masonry. 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— WALLS  45 

RETAINING  WALLS 

Oftentimes  walls  are  difficult  to  design  as  it  is  sometimes  hard  to 
estimate  the  strength  required.  WaUs  need  not  be  as  large  in  land- 
scape work  as  in  engineering  work.  If  a  wall  is  to  be  used  about  a 
garden  or  near  the  house  it  should  have  a  coping,  made  a  little  wider 
than  the  wall  to  keep  out  rain,  etc.  If  balustrades  are  to  be  used,  a 
stringer  course  (Fig.  43)  is  first  placed  on  the  wall,  then  by  means  of 
SLX-inch  dowels  the  balustrade  is  held  in  place. 

A  wall  should,  if  possible,  be  one  soHd  whole  and  not  be  made  up 
of  parts.  Retaining  walls  must  have  a  good  foundation,  never  less 
than  three  feet,  and  for  strong  walls  four  feet,  deep.  Never  build  a 
wall  on  filled  ground  unless  it  has  had  at  least  a  year  to  settle  and 
pack.  It  is  best  to  go  down  to  the  original  surface  if  possible.  A  foun- 
dation for  a  wall  on  a  hillside  should  be  built  in  steps  (Fig.  49) ;  and 
see  that  it  is  well  drained.  The  width  of  walls  should  be  one-third 
to  one-half  of  the  total  height  (Fig.  49).  If  made  of  cut  stone  masonry 
the  width  of  the  base  is  one- third  of  the  height  retained;  one-fourth 
should  be  satisfactory  for  brick  and  ordinary  masonry.  The  thickness 
should  be  greater  in  a  surcharged  wall  (Fig.  44),  say  five- tenths  to  six- 
tenths  of  the  height  retained  for  stone  masonry,  and  six-tenths  to 
seven-tenths  for  concrete.  A  long,  heavy  retaining  wall  may  have 
buttresses  placed  about  fifteen  feet  apart  to  prevent  its  breaking.  The 
work  should  be  well  bonded  by  the  use  of  mixture  of  one  part  of  cement 
to  one  and  one-half  of  sand.  Provide  weak  holes  or  openings  through 
the  bottom  part  of  the  wall  for  drainage.  If  plenty  of  stones  are  handy 
they  may  be  used  at  the  bottom  of  the  fill  to  take  care  of  the  drainage. 
Weak  holes  are  placed  about  twelve  to  fifteen  feet  apart  (Fig.  47). 

STEPS   IN  DESIGNING  A  RETAINING  WALL   (Fig.   49) 

1.  Decide  on  height  to  be  retained.  2.  Decide  on  batter  to  be 
used  (not  over  one  and  a  half  inches  to  one  foot).  3.    Decide  on 


Fig.  48. — A  dry  wall  can  sometimes  be  used  as  a  retaining  wall  where  the  cut  is  not  too  deep 
and  the  amount  of  soil  to  be  held  not  too  great.    This  sectional  diagram  suggests  such  a  use 


46 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  49.— Cross  section 
of  design  for  a  well- 
built  retaining  wall  of 
stone  or  concrete.  Note 
proportions  and  also 
the  step  construction 
on  the  up-hill  or  "fill" 
side.  Figures  in  circles 
refer  to  directions  on 
pages  45  and  47 


CONSTRUCTION  DETAILS— WALLS 


47 


TTdte-d 


depth  of  foundation.  4.  Decide 
on  proportion  of  width  to 
height  (three-tenths  to  five- 
tenths).  5.  Establish  a  verti- 
cal line  for  the  back  of  wall. 
6.  Decide  on  width  of  top  of 
wall.  7.  Draw  a  diagonal  line 
from  this  point  through  half- 
way point  in  rear  line.  8.  Erect 
a  perpendicular  from  lower  end 
of  diagonal  line.  9.  Extend  top 
of  wall  horizontally  to  meet 
this  perpendicular.  10.  Divide 
this  horizontal  line  into  some 
even  number  of  spaces  (nine 
to  twelve  inches  each). 
11.  Divide  the  perpendicular 
into  the  same  number  of  parts 
plus  one.  12.  Adopt  a  regular 
step  form  for  the  rear  of  the 
wall  using  the  vertical  line  pass- 
ing through  the  one  half-way 
point  previously  estabUshed. 
13.  The  upper  step  goes  in 
diagonally.  14.  Extend  the  foundation  six  inches  to  nine  inches 
beyond  the  wall  at  front  and  rear.     15.  Design  parapet. 


Pry  \Vall 


Fig.  50.— Sectional  view  of  a  dry  wall  showing 

location  of  perforated  pipe  to  provide  irriga- 

gation 


DRY   WALLS 

For  retaining  purposes  the  dry  wall  is  not  very  practical.  In  the 
first  place  it  is  not  substantial  enough  to  hold  any  appreciable  amount 
of  fill.  It  is,  however,  sometimes  used  as  a  facer  wall  where  the  mate- 
rial back  of  it  is  cut  away  and  not  filled  in,  in  which  case  this  type  of 
waU  in  the  garden  is  very  desirable  and  can  be  made  very  interesting. 
For  the  location  and  construction  of  such  a  wall  see  Fig.  48. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  provide  a  subirrigation  system  for  the  rock 
wall  when  Alpine  plants  are  used  in  the  prepared  pockets.  This  may 
be  accomplished  by  running  a  two-inch  agriculture  tile  along  the  top 
of  the  slope  about  a  foot  below  the  surface;  for  best  results  it  should 
be  embedded  in  crushed  stone  or  cinders.  Let  the  tile  come  up  to  the 
surface  some  place  where  it  can  conveniently  be  filled  with  water — 


48  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

from  a  hose  connection  if  possible.  Another  method  that  may  be 
employed  is  that  of  running  a  perforated  iron  pipe  along  the  top  of 
the  wall  in  practically  the  same  way  as  the  tile,  except  that  it  is  best 
to  connect  it  with  a  regular  water  supply  and  use  a  valve.  For  details 
as  to  the  method  of  construction  see  under  heading  of  Rock  Gardens 
(page  104). 


O     O    O     C     o 


Single  1i)v  Privet  PJarxted  a"  AparJ: 


-^' 


Doable  Row  Priv<aii-  Plaricda'-izApari. 


•^C^-iz'-O        €) 


Fig.  51 


Bsri^z-rr^Hcd  gp. 


Some  planting  distances  for  different  kinds  of 
hedges 


PLANT  MATERIALS  AND  THEIR  USE 

The  Objects  of  Planting 

iHE  main  principles  or  objects  of  general  planting  can  be  enu- 
merated as  follows: 

1.  To  make  a  picture.  We  can  usually  divide  a  picture  into  fore-, 
middle-,  and  backgrounds,  one  of  which  should  contain  the  chief  point 
of  interest.  Anything  to  be  developed  in  detail  should  come  in  the 
foreground.  The  design  is  of  interest  either  from  the  structural  de- 
sign or  the  applied  design  standpoint.  Planting  is  placed  as  a  frame- 
work for  the  picture.  Buildings  should  be  framed  from  at  least  one 
good  viewpoint. 

2.  To  define  areas.  By  means  of  planting  about  the  sides  of  the 
property. 

3.  To  make  a  background,  if  possible,  for  any  object  of  interest.  This 
is  especially  true  of  fore-  and  middle-ground  pictures.  Small,  simple, 
straight-Hned  buildings  need  a  background  more  than  large,  irregular- 
shaped  buildings. 

4.  To  efect  a  tracery  {a  partial  screen)  of  foliage  in  front  of  the 
object  of  interest.    It  serves  to  break  up  harsh  lines 

5.  To  screen.  May  be  dense  to  exclude  an  objectionable  object. 
Plants  and  vines  are  used  for  covering  over  uninteresting  objects,  as 
poles,  fences,  etc. 

6.  To  provide  shade. 

7.  To  divide  the  grounds  into  various  areas,  such  as  service,  private, 
public,  etc. 

8.  To  bring  out  an  accent  in  the  picture.  Lombardy  Poplars  are 
often  used  for  this. 

9.  To  give  strength  and  character  to  the  picture. 

10.  To  give  balance  to  the  picture  and  keep  it  in  equilibrium  by 
means  of  masses.  Masses  do  not  need  to  be  of  the  same  size.  Many 
of  Corot's  pictures  may  be  studied  as  good  examples. 

11.  To  apply  a  practical  reason  for  departing  from  a  logical  plan. 

12.  To  unite  harsh  lines — as  by  means  of  plants  about  the  base  of  the 
house,  etc.  This  makes  a  gradual  transition  from  ground  level  to 
vertical  walls. 


50  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

13.  As  a  barrier — use  hedges. 

14   As  a  protection — use  windbreaks. 

15.  To  prevent  washing  or  erosion  on  steep  bank. 

16.  To  cover  bare  earth. 

17.  As  a  simple,  applied  ornament — in  the  case  of  bedding  plants, 
specimen  plants,  etc. 

Distances  for  Planting 
ornamental  materials 

Trees  on  wide  streets,  40  feet  to  50  feet  apart. 

Trees  on  average  streets,  30  feet  to  40  feet  apart. 

Large  shrubs  (Lilac,  White  Fringe,  etc.),  4  feet  to  6  feet  apart. 

Medium  shrubs  (Bridal  Wreath,  Deutzias),  3  feet  to  4  feet  apart. 

Small  shrubs  (St.  John's  Wort,  Dwarf  Deutzias),  IM  feet  to  2  feet 
apart. 

Vines  on  wall  or  fence  (Boston  Ivy),  5  feet  to  8  feet  apart. 

Vines  trailing  on  ground  (Honeysuckle),  2  feet  to  4  feet  apart. 

Ground  covers  (Japanese  Spurge),  6  inches  to  12  inches  apart. 

Large  herbaceous  plants  (Michaelmas  Daisy),  18  inches  to  24 
inches  apart. 

Medium  herbaceous  plants  (Columbine,  Iris),  12  inches  to  15 
inches  apart. 

Small  herbaceous  plants  (Candytuft,  Garden  Pink),  6  inches  to 
9  inches  apart. 

Hybrid  Perpetual  (June)  Roses,  2  feet  to  23^  feet  apart. 

Hybrid  Tea  and  Tea  (Monthly)  Roses,  IH  feet  to  2  feet  apart. 

FRUIT   TREES   AND   BUSHES 

Standard  Apples,  35  feet  apart  each  way. 

Standard  Pears  and  strong-growing  Cherries,  25  feet  apart  each 
way. 

Duke  and  Morello  Cherries,  20  feet  apart  each  way. 

Standard  Plums,  Peaches,  Apricots,  Nectarines,  16  to  18  feet  apart 
each  way. 

Dwarf  Apples,  Dwarf  Pears  and  Quinces,  10  to  12  feet  apart  each 
way. 


PLANT  MATERIALS 

Grapes,  rows  10  to  12  feet  apart;  plants  10  feet  apart  in  rows. 
Currants  and  Gooseberries,  4  feet  apart. 
Raspberries  and  Blackberries,  2  to  3  feet  by  5  to  7  feet  apart. 
Strawberries  (for  field  culture),  1  by  3  feet  to  3H  feet  apart. 
Strawberries  (for  garden  culture),  1  to  2  feet  apart. 


NUMBER    OF   TREES    OR   PLANTS   THAT   CAN   BE 

PLANTED   ON  AN   ACRE 

35  feet  apart  each  way 35 

25  feet  apart  each  way 70 

20  feet  apart  each  way 110 

18  feet  apart  each  way 135 

15  feet  apart  each  way 205 

12  feet  apart  each  way 300 

10  feet  apart  each  way 435 

8  feet  apart  each  way 680 

6  feet  apart  each  way 1210 

5  feet  apart  each  way 1745 

4  feet  apart  each  way 2725 

3  feet  apart  each  way 4840 

Rule  for  finding  above  data:  Multiply  the  distance  in  feet  be- 
tween the  rows  by  the  distance  the  plants  are  apart  in  the  rows.  The 
product  will  be  the  number  of  square  feet  for  each  plant  or  hill.  This, 
divided  into  the  number  of  square  feet  in  an  acre  (43,560),  will  give 
the  number  of  plants  or  trees  to  the  acre. 


Fig.  52.— How  a  hillside  can  be  planted  to  produce  an  illusion  of  grade 


52 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 
The  Planting  Plan 


EVEN  before  the  grading  plan  is  drawn,  the  designer  must  have 
some  idea  of  the  whole  planting  scheme  so  he  may,  as  suggested,  in- 
dicate on  a  general  plan  the  approximate  size  and  shape  of  the  re- 
spective planting  areas  showing  their  correlation  in  unifying  the  whole. 


eA-R.AGE 


PciYATr, 


Fig.  53.— "The  home  grounds  should  be  divided  into  three  main  portions,"  as  illus- 
trated here.    The  proportions  of  the  different  parts  will  vary  according  to  the  desires 
of  those  who  occupy  the  property 


THE  PLANTING  PLAN  53 

The  main  purpose  of  the  planting  plan,  however,  is  to  portray  as 
vividly  as  possible  the  preconceived  idea.  It  should  indicate  not  only 
the  exact  size  of  the  planting  areas,  but  also  designate  the  number  of 
plants  to  be  used  and  their  location,  correct  spacing  and  arrangement. 
Therefore,  in  order  to  execute  a  practical  planting  plan,  the  designer 
must  know  the  principles  of  landscape  design  and  have  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  different  plant  materials  to  be  used — their  height 
and  size  at  maturity,  their  season  and  period  of  flowering,  their  natural 
habitat,  the  kind  of  soil  they  prefer,  the  location  they  succeed  in,  their 
hardiness,  their  appearance  and  their  general  adaptabiUty  to  the 
purpose  for  which  used.  It  is  to  assist  the  planter  and  designer  in 
this  task  that  this  book  has  been  written;  the  various  illustrations 
and  sketches  will  serve  to  exempUfy  the  procedure  and  the  finished 
plan. 

Where  there  is  a  flower  garden  it  is  best  to  show  on  the  general  plant- 
ing plan  merely  the  outlines,  and  have  a  larger  scale  drawing  from 
which  to  work.  In  fact,  all  features  requiring  exact  detail  work  in 
their  execution  should  be  rendered  in  this  way. 

Every  planting,  from  that  of  the  small  city  lot  to  that  of  an  ex- 
tensive acreage  should  be  first  studied  and  worked  out  on  paper. 
It  is  easier  to  erase  than  transplant. 

THE   MAIN  DIVISIONS    OF  THE    GROUNDS 

The  grounds  should  be  divided  into  three  main  portions  (Fig.  53) 
as  follows: 

The  Public  Area  consisting  of  front  lawn,  entrances  and  walks 
in  one  composition. 

The  Private  Area  consisting  of  private  lawn,  gardens  and  special 
features,  and  usually  adjoining  the  living  side  of  the  house. 

The  Service  Area  consisting  of  drying  yard,  vegetable  garden, 
drives  and  turn-around,  all  confined  if  possible  to  the  kitchen  side  of 
the  house. 

Sometimes  another  section — the  semi-public — is  included.  This 
offers  a  glimpse  of  the  private  area  and  is  treated  so  as  to  modulate 
the  transition  from  the  private  to  the  public  or  service  area. 

The  prevaihng  ideas  in  treating  these  areas  should  be,  respectively, 
that  the  public  section  should  suggest  repose  and  inviting  reception; 
the  private  section  should  give  the  impression  of  quiet  privacy  and 
lasting  pleasure;  and  the  service  section  should  give  the  impression  of 


54 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Gro(jpir\6   y  trcGs  dL  back  w'*  Koux 
ipfariMSTw  a.  back^rourxd 


A 


£. 


I-\OC\3(Z 


Fig.  54.  —Two  important  uses  of  trees  in  connection  with 
the  dwelling 

inconspicuous  seclusion.  The  first  consideration  in  designing  the 
grounds  is  the  selection  of  the  style  to  be  followed.  This  should  be 
determined  largely  by  the  surroundings  and  the  architecture  of  the 
house.  In  Gothic  architecture  vertical  lines  predominate,  while  the 
Grecian  style  is  characterized  by  horizontal  lines.  Also  we  have  the 
informal  "English  house"  and  the  Colonial.    The  most  pleasing  com- 


THE  PLANTING  PLAN 


55 


bination  of  buildings  and  planting  materials  is  obtained  by  planting 
for  contrast.  Thus,  conical  or  upright  growing  trees  look  well  against 
the  Grecian  style  of  building,  and  for  use  with  a  Gothic  style 
structure  trees  of  a  broad,  round  character  and  more  or  less  flat 
growth  are  most  effective. 

Thought  should  also  be  given  to  the  period  of  the  particular 
architecture  and  the  way  in  which  the  kind  of  plant  material  used 
harmonizes  with  that  time.  For  instance,  the  Colonial  house  natur- 
ally suggests  plants  and  flowers  that  were  brought  over  by  the  early 
settlers,  such  as  Boxwood,  Ehns,  Phlox,  Hollyhocks,  etc. 


THE   USE    OF  TREES 

The  next  step  in  developing  the  design  is  to  place  the  trees  which 
constitute  its  framework. 

Trees  are  planted  primarily  either  for  shade,  protection,  as  a 
background  (Fig.  54A)  or  to  "frame  the  picture"  (Fig.  54B).  In 
keeping  with  the  general  design,  however,  the  specimen  lawn  trees 
should  be  planted  at  the  salient  or  outstanding  points  in  the  borders, 
rather  than  in  bays. 

Background — When  planting  for  a  background,  tall  growing 
trees  that  produce  dark  shadows  should  be  selected  and  set  in  clumps 
rather  close  together,  the  distance  back  from  the  house  depending  upon 


Fig.  55.— In  planting  trees  on  a  lawn  where  ample  room  is  provided,  it  is  best  to  place 

them  in  such  positions  that  they  will  frame  the  house  as  seen  from  some  prominent  point. 

such  as  the  front  entrance 


56 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


>---] 


Fig.  56.  —Plan  of  the  corner  planting  shown  in  perspective  in  Fig. 

57.    Note  the^use  of  tall  evergreens  and  hardwood 

trees  as  accent  points 


the  surroundings.  If  these  are  quite  open  and  level, 
the  trees  are  more  effective  located  near  the  house; 
in  the  case  of  ground  rising  in  the  rear,  they  may 
be  planted  ahnost  at  the  back  of  the  lot,  or  at  a 
sufficient  height  so  that  in  the  Hne  of  vision  roof 
lines  are  effectively  softened  or  broken  by  the  mass 
of  fohage  and  branches. 

Shade — In  planting  for  shade,  the  location  of  the  trees  will  depend 
upon  the  section  of  the  country.  In  the  northeastern  states,  the  heat 
of  the  sun  is  greatest  when  it  is  in  the  southwest,  so  the  trees  should 
be  planted  on  the  southwest  side  of  the  house. 

Framing  or  Foreground  Use — When  planting  trees  about  the 
house,  it  is  advisable  to  so  place  them  that  the  house  is  "framed"  by 
them  when  seen  from  the  most  prominent  viewpoint — generally  the 
front  axis  (Fig.  55).  To  produce  this  effect  the  trees  should  be  planted 
at  each  end  of  the  house,  in  the  foreground,  so  that  the  house  "looks 
out"  from  between,  giving  the  impression  that  it,  rather  than  the  trees 
has  been  placed.  On  a  small  property  one  tree  on  each  side  will  give 
this  effect,  but  a  more  natural  setting  is  produced  by  grouping  several 
trees  (Figs.  54  and  65).  This  same  idea  can  be  carried  out  in  develop- 
ing a  vista  by  placing  the  trees  so  as  to  "frame"  the  view. 

Protection,  Windbreaks — On  larger  places,  especially  if  exposed, 
a  belt  of  trees  planted  on  the  windward  side  will  materially  increase 
the  comfort  of  the  place  as  well  as  permit  a  wider  scope  of  selection 
in  plant  material.  When  planning  such  a  windbreak,  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  break  or  interrupt  good  views  with  tall  growing  trees. 
On  the  other  hand,  a  poor  view  can  be  "planted  out"  or  hidden,  and 
even  an  indifferent  picture  can  be  greatly  improved  by  the  thoughtful 
placing  of  trees. 


THE  PLANTING  PLAN 


EFFECTIVE   SHRUBBERY  PLANTING 


Undoubtedly  the  most  important  point  to  remember  when  plan- 
ning the  shrubbery  areas,  is  to  keep  an  open  lawn.  This  means  placing 
a  positive  taboo  on  variously-shaped  beds  dotted  here  and  there  or  in 
the  center,  except  in  carrying  out  the  formal  or  the  architectural  style. 

The  corners  of  the  property  demand  greater  height  than  is  required 
along  the  lines;  therefore  ample  depth  must  be  allowed  for  planting 
tall  growing  shrubs  at  the  back  and  the  dwarfer  kinds  in  front.  This 
obviates  an  abrupt  transition  from  fohage  to  ground  line  (Figs.  56 
and  57). 

The  corner  plantings  may  be  extended  along  the  sides,  so  as  to 
make  a  continuous  "border  planting,"  which  creates  a  sense  of  privacy 
and  seclusion.  These  borders,  in  the  formal  design,  should  not  be 
straight,  but  so  arranged  as  to  form  a  series  of  small  bays  and  promon- 
tories. Not  only  is  this  result  more  natural  and  artistic,  but  by  it  the 
extent  of  the  lawn  is  apparently  increased.  Furthermore,  in  order 
to  avoid  a  monotonous  sky  Kne  a  few  small  trees  should  be  planted 
here  and  there  along  the  border  (Fig.  58). 

At  the  point  where  the  private  area  is  begun,  the  border  can  be 
made  to  jut  out  considerably  onto  the  lawn,  to  form  a  division  between 
the  public  and  private  areas.  The  service  portion  of  the  grounds  (near 
the  kitchen)  can  also  be  effectively  separated  from  the  private  area 
in  the  same  manner.    See  Frontispiece  and  Fig.  20. 


Fig.  57.-An  attractively  planted  corner  in  which  tall-,  medium-,  and  low-growing' materials 

are  correctly  used  to  produce  harmony  and  variety  without  abrupt  transition.     See  Fig. 

56  for  the  plan  of  this  arrangement 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


/IFOLMiL       J30LDtIL 

for     ImTneclisLe      Efieci.    Sr^^ 
JjCS    ^yciccession.      o/"  £)Ioom-      ^ 


Fig.  58.— Plan  of  an  informal  border  illustrating  the  use 
of  a  variety  of  shrubs  and  an  occasional  small  tree  for 
accent  in  the  sky  line. 


(A)    6  Canadian  Hemlock. 
4  Red  Pine. 

(1)  3  White  Birch. 

(2)  5  Flowering  Dogwood. 

(3)  10  Canadian  Redbud. 

(4)  5  English  Hawthorn. 

(5)  3  Sorrel  Tree  (Oxydendron). 

(6)  3  White  Fringe. 

(7)  1  Mountain  Ash. 

(8)  20  Dwarf  graceful  Deutzia. 

(9)  12  Hydrangea,  "Hills  of 

Snow." 

(10)  15  Large-flowered  Mock- 

orange. 

(11)  15  Rose  of  Sharon  (3  vars.) 


(12)  10  Pride  of  Rochester  Deutzia 

(13)  15  Bridal  Wreath,  Van  Hout- 

te's  Spirsea. 

(14)  20  Waterer's  Summer  Spirsea 

(15)  10  Japanese  Snowball. 

(16)  5  Cornelian  Cherry. 

(17)  10  Golden  Bells. 

(18)  5  African  Tamarix. 

(19)  5  Siebold's  Viburnum. 

(20)  10  Desbois's  Weigela. 

(21)  10  Eva  Rathke  Weigela. 

(22)  10  Sweet  Pepper  Bush. 

(23)  10  Butterfly  Bush  or  Summer 

Lilac. 

(24)  10  Yellow  Globe  Flower 

(Kerria). 


^^ 


(25)  5  Lindley's  Plume  Spiraea. 

(26)  10  Japanese  Storai. 

(27)  3  Smoke  Tree  or  Purple 

Fringe. 

(28)  4  Lilac  La  Tour  D'Avergne. 

(29)  7  Purple  Beauty  Fruit. 

(30)  7  Single  Hydrangea. 

(31)  15  Blue  Spirsa. 

(32)  6  Dwarf  Bush  Buckeye. 

(33)  10  Bushy  St.  John's  Wort. 


THE  PLANTING  PLAN  59 

If  a  flower  garden  is  desired,  it  should  be  enclosed  as  a  separate 
unit,  either  by  a  hedge  or  shrubbery.  Where  space  does  not  permit  a 
flower  garden,  the  shrubbery  borders  might  be  brightened  by  planting 
old-fashioned  flowers  in  masses  here  and  there  along  them  toward  the 
front.  To  add  interest  to  a  lawn,  a  birdbath  in  a  shady  nook,  or  a 
sundial  in  the  open  might  be  included — but  when  a  home  (which  in- 
cludes the  grounds)  receives  the  interested  touch  of  the  owner,  many 
ideas  will  occur  that  will  make  the  whole  design  quite  individual. 

In  some  cases  the  property  is  so  narrow  that  it  is  not  feasible  to 
devote  space  to  shrubbery  borders;  in  this  case  a  fairly  tall  hedge 
along  the  line  will  give  the  desired  privacy  without  loss  of  space.  Such 
a  property  should,  as  a  general  rule,  be  treated  in  a  more  formal  man- 
ner, Uiat  is,  by  using  chiefly  straight  lines  in  both  planting  and  walks, 
and  following  the  architectural  style  throughout  the  planting  schemes. 


THE   FOUNDATION  PLANTING 

By  this  term  is  meant  the  planting  close  to  the  house,  the  object 
of  which,  as  the  name  suggests,  is  to  conceal  or  soften  the  foundation. 

This  is  the  commonest  phase  of  planting,  and  it  is  greatly  overdone. 
Instances  are  common  where  the  house  is  practically  hidden  behind  a 
wall  of  shrubs  or  evergreens  that  have  grown  so  large  as  to  shut  out 
light  and  air,  and  which  instead  of  beautifying  the  property  have 
really  become  a  detriment. 

A  good  rule  to  follow  in  foundation  plantings  is  this:  The  lower 
the  floor  level,  the  less  base  planting  is  necessary.  Only  where  the 
house  is  set  on  a  fairly  high  foundation  should  the  planting  be  con- 
tinuous across  the  front,  and  even  then  no  tall  growing  plants  should 
be  used  under  or  near  the  windows.  The  most  effective  treatment 
is  to  extend  and  widen  the  planting  at  the  corners,  leaving  only  a  thin 
line,  if  any,  along  the  face  of  the  building  (Fig.  59). 

Where  the  floor  level  is  practically  on  the  same  line  as  the  grade, 
all  that  is  generally  necessary  is  to  accentuate  the  entrance  by  planting 
a  specimen  at  each  side,  and  to  place  a  few  at  each  corner  to  soften  the 
sharp  angle  where  walls  and  ground  meet.  Often  some  clinging  vines 
will  answer  the  purpose  and,  speaking  of  vines,  the  right  kinds  make 
excellent  covers  for  the  open  porch.  It  is  economical  to  use  copper 
wire  on  which  to  train  them. 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


THE  PLANTING  PLAN 


As  has  been  gathered  from 
the  foregoing,  the  selection  of 
plant  material  for  base  planting 
must  be  made  with  great  dis- 
crimination. The  wide  choice 
of  plant  material  that  can  be 
used  for  this  purpose  offers 
good  opportunities  for  creating 
effects  of  character  and  indi- 
viduaUty. 

If  the  preference  is  for  Win- 
ter or  all-year  effects,  evergreens 
can  be  used.  A  planting  of 
flowering  shrubbery  is  particu- 
larly pleasing  during  the  grow- 
ing season,  but  has  little  to 
commend  it  during  Winter. 
Therefore  a  combination  of  the 
two  types  with  numerous  vari- 
ations can  be  used  to  secure 
almost  any  effect  desired. 

GROUPINGS 

Walks  and  drives  are  a  prac- 
tical necessity,  but  unfortu- 
nately they  are  sometimes  so  ar- 
ranged as  to  interrupt  an  other- 
wise quiet  view.  To  overcome 
this  objection,  trees  or  shrubs 

can  be  so  disposed  along  the  walk  that  it  is  more  or  less  concealed 
and  the  view  kept  intact  and,  possibly,  improved.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  plant  a  continuous  border  along  a  lengthy  walk  or  drive;  in  fact, 
this  would  tend  to  emphasize  it  rather  than  detract  attention  from  it. 

The  planting  along  the  path  or  drive  should  have  an  object,  and 
if  the  specimens  are  grouped  by  the  junctions  and  turns,  they  will  give 


Fig.  60 — Well  planned  grouping  of  trees  or 
shrubs  along  a  drive 


Key  to  planting  plan  shown  on  opposite  page. 

(1)  2  specimen  Vanhoutte's  (5)    2  Double  Pink  Rose  of 

Bridal  Wreath  Spirsea.  Sharon. 

(2)  Dwarf  DeuUia.  (6)    6  Shrubby  St.  John's 

(3)  2  Bush  Withe  Rod.  Wort. 

(4)  2  Cork-bark  Spindle  Tree.  (7)    2  Purple  Lilac. 


(8)    2  Hills-of-Snow   Hydran. 


(9) 
(10) 


2  Amerioan  Arborvits. 
2  Mountain  Pine. 


62 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  61. — Another  well  planned  driveway  in  which  not 

only  is  the  sweeping  curve  justified  by  the  planting, 

but  also  gaps  in  the  latter  provide  attractive  vistas  at 

several  points 


the  impression  that 
the  walk  has  been  ar- 
ranged to  fit  the  plant- 
ing (Figs.  60,  61  and 
62).  On  the  other 
hand,  a  row  of  stately 
trees  along  a  straight 
drive  that  is  rather 
conspicuous,  will  add 
to  its  dignity.  Such 
avenues,  however,  are 
found  only  on  the 
larger  places. 

Often  such  shrub- 
bery groups  serve  to 
enclose  the  formal  gar- 
den, or  the  recreation 
area;  but  in  all  cases 
these  outstanding 
groups  must  "fit  in" 
with  the  general  design 
and  not  appear  de- 
tached. (See  Fig.  63  for 
types  of  tree  groups.) 

The  Principals  of 
Planting 


WHILE    planting    operations  are  simple,  it  is  of  the  atm.ost 
importance  that  they  be  carried  out  promptly  and  properly. 

All  trees  and  shrubs,  in  fact,  all  vegetation,  should  be  replanted 
as  soon  as  possible  after  being  dug.  If  the  future  location  is  not 
ready  when  the  tree  is  received,  the  roots  must  be  covered  with  soil 
and  kept  moist.  The  most  convenient  method  of  accompUshing  this 
is  to  dig  a  trench  a  foot  or  more  deep  and  lay  the  trees  or  plants  in 
it  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees  so  the  roots  are  in  the  trench; 
then  cover  all  the  roots  leaving  none  exposed.  (Fig.  66.)  If  a  large 
number  are  thus  to  be  "heeled  in,"  a  second  trench  can  be  dug  parallel 
to  the  first,  and  the  soil  taken  from  it  used  to  cover  the  roots  of  the 
plants  lying  in  the  first  trench,  and  so  on,  thus  saving  time  and  labor. 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PLANTING 


63 


Proper   PJcxTNLiiNd"  Arra.r\C!eiT\eT\i 


Fig.  62.— A  good  use  of  trees  in  conjunction  with  a  branching  walk.    The  rounded  ob- 
jects are  hardwood  trees  or  shrubs,  and  the  pointed  or  star-shaped  ones,  evergreens 


Even  in  such  temporary  planting  the  soil  must  be  firmly  tamped  and 
soaked.  It  is,  however,  most  advisable  to  have  all  in  readiness  for  the 
tree  or  shrub  that  it  may  be  planted  immediately  on  arrival. 


HOW  TO  PLANT  A  TREE 

For  any  tree  the  hole  should  be  about  two  feet  (or  more)  deep  and 
wide  enough  to  allow  the  roots  to  be  spread  out  to  their  full  length 
with  a  foot  to  spare  (Fig.  65).  Furthermore,  the  hole  should  be  made 
as  large  at  the  bottom  as  at  the  top,  and  not  taper  down  as  it  so  often 
does.  In  a  heavy  clay  soil  dig  a  little  deeper  than  actually  necessary 
and  provide  drainage  by  placing  stones  in  the  bottom.  Over  these 
(or  on  the  bottom  if  no  drainage  is  necessary)  spread  a  layer  of  rough 
upturned  sods  which  can  be  covered  with  a  layer  of  rotted  manure 
(Fig.  67).  Then  throw  in  sufficient  good  soil  to  bring  the  tree,  when 
stood  up,  to  about  the  same  level  as  when  it  was  previously  growing. 
Set  the  tree  in  the  hole  and  comb  out  all  roots  with  the  fingers,  so  that 
they  lay  in  a  natural,  horizontal  position,  and  none  are  bent  under 


64 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


A 


■1    I    W^^^^^^.j       u%  > 


1  Used  for   oLreeL,   lawiv  <ar\d  to  fraitsa 
£Ke  Koasa 

2  Used  ixidiva  <icc<ZJ^t<~^^dK<^lg|kL  Id  ^Ljrouy 
pJar\LijsdLj>   "Iorcoi\i,ra.5iwiLk  Sorizot\Lel  lii<«& 
Torn\e>l  cffccLs  Arvd  Lsll  scrcets  plariir^ 

SUsednsos-Lly  for  baI&-T\cc<i  formal affa.cJLg 

^Used  as    1bn><>i\  sp(aciTin.c2.rv  wlatvLs 

v5  Used   ■for  Icx'nX'in,  sLreeL,c>r\cl  wir\dbT(zaks 


Fig.  63. — Types  of  trees  and  some  of  their  important  uses  in  planting  the  home  grounds 


or  cramped.  Then  throw  in  the  finest  soil  you  have,  preferably  rather 
dry,  working  it  among  the  roots  so  that  every  one  comes  in  contact 
with  soil  and  none  are  left  "hung"  in  spaces.  Tamp  very  firmly  as 
the  soil  is  thrown  in  and  fill  the  hole  to  within  about  three  inches  of 
the  surface.  Fill  the  depression  with  water  three  or  four  times;  this 
wiU  settle  the  soil  so  the  tree  will  be  about  two  inches  lower  than  it 
previously  was,  which  will  leave  it  about  right.  The  following  day  the 
hole  can  be  loosely  filled  in  with  good  soil,  leaving  a  slight  depression 
around  the  tree  trunk  to  catch  the  water  (Figs.  65  and  67).  Or,  to 
facilitate  watering,  a  basin  can  be  built  up  around  the  tree  and  allowed 
to  remain  through  the  first  Summer. 

After  the  soil  is  given  a  final,  thorough  soaking,  a  three-  or  four-inch 
layer  of  manure  will  keep  it  moist  as  well  as  add  nourishment.  A  tree 
having  a  stem  over  three  inches  in  thickness  should  be  guyed  or  staked 
to  withstand  strong  winds  (Fig.  68).    Three  stout  wires  from  the  tree 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PLANTING 


65 


to  pegs  driven  firmly  into  the  ground  at  the  three  points  of  a  triangle 
will  serve  the  purpose.  To  prevent  the  wires  from  injuring  the  tree 
they  should  pass  through  pieces  of  rubber  hose  wherever  they  touch  it. 

PLANTING   WITH  DYNAMITE 

When  a  large  number  of  trees  are  to  be  planted,  or  when  the  sub- 
soil is  very  hard,  the  holes  are  sometimes  blasted  with  dynamite  (Fig. 
69).  If  this  is  done,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  hole  made  (which  is 
generally  deeper  than  is  necessary)  is  filled  firmly  up  to  the  height  at 
which  the  tree  is  to  be  planted.  If  this  is  not  done  the  soil  will  settle 
much  more  than  if  the  hole  were  dug  by  hand,  and  the  tree  will  be  left 
too  deep  and  will  not  thrive. 

TRANSPLANTING   WILD   TREES 

Before  moving  a  tree  from  the  woods,  it  is  advisable  to  root-prune 
it  as  directed  under  "Root-pruning"  (page  70).  This  should  be  done 
in  early  Spring;  then,  after  the  trench  is  filled  with  good  soil,  the  tree 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  until  the  following  Autumn  or,  better  still, 
the  next  Spring.  It  can  then  be  moved  with  less  root  injury.  If  it  is 
taken  out  in  Winter,  it  can  be  handled  with  a  frozen  ball  of  earth  and 


Fig.  64.  Diagrammatic  examples  of  tree  grouping.  (A)  is  decidedly  poor,  both  because 
it  uses  three  specimens  of  the  same  size,  shape  and  type  in  a  symmetrical  group,  and 
because  this  arrangement  detracts  from  the  real  beauty  of  any  one  of  them.  (B)  is  better, 
and  (C)  better  still,  both  of  these  having  variety  in  height,  mass,  sky  line  and  perspective 


66 


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THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PLANTING 


67 


j-lcd  ir\  oaa^TNortK  slope- 
Fig.  66.— If  conditions  are  not  right  for  planting  when 
the  stock  arrives,  heel  it  in  at  once,  as  shown  here 


gradually  lifted  out  of 
the  hole  as  illustrated 
in  Fig.  71.  In  any 
event  the  top  must  be 
cut  back  more  severely 
than  if  it  had  been 
growing  in  a  nursery, 
as  a  greater  proportion 
of  roots  will  have  been 
lost. 

PLANTING   SHRUBS 


Shrubs  should  be 
given  just  as  much  care 
as  trees,  but,  of  course, 
the  hole  need  not  be  so 
large. 

Generally  speaking,  shrubs  are  planted  in  masses,  therefore  the 
whole  planting  areas  or  beds  can  and  should  be  prepared  previous  to 
planting.  Dig  down  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches,  and  if  the  soil  is  poor, 
enrich  it  by  mixing  in  good  fertilizers  such  as  well  rotted  manure, 
lime  if  needed,  etc.  However,  if  convenient,  the  poor  soil  should  be 
entirely  replaced  with  good  topsoil,  and  this  allowed  to  settle  before 
the  planting  is  done. 

Should  the  plants  arrive  in  a  frozen  condition,  thaw  them  gradually 
in  a  cool,  shaded  place  before  planting.  If  you  are  not  prepared  to 
plant,  heel  in  the  shrubs  as  aheady  described  for  trees.  Each  shrub 
should  be  covered  separately — don't  just  heel  in  the  bundles. 

On  banks  it  is  best  to  plant  the  shrubs  in  separate  holes,  instead  of 
digging  up  the  entire  bank,  which  would  break  up  the  sod,  loosen 
the  soil  and  cause  washing. 

Whatever  pruning  is  necessary  can  be  done  much  more  easily  before 
the  tree  is  planted  than  when  it  is  set  up,  so  the  head  as  well  as  the 
roots  should  be  examined  before  planting,  and  any  needed  work  done 
while  it  is  lying  on  the  ground. 


PLANTING  HERBACEOUS   PERENNIALS 

The  most  important  thing  to  remember  in  planting  perennials  is 
to  see  that  they  are  not  too  deep,  nor,  on  the  other  hand,  set  on  the 


68 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


top  of  the  soil  and  too 
lightly  covered.  In  the 
former  case  the 
"crown"  or  heart  of 
the  plants  wiU  rot; 
whereas,  if  the  plant 
is  not  set  deep  enough, 
the  roots  will  dry  out. 
The  wide  diversity 
in  root  forms  of  peren- 
nials makes  it  impos- 
sible to  stipulate  any 
specific  depth  for  plant- 
ing them,  but  it  should 
be  an  easy  matter  to 
judge  the  proper  depth 
to  plant  on  seeing  the 
subject. 

All  perennials  that 
start  into  growth  and, 
as  a  rule,  flower  in 
early  Spring  (such  as 
the  Peony),  should  be 
planted  in  the  Fall;  for 
those  with  a  late  bloom- 
ing period  and  a  dis- 
tinct crown  of  leaves  on 
a  more  or  less  fleshy 
root,  such  as  Foxglove 
or  Poppy,  Spring  plant- 
ing is  best.  With  a  few  such  exceptions  perennials  can  be  planted 
either  in  Spring  or  in  Fall  after  growth  is  finished.  Fall-planted 
Peonies  are  sometimes  "blinded"  by  a  too  heavy  Winter  covering — 
that  is,  they  are  prevented  from  blooming  although  they  grow  luxu- 
riantly otherwise. 


Fig.  67. 


-A  correctly  planted  tree  in  the  sort  of  environ- 
ment in  which  it  should  thrive 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PRUNING 


69 


Pruning 

THE  reasons  for  pruning 
may  be  grouped  under 
the  following  five  headings: 
1.  To  modify  the  vigor  of 
the  plant;  2.  To  produce  bet- 
ter or  more  flowers  or  fruit; 
3.  To  shape  the  plant  to  de- 
sired size  or  form;  4.  To  re- 
move imperfect  or  superfluous 
wood  or  branches;  5.  To  fa- 
cilitate cultivation. 

We  may  outline  the  results 
of  various  kinds  or  degrees  of 
pruning  to  show  the  principle 
followed  in  deciding  upon  a 
certain  method:  (1)  Severe 
pruning  of  the  top  tends  to 
increase  the  production  of 
wood,  and  so  rejuvenate  weak 
or  declining  plants;  (2)  Severe 
pruning  of  the  roots  tends  to 

lessen  the  production  of  wood  and  increases  root  fiber,  and,  indirectly, 
fruitfulness. 

The  natural  tendency  of  plants  is  to  grow  from  the  uppermost 
buds.   By  heading  in  (cutting  off  the  top)  the  lateral,  dor- 

mant buds  lower  down   are        H  stimulated  to  develop. 


Fig.  68.— Trees  three  inches  in  caliper  and 

over  should  be  guyed  with  wires  in  three 

directions.     The  wires  should  pass  through 

pieces  of  hose  where  they  touch  the  tree 


Fig.  69.— Dynamite  can  be  used  to  simplify  the  digging  of  holes  and  to  loosen  a  stiff  sub- 
soil and  improve  drainage  conditions.  In  this  sketch  (A)  is  the  cracked  and  loosened  sub- 
soil; (B)  the  broken  subsoil  dug  out,  enriched,  if  possible,  with  well  rotted  manure,  and 
replaced;  (C)  the  topsoil  firmed  in  around  the  roots;  and  (D)  either  top  or  subsoil  loosely 
filled  in  and  kept  loose 


70 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Summer  pinching  of  healthy 
growths  increases  fruitfuhiess 
(forms  more  fruit  spurs)  and 
causes  the  wood  to  ripen  early, 
thus,  in  wet  seasons  especially, 
minimizing  the  danger  of  the 
wood  being  frozen  because  of  its 
soft,  sappy  condition. 

The  season  in  which  the 
pruning  is  done  has  considerable 
influence  on  flowering  or  fruit- 
ing quaHties,  because  Winter 
pruning  tends  to  produce  wood 
and  Summer  pruning  does  not. 
Local  and  chmatic  conditions 
should  always  be  considered; 
they  may  necessitate  variations 
in  any  rule. 

There  are  two  distinct 
phases  of  pruning,  namely,  root  pruning  and  top  pruning.  While 
the  majority  of  trees  and  shrubs  secured  from  a  nursery  have  already 
been  root  pruned,  it  will  perhaps  not  be  out  of  place  to  outline  the 
method  followed. 


Fig.    70.— Showing    the    correct    depth    for 

planting  an  evergreen;  the  most    important 

thing  however,  is  to  see  that  it  stands  at  just 

about  the  same  level  it  stood  at  before 


ROOT   PRUNING 

The  object  in  pruning  the  roots  of  a  newly  dug  tree  is  twofold: 
To  produce  more  root  fibers  (feeding  roots),  and  to  expedite  the  healing 
of  broken  and  damaged  roots.  The  cut  should  be  cleanly  made  with 
a  sharp  knife  or  shears,  leaving  a  smooth  surface.  The  cut  is  best  made 
from  the  under  side  upward  so  that  the  open  surface  is  facing  down. 
Fruit  trees,  as  a  general  rule,  are  root  pruned  more  severely  than 
ornamental  or  shade  trees.  This  is  because  the  quantity  of  fruit  is 
increased  by  the  production  of  more  root  fibers.  To  root  prune  an 
estabHshed  tree,  dig  a  trench  around  it  two  to  four  feet  deep,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  tree,  and  at  a  distance  from  the  stem  of  about  half 
the  spread  of  the  branches.  All  the  roots  that  are  uncovered  should  be 
cleanly  cut.  Sometimes  it  will  be  found  necessary  to  undermine  the 
tree  in  order  to  sever  the  tap  roots  which  go  straight  down.  The 
trench  should  then  be  filled  in  with  good  soil  and  this  firmly  tamped. 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PRUNING 


/leikoa       of 
"^nxov  j  T\6  <^  Lar^<2>  Tree 
WiiKTro2e-Ds    5<^U 


^7a 


Rg.  71.— The  moving  of  large  trees  in  Winter  with  large  balls  of  frozen  earth  is  a  relatively 

modern  method  and  decidedly  popular.    This  shows  the  successive  steps  in  getting  such 

a  tree  out  of  the  ground  after  the  ball  has  been  burlapped  to  prevent  injury  to  the  root 

system 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


TOP  PRUNING 

Before  removing  or  cutting  any  branch  of  any  tree  or  shrub  the 
object  in  view  should  be  clearly  understood.  Fruit  trees  are  pruned, 
generally  speaking,  to  increase  their  fruitful- 
ness;  in  ornamental  shade  trees  shapeliness  is 
desired;  in  shrubs  the  future  outHne  and 
flowering  quaUties  must  be  borne  in  mind.  It 
is,  therefore,  absolutely  necessary  that  the  per- 
son pruning  should    know  the  habits  of  the 

plant,  and 

sKootsap-  truding 

branches 
to  "shape"  the  bush,  as  is  often  done, 
with  the  result  that  all  the  flowering 
wood  is  either  shortened  or  cut  away 
entirely. 

It  is  impossible  to  dig  any  plant 
of  any  size  without  having  it  lose  some 
portion  of  the  root  system,  and  gener- 
ally, it  is  the  feeding  rootlets  that  are 
lost.  Therefore,  in  order  to  equalize 
the  consumption  of  food  and  the 
supply  (or  abihty  to  secure  it)  which 
has  been  materially  reduced  by  the 
loss  of  the  roots,  the  top  must  be  re- 
duced by  pruning  the  branches.  It 
follows  that  the  condition  of  the  roots, 
to  a  great  extent,  decides  how  severely 
the  branches  must  be  cut  back.  It  is 
safe,  and  indeed,  advisable,  to  prune 
the  top  more  severely  than  the  roots 
when  planting  a  newly  dug  tree. 

As  previously  stated,  a  well-balanced,^shapely  top  or  head  is  de- 
sired in  a  shade  tree,  and  the  tree  must  be  trained  and  pruned  with 
that  object  in  view.  The  main  stem  or  "leader"  must,  therefore,  be 
quite  distinct  from  all  side  branches.  In  the  event  of  there  being  two 
leaders,  select  the  better  and  cut  away  the  other  as  severely  as  the 


Fig.  72.— Top  pruning  or   "heading 
back"  to  induce  bushiness 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PRUNING 


<SsT<z  -f  ooTNC^  i7Ni-K<2^  Kiaescl  coL 
ociX.  iJ\«2.  poori^sLess  sko^jcn  above 


'•""<U-  H'v,  „ 

Fig.  73.— Top  pruning  to  produce  an  upright,  symmetrical  leader  or  main  trunk 

shape  of  the  tree  will  permit — even  removing  it  altogether  if  possible. 
(Fig.  73).  In  many  young  trees  the  main  stem  shoots  up  very  tall 
and  develops  few  side  branches.  In  such  a  case  the  leader  should  be 
shortened  to  induce  a  more  bushy  top,  when  a  new  leader  will  be 
formed  (Fig.  72).  If  the  tree  is  on  or  near  the  sidewalk,  all  low  branches 
should  be  removed  so  as  to  leave  at  least  seven  or  eight  feet  clearance 
for  pedestrians.  On  a  young  tree  these  low  branches  may  simply  be 
shortened  until  the  main  stem  is  sufficiently  strong  and  thick  to  permit 
them  to  be  cut  off  closely.  If,  however,  the  tree  is  on  the  lawn,  the 
lower  branches  may  be  allowed  to  remain,  and  only  the  weak  or  cross- 
ing branches  need  be  removed,  as  well  as  those  that  project  beyond 
the  general  outline  of  the  tree.  Sometimes  trees  become  too  dense  or 
crowded  and  need  to  be  thinned  out.  Before  cutting  it  is  advisable 
to  mark  those  branches  which  can  be  removed  without  spoihng  the 
shape  or  leaving  a  hole  in  the  head.    Thinning  in  this  way,  that  is,  by 


74 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


.''  5  ""^^a*^— M>a 'i<2  ccit_  o-rv  oT^<ie--r  side- 


V 


in<2TN  ccj'LTx<Z3ct_'tb-rr\aiTs,i3roT\V;. 


'I 


Fig.  74. 


-How  to  cut  off  a  large  limb  to  prevent  its  splitting  off  and 
jagged  wound 


leJung  a  long. 


removing  whole  branches,  is  highly  preferable  to  simply  clipping  or 
shortening  the  ends,  or  cutting  away  the  top. 

When  sawing  off  a  large  limb,  first  make  a  cut  on  the  underside  to 
eliminate  the  possibiUty  of  tearing  the  bark  when  the  limb  falls. 
Furthermore,  the  limb  should  first  be  cut  off  at  some  distance  from 
the  stem,  and  afterward  quite  close  to  it  (Fig.  74).  All  newly  cut 
surfaces  should  be  painted  thoroughly  to  keep  out  rain  and  the  action 
of  frost.  Any  good  lead  paint  will  serve,  but  liquid  asphalt  or  tree 
varnish  has  been  found  most  effective  and  durable. 

PRUNING  FLOWERING   SHRUBS 

Unless  a  formal  shape  (topiary  work)  is  desired,  shrubs  should 
never  be  clipped  with  hedge  shears,  or  cut  in  any  way  that  will  tend 
to  form  a  flat  top  or  sides.  The  majority  of  shrubs  need  but  little 
annual  pruning,  and  this  must  be  done  at  the  right  time  and  in  the 
right  manner.  It  is  often  necessary,  however,  to  rejuvenate  shrubs, 
and  this  can  be  accomplished  by  cutting  away,  right  to  the  ground, 
all  the  old  branches  and  by  shortening  the  weak  wood  (Fig.  75).    This 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PRUNING 


75 


will  be  effective  in  producing  strong,  young  shoots  that  will  bear 
flowers  and  more  healthy  foliage. 

When  shrubs  are  growing  too  vigorously  and  need  to  be  reduced 
in  size,  the  pruning  should  be  done  before  the  flower  buds  have  formed. 
For  instance,  all  Spring  flowering  shrubs  (Golden  Bell,  Bridal  Wreath, 
Japan  Quince,  etc.)  should  be  pruned  soon  after  they  have  finished 
flowering,  by  simply  removing  old  wood  to  keep  the  bush  open  and  to 
force  the  production  of  more  flowering  branches.  Other  shrubs,  such 
as  the  Hydrangea,  which  bloom  late  in  Summer  or  Autumn,  should 
be  cut  back  in  early  Spring,  as  they  flower  on  the  branches  that  are 
produced  that  year  (Fig.  76).  Still  another  group,  typified  by  the 
Lilacs,  need  never  be  pruned  beyond  the  point  of  the  removal  of 
dead  and  very  old,  scraggly  branches;  it  is  safest  to  do  this  just 
after  the  flowering  period. 


:i::  (u.  :'i^fc:^v/-- 


:K(2S  B 


Fig.  75.— Where  to  prune  flowering  shrubs.   The  old  wood  (A)  and" the  injured  branches 

(B)  need  most  and  first  attention.    Then  proceed  to  the  necessary  shaping  of  the 

vigorous  growth.    As  a  rule,  prune  just  after  the  plant  has  bloomed 


76 


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PRUNING   HEDGE 
PLANTS 

The  initial  pruning 
of  a  newly  planted 
hedge,  such  as  Privet, 
should  be  done  at  the 
time  of  planting  if  in 
Spring.  If,  however, 
the  planting  is  done  in 
Autumn,  it  is  better  to 
merely  shorten  the 
growths  so  that  they 
will  not  be  swayed  by 
the  wind,  and  then 
prune  severely  in 
Spring.  Strong  grow- 
ing plants  similar  to 
the  Privets  should  be 
cut  down  to  within 
three  or  four  inches  of 
the  ground  and  then  allowed  to  grow  unmolested  for  a  season.  The 
following  Spring,  they  should  again  be  shortened — to  about  one  foot 
this  time,  and  of  course,  clipped  to  as  narrow  a  width  as  desired. 
During  the  second  season,  the  growths  can  be  shortened  three  or 
four  times,  as  in  this  way  a  hedge  that  is  dense  right  down  to  the 
ground  is  formed  (Fig.  77).  If  a  taller  hedge  is  desired,  the  height 
should  be  attained  gradually  rather  than  in  one  year.  The  base 
should  in  all  cases  be  broader  or  at  least  as  broad  as  the  top,  other- 
wise the  hedge  will  become  top-heavy  and  have  a  tendency  to  break 
down  under  the  additional  weight  of  snow,  etc. 


Afcj^. 


Fig.   76.— Generally  speaking,   the  more  vigorous   the 

pruning  the  more  abundant  the  resulting  blooms.    Cut 

back  Fall-blooming  sorts  (Hydrangeas,  for  instance)  in 

early  Spring 


PRUNING  EVERGREENS 

When  used  in  the  composition  of  the  general  landscape  picture, 
evergreens  need  practically  no  pruning,  with  the  exception,  of  course, 
of  the  removal  of  dead  and  broken  branches.  There  are,  however, 
many  instances  when  it  is  desired  that  the  growth  be  checked  so  that 
the  plant  in  question  may  be  kept  proportionate  in  size  to  its  near 
companions,  as  in  a  foundation  planting.  Sometimes  a  specimen 
evergreen  becomes  thinly  clothed  and  should  be  clipped  or  pruned  to 
induce  a  more  vigorous  growth  of  lateral  branches  and  twigs.    The 


THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  PRUNING 


77 


symmetrical  shape  of  the  evergreen  is  also  maintained  by  such  pruning. 
This,  which  may  be  called  the  main  or  annual  pruning,  should  be  done 
just  when  growth  commences  in  Spring.  While  the  work  is  often  done 
with  hedge  shears,  it  is  best  to  shape  the  tree  or  bush  in  question  with 
a  knife.  By  pruning  in  this  way  and  occasionally  pinching  the  long 
growths,  the  tall  growing  kinds  can  be  kept  comparatively  low;  hence 
we  sometimes  see  them  used  in  base  and  low  plantings.  The  well- 
known  dwarf  trees  of  Japan  are  stunted  and  contorted  by  persistent 
pinching,  by  tying  the  shoots,  and  by  constricting  the  roots.  By 
pruning  off  the  leader  of  a  young,  thin  evergreen,  it  can  be  made  to 
widen  out  into  a  well-shaped  bush,  and  another  leader  can  be  formed 
by  selecting  a  well-placed,  strong  shoot  and  tying  it  to  a  stake. 

PRUNING   VINES 

The  general  principles  of  pruning  shrubs  can  be  apphed  to  woody 
vines — when  they  need  pruning.  This,  however,  is  very  seldom. 
Take  out  the  old  wood  and  endeavor  to  promote  the  growth  of  healthy 
young  shoots  upon  which  the  fruits  or  flowers  are  produced. 


*-■-*• 


rri\/<2«L  pl2i.T\L<z^  j.t\  doabU  row. 


H<2dc2jtz-.5K.oaJcl  t)el.rirr\me<l5<2V<arc3l  i,irrv2.sa_>^ar 

Fig.  77— To  make  a  hedge  dense  right  down  to  the  ground,  prune  it  frequently  during  its 
first  few  years  of  growth 


78  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Winter  Protection 

TREES  and  shrubs  used  to  any  great  extent  in  landscape  planting 
are  hardy,  and  need  little  or  no  protection.  Notwithstanding 
this,  it  is  a  good  practice  to  spread  a  layer  of  manure  over  the  bed 
after  the  soil  is  frozen,  especially  the  first  Winter  after  transplanting 
or  until  the  planting  is  established.  All  tender  and  half-hardy  shrubs 
can  be  effectively  protected  by  burying  them  according  to  the  method 
described  for  tree  Roses  (page  90).  Small  shrubs  can  be  covered 
with  baskets,  barrels,  and  boxes  as  is  suggested  for  Rose  bushes. 

Roses.  The  protection  of  Roses  is  taken  up  under  "Rose  Gar- 
dens" (page  90).  Pine  or  evergreen  branches  can  also  be  placed  among 
the  bushes. 

Evergreens.  The  greatest  danger  that  evergreens  need  protec- 
tion from  is  the  Winter  and  Spring  sun.  The  low  temperatures  freeze 
the  sap  in  the  foliage;  then  when  the  sun  strikes  the  leaves,  the  sap 
thaws  out  rapidly,  breaking  down  the  cell  walls.  The  bad  "scalding" 
that  results  turns  them  quite  brown.  The  object,  then,  is  to  provide 
shade  in  the  right  place.  This  can  be  effected  by  sticking  native  Pine 
branches  into  the  ground  on  the  south  and  east  sides  of  the  evergreens. 

Another  method  is  to  "box"  the  evergreens  with  cheesecloth,  or 
to  build  a  tent-like  arrangement  around  them  after  covering  the  whole 
with  straw.  They  can  also  be  loosely  wrapped  in  burlap,  but  this  is 
not  so  good  a  method  as  it  is  liable  to  crowd  the  branches.  A  good 
mulch  of  manure  on  the  soil  will  protect  the  surface  roots.  Dwarf 
plants  can  be  simply  covered  with  Pine  boughs. 

Bulbs.  A  good  layer  of  manure  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  ordi- 
nary Spring-fiowering  bulbs.  The  danger  involved  in  wintering  half 
hardy  or  tender  bulbs  is  less  that  of  their  freezing  than  that  of  their 
decaying.  The  latter  result  is  caused  by  standing  water  which  can 
be  prevented  by  mounding  the  soil  above  the  bulbs  so  that  the  water 
is  quickly  shed. 

Herbaceous  perennials.  No  one  general  method  can  be  applied 
to  all  perennials,  but  the  majority  can  be  covered  merely  with  light, 
long  manure  or  hay  (preferably  salt  hay)  which  must  not  be  apphed 
until  after  the  ground  is  frozen.  If  the  manure  is  used,  a  good  plan  is 
to  stick  pegs  into  the  border  a  foot  or  so  apart,  near  the  plants,  to  keep 
it  from  resting  directly  on  them.  In  the  Spring  dig  the  finer  parts  of 
the  manure  under. 


WINTER  PROTECTION 


79 


Some  perennials  have  a  fleshy  root  system  (as  Alkanite,  Hollyhock, 
Foxglove,  Poppy,  etc.)?  and  these  are  likely  to  decay  as  a  result  of 
standing  in  water.  Therefore,  as  in  the  case  of  tender  bulbs,  mound 
the  soil  above  them;  then  after  it  has  frozen,  the  manure  or  hay  can  be 
spread. 

Another  class  of  plants  which  retain  their  leaves  throughout 
Winter — both  shrubs  and  perennials — should  be  well  covered 
with  dry  leaves,  which  can  be  kept  in  place  by  boards  laid  right  over 
them.  So  placed,  the  boards  will  prevent  water  from  soaking  directly 
through  the  leaves  to  the  plants,  and  possibly  heating  and  decaying 
them.  No  moist  or  fresh  manure  should  come  in  direct  contact  with 
any  perennials. 

Vines  can  be  covered  with  burlap  as  suggested  for  climbing  Roses . 
If  not  hardy,  take  them  down  and  bury  them,  mulching  afterward. 
However,  very  few  vines  need  much  attention. 


riller  Plar^ls 


pla-Kts  pla-r<L£. 

■J^^tioV  Color  .ir\iKe 


Fig.  78.— On  the  basis  of  color,  plant  materials  should 
be  used  in  a  border  in  about  these  proportions:    Filler 
material,  4  parts;  interest  material,  2  parts;  accent  mate- 
rial, I  part.     (See  page  83) 


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C 


p/  >^    TfLP^HAce- 


Fig.  79.— Correctly  used,  different  shades  of  foliage  color  as  viewed  from  a  terrace 
can  give  the  garden  apparently  increased  dimensions.     In  this  plan,  RG  is  reddish- 
green;  YG  is  yellow-green,  and  BG  is  bluish-green 


GARDEN  DESIGN  AND  GARDEN  MAKING 

COLOR  IN  THE  GARDEN 

COLOR  is  made  up  of  three  parts  or  elements:  The  value  of  a 
color  is  its  degree  of  lightness  or  darkness;  two  colors  may 
be  blue,  but  one  a  light  blue  and  the  other  a  dark  blue. 
Hue  is  the  individual  pigment  that  gives  a  color  its  name,  such  as  red, 
blue,  etc.  Intensity  is  the  brilliancy  of  a  color,  as  a  bright  or  shiny 
blue  is  distinguished  from  a  dull  blue.  Brilliant  colors  when  used 
in  the  garden  give  us  accent;  they  are  readily  distinguished  and  seem 
set  apart  from  other  colors.  Should  one  have  a  border  planting  of  peren- 
nials composed  of  a  number  of  brilliantly  colored  plants,  it  would  be 
difficult  to  secure  any  accent,  as  all  would  clamor  for  attention. 

Colors  are  divided  into  two  main  classes:  the  primaries — red, 
yellow  and  blue ;  and  the  secondaries — green,  orange  and  purple.  When 
one  color  is  said  to  be  a  complement  of  another  it  means  that  the  two 
have  nothing  in  common,  as  in  the  case  of  orange  and  blue — there  is 
no  trace  of  one  color  found  in  the  other.  Such  colors  are  also  called 
contrast  colors.  Complementary  colors  mixed  in  equal  quantities  pro- 
duce gray,  or  the  neutral  color,  but  they  may  be  effectively  used  to- 
gether in  unequal  quantities  so  as  to  allow  one  color  to  predominate, 
as  by  planting  a  few  White  Birches  against  a  heavy  background  of 
evergreens. 

Almost  every  color  may  be  found  in  plant  material  in  some  form 
or  other,  but  usually  in  leaf,  blossom,  fruit  or  stem.  Plants  vary  in 
color  value  as  the  distance  increases,  for  at  a  distance  they  appear  to 
take  on  a  bluish  cast.  This  fact  may  be  taken  advantage  of  in  creating 
apparently  increased  dimensions  by  the  use  of  bluish  foliage,  such  as 
that  of  the  Bush  Honeysuckles,  Spiraea  Vanhouttei,  etc. 

If  a  garden  is  usually  seen  from  a  certain  definite  viewpoint  such 
as  a  window  or  terrace,  it  is  well  to  arrange  the  colors  so  as  to  ap- 
parently increase  the  distance  (Fig.  79). 

Where  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  choose  harmonizing  colors, 
there  usually  exists  a  series  of  color  exclamations,  each  fighting  for 
supremacy,  whereas  the  body  of  the  garden  or  the  beds  should  consist 
of  unifying  shades  with  a  few  contrasting  colors  for  accent;  this  will 
emphasize  and  enliven  the  whole  effect. 

81 


82 


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1 — 1  1 — 1 



' 

1 

1 

: 

Fig.  80.— 5oine  geometrical  bases  found  in  or  back  of  the  designs  of  most  formal  gardens 


COLOR  IN  THE  GARDEN  83 

Primary  colors  may  be  used  together  if  only  small  amounts  are 
employed.  It  is  not  a  good  idea  to  have  several  shades  of  the  same  hue 
together,  as  in  a  bed  of  variously  colored  Geraniums  where  all  clamor 
for  supremacy.  This  is  the  same  result  as  a  discord  in  music.  Plants 
should  be  separated  into  two  factors,  those  possessing  a  dominant 
note,  and  those  of  a  modifying  note,  the  latter  giving  a  suggestion  of 
some  other  color,  but  still  holding  to  the  color  scheme.  Accent  plants 
should  appear  not  among  the  filler  plants,  but  either  in  the  background 
or  in  the  facer  row.  Plant  material  in  a  border  should  be  used  in  about 
the  following  proportions:  Filler  material,  four  parts;  interest  material, 
two  parts;  accent  material,  one  part  (Fig.  78).  Keep  pink  and  orange 
away  from  mottled  fohage.  Use  white  in  good-sized  areas — not  in 
Httle  patches. 

METHODS  OF  USING  COLORS  IN  A  GARDEN 

(1)  To  show  a  single  color  throughout  the  season.  (2)  To  show 
one  single  color  in  a  color  scheme  extending  throughout  the  season. 
(3)  To  provide  combinations  changing  throughout  the  season.  (4)  To 
create  a  gradual  trend  of  color  from  end  to  end. 

Distance  tends  to  soften  colors.  Contrasting  colors  give  emphasis 
to  each  other.  Opposite  colors  give  good  contrast.  Intermediate 
colors  tend  to  produce  a  discord.  White  is  a  peacemaker — it  can 
be  used  with  any  color.  Bright  colors  can  be  used  in  exposed  places; 
dark  colors  should  be  used  in  shaded  places.  Blue  and  purple  will 
not  reflect  in  a  pool;  use  straw  colors.  Blue,  next  to  magenta,  is 
most  diflScult  to  use. 

The  Formal  Garden 

rules  and  suggestions  for  its  design 
(See  Figs.  80,  81  and  82) 

1.  Formal  gardening  should  be  attempted  only  on  relatively  small 
areas.  For  the  ordinary  family  garden  one-quarter  to  one-half  acre 
would  be  the  maximum  allowance;  for  a  very  pretentious  private 
mansion,  one  to  two  acres;  for  large  public  grounds,  three  to  five  acres. 
Best  results  are  usually  secured  on  areas  considerably  smaller  than 
these  maxima. 

2.  The  area  should  be  rectangular  or  nearly  so.  Circular  or  semi- 
circular areas  can  sometimes  be  designed,  but  they  are  difl&cult. 


84 


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■/  ,'nx^   /V  -J"  y"^  ''K 


.l^Ha£^.  B  H )  C  l(    o-  d  LA-Y  n  L 


stellata 


_f^ 


Fig. 


£/i  d  A   /or  • 
-A  suggested  planting  plan  for  a  small,  square  formal  garden 


3.  The  area  should  be  level  or  nearly  so.  Where  it  slopes  distinctly 
it  should  be  brought  to  two  or  more  levels  by  terracing. 

4.  The  formal  garden  should  be  wholly  and  distinctly  enclosed  by 
buildings,  walls,  hedges,  or  shrub  borders.  Occasional  outlooks  may 
be  provided  through  or  over  these  bounds,  but  they  must  be  managed 
with  great  skill. 

5.  In  the  rectangular  space  no  definite  proportion  between  length 
and  breadth  is  obligatory,  but  best  results  can  usually  be  secured  with 
a  ratio  of  about  seven  or  eight  to  five. 

6.  Each  garden  must  have  as  its  chief  structural  feature  a  major 
axis.    This  will  nearly  always  be  developed  on  the  median  longitudinal 


THE  FORMAL  GARDEN  85 

line.     In  exceptional  cases  the  main  axis  may  be  developed  trans- 
versely to  the  greatest  length  of  the  garden. 

7.  At  right  angles  to  this  major  axis  a  minor  axis  might  be  de- 
veloped. In  some  cases  two  or  three  minor  axes  are  permissible.  In 
rare  cases  also  the  minor  axis  may  be  merely  indicated  or  entirely 
suppressed. 

8.  The  minor  axis  or  axes  must  be  distinctly  subordinate  to  the 
major  axis  in  all  particulars — in  width,  in  length  (usually),  in  interest 
and  in  termini  (see  10,  11  and  12).  In  the  case  of  a  garden  having 
several  minor  axes  their  combined  length  should  be  less  than  the 
length  of  the  major  axis. 

9.  Major  and  minor  axes  will  often  be  treated  as  paths  which 
should  be  nicely  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  gardens.  The  width 
of  the  path  in  the  major  axis  should  be  about  ten  per  cent  of  the 
width  of  the  garden;  that  of  the  minor  axis  should  be  less. 

10.  Each  axis  must  be  provided  with  suitable  termini,  and  these 
termini  must  appear  definitively  at  the  ends  of  the  axes. 

11.  These  termini  must  be  objects  of  definite  interest  and  beauty. 
Those  most  commonly  employed  are:  Fountains,  sundials,  seats, 
arbors,  pergolas  (of  doubtful  suitability),  statues,  tea  houses,  and  small 
buildings  generally.  A  broad  outlook  over  several  miles  of  beautiful 
scenery  does  not  terminate  any  axis;  and  it  is  never  permissible  to 
allow  any  axis  to  disappear  into  any  exterior  view. 

12.  These  terminal  features  must  be  carefully  proportioned  in  size 
and  interest  to  the  length  and  importance  of  the  axes  on  which  they 
are  placed.  Roughly  speaking  the  height  of  the  terminal  features 
may  be  ten  per  cent  of  the  total  length  of  the  axis.  Features  on  the 
major  axis  must  be  distinctly  larger  and  more  interesting  than  those 
on  the  minor  axis.  In  case  several  minor  axes  are  developed,  their 
termini  must  be  plain  and  inconspicuous;  nevertheless  definite  terminal 
features  must  be  provided. 

13.  Fountains,  arbors,  belvideres,  etc.,  must  not  be  built  within  the 
garden  so  as  to  obstruct  the  general  view.  Under  no  circumstances 
should  anything  be  built  upon  any  axis  intermediate  between  the 
termini  in  such  a  manner  as  to  interrupt  the  axis  line.  The  intersec- 
tions of  axes  may  often  be  marked  by  pools  of  flat  water  (not  playing 
fountains).  Pools  in  this  position  are  attractive  on  account  of  the 
reflections  they  offer  toward  the  principal  points  of  view. 


86 


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4\  FORAVO. .  6 ADTOM  d^ 


Fig.  82.— A  design  for  a  somewhat  more  elaborate  formal  garden. 

This  well  illustrates  the  axis  construction  and  also  the  use  of  a 

terminal  feature— the  bird  bath  in  this  case 


Key  to  Planting  Plan 

Key 

(  1)  Delphinium  belladonna 

(  2)  Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

(  3)  Nepeta  Mussinii 

(  4)  Thalictrum  diptero- 
carpum 

(  5)  Veronica  subsessilis 

(  6)  Anchusa  italica 

(  7)  Phlox  Elizabeth  Camp- 
bell 

(  8)  Statice 

(  9)  Aconitum  Fischeri 

(10)  Aster  Climax 

(11)  Veronica  spicata 

(12)  Delphinium  belladonna 

(13)  Nepeta  Mussinii 

(14)  Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

(15)  Nepeta  Mussinii 

(16)  Salvia  pratensis 

(17)  Aquilegia  hybrids 

(18)  Delphinium  hybrids 

(19)  Alyssum  saxatile 

(20)  Campanula  Medium 

(21)  Hollyhocks 

(22)  Linum  perenne 

(23)  Phlox  Rynstrom 

(24)  Gaillardia  grandiflora 

(25)  Helenium    Riverton 

Beauty 

(26)  Dianthus   (crimson) 

(27)  Iris  Lohengrin 

(28)  Iris  Rhein  Nixe 

(29)  Helenium  rubrum 

(30)  Euphorbia  polychroma 

(31)  Alyssum  saxatile 

(32)  Aquilegia  hybrids 

(33)  Delphinium  hybrids 

(34)  Phlox  Rheinlander 

(35)  Hollyhocks 

(36)  Linum  perenne 

(38)  Nepeta  Mussinii 

(39)  Salvia  pratensis 

(40)  Phlox  La  Vogue 

(41)  Phlox  La  Vogue 

(42)  Phlox  B.  Comte 

(43)  Phlox  B.  Comte 

(44)  Phlox  Arendsii  Greta 

(45)  Veronica  longifolia 

subsessilis 

(46)  Anthemis  tinctoria 

(47)  Stachys    grandiflora 

superba 

(48)  Iberis  gibraltica 

(49)  Phlox  Lapham 

(50)  Plumbago  Larpentae 

(51)  Iberis  gibraltica 

(52)  Veronica  longi.  sub.    , 

(53)  Ranunculus  acris  fl.  pi. 

(54)  Campanula  glomerata 
(.55)  Matricaria  Little  Gem 


THE  FORMAL  GARDEN  87 

14.  Any  treatment  of  the  free,  rectangular  spaces  outside  the  axes 
is  better  applied  to  the  margins  of  such  spaces  than  to  the  centers. 
The  latter  should  be  left  free,  or  at  any  rate  should  not  be  made  sites 
for  mass  effects  of  architecture  or  planting  which  would  compete  in 
interest  with  the  axial  termini. 

15.  Color  effects,  where  attempted,  are  better  developed  along  the 
boundaries,  in  wall,  hedge  or  border  plantings,  than  in  the  interior 
spaces. 

16.  Details  of  architecture  and  sculpture  must,  of  course,  be  kept 
consistent  throughout  the  garden.  Simple  and  classical  forms  are 
usually  to  be  preferred. 

17.  The  flower  bed  should  not  be  planted  directly  against  the  hedge 
(or  other  divisional  planting),  but  should  be  separated  from  it  by  a 
two-  or  three-foot  walk  or  path.  This  arrangement  simpUfies  upkeep, 
makes  cutting  convenient  from  both  sides  of  the  beds  and  somewhat 
removes  the  plants  in  the  bed  from  the  influence  of  the  shrubbery  roots. 

Rose  Gardens 

OWING  to  their  requirements  (and  quite  apart  from  their  worthi- 
ness) Roses  are  best  grown  separately — in  a  Rose  garden,  for 
example.  This  "garden"  may  comprise  a  simple  bed  or  a  large 
space  set  apart  and  treated  in  a  formal  manner.  Sometimes  Roses 
are  grown  in  the  general  "flower  garden"  in^  conjunction  with  herba- 
ceous perennials,  but  where  space  permits  they  should  be  kept  separate. 
The  site  selected  for  Roses  must  be  open,  well  drained  and  such  as 
will  enable  them  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun,  with  perhaps  a  little 
shade  in  the  afternoon;  and,  preferably,  a  southeastern  exposure. 
Avoid  low,  moist  places.    If  a  goodly  number  of  bushes  are  to  be 


Goo 


d 


e>" 
roK<2.i\  StoJNB^' 


Fig.  83. — Section  through  a  Rose  bed  to  show  advisable  construction  on  all  but  the  best 
drained  soils — in  which  the  layer  of  broken  stone  might  well  be  omitted 


88  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

planted,  a  garden  can  be  designed  sufl&ciently  large  to  accommodate 
them;  but  whether  just  a  few  plants  or  a  whole  garden  is  decided  upon, 
the  beds  must  be  made  a  practical  width. 


WIDTH    OF   ROSE    BEDS 

The  size  of  the  garden  will  have  some  bearing  on  the  width  of  the 
beds,  but  in  no  case  should  they  be  more  than  four  and  one-half  feet 
wide,  and  three  feet  is  better.  This  is  not  only  a  practical  considera- 
tion from  the  standpoint  of  cutting  the  flowers,  but  in  addition,  Roses 
produce  a  better  effect  when  arranged  in  narrow  beds,  with  a  large 
area  of  turf  surrounding  them. 

The  shape  or  outline  of  the  beds  should  follow  the  lines  of  the 
garden,  leaving,  if  possible,  a  good,  broad  panel  of  turf  down  the 
central  axis. 

A  bed  three  feet  wide  will  accommodate  two  rows  of  bushes  planted 
eighteen  inches  apart  and  nine  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  bed. 

Turf  makes  the  most  pleasing  walk  from  a  practical  as  well  as 
from  an  esthetic  standpoint,  the  ground- 
work of  green  forming  a  splendid  foil  for 
the  rich  colors  in  the  Roses. 

PREPARATION    OF   ROSE   BEDS 

As  previously  stated,  Roses  must  have 
good  drainage,  and  to  make  sure  of  this  it  is 
advisable  to  supply  drainage  in  each  bed. 
While  it  must  not  be  understood  that  the 
following  instructions  are  absolutely  impera- 
tive to  successful  Rose 
growing,   it  is   certain 
that  the  better  the  soil 
and  conditions  they  are 
given,   the   better .  the 
Roses  will  grow. 

This,  then,  is  the 
ideal:  Dig  out  the  bed 
two  or  two  and  'one- 
half  feet  deep.  On  the 
bottom  place  a  six-inch 
layer  of  broken  stone  or 


— PeplK  ±-D  plarxt  • 


Fig.  84. — Planting  a  Rose  bush — one  case  in  which  the 
reset  plant  should  stand  deeper  than  it|grew  before 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 

fair-sized  cinders.    This  "^  \\  //  II  II  a 

can  be  covered  with  up-  11  1/  if    I  ^  ^^'^'  ^^^^  /oT^Wirxter 

turned  sods  (or,  if  small 

stone  is  used,  the  sods 

may  be  omitted).    Over 

this  spread  a  layer  of  S^s.         Ba.T\k<2cl  -o^iLK 

old  cow  manure  about  ,^?:^^^^    dirl/fer  wmLe-r 

six  inches  thick   when 

tamped    down.     Then 

fill  up  the  bed  with  good 

soil.    The  best  prepared      Fig.  85. -Protecting  Roses  in  Winter.    After  the  ground 

soil    for   Roses   consists  freezes,  cover  with  leaves,  litter  or  strawy  manure 

of  two-thirds  good  clay 

loam  and  one-third  well  rotted  cow  manure.    The  beds  should  then 

be  allowed  to  settle  before  planting  (Fig  83). 

PLANTING  ROSES 

There  is  a  wide  diversity  of  opinion  as  to  the  best  season  for  Rose 
planting,  but  many  of  our  most  successful  amateur  and  professional 
growers  prefer  Autumn.  They  reason  that  the  plant  becomes  thor- 
oughly settled  or  established  by  Spring  and  has  the  advantage  of  a 
full  season's  growth  beginning  the  first  warm  Spring  day.  Further- 
more, the  soil  is  certainly  in  a  better  condition  for  planting  in  the  fall, 
being  warm,  moist  and  friable,  whereas  in  Spring  it  is  wet  and  cold 
from  thawing  frost  and  snow. 

If  planted  in  Fall,  the  bushes  must  be  protected  thoroughly,  accord- 
ing to  the  method  described  later.  Whether  done  in  Spring  or  Fall, 
the  actual  planting  operations  are  the  same.  It  is  most  important 
that  the  roots  be  kept  moist,  as  the  Rose  produces  only  a  few  fibrous 
or  feeding  roots,  and  those  few  must  never  be  exposed  to  sun  or  air. 
Therefore,  keep  them  covered  right  up  to  the  actual  moment  of 
planting.  On  a  bright  or  drying  day  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  nearby 
a  bucket  of  water  or,  preferably,  of  clay  puddle  in  which  to  dip  the 
roots  of  each  plant  as  it  is  unpacked  or  uncovered.  In  this  way  the 
root  fibers  are  kept  fresh  and  the  plants  suffer  no  check. 

Just  as  in  all  other  cases,  the  hole  dug  for  the  Rose  plant  must  be 
amply  large  to  permit  spreading  the  roots  without  cramping  them. 

The  best  Roses  are  "budded;"  that  is,  the  desirable  kind  has  been 
grafted  on  the  more  vigorous  and  hardy  rootstock.  Generally  the 
"bud,"  or  place  where  it  was  grafted  or  budded,  is  near  to  the  roots, 


90  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

and  can  be  located  by  the  abrupt  growth  of  branches  from  the  stem 
(Fig.  84).  This  point  of  union  should  be  about  two  inches  under  the 
surface  when  the  bush  is  planted,  so  the  depth  to  plant  depends  upon 
the  height  of  the  bud  on  the  stem.  Of  course,  if  this  bud  is  seven  or 
eight  inches  high  it  is  not  advisable  to  bury  the  roots  so  deeply.  The 
object  is  to  induce  the  plant  proper  to  throw  out  its  own  roots,  and 
to  prevent  suckering  from  the  stock.  Plant  firmly  and  keep  the  sur- 
face soil  loose.  Should  the  soil  be  dry,  the  plants  should  be  thoroughly 
soaked,  but  this  is  not  often  necessary. 

If  pot  grown  plants  are  used  the  planting  season  is  lengthened  into 
Summer,  but  the  mere  fact  that  the  roots  have  been  forced  into  a  pot 
seems  to  suggest  unnatural  cramping,  and  field  grown  plants  are 
recommended  in  preference. 

PROTECTION    OF   ROSES 

There  are  many  methods  of  protecting  Roses  from  Winter  damage, 
but  the  most  effective  consists  of  mounding  the  earth  around  the  base. 
The  soil  is  scraped  from  between  the  bushes  and  heaped  up  around  the 
base  to  a  height  of  about  six  to  eight  inches  (Fig.  85).  This  covers  the 
stem  and  the  lowest  buds  of  all  the  main  shoots  and  eliminates  the 
possibility  of  water  collecting  and  standing  around  the  plant.  After 
the  surface  is  frozen  solid,  spread  long  manure,  hay  or  straw  among 
the  bushes  all  over  the  bed.  This  layer  should  not  be  too  heavy;  a 
one-  to  two-inch  thickness  is  plenty.  The  soil  is  thus  kept  from  al- 
ternately thawing  and  freezing.  In  Spring,  after  all  danger  of  hard 
frost  is  over,  and  before  the  sun  becomes  strong,  the  covering  can  be 
raked  off  and  the  soil  leveled.  Sometimes,  where  only  a  few  plants  are 
grown,  they  can  be  covered  with  inverted  boxes  or  peach  baskets. 
This  has  been  found  very  effective  in  cold  climates,  especially  if  the 
basket  is  filled  with  leaves. 

Climbing  Roses.  Young  Rose  vines  that  are  not  firmly  estab- 
lished on  trellises,  etc.,  can  be  laid  down  and  entirely  covered  with  soil 
and  then  manure.  Old  plants  do  not  need  this  protection  as  the 
support  itself  serves  to  shelter  the  plant  to  some  extent.  However, 
it  is  safest  even  in  the  case  of  the  old  vines  to  mound  up  the  soil  at 
the  base.  Sometimes  strips  of  burlap  are  nailed  or  fastened  across  the 
whole  plant,  hay  being  stuffed  inside. 

Standard  or  Tree  Roses.  The  only  sure  method  of  keeping 
these  alive  through  Winter  is  to  dig  on  one  side  of  the  roots  so  that 
the  whole  plant  can  be  bent  over.    Then  dig  a  shallow  trench  as  long 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN  91 

as  the  plant  is  high  and  bend  the  latter  over  into  the  trench  in  a  hori- 
zontal position.  It  can  be  pegged  down  and  then  covered  with  soil 
and  a  layer  of  manure  as  suggested  for  bush  Roses. 

Another  way  is  to  leave  the  "tree"  standing  and  cover  it  entirely 
with  hay  or  straw,  which  is  secured  by  winding  burlap  around  the 
stem  and  then  stuflBing  a  plentiful  supply  of  the  straw  among  and  over 
the  branches,  holding  it  in  place  by  winding  it  in  with  the  burlap. 
This,  however,  is  not  as  effective  as  the  former  method. 

PRUNING  ROSES 

While  soil  and  location  are  chiefly  responsible  for  the  general  vigor 
of  the  bush,  it  is  mainly  upon  the  method  of  pruning  that  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  flowers  depend.  To  fully  understand  the  correct  way 
to  prune  it  is  necessary  to  know  the  habits  of  the  Rose. 

Bush  Roses  are  divided  by  characteristic  habits  of  growth  into 
three  distinct  classes,  namely.  Shrub  Roses,  June  Roses,  and  Monthly 
Roses. 

Shrub  Roses,  such  as  the  Japanese  (Rosa  rugosa)  or  Briar  {Rosa 
ruhiginosa)  are  treated  just  like  ordinary  flowering  shrubs;  as  they 
should  not  be  included  in  a  formal  Rose  garden,  they  can  be  omitted 
here. 

June  Roses  (Hybrid  Perpetuals),  typified  by  General  Jack  and 
Frau  Karl  Druschki,  are  vigorous  growers  and  will  make  a  tall  bush 
in  one  season.  It  is,  however,  flowers  and  not  wood  that  is  desired, 
and  we  must  prune  with  this  aim  in  mind.  The  flowers  are  produced  on 
the  current  season's  growth — the  shoot  grows  and  during  June  the 
flower  buds  form  on  the  end  of  it.  Therefore,  in  order  to  produce 
young  shoots  the  old  (previous  year's)  wood  must  be  cut  back.  When 
the  bushes  are  planted  in  Autumn,  the  shoots  may  be  shortened  to 
prevent  excessive  swaying  by  the  wind.  The  real  pruning,  however, 
must  be  done  in  Springj  ust  as  the  top  buds  begin  to  swell,  which  is,  in 
most  cases,  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  March.  At  that  time,  cut 
away  entirely  all  dead  and  thin,  weakly  shoots,  leaving  about  three  to 
five  good,  strong  canes;  these  should  be  well  placed  to  form  the  skeleton 
of  a  nice  bush.  Then  prune  these  strong  shoots  back,  to  about  four 
to  six  eyes  (leaf  buds) — which  means  leaving  about  eight  to  twelve 
inches  of  the  old  shoot.  From  these  remaining  eyes  vigorous  shoots 
will  quickly  grow.  Now  to  secure  few,  but  large  blooms,  allow  these 
strong  shoots  to  grow  and  pinch  off  all  the  side  flower  buds — allowing 
only  one  or  two  to  develop  at  the  end.    All  the  nourishment  will  then 


92  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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Fig.  86. — Two  suggested  planting  plans  for  a  border.  Each  of  these  is  so  arranged  that  it 
can  be  adapted  to  almost  any  space— a  smaller  number  of  plants  being  used  in  each  sec- 
tion on  a  limited  area,  and  a  larger  number  in  a  more  extensive  garden.  These  plans 
can  be  used  separately  or  as  parts  of  a  continuous  border.  A  long  period  of  flowering  is 
covered  by  the  materials  used,  all  of  which  are  good  for  cutting  purposes 


go  toward  producing  an  unusually  large  flower  on  a  long  stem. 
To  produce  a  quantity  of  blooms,  as  is  generally  desired  in  a  Rose 
garden,  the  strong  shoots  arising  chiefly  from  the  base  of  the  plant 
should  be  pinched  back  occasionally.  This  will  induce  the  plant  to 
form  more  wood  (shoots)  and  attain  a  bushier  habit.  There  being 
more  young  wood,  the  result  is  naturally  a  greater  number  of  flowers. 

Monthly  Blooming  Roses  (Hybrid  Teas,  and  Teas)  such  as  La 
France  and  Caroline  Testout,  outrank  all  other  classes  for  color,  form 
and  fragrance,  and  as  a  result  the  modern  Rose  garden  is  composed 
of  practically  all  monthly  Roses. 

As  in  the  case  of  June  Roses,  these  may  be  shortened  when  planted 
in  Autumn,  but  the  Spring  pruning  should  be  more  severe.  Monthly 
Roses  are  more  irregular  in  growth  than  the  June  Roses,  but,  as  before, 
the  best  three  or  four  branches  or  shoots  should  be  selected  and  all 
others  removed.  These  shoots  should  then  be  cut  back  to  about  three 
or  four  eyes,  leaving  about  five  to  eight  inches  of  the  old  shoot.  En- 
deavor to  prune  so  that  the  uppermost  bud  points  outward,  so  as  to 
prevent  the  new  shoots  from  interlacing. 

The  size  and  quantity  of  the  flowers  can,  in  a  measure,  be  con- 
trolled in  the  same  manner  as  was  recommended  for  June  Roses. 

Climbing  Roses  (Wichuraiana  and  Multiflora),  such  as  Dorothy 
Perkins,  produce  their  flowers  on  last  year's  wood  or  rather  on  one- 
year-old  shoots,  so  that  the  method  in  pruning  must  be  different  from 
that  used  in  the  case  of  bush  Roses.    The  best  time  to  do  this  work  is 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN  93 

right  after  they  have  finished  flowering,  which  is  early  in  July.  At 
this  time  the  strong  young  shoots  will  be  seen  coming  up  from  the 
base,  and  as  these  are  the  ones  that  will  flower  the  following  year,  they 
should  be  encouraged.  The  old  branches  should  be  cut  away  entirely, 
or  at  least  to  a  good,  strong,  side  shoot;  this  will  divert  all  sustenance 
to  the  young  growths.  Where  cHmbing  Roses  are  used  for  covering 
pergolas,  arches  and  so  on,  it  is,  of  course,  not  necessary  to  prune  in 
this  way.  However,  the  plant  can  be  kept  young  and  vigorous  by 
occasionally  removing  the  very  old  wood. 

Baby  Ramblers  (Polyantha)  need  very  little  pruning,  but  in 
cutting  them  back  the  same  principles  apply  as  with  the  monthly 
Roses,  except,  that,  as  stated,  the  growths  need  only  a  little  shortening. 

SELECTION    OF   VARIETIES 

Because  of  the  constant  variation  to  which  any  Ust  of  "best  Roses" 
is  subjected  on  account  of  the  passing  of  old  and  unreliable  varieties, 
the  creation  of  new  ones,  and  the  effect  of  different  climates  and  soil 
conditions  on  different  sorts,  it  is  deemed  best  not  to  make  any  specific 
recommendations  as  to  varieties  here.  There  is  no  lack  of  helpful 
information  for  the  prospective  planner  or  planter,  however,  for  the 
complete  and  detailed  catalogs  of  the  leading  Rose  growers  and 
dealers,  the  several  volumes  of  the  "Rose  Annual"  of  the  American 
Rose  Society,  and  a  number  of  modern,  authoritative  cultural  text- 
books are  all  at  hand  to  solve  the  problem  of  what  kinds  and  varieties 
of  Roses  to  grow  under  any  particular  set  of  conditions. 

The  Perennial  or  Hardy  Border 

THE  hardy  border  may  be  either  simple  and  complete  in  itself, 
or  a  series  of  beds  arranged  in  a  geometrical  design  to  form  the 
formal  flower  garden.  In  each  instance  the  treatment  and  preparation 
of  the  beds  will  be  the  same. 

If  a  simple,  informal  border  is  desired,  it  should  be  so  placed  that  a 
good  view  of  it  can  be  had  from  the  principal  rooms  of  the  house,  and 
also,  if  possible,  from  the  front.  Sometimes,  by  informally  widening 
the  shrub  border,  the  "old-fashioned"  flowers  can  be  planted  in  front 
of  the  shrubs.  Thus  a  very  pleasing  effect  with  a  good  background  is 
obtained.  A  good,  dark  green  background,  not  necessarily  solid,  is  a 
big  asset  in  the  border.  However,  if  the  flower  bed  is  to  line  a  walk 
or  fence,  the  obvious  shape  is  long  and  narrow,  with  the  planting  in 
straight  line. 


94 


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THE  HARDY  BORDER  95 


WIDTH    OF   BEDS 

This  will  vary  according  to  the  size  of  the  place,  the  location  of 
the  beds,  and  their  length.  It  should  not  be  more  than  about  six  feet, 
otherwise  it  will  be  impracticable  to  cut  or  pick  flowers  without 
stepping  on  the  bed.  In  cases  where  they  can  be  reached  from  only 
one  side,  it  is  advisable  to  keep  the  width  down  to  a  maximum  of 
four  feet. 


The  walks  or  paths  in  the  perennial  garden  should  be  at  least 
three  feet  wide,  with  the  main  or  central  walk  still  wider.  The  choice 
of  material  and  type  of  construction  is  a  matter  of  personal  preference, 
but  a  turf  path,  as  in  the  Rose  garden,  gives  the  best  "ground"  as  a 
setting  for  the  flowers.  A  Box-bordered  brick  walk  is  also  in  harmony 
with  an  old-time  effect.  If  a  gravel  or  dirt  walk  is  used,  it  is  advisable 
to  leave  a  strip  of  turf  at  least  eighteen  inches  wide  between  the  bed 
and  the  walk. 

PREPARATION    OF  BEDS 

The  success  of  the  garden  or  border  depends  upon  the  preparation 
of  the  soil.  Many  perennial  roots  go  deep;  therefore  it  is  essential 
that  the  border  be  dug  to  a  depth  of  at  least  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
inches.  If  the  soil  is  at  all  impoverished,  enrich  it  by  adding  rotted 
manure  and  bonemeal.  If  drainage  is  necessary,  it  can  be  provided 
by  the  same  method  as  described  for  Rose  beds  (page  88).  The  surface 
should  be  quite  friable,  not  clammy,  and  the  whole  border  should  be 
allowed  to  settle  before  it  is  planted. 

PLANTING 

The  actual  operation  of  planting  is  taken  up  under  the  general 
heading  of  "Planting"  (page  67),  but  perhaps  it  would  be  well  to 
emphasize  the  importance  of  setting  the  plants  at  the  right  depth — 
neither  too  deep  nor  too  shallow.  Keep  the  crown  of  leaves  above 
the  ground  level,  but  be  sure  all  the  roots  are  well  covered. 

ARRANGEMENT 

The  design,  width  and  location  of  the  beds  and  the  succession  of 
flowers  should  be  considered  when  selecting  and  placing  the  plants. 
Color  harmony  is  also  a  most  important  point.  This  subject  (color) 
is  treated  more  fully  elsewhere  (page  81).    The  most  vigorous  and 


96 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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THE  HARDY  BORDER  97 

tallest  growing  kinds  should  not,  of  course,  be  planted  at  the  front, 
but  neither  should  all  the  tall  plants  be  in  the  background.  This  plan 
is  commonly  followed,  however,  with  the  result  that  the  "face"  of 
the  border  is  rather  fiat  with  no  interesting  combinations  as  to  habits 
of  growth.  A  much  better  effect  is  secured  by  allowing  the  "spiky" 
materials  (as  Foxgloves,  Larkspurs,  etc.)  to  stand  out  boldly  in  striking 
contrast  to  lower  growing  or  drooping  plants.  Even  along  the  edge 
this  effect  of  contrast  can  be  carried  out  on  a  smaller  scale.  Remember, 
too,  it  is  always  best  to  plant  in  little  colonies  or  clumps  to  give  a  mass 
effect;  furthermore,  the  cultivation  and  care  are  then  easier.  Possibly, 
a  Peony  occasionally  dotted  along  the  border  is  all  right,  but  as  a  rule 
such  "spot"  plants  should  be  omitted  from  the  flower  border. 

Many  perennials  have  beautiful  flowers  but  poor  foliage,  and 
therefore  should  not  be  largely  massed.  Such  kinds  should  be  ar- 
ranged in  small  groups  and  interspersed  with  some  other  perennials  or 
bulbs  that  will  flower  afterward  to  hide  or  improve  the  appearance 
of  the  poor  foliage. 

For  succession  of  bloom  some  bulbs  should  be  included;  this  sub- 
ject is  discussed  on  another  page  (page  98). 


The  purely  perennial  border  will  at  some  periods  during  the  season, 
be  practically  devoid  of  flowers,  or  will  permit  too  much  bare  soil  to 
be  seen.  To  overcome  this  we  can  rely  upon  annuals.  The  range  of 
selection  is  great,  making  it  an  easy  matter  to  plan  the  border.  With 
the  help  of  annuals  a  constant  succession  of  bloom  is  assured  and  the 
bed  is  always  full  of  plants  covering  Mother  Earth. 

With  this  object  in  view,  it  is  an  admirable  idea  to  have  a  supply 
of  annuals  growing  in  flats  (shallow  boxes)  or  pots,  that  can  be  trans- 
planted to  the  border  whenever  the  necessity  arises. 

Some  perennials  are  beautiful  for  a  week  or  so — while  the  flowers 
last — but  then  die  down,  leaving  bare  spaces.  Put  in  a  few  annuals, 
and  the  problem  is  solved. 

Some  of  the  hardy  plants  may  die  when  it  is  too  late  to  plant 
others.    Again,  use  annuals. 

Aside  from  this  use  of  annuals  in  supplementing  perennials,  some 
excellent  gardens  and  borders  are  made  up  entirely  of  annuals.  In 
such  cases  the  work  must  be  attended  to  each  year. 

Shrub  borders  can  be  greatly  improved  by  introducing  annuals 
along  the  front  to  lighten  the  sometimes  heavy,  monotonous  bank 
of  green  foliage. 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Add   6    baits   io  e<5ck  sacc- 
essive  circle 

Fig.  89.— Diagram  for  use  in  estimating  num- 
ber of  bulbs  required  for  planting  a  circular  bed 


TroiTN  cenier  9/^  ted   nsark  tKe  general  care 

ixumber/circka  bed  xs  bcouUm  The  protection  of  herbaceous 

perennials  has  already  been  dis- 
cussed, but  if  one  is  to  have  a 
successful  flower  border  or  gar- 
den some  attention  is  necessary 
during  the  growing  season.  The 
soil  should  be  constantly  worked 
so  that  the  surface  is  kept  loose 
and  neat. 

Some  kinds  of  plants  spread 
rapidly  and  must  be   kept   in 
check  by  division,  which  can  be 
done  either  in  Autumn  or  early 
Spring,    The  heavy,  tall  flower 
spikes  should  be  staked— before 
the  plant  actually  needs   sup- 
port— and  the  spike  supported  as  it  grows.     Then  there  are  always 
some  garden  pests  to  fight,  and  the  sooner  they  are  killed  the  better 
will  the  plants  thrive. 

Bulbs 
In  the  informal  flower  border,  it  is  advisable  to  omit  all  stiff 
growing  sorts  such  as  Hyacinths;  but  some  Spring-  and  Summer- 
flowering  bulbs  should  certainly  be  included  in  the  plan. 

Narcissi  and  Crocus  can  be  treated  as  perennials — being  left  in 
the  ground  from  year  to  year.  Sometimes  this  treatment  can  be  suc- 
cessfully apphed  to  Tulips,  but  any  choice  varieties  should  be  taken 
up  and  stored  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

While  these  bulbs  are  really  the  basis  of  the  Spring  floral  season, 
the  Summer  flowering  kinds  are  no  less  useful.  As  an  example,  the 
Gladiolus  and  the  Montbretia  can  be  cited — they  bloom  at  a  time  when 
the  display  of  flowers  in  the  border  is  at  a  low  ebb.  Such  bulbs  can 
be  interspersed  throughout  the  border,  clumping  them  around  the 
particular  perennials  that  will  be  through  blooming  by  the  time  these 
bulbs  are  coming  along. 


treatment  of  bulbs 
As  intimated  above,  bulbs  can  be  divided  into  separate  classes  for 
specific  treatment.    The  following  table  indicates  by  letter  to  which 
class  each  bulb  belongs,  and  the  treatment  required: 


BULBS 


99 


A .  Can  be  left  in  the  ground  year  after  year  and  regarded  simply 
as  herbaceous  perennials. 

B.  Should  be  dug  up  after  the  first  frost;  then  the  old  leaves 
should  be  cut  off  and  the  bulbs  cleaned,  and  allowed  to  dry  in  the 
sun  for  awhile.  Then  store  them  in  a  dry  place,  where  it  is  cold,  but 
does  not  freeze.  They  can  be  stored  in  dry  soil  or  sand,  or  simply 
stored  (best  in  single  layers)  as  they  are. 

C.  Should  be  dug  after  the  first  frost,  or  when  they  have  died 
down,  then  cleaned  and  allowed  to  dry  in  sun.  Leave  about  six  or 
eight  inches  of  the  dried  foliage  attached  to  the  bulb.  Tie  them  in 
small  bunches  (10  to  20  bulbs)  by  means  of  the  old  leaves  and  lay 
them  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

PLANTING  TABLE   FOR  BULBS 


Planting 


Depth 
Inches 


Height 
Inches 


Canna 

Crocus  (Spring)  . .  . 
Crocus  (Autumn) . . 
Crown  Imperials.. 
Daffodils 

Jonquils 

Poet's  Narcissus 

Dahlias 

Eremurus 

Gladiolus 

Hyacinths  (Dutch) 

Roman 

Grape 

Summer 

Iris,  English 

Spanish 

Montbretias 

Snowdrops 

Squills 

Tulips 


May 

Oct.-Nov. 
Spring 
Spring 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 
Spring 
Spring 
May 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 
Spring 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 
May 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 

Oct.-Nov. 


3-4 

3 

3 
4-5 
5-6 
5-6 

6 

6 
3-4 
2-4 
4-5 
4-5 

2 
3-5 

3 

3 
3-4 

2 

3 
3-4 


18-36 
2-4 
3-4 
5-6 
3-6 
3-6 
3-5 
18-36 
24-36 
6-12 
6 
6 
2-3 
6-12 
4-5 
4-5 
3-5 

3 
3-4 
5-6 


24-60 

3-5 

4-6 

24-36 

12-18 

12-18 

12-18 

36-72 

48-72 

24-42 

9-15 

9-15 

5-8 

24-36 

18-30 

18-30 

18-24 

3-5 

4-6 

15-30 


Aug. 
Mar. -Apr. 
Sep.-Oct. 
Aug.-Sep. 

Apr. 

Apr 

Apr. 
Sep.-Oct. 
Aug.-Sep. 
July-Aug. 
Apr.-May 
Apr. -May 
Apr.-May 
July-Aug. 

May 

May 
July-Aug. 
Mar. -Apr. 

Apr. 
Apr.-May 


A  or 


C  or  A 
C  or  A 

C 

A 

A 


The  Rock  Garden 

THIS  is  really  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  intensive  phases 
of  horticulture,  chiefly  because  the  plants  used  are  dwarf  and 
grow  naturally  in  a  limited  space.  The  native  habitat  of  these  rock 
plants  or  Alpines  is  at  a  high  elevation,  near  the  snow  line  on  the 
mountains,  among  the  rock  and  boulders  deposited  and  broken  by 
glaciers  and  other  natural  forces.  The  growing  season  in  these  loca- 
tions is  very  short,  and  to  withstand  such  climatic  and  soil  conditions 
these  little  plants  are  of  necessity  hardy  and  peculiarly  fitted  to  nestle 


100 


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S<2-ox,-i  otx  o/    T^ock.  MooTxd  -    SJLoT\<z,skoalcl 

always  tiildowrv  <2^LtK<2'  back  tjocatcKraiix 

Fig.  90. — Cross  section  through  a  well  prepared  rockery  or  part  of  a  rock  garden 

in  the  crevices  and  pockets  of  the  rocks  where  soil  is  deposited  and 
root  hold  can  be  found.  In  building  a  rock  garden,  natural  conditions 
must  be  duplicated  as  nearly  as  possible. 


The  rock  garden  is  the  farthest  extreme  from  the  formal  garden  and 
must  be  kept  quite  separate  from  that  vicinity  of  the  grounds  unless 
very  effectively  hidden.  The  ideal  spot  is  a  rugged,  picturesque  piece 
of  ground  where  the  natural  formation  or  deposit  of  rocks  and  boulders 
suggests  this  treatment.  Such  a  place  should  have  no  large  trees  ac- 
tually on  it,  as  the  roots  would  impoverish  the  soil,  but  some  shade 
from  the  hot  sun  is  desirable.  A  northern  or  northeasterly  exposure 
is  perhaps  best.  The  branches  of  any  adjacent  trees  should  not  over- 
hang the  garden  as  the  drip  will  rot  the  rock  plants. 


PREPARATION 

When  the  site  has  been  decided  upon  it  should  be  dug  deeply  and 
the  soil  enriched  and  lightened,  if  necessary,  with  grit  and  leafmold. 
The  soil  that  is  to  be  used  between  the  stones  for  the  plants  to  grow 
in,  should  be  specially  prepared.  A  mixture  of  light  loam  (four  parts), 
leafmold  (two  parts),  road-grit,  or  crushed  limestone  rocks  (one  part), 
and  rotten  manure  (two  parts)  is  most  satisfactory  (Fig.  90). 


THE  ROCK  GARDEN 


101 


ROCKS  AND   STONES 

The  best  effect  is  obtained  by  using  stones  from  the  place  itself  or  a 
nearby  source  as  their  color  and  formation  will  be  quite  naturalistic. 
Select  those  that  have  been  lying  on  the  surface  and  have  an  old, 
weather-beaten  appearance.  They  will,  of  course,  be  of  all  sizes;  the 
average  size  will  depend  on  the  size  of  the  rock  garden.  A  large 
garden  demands  large  stones,  but  even  in  a  small  garden  a  few  large 
st6nes  help  the  appearance  wonderfully.  It  is  also  wise  to  select  a 
type  of  stone  that  does  not  crumble  easily  and  then  keep  to  the  one 
kind  throughout  the  garden.  The  two  chief  classes  of  rock  are  igneous 
and  stratified  (Fig.  91).  The  former  is  recognized  by  the  irregular 
shape  of  its  fragments  and  the  fact  that  no  layers  are  seen  in  its 
formation — granite  is  a  good  example  of  this  type.  The  other  may 
be  recognized  immediately  by  the  parallel,  horizontal  lines,  which 
form  the  strata  of  the  stone.  These  are  seen  very  clearly  in  limestone 
rocks,  shales,  etc. 


The  two  important  styles  in  rock  gardening  are  the  outcome  of 
the  use  of  the  two  widely  different  forms  of  stone  described  above. 
If  the  stratified  stone  is  used,  the  rock  garden  should  be  arranged  to 
follow  that  stratification  throughout  the  garden  in  "uniform  irregu- 
larity." That  is,  the  one  _ 
plane  of  stone,  although 
broken  in  various  places, 
should  be  seen  right 
through  the  garden.  This 
does  not  mean,  however, 
that  all  stones  should  be 
laid  on  the  same  lines 
and  angle.  In  Nature, 
large  pieces  are  broken 
off  outcropping  ledges  by 
natural  forces,  with  the 
result  that  the  dislodged 
pieces  tumble  down  in 
any  position,  but  the 
unity  is  still  apparent  in 

the     stratification    and  ,  ^  -r-,        t 

cleavage.      In    buildmg  O 

the  rock  garden  this  ef-  Fig.  91.— The  two  chief  classes  of  rock 


Slr(3.Li  fied-  ^Lor^cz.  ■ 


102 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Fig.  92.— An  overhanging  rock  is  an  interesting  feature 

in  a  rock   garden.    This  cross  section  shows   how  it 

should  be  built  up 


feet  can  be  imitated  by 
arranging  smaller  pieces 
of  rock  at  the  foot  of  a 
sloping  rock  ledge  to  give 
the  effect  of  naturalness. 
Needless  to  say,  the  color 
and  general  formation  of 
the  small  rocks  must  be 
quite  similar  to  those  of 
the  ledge. 

Where  the  igneous  or 
non-stratified  stone  is 
used,  the  operation  is 
really  not  difficult,  but  just  as  pleasing  when  well  done.  There  is  a 
natural  formation  called  Tufa  stone,  apparently  the  work  of  some  sub- 
terranean agency,  which,  being  full  of  holes  (resembling  a  sponge)  is 
particularly  adapted  for  rock  garden  building  on  a  small  scale.  This 
stone  is  extremely  porous  and  irregular,  having  natural  pockets  that 
are  ideal  for  planting. 

BUILDING 

The  largest  stones  should  be  placed  at  the  base  and  form  the 
background;  in  their  arrangement  they  should  suggest  the  original 
cause  of  their  exposure — namely,  upheaval,  or  glacial  deposit. 

The  face  of  the  rockery  may,  in  the  same  garden,  range  from  a 
gentle  slope  to  almost  perpendicular;  in  some  instances,  more  par- 
ticularly in  large  gardens,  the  overhanging  rock  is  very  effective. 
The  construction  of  this  type  is  best  explained  by  an  illustration  (See 
Fig.  92).  It  will  be  seen  that  each  stone  is  effectively  tied  to  the  others 
and  all  appear  inherent  in  the  soil. 

Each  stone  should  slope  backward,  so  that  the  water  will  run 
in  toward  the  rockery  and  soak  the  soil  between  the  rocks.  As  each 
stone  is  laid,  ram  the  prepared  soil  in  every  crevice  and  pocket  so 
that  not  the  smallest  air  hole  is  left.  This  is  possible  only  by  building, 
stone  by  stone,  and  by  working  the  soil  into  the  crevices  with  a  stick. 

It  is  most  important  that  the  soil  between  the  stones  be  kept  moist, 
so  in  the  event  of  a  stone  overlapping  a  pocket  see  that  the  rain  will 
in  some  way  be  drawn  into  the  latter.  Any  settling  of  the  stones  will 
not  affect  their  stability  if  they  have  been  laid  correctly. 

The  rockery  is  best  built  by  sections.  First,  arrange  a  group  of 
various  sized  stones — really  a  miniature  rock  garden — then  start  on 


THE  ROCK  GARDEN 


103 


another  section,  repeating  in  a  different  formation  another  such 
group  and  making  a  consistent  chain  of  rocks,  or  one  large,  rocky  ledge. 
Thought  should  be  given  to  providing  access  to  all  parts  of  the 
rockery,  by  means  of  appropriate  paths.  The  best  style  is  simply  a 
trail  of  stones  with  a  more  or  less  flat  surface — worked  harmoniously 
in  with  the  scheme  and  planted  about.  These  paths  should  bring  one 
to  the  most  interesting  points.  The  central  or  main  path  can  be 
made  of  irregular  broken  flagstone,  crushed  stone,  or  gravel. 

No  set  rules  can  be  stipulated  as  to  arrangement,  hence  the  diffi- 
culty of  trying  to  explain  ideas.  The  best  way  to  gain  a  clear  con- 
ception of  this  matter  is  to  see  and  study  an  actual  example  either  in 
Nature  or  in  some  other  man-made  rockery. 

PLANTING 

Undoubtedly  the  greatest  charm  of  the  rock  garden  should  be  the 
effect  obtained  by  clothing  the  rock  faces.  Always  plant  in  little 
colonies  of  the  same  kind,  that  is,  set  half  a  dozen  or  so  plants  of  one 
variety  in  the  same  spot  in  the  garden.  Give  the  most  favorable  spots 
to  the  choicest  Alpine 
gems,  and  keep  the  larger, 
more  vigorously  growing 
sorts  away  from  their 
weaker  brothers.  Don't 
try  to  cover  all  the  rock- 
work,  rather  let  it  crop 
out  boldly  at  various 
spots.  Many  rock  plants, 
such  as  the  Saxifrages, 
have  a  leaf  growth  that 
forms  a  dense  rosette 
which  would  rot  if  water 
lodged  in  the  crown. 
Such  kinds  are  best 
planted  on  a  slant,  or 
even  vertically.  Pot 
grown  plants  are  best  if 

the  rockery  is  already  con-  ^  40,  7  1 

structed,  but  if  the  plant-  CorrcK=-L-   J<dool^  go  cJo^i\  xykero 
ingisdoneasthebuilding    ^^'^y  <3lwe.ys  f  md  soxrvc nsoistrirc. 
progresses,    field    grown  ^,'8-  93. -The  wrong  and  the  right  way  to  set  Alpme 
,  u     4.  J     plants  in  a  rock  garden.    Provide  deep  soil  pockets  to 

plants     are     best     used.  retain  moisture  and  harbor  the  plant  roots 


y  oat 


104 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


The   roots  can  then  be  laid  their  full  length  between  the  stones. 

By  interspersing  dwarf  evergreens  throughout  the  rock  garden 
an  all-year  effect  is  obtained,  and  the  pigmy  Spruces  and  Junipers  seem 
particularly  happy  in  such  a  location.  On  the  borders,  some  taller 
growing,  but  more  or  less  dense  shrubs  can  be  installed  as  a  back- 
ground and  to  give  some  height;  and  even  in  the  rockery  proper, 
some  of  the  more  compact  growers  will  relieve  any  flatness  and  lend 
an  appearance  of  age  to  the  planting. 

If  the  rock  garden  boasts  a  pool,  the  moisture-loving  plants  should 
be  found  in  that  vicinity;  in  fact  the  whole  affair  should  duplicate  a 
piece  of  Alpine  scenery. 

IRRIGATION 

As  previously  stated  it  is  most  important  that  the  soil  be  kept  moist. 
One  of  the  best  methods  of  assuring  this  condition  is  to  install  a  line 
of  small  (two-inch)  tile  about  one  foot  under  ground  at  the  head  or 
top  of  the  rock  garden,  and  connect  it  (by  means  of  rubber  hose) 
to  a  faucet  (Fig.  50,  page  47).  The  trench  in  which  the  pipe  is  laid 
should  be  dug  with  the  bottom  inclined  toward  the  garden,  and  a 
layer  of  crushed  stone  spread  in  it.  Then  the  tile  can  be  laid  and 
covered  with  stone  or  cinders.  This  insures  a  thorough  soaking  of 
the  soil  around  the  plant  roots  and  between  the  stones. 


Fig.  94. — Section  to  show  construction  details  of  a  small,  formal  pool  of  concrete.    Unless 

the  sides  of  the  hole  were  dug  accurately,  it  would  usually  be  necessary  to  brace  the  wall 

forms  on  the  outside  as  well  as  the  inside,  and  at  the  bottom  as  well  as  the  top 


WATER  GARDENS  105 

Water    Gardens 
pools  for  lilies  and  other  aquatics 

IT  IS  possible  for  any  flower  lover  to  grow  Water  Lilies.  All  that 
is  necessary  is  a  few  square  feet  of  water  surface  in  a  sunny  spot. 
For  the  smaller  garden,  one  can  cut  a  water  barrel  in  two  about 
eighteen  inches  from  the  bottom,  fill  it  two-thirds  full  of  rich  soil  and 
sink  it  in  the  ground  at  least  six  inches,  although  deeper  is  better. 
Plant  one  or  two  LiUes,  then  fill  with  water. 

The  next  water  garden  in  size  may  be  made  of  a  hogshead  (about 
six  feet  in  diameter).  Saw  in  half  (to  make  two  ponds);  sink  in  the 
ground  as  before;  and  plant  five  or  six  Lilies  in  each.  These  ponds 
should  be  flushed  with  a  garden  hose  at  least  once  a  week  to  prevent 
stagnation. 

Larger  pools  lend  themselves  to  a  wider  variety  of  treatment  as  to 
shape,  size  and  kinds  of  plants  used.  First  of  all  it  should  be  decided 
whether  the  pool  is  to  fit  into  a  formal  scheme,  in  which  case  it  should 
be  regular  in  outline;  or  is  to  serve  as  a  naturalistic  feature  and, 
is,  therefore,  to  be  treated  informally. 

FORMAL  POOLS 

For  a  small,  brick  pond  excavate  to  a  depth  of  about  two  and  one- 
half  feet,  curving  the  sides  to  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees. 
Lay  the  floors  first  and  then  the  sides,  covering  the  whole  with  a 
coating  of  cement.  Concrete  pools  are  made  in  practically  the  same 
manner  except  that  the  frost  line  must  be  considered  (See  details  in 
Fig.  94).    In  arranging  the  water  supply  for  such  a  pool,  it  is  found 


V«Tf  lo^ai' 


v/7m/j///{i// 


Fig.  95. — Cross  section  of  a  puddled  clay  pool  showing  construction  of  bottom  and  mar- 
gins, intake  and  overflow  pipes,  and  also  depths  of  soil  and  water  needed 


106 


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^ttlas  or  gra.' 


'ty.  0'Cfe>rT  <f;:i;>' 


96.- 


•3^B.TiriciAi-  Cj2.e:£.k.   Bud  • 

-Cross  section  of  an  artificial  creek  bed  or  informal  shallow  pool  in  which  the 
concrete  bottom  and  sides  are  hidden 


most  practical  to  simply  have  the  water  come  from  a  faucet  so  that 
it  may  be  turned  on  from  time  to  time  to  remove  any  scum  which  may 
accumulate  on  the  surface. 

The  construction  of  large  formal  pools  should  be  left  to  an  ex- 
perienced contractor  as  they  require  special  reinforcing  and  skilled 
workmanship. 


^.jl 


Sec-Tio^ 


% 


Pool-        SHONX/IMG- 


•A.MD  o^ 


IFJ-OW  PI  Pi.' 


Fig.  97.— Cross  section  of  portion  of  a  concrete  pool 

showing  method  of  combining  and  also  concealing  the 

drain  and  overflow  pipes 


INFORMAL  POOLS 

Ponds  made  entirely 
of  concrete  are  best 
adapted  only  to  the 
small,  formal  garden. 
The  most  economical 
method  of  construction 
for  the  informal  pool  is 
the  clay  puddUngproc- 
ess  in  which  an  im- 
pervious layer  is  made 
over  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  the  pool.  After 
deciding  upon  the  shape 
and  the  size,  excavate 
the  whole  to  a  depth  of 
about  three  feet  (Fig. 
95).  On  a  wooden  plat- 
form spread  a  wheel- 
barrow load  of  clay  and 
pulverize  it  to  pieces  no 


WATER  GARDENS 


107 


rTo   5  c.v</er 


CoiNsJLrocLioiN  •/Ariificio-l   Pool 
^■waterproof  n\oric>.T-  ot\  mniar 
aarfo.ce  o/'coi\creL<2.j 

Fig.  98.— Cross  section  of  an  attractively  edged  pool  of  concrete  with  a  supplementary, 
smaller  pool  and  waterfall  provided  at  one  end  for  added  effect 

larger  than  a  walnut.  By  adding  water,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  pound- 
ing with  a  wooden  maul  reduce  the  whole  to  a  putty-like  consistency; 
then  start  moistening  and  pounding  the  second  load,  etc.  Having  re- 
duced sufficient  clay  to  a  proper  consistency  spread  it  about  three  inches 
thick  over  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  pool,  beating  it  down  as  laid. 
In  treating  the  margins  of  such  a  pool  it  is  best  to  lay  rocks  in  the 
clay  down  the  bank  to  about  a  mean  water  level;  this  will  prevent  a 
gradual  washing  away  of  the  clay  at  the  water's  edge.  If  water  plants 
are  to  be  used  in  the  pool  put  in  a  layer  of  rich  soil  twelve  inches  to 
fifteen  inches  deep;  then  let  in  enough  water  to  cover  this  layer  about 
three  inches  deep  and  let  the  pond  stand  for  a  few  days  to  warm  up 
before  planting. 

PLANTING 

In  concrete  or  brick  pools  it  is  necessary  to  plant  in  some  sort  of 
a  receptacle,  either  fixed  or  movable,  the  size  ranging  from  one  by  two 
feet  to  two  by  four  feet  and  the  depth  from  ten  to  twelve  inches.  If 
these  pockets  are  made  of  brick,  do  not  cement  the  joints,  but  merely 
build  a  loose  wall.    Tubs  make  good  receptacles  in  which  to  plant. 


WINTERING 

Hardy  Water  Lihes  will  take  care  of  themselves,  and  natural  ponds 
may  remain  undisturbed.  The  more  tender  varieties  planted  in  loose 
tubs  may  be  removed  to  a  cool  cellar,  or,  if  they  cannot  be  removed, 
drain  off  the  water  and  cover  the  plants  with  hay,  leaves,  etc.,  and 
place  a  few  planks  over  the  top.  Really  tender  day  bloomers  are  quite 
difficult  to  winter  over,  and  unless  the  grower  understands  the  subject 
thoroughly  it  would  not  be  advisable  for  him  to  attempt  the  growing 
of  these  tender  sorts. 


108 


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MARGINAL  TREATMENT  OF  INFORMAL  POOLS 

Many  well  designed  and  well  constructed  pools  often  lack  proper 
treatment  of  their  bare  concrete  edges.  It  is  this  particular  portion 
that  really  needs  most  attention  as  it  will  conceal  much  of  the  hand- 
work of  man.  In  the  construction  of  the  informal  pools  shown  in 
Figs.  96  and  97  the  concrete  will  not  be  seen  at  all  if  properly  made. 
When  water-loving  plants  are  not  planted  along  the  margin,  sod 
should  be  used.  Make  the  sides  and  bottom  of  at  least  three  inches 
of  reinforced  concrete;  four  to  six  inches  is  better.  The  bottom  surface 
of  the  excavation  will  serve  as  a  form  for  the  pool.    See  that  the  outlet 

pipe  has  a  connection  at 
BrickCopiiN^  the  bottom  that  can  be 

unscrewed  so  that  the 
pool  may  be  drained 
(Fig.  97). 

There  is  always  a 
certain  charm  about  the 
noise  of  running  water, 
and  this  feature  may  be 
produced  by  constructing 
a  small,  additional  pool 
at  one  end  of  the  larger 
one  (Fig.  98).  If  Water 
Lilies  are  to  be  grown  in 
the  pool  let  only  a  small 
amount  of  water  run 
over  the  rocks,  as  the 
plants    do    not     thrive 


\^  icjrf  <zd^  is  desi  r<zd  • 


'^v^atz^tm^cni^do^^v«■r^t 


cz.  otnG  ^czizjz. 


Fig.  99.— Section  through  side  of  a  shallow  pool  to  show 
details  of  concrete  and  foundation  construction    and 
arrangement  of  brick  coping,  if  desired;  also  line  to  be  fol- 
lowed if  turf  margin  is  wanted  instead  of  coping 


where  water  is  too  active.    The  introduction  of  a  few  goldfish  will 
keep  the  water  rid  of  mosquitoes. 


COPING  FOR  FORMAL   POOLS 

Good  brick  laid  on  edge  makes  an  excellent  coping  for  formal 
pools  (Fig.  99).  Sandstone  or  limestone  of  uniform  thickness  laid  quarry 
face  also  makes  a  good  coping.  It  should  not  extend  over  three 
inches  above  the  surrounding  surface — the  closer  it  is,  the  better. 

Where  a  sod  edge  is  desired,  the  pool  should  be  constructed  as 
shown  in  Fig.  96.  This  arrangement  will  provide  ample  soil  in  which 
to  grow  turf  right  up  to  the  water's  edge. 


GARDEN  ACCESSORIES 


109 


Fig.  100.— Sketch  or  elevation  of  a  simple  rustic  garden  seat  with  shelter 


Garden    Accessories 


AS  AN  ornament  for  the  garden  there  is  nothing  better  than 
the  sundial.  Although  sundial  time  and  clock  time  do  not  agree 
except  on  four  days  during  the  year  (namely,  June  15th,  September 
15th,  December  14th,  and  March  15th),  they  are  certainly  close 
enough  to  permit  the  dial  to  serve  its  real  purpose  in  the  garden. 

There  are  two  kinds  of 
sundials,  horizontal  and  per- 
pendicular, the  latter  being 
affixed  to  the  side  of  a  build- 
ing or  wall  and  therefore  not 
so  often  of  use  in  the  garden. 
The  dial  proper  is  mounted 
•on  a  pedestal,  usually  of  stone 
or  marble,  and  must  be  abso- 
lutely level,  with  the  gnomen 
or  shadow-casting  piece  point- 
ing to  true  north.  The 
upper  surface  of  the  gnomen 
must  form  an  angle  with  the 
dial  that  shall  be  the  same 
number  of  degrees  as  the 
degree    of     latitude    for     the  Fig.  101.— Suggested  plan  of  a  summer  house 

place  in  which  the  dial    is  to  with  open  sides,  especially  suited  for  a  high 

,  J  location  where   views    can    ba    had    in    all 

be  used.  directions 


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i^        1^      1     V     r. 


H-  0  a  s  n 


Gar  a  (3  3^ 


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ODD      \                            yAl     ODD 
D D o     y  'J  J    .D Q g 


TeT\i\i5 

C  curl 

(For  caption  see  facing  page) 


GARDEN  ACCESSORIES  111 

There  are  a  number  of  appropriate  settings  in  the  garden  for  the 
sundial.  It  may  be  set  at  the  end  of  a  garden  walk,  as  a  feature  located 
on  some  axis  of  the  formal  garden,  or  on  the  lawn  of  the  informal 
garden  where  it  can  be  seen  from  some  prominent  room  and  window 
of  the  house.  For  practical  use  the  sundial  must  always  be  set  in  the 
open  where  scarcely  any  shade  will  fall  on  it.  The  pedestal  for  the 
dial  may  be  made  of  almost  any  solid  material,  from  classic  marble 
to  a  pile  of  field  stone,  but  it  must  be  solid,  as  any  tilting  will  throw  the 
gnomen  off  the  correct  angle. 

SEATS 

A  seat  in  the  garden  is  as  important  as  a  chair  in  the  house.  Seats 
vary  in  importance  from  the  simple  wooden  bench  to  the  elaborate 
semi-circular  exedra  as  found  in  the  typical  Italian  gardens.  A  seat 
must  harmonize  with  the  design  of  the  garden ;  that  is,  one  would  not 
place  a  rustic  or  rough  wood  seat  in  a  formal  garden.  The  seat  should 
blend  in  with  its  surroundings,  yet  serve  a  practical  use. 

One  important  consideration  in  the  choice  of  a  material  for  the 
garden  seat  is  its  lasting  qualities,  for  this  furniture  is  exposed  to  all 
the  outdoor  elements.  This  is  why  we  find  so  many  garden  seats  made 
of  stone.  Stone  seats  may  not  be  as  comfortable  as  wooden  ones,  yet 
if  considerable  care  and  attention  is  not  given  the  wooden  seat  from 
year  to  year,  it  will  soon  rot  and  fall  to  pieces.  About  the  best  material 
for  wooden  seats  is  Red  Cedar  with  the  bark  left  on;  but  all  parts 
that  come  in  contact  with  the  ground  should  be  given  a  coat  of  some 
preservative,  such  as  creosote. 

Seats  in  the  garden  may  be  placed  at  a  number  of  good  positions, 
but  we  usually  find  them  in  the  shade  where  a  pleasing  view  of  the 
garden  may  be  seen  while  one  is  resting.  They  are  often  designed 
with  a  shelter  overhead,  or  built  in  a  circular  fashion  about  some 
old  tree. 

Today  it  is  not  a  difi&cult  matter  to  purchase  almost  any  type  and 
design  of  garden  seat  from  concerns  that  make  a  specialty  of  such  work. 

SUMMER   HOUSES 

Summer  houses  range  in  type  from  the  simple  shelter  hut  of  the 
cottage  garden  to  the  classic  garden  temple.     One  may  enjoy  the 

Fig.  102.— Three  ways  in  which  a  pergola  can  be  (as  it  always  should  be)  made  useful  as 

well  as  ornamental.     In  the  upper  plan  it  connects  the  dwelling  with  another  building; 

in  the  center  plan  it  forms  a  background  enclosing  a  portion  of  the  garden;  in  the  lower 

plan  it  is  part  of  a  rest-house  or  shelter 


J12 


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•Circular -pc^rg^ole^- 


Fig.  103.— A  circular  pergola,  though  rather  unusual,  can  be  used  as  the  central  fea- 
ture of  a  lawn  or  garden 


garden  doubly  well  if  somewhere  near  is  a  shady  seat  beneath  a  vine- 
covered  summer  house  wliere  one  may  rest  and  drink  in  the  atmos- 
phere of  repose  and  beauty  of  the  garden.  Almost  all  home  grounds, 
either  large  or  small,  have  a  place  of  advantage  for  a  summer  house. 
If  not  in  the  garden  proper  it  may  be  at  some  vantage  point  overlooking 
the  garden.  Such  a  structure  should  not  be  placed  where  there  is  no 
excuse  for  it,  nor  should  it  predominate  in  the  landscape.    Like  other 


GARDEN  ACCESSORIES 


113 


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UUUUUUUULIU 

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nnnnnnnnnn 
^nnnnnnnnnn 
^^nnnnnnnn 


nnui 

nnnr 

nnnr 

nnni 

nnni 

nnni 


•ELLYATIOA   o/^SlMGLL    POST    PLRGoLa*    i 

Fig.  104.— Elevation  of  a  single-post  pergola  showing  relation  of  trellis  or  screen  to  the 
surmounting  details 


garden  accessories  it  should  harmonize  in  design  and  construction  with 
its  surroundings.  Associated  with  the  ideal  summer  house  are  benches, 
tables  and  seats  to  make  it  comfortable  and  so  that,  if  desired,  after- 
noon teas  may  be  served  there.  A  summer  house  on  a  hillside  or 
ledge  overlooking  the  surrounding  country  may  be  found  especially 
enjoyable  (Figs.  100  and  101). 

If  made  of  wood  it  should  be  of  some  sort  that  will  last,  such  as 
Red  Cedar,  Locust,  Larch  or  Cypress.  When  Cedar  logs  are  used  to 
construct  a  house  of  rustic  design,  treat  them  with  kerosene  to  preserve 
the  bark  and  protect  it  against  the  ravages  of  boring  insects. 

If  the  garden  adjoins  the  residence  and  a  summer  house  is  built  as  a 
feature  therein,  it  should  conform  to  the  architecture  of  the  house. 
If  the  garden  house  has  but  one  open  side  it  should  face  the  south 
and  have  a  pleasant  outlook  in  that  direction.  The  floor  may  consist 
of  tile,  brick,  slate  or  flagstone  and  be  constructed  in  the  same  manner 
as  a  walk  of  the  same  material.  If  the  summer  house  is  used  as  a 
place  to  serve  tea  or  other  refreshments,  it  should  have  a  tight  roof, 
as  leaves,  twigs,  etc.,  from  overhanging  trees  will  fall 'through  an  open 
superstructure. 

THE   PERGOLA 

Originally,  the  pergola  was  used  only  to  span  a  walk  extending 
between  two  points,  but  now  we  find  it  employed  as  a  shelter,  as  a 
central  motif,  as  a  feature  at  the  far  end  of  formal  gardens,  etc.  (Figs, 


114 


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GARDEN  ACCESSORIES 


115 


102  and  106).  Porch  pergolas  are  used  over  seats,  doorways,  and 
gateways.  The  single-post  pergola  (Figs.  104  and  105)  is  used  in 
most  cases  for  a  screen  effect,  much  as  a  hedge  might  be  used,  between 
the  flower  garden  and  kitchen  garden  (Fig.  106). 

Pergolas  may  be  made  of  a  variety  of  materials  and  in  numerous 
designs.  The  columns  may  be  made  of  stone,  brick,  wood,  or  cobble- 
stone and  the  whole  designed  either  as  a  dignified  piece  of  architecture 
which  would  fit  well  into  a  formal  garden,  or  quite  informally,  as 
in  the  case  of  rustic  work.    The  upright  columns  should  be  placed 


S]nGLL-  POST  PERGOLA  ■  /AAY  •  BH  •  U5ED  -TO-in- 
CLOSI,  A- BACK- YARP- GA&DIJn- o-^rOETAAL;  GAl^DLM- 


Fig.  106.— Plan  and  elevation  showing  how  a  single-post  pergola  can  be  used  to  enclose 
a  garden,  especially  when  used  in  connection  with  a  brick  wall  or  a  sunken  garden  area 


116 


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DnnnnL 

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Fig.  107— Elevation  for  a  simple  but  graceful  garden  gate  surmounted  by  an  arch  over 
which  vines  may  be  allowed  to  grow.    Compare  Fig.  1 


about  eight  feet  apart,  both  lengthwise  and  transversely,  and  should 
be  between  eight  and  nine  feet  high  over  all.  If  the  structure  spans  a 
grass  walk,  it  is  important  that  vines  should  not  be  grown  so  close  to- 
gether as  to  cast  a  dense  shade,  for  this  would  injure  the  grass.  In 
such  a  case,  place  the  rafters  about  four  feet  apart.  The  more  formal 
and  dignified  pergolas  have  wooden  columns,  usually  of  Cypress  and 
of  classic  design,  which  are  given  three  or  four  coats  of  paint  to  prevent 
weathering.  The  columns  must  stand  on  a  stone  or  concrete  founda- 
tion (Fig.  105). 

In  constructing  a  rustic  pergola,  Red  Cedar  or  Locust  is  recom- 
mended, and  all  parts  that  come  in  contact  with  the  ground  should  be 
treated  with  a  preservative  mixture  such  as  creosote.  This  also  applies 
to  the  intersection  of  posts  and  rafters  where  moisture  is  likely  to 
collect. 

Simple  uprights  or  posts  need  not  be  as  large  as  columns,  but  appear 
to  best  advantage  when  about  eight  inches  in  diameter  at  the  ground. 

Where  a  pergola  is  placed  on  a  steep  incline,  the  roof  should  be 
made  in  sections  on  several  planes;  if  the  slope  is  slight,  only  one  plane 
is  necessary. 

If  the  pergola  does  not  span  a  regular  walk  it  is  well  to  give  it  a 
floor  of  either  brick,  stepping  stones,  tile,  or  concrete,  in  which  case  the 
posts  may  rest  on  this  flooring. 


GARDEN  ACCESSORIES 


Rafters  are  usually  placed  about  two  feet  apart  and  vine  strips  on 
top  about  a  foot  apart.    White  is  the  universal  color  for  the  pergola; 

^ Q" ^       it  seems  to  bring  out   the  color  of  vines 

I  {       and  flowers  by  contrast. 


n 


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^=^~- — C&P'  105CJ  - ] 4  pir\e 
\nc5  rrvoald 


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•^T\ecH  mould 


,n^ 


Fig.  108.— End  elevation  of  arch  shown  in  Fig. 

108,  to  show  construction  and  supply  the  names 

of  important  parts 


SUGGESTED  PERGOLA   SPECIFICATIONS 

Foundation.    Excavate  twenty-four  to 
thirty-six  inches  (or  six  inches  below  frost 
line),  and  over  a  sufficient  area  to  allow 
all  cement  to  extend  one  inch  beyond  the 
wood  that  it  supports.    Cover  the  bottom 
with  six  inches  of  cin- 
ders and  pack  firmly. 
Fill  with  a   1-2^-5 
concrete    mixture    to 
the  level  of  the  ground. 
A  one-half  inch  by  18 
inch  iron  anchor  rod 
with  a  one-half  inch  plate  fastened  to  the 
bottom  end  is  embedded  in  the  concrete  to  a 
depth  of  six  inches. 

Columns.  These  are  best  made  of  Cypress* 
seven  and  a  half  to  eight  feet  in  height  with  a 
base  diameter  of  ten  inches.  Set  them  eight 
feet  apart  on  centers.  Each  column  is  held 
firmly  by  an  anchor  rod  fastened  by  means  of 
a  bolt  drawn  down  on  a  one-quarter-inch  top 
plate  (Fig.  105). 

Overhead.  The  plate  should  be  of  two 
two-by-six  or  three-by-eight-inch  timbers  set 
on  edge,  the  outside  faces  being  aligned  with 
the  side  of  the  columns.  They  may  be  closed 
by  boxing  top  and  bottom  with  one-inch 
boards.  Plate  and  rafter  ends  are  cut  in  same 
design.     Rafters   are   made    of 

two-by-four-inch  pieces  set  on 

edge  and  fastened  to  the  plate 
with  angle  irons. 

Finish.     If  the  structure  is 
to  be  stained,  use  a  good  preserv- 


118  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

ative  stain,  followed  by  two  coats  of  boiled  linseed  oil  thinned  with 
turpentine.  If  it  is  to  be  painted,  use  three  coats  of  outside  white, 
allowing  twenty-four  hours  for  drying  between  each  two  coats 

Columns  or  uprights  constructed  of  brick  should  have  bases  and 
caps  of  either  cut  stone  or  brick  laid  on  their  sides.  There  should  be  a 
quarter-inch  projection  at  the  bottom,  but  the  caps  should  be  flush 
with  sides  of  columns  at  the  top.  Stucco  columns  may  be  built  on 
tile;  these  have  proved  economical  and  substantial.  They  should  be 
built  on  stone  or  concrete  foundations  projecting  beyond  the  tile. 

If  the  pergola  is  to  have  a  floor,  it  should  be  constructed  with  the 
idea  of  permanency.  The  foundation  for  a  tile,  brick,  or  concrete 
floor  should  be  at  least  six  inches  of  cinders.  On  top  of  this  is  placed 
four  inches  of  concrete  (1-23^-5  mixture).  For  brick  or  tile  floors, 
place  on  this  a  one-inch  cushion  of  bar  sand.  If  cement  is  used  it  is 
best  to  tint  it  by  using  either  lamp  black  or  red  mortar  stain  applied 
to  the  finish  coat.  Cement  paving  should  have  expansion  joints  at 
frequent  intervals  to  prevent  cracking.  A  good  looking  cement  floor 
is  made  in  small  squares  to  resemble  tile. 


The  arch  is  used  only  to  span  a  path.  It  may  be  made  of  wood  or 
of  iron,  the  latter  being  more  durable,  but  not  so  pleasing  until  en- 
veloped by  vines.  An  arch  without  a  vine  lacks  completeness.  If  the 
arch  is  intended  to  span  a  wide  and  much  used  path  or  walk,  it  should 
be  made  heavy  and  substantial  looking.  Arches  that  span  narrow 
garden  paths  may  be  simple  in  design  and  construction  (See  Figs.  1, 
107  and  108  ). 


m 

m 


A  SELECTED  PLANT  LIST  FOR  GENERAL  USE 


Any  of  the  following  plants  will  succeed  under  ordinary  conditions,  that  is 
to  say,  in  fairly  good  garden  soil  where  it  is  not  wet  nor  very  dry,  and  in  a 
location  which  gets  a  fair  amount  of  sunlight.  Many  of  the  varieties  mentioned 
in  this  list  will  also  be  found  recommended  elsewhere  for  planting  under 
special  conditions  where  they  will  succeed  as  well  as  for  general  purposes. 
The  object  of  including  them  here  is  to  give  a  wider  choice  to  the  fortunate 
planter  who  has  no  unusual  conditions  to  contend  with.  This  list  will  be  found 
useful  also  for  reference  as  to  the  size  of  plants  at  maturity. 


Large  Trees  (75  to  150  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Common  Name.         Botanical  Name 
Norway  Maple,  Acer  platanoides. 
Purple-leaved  Maple.  Acer  platanoides 

Schwedleri. 
Silver  Maple,  Acer  dasycarpum. 
Red,  Scarlet,  or  Swamp  Maple,  Acer  rubrum 
Sugar  Maple,  Acer  saccharutn. 
Horse  Chestnut  (Buckeye),  ^sculus  Hippo- 

castanum. 
Tree  of  Heaven,  Ailanthus  glandulosa. 
White  Birch,  Betula  alba. 
Cherry  Birch,  Betula  lenta. 
Yellow  Birch,  Betula  lutea. 
Paper  Birch,  Betula  papyrifera. 
Red  Birch,  Betula  rubra. 
Chestnut,  American,  Castanea  americana. 
Western  Catalpa,  Catalpa  speciosa. 
Wild  Black  Cherry,  Cerasus  serotina. 
American  Beech,  Fagus  ferruginea. 
European  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica. 
Purple-leaved  Beech  (Copper  Beech).  Fagus 

sylvatica  purpurea. 

White  Ash,  Fraxinus  americana. 
Honey  Locust,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 
Black  Walnut,  Juglans  nigra. 
European  Larch,  Larix  europsea. 
Tamarack,  Larix  leptolepis. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Tulip    Tree    (Tulip    Poplar).    Liriodendron 

tulipifera. 
Chinese  Cork  Tree,  Phellodendron  amurense. 
Buttonwood     (Sycamore.     Oriental     Plane), 

Platanus  orientalis. 
Lombardy  Poplar,  Populus  nigra  fastigiata. 
White  Oak,  Quercus  alba. 
Swamp  White  Oak,  Quercus  bicolor. 
Turkey  Oak,  Quercus  Cerris. 
Scarlet  Oak,  Quercus  coccinea. 
Mossy  Cup  Oak,  Quercus  macrocarpa. 
Pin  Oak,  Quercus  palustris. 
Red  Oak,  Quercus  rubra. 
Chestnut  Oak,  Quercus  Prinus. 
Black  Oak,  Quercus  tinctoria. 
Black  Locust    (Flowering   Locust).    Robinia 

pseudacacia. 
Maidenhair  Tree  (Gingko),  Gingko  biloba. 
Weeping  Willow,  Salix  babylonica. 
White  Willow,  Salix  alba. 
Thurlow's  Willow,  Salix  elegantissima. 
Silver  Linden,  Tilia  tomentosa  (argentea). 
European  Linden,  Tilia  vulgaris. 
American  Elm  (White  Elm),  Ulmus americana. 
Scotch  Elm,  Ulmus  scabra. 
English  Elm.  Ulmus  campestris. 


Large  Trees  (75  to  100  feet) 


EVERGREEN 


Common  Name.         Botanical  Name. 
Balsam  Fir.  Abies  balsamea. 
Nikko  Fir,  Abies  brachyphylla. 
White  Fir,  Abies  concolor. 
White  Spruce,  Picea  alba. 
Norway  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa. 
Black  Spruce,  Picea  nigra. 
Eastern  Spruce,  Picea  orientalis. 
Servian  Spruce,  Picea  Omorika. 
Colorado  Spruce,  Picea  pungens. 
Colorado  Blue  Spruce,  Picea  pungens  glauca. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Koster's  Blue  Spruce,  Picea  pungens  Kosteri. 
Douglas  Spruce,  Pseudotsuga  Douglasii. 
Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austriaca. 
Bull  Pine.  Pinus  ponderosa. 
White  Pine.  Pinus  Strobus. 
Scotch  Pine,  Pinus  sylvestris. 
Red  Pine,  Pinus  resinosa. 
Pitch  Pine,  Pinus  rigida. 
Hemlock.  Tsuga  canadensis. 


]20 


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PLANTS  FOR  GENERAL  USE 


121 


Medium  Sized  Trees  (50  to  75  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Buckeye,  ^Esculus  glabra. 
Alder,  Alnus  glutinosa. 

Cutleaf  Weeping  Birch,  Betula  alba  laciniata. 
American  Birch,  Betula  populifolia. 
Hornbeam,  Carpinus  americana. 
Indian  Bean,  Catalpa  bignonioides. 
Kadsura  Tree,  Cercidiphyllum  japonicum. 
Hackberry  (Nettle  Tree),  Celtis  occidentalis. 
Double   White    Flowering    Cherry,    Cerasus 

avium  plenum. 
Japanese  Flowering  Cherryi  Cerasus  sinensis 

rosea. 
Yellow  Wood,  Cladrastis  tinctoria. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Weeping  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica  pendula. 
Kentucky  Coffee  Tree,  Gymnocladus  cana- 


Varnish  tree,  Koelreuteria  paniculata. 
Sweet  Gum,  Liquidambar  stryaciflua. 
Cucumber  Tree,  Magnolia  acuminata. 
Umbrella  Tree,  Magnolia  tripetala. 
Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  sylvatica. 
Carolina  Poplar,  Populus  caroliniana. 
Pyramidal  Oak,  Quercus  fastigiata. 
Laurel-leaved  Willow,  Salix  pentandra. 
Yellow  Bark  Willow,  Salix  vitellina. 
Sassafras,  Sassafras  officinale. 


Medium  Sized  Trees  (20  to  40  feet) 


EVERGREEN 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Spanish  Fir,  Abies  Pinsapo. 
Eastern  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis. 
American  Holly,  Ilex  opaca. 
Chinese  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis. 
Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 
Blue  Virginian  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana 

glauca. 
Schott's  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana  Schottii. 
Swiss  Stone  Pine,  Pinus  cembra. 
Obtuse-leaved  Cypress,  Retinispora  obtusa. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Pea-fruited  Cypress,  Retinispora  pisifera. 
Golden     Pea-fruited     Cypress,     Retinispora 

pisifera  aurea. 
Plumed  Japan  Cypress,  Retinispora  plumosa. 
Golden  Japan  Plumed  Cypress,  Retinispora 

plumosa  aurea. 
Japanese  Tree  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata. 
American  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis. 
Pyramidal  Arborvitae,  Thuya  pyramidalis. 


Small  Trees  (15  to  30  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Common  Name.         Botanical  Name. 
Tartarian  Maple,  Acer  tatarica. 
European  Cork  Maple,  Acer  campestre. 
Box  Elder,  Acer  Negundo. 
Mountain  Maple,  Acer  spicatum. 
Japanese  Maple,  Acer  polymorphum. 
Hercules'  Club,  Aralia  spinosa. 
European  Hornbeam,  Carpinus  betulus. 
Japanese  Catalpa,  Catalpa  Kaempferi. 
Bird  Cherry,  Cerasus  Padus. 
Red  Bud  (Judas  Tree),  Cercis  canadensis. 
Japanese  Dogwood.  Cornus  Kousa. 
White  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida. 
Pink  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida  rubra. 
Scarlet  Thorn,  Crataegus  coccinea. 
Washington  Thorn,  Crataegus  cordata. 
English  Hawthorn,  Crataegus  Oxyacantha. 
Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  crus-galli. 
Common  Haw,  Crataegus  mollis. 
Orange  Haw,  Crataegus  punctata. 
Fern-leaf  Beech,  Fagus  asplenifolium. 
Flowering  Ash,  Fraxinus  Ornus. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Snowdrop  Tree .  Halesia  tetraptera. 
Sweet  Bay,  Magnolia  glauca. 
Soulange's  Magnolia,  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 
Sorrel  Tree,  Oxydendron  arboreum. 
Flowering  Peach,  Prunus  persica. 
Purple-leaf  Plum,  Prunus  Pissardi. 
Hop  Tree,  Ptelea  trifoliata. 
Siberian  (Zrab,  Pyrus  baccata. 
Scented  Crab,  Pyrus  coronarius. 
Flowering  Crab,  Pyrus  floribunda. 
Bechtel's  Crab,  Pyrus  ioensis  Bechtelii. 
Parkmann's  Crab,  Pyrus  Parkmannii. 
Chinese  Crab,  Pyrus  spectabilis. 
Smooth  Sumach,  Rhus  glabra. 
Pussy  Willow,  Salix  discolor. 
Rosemary  Willow,  Salix  rosmarinifolia. 
Goat  Willow,  Salix  caprea. 
Chinese  Lilac,  Syringa  pekinensis. 
Japanese  Tree  Lilac,  Syringa  japonica. 
American  Mountain  Ash,  Sorbus  americana. 
European  Mountain  Ash,  Sorbus  aucuparia. 


Tall  Shrubs  (8  to  10  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 

Common  Name      Botanical  Name 
False  Indigo,  Amorpha  fruticosa. 
Barberry,  Berberis  Gagnepainii. 
Allspice  (Sweet  Shrub),  Calycanthus  floridus, 
Siberian  Pea  Tree,  Caragana  arborescens. 
Japanese  Judas  Tree,  Cercis  japonica. 
White  Fringe,  Chionanthus  virginicus. 
Bladder  Senna,  Colutea  arborescens. 
Red-twig  Dogwood.  Cornus  alba. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Alternate-leaved   Dogwood,   Cornus  alterni- 

folia. 
Cornelian  Cherry,  Cornus  mas. 
Hazel,  Corylus  Avellana. 
Purple  Hazel,  Corylus  Avellana  purpurea. 
Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  foveolata. 
Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  moupinensis. 
Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  hupehensis. 


122 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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PLANTS  FOR  GENERAL  USE 


123 


TALL  SHRUBS — continued 


^     Common  Name  Botanual  Name 

White  Deutzia,  Deutzia  crenata. 
Pink  Deutzia,  Deutzia  Pride  of  Rochester. 
Waterer's  Deutzia,  Deutzia  Waterii. 
Oleaster,  Elaeagnus  angustifolia. 
Burning  Bush,  Euonymus  atropurpurea. 
Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  europaeus. 
Pearl  Bush,  Exochorda  grandiflora. 
Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  intermedia. 
Witch  Hazel,  Hamamelis  virginica. 
Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  syriacus. 
Sea  Buckthorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides. 
Chinese  Witch  Hazel,  Hamamelis  mollis. 
Spice  Bush,  Laurus  Benzoin. 
Amur  River  Privet,  Ligustrum  amurensis. 
Ibota  Privet,  Ligustrum  Ibota. 
Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgare. 
Californian  Privet.  Ligustrum  ovalifolium. 
Ruprecht's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Ruprech- 

tiana. 
Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 
Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  coronarius. 
Large-flowered   Mock  Orange,   Philadelphus 

coronarius  grandiflorus. 
Gordon's   Mock   Orange,   Philadelphus  Gor- 

donianus. 
Dwarf  Buckeye,  Pavia  macrostachya. 
Red  Choke  Berry,  Pyrus  arbutifolia. 
Prairie  Rose,  Rosa  setigera. 
Cathay  Rose,  Rosa  multiflora  cathayensis. 
Smoke  Bush  (Purple  Fringe),  Rhus  cotinus. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Stag's  Horn  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina. 
Common  Elder,  Sambucus  canadensis. 
Golden  Elder,  Sambucus  canadensis  aurea 
Aitchinson's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Aitchinsonii. 
Lindley's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Lindleyana. 
Pink  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Billardii. 
Ninebark,  Spiraea  opulifolia. 
Golden  Ninebark,  Spiraea  opulifolia  aurea 
Bladder  Nut,  Staphylea  colchica. 
Japanese  Storax,  Styrax  japonica. 
Hungarian  Lilac,  Syringa  Josikaea. 
Rouen  Lilac,  Syringa  rothomagensis. 
Persian  Lilac,  Syringa  persica. 
Late-flowering  Lilac,  Syringa  villosa. 
Common  Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 
Russian  Lilac,  Syringa  Wolfii. 
Tamarisk,  Tamarix  africana. 
French  Tamarisk,  Tamarix  gallica. 
Tamarisk,  Tamarix  odessana. 
Arrow  Wood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 
Wayfaring  Tree,  Viburnum  lantana. 
Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 
High-bush  Cranberry,  Viburnum  Opulus. 
Guelder  Rose,  Viburnum  Opulus  sterile. 
Black  Haw,  Viburnum  prunifolium. 
Weigela,  Weigela  rosea. 
Many-flowered  Weigela,  Weigela  floribunda. 
Yellow  Weigela,  Weigela  lutea. 
Red  Weigela,  Weigela  Abel  Carriere. 


Tall  Shrubs  (8  to  10  feet) 


EVERGREENS 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name. 

Japanese  Holly,  Ilex  crenata. 
Common  Juniper,  Juniperus  communis. 
Irish  Juniper,  Juniper  hibernica. 
Thread-branched  Cypress,  Retinisporafilifera. 
Golden   Thread-branched    Cypress,    Retinis- 

pora  filifera  aurea. 
Veitch's  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  SQuar- 

rosa  Veitchii. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Great  Laurel,  Rhododendron  maximum. 
Tree  Box,  Buxus  arborescens. 
Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  album 

elegans. 
Sitka  Spruce,  Thuya  Standishii. 
Golden  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis  lutea. 
Siberian  Arborvitae,  Thuya  sibirica. 


Medium  Shrubs  (5  to  8  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

June  Berry,  Amelanchier  Botryapium, 
White  Azalea,  Azalea  arborescens. 
Great  Flame  Azalea,  Azalea  calendulacea. 
Pinxter  Flower,  Azalea  Vaseyi. 
Clammy  Azalea,  Azalea  viscosa. 
Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  divaricata. 
Rose  Box.  Cotoneaster  Franchetii. 
Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  Dielsiana. 
Corylopsis,  Corylopsis  spicata. 
Variegated  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  variegata. 
Silky  Cornel,  Cornus  sericea. 
European  Osier,  Cornus  sanguinea. 
Common  Red  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera. 
Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  japonica. 
Lemone's  Deutzia,  Deutzia  Lemoinei. 
Rough-leaved  Deutzia,  Deutzia  scabra. 
Leatherwood,  Dirca  palustris. 
Enkianthus,  Enkianthus  campanulatus. 
Enkianthus,  Enkianthus  japonica. 
Japanese  Oleaster,  Elaeagnus  Jongipes. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Cork  Bark,  Euonymus  alatus. 
Strawberry  Bush,  Euonymus  americana. 
Fortune's  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  Fortunei. 
Green-bark  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  viridissima 
Drooping  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 
Japanese  Witch  Hazel,  Hamamelis  japonica. 
Native  Hydrangea,  Hydrangea  arborescens. 
Single  Hydrangea,  Hydrangea  paniculata. 
Double    Hydrangea,    Hydrangea    paniculata 

grandiflora. 
Winter  Berry,  Ilex  verticillata. 
Virginian  Willow,  Ilea  virginica. 
Fragrant    Bush   Honeysuckle,   Lonicera   fra- 

grantissima. 
Maack's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Maackii. 
Morrow's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Morrowii. 
Fly  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Xylosteum. 
Standish's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Standishii. 
Starry  Magnolia,  Magnolia  stellata. 
Scentless  Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  inodoru 


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PLANTS  FOR  GENERAL  USE 


125 


MEDIUM  SHRUBS — continued 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Double-flowering  Almond,  Prunus  amygdalus. 
Double-flowering  Plum,  Prunus  triloba. 
Black  Choke  Berry,  Pyrus  nigra. 
White  Scotch  Rose,  Rosa  spinosissima  altaica. 
Father  Hugo's  Rose,  Rosa  hugonis. 
Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 
Fragrant  Sumach,  Rhus  aromatica. 
Cut-leaved  Elder,  Sambucus  nigra  laciniata. 
Red-fruited  Elder,  Sambucus  racemosa. 
Fine-leaved  Spiraea,  Spiraea  arguta. 

True  Bridal  Wreath, 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Reeve's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Reevesiana. 
Ash-leaved  Spiraea,  Spiraea  sorbifolia. 
Vanhouttei's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Vanhouttei. 
Withe  Rod,  Viburnum  cassinoides. 
Japanese  Cranberry,  Viburnum  dilatatum. 
Japanese  Snowball,  Viburnum  plicatum. 
Wright's  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Wrightii. 
White  Weigela,  Weigela  amabilis. 
Vanhoutt's  Weigela,  Weigela  Vanhouttei. 
Silvery  Weigela,  Weigela  hortensis. 
Spiraea  prunifolia,  fl.  pi. 


Medium  Shrubs  (5  to  8  feet) 


EVERGREENS 


Boxwood,  Buxus  sempervirens. 
Large-leaved  Box,  Buxus  Handsworthi. 
Fire  Thorn,  Crataegus  pyracantha. 
Grecian  Juniper,  Juniperus  excelsa  stricta. 
Mountain  Laurel,  Kalmia  latifolia. 
Dwarf  White  Pine,  Pinus  strobus  brevifolia. 
Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana. 
Graceful  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  ob- 

tusa  gracilis. 
Oregon  Grape,  Mahonia  japonica. 
Gregory's  Spruce,  Picea  Gregoriana. 


Japanese  Table  Pine,  Pinus  densiflora  um- 
braculifera. 

Rosenthal's  Arborvitae,  Thuya  Rosenthalii. 

Japanese  Bush  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata. 

Graceful  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis  gracilis. 

Dwarf  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis  minima. 

Short-leaved  Hemlock,  Tsuga  diversifolia. 

Great  Laurel,  Rhododendron  catawbiense. 

Hybrid  Rhododendrons,  Rhododendron 
eatawbieiise,  Vars.  Chas.  Bagley,  Chas. 
Dickens,  Delicatissima,  Giganteum, 
C.  S.  Sargent,  Smirnovi,  Schlippenbachii, 
H.  W.  Sargent,    atrosanguineum 


Small  Shrubs  (3  to  5  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Lead  Plant,  Amorpha  canescens. 
Butterfly  Bush,  Buddleia  Veitchii. 
Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Chinese  Barberry,  Berberis  diaphana. 
Beauty  Fruit,  Callicarpa  purpurea. 
Fontanesia,  Fontanesia  Fortunei. 
New  Jersey  Tea,  Ceanothus  americanus. 
Sweet  Pepper  Bush,  Clethra  alnifolia. 
Oak-leaved  Hydrangea,  Hydrangea  querci- 

folia. 
Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  aureum, 

Hypericum  prolificum. 
Yellow  Globe  Flower,  Kerria  japonica. 
Variegated   Globe    Flower,    Kerria   japonica 

variegata. 
Regel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Regelianum. 
Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera. 
Pea    Bush,    Lespedeza    Sieboldii,  Lespedeza 

japonica. 


Golden   Mock  Orange,   Philadelphus  coron- 

arius  aureus. 
Lemoine's   Mock  Orange,   Philadelphus   Le- 

moinei. 
Beach  Plum,  Prunus  maritima. 
White  Globe  Flower,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 
Japanese  Rose,  Rosa  rugosa. 
Shining  Sumach,  Rhus  copallina. 
Golden  Currant,  Ribes  aureum. 
Red  Currant,  Ribes  sanguineum. 
Thunberg's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Thunbergii. 
Snowberry,  Symplioricarpos  racemosa. 
Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 
Lace  Bush,  Stephanandra  flexuosa. 
Maple-leaved    Viburnum,    Viburnum    aceri- 

folium. 
Scented  Guelder  Rose,  Viburnum  Carlesii. 
Weigela,  Weigela  Eva  Rathke. 
Florida  Weigela,  Weigela  florida. 


Small  Shrubs  (3  to  5  feet) 


EVERGREENS 
Biota  orientalis 


Golden  Chinese  Arborvitae 

aurea. 
Savin   Juniper,   Juniperus  Sabina 
Japanese  Juniper,  Juniperus  japonica. 
Pfitzer's  Juniper,  Juniper  chinensis  Pfitzeriana 
Tripartite  Juniper,  Juniperus  tripartita. 
Dwarf  Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana  Mughus 
Crip's  Golden  Cypress,  Retinospora  obtusa 

Crippsii. 


Short-leaved  Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata 

brevifolia. 
Compact  Golden  Yew,  Taxus  tardiva  aurea. 
Heath-leaved  Arborvitae,    Thuya  occidentalis 

ericoides. 
Hovey's     Arborvitae,      Thuya     occidentalis 

Hoveyi. 
Globe  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis  globosa. 
Ellwanger's  Arborvitae,  Thuya  EUwangeriana 


126 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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Fig.  1 13.— Shape  and  size  of  area  required  for  the  game 
of  lawn  bowls 


PLANTS  FOR  GENERAL  USE 


127 


SMALL  SHRUBS  (EVERGREENS) — continued 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Sargent's  Weeping  Hemlock,  Tsuga  Sargentii 

pendula. 
Drooping  Andromeda,  Andromeda  Cateshaei. 
Flowering  Andromeda,  Andromeda  floribunda. 
Japanese  Andromeda.  Andromeda  japonica. 
Japanese  Azalea,  Azalea  amoena. 
Japanese  Azalea,  Azalea  Hinodigiri. 
Box-leaved  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  buxifolia. 
Inkberry,  Ilex  glabra. 
Holly-leaved  Mahonia,  Mahonia  aquifolia. 


Common  Name  Botanical  Name 

Dotted  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  punc- 

tatum. 
Carolina  Rhododendron,  Rhodendron  carolin- 

iana. 
Hybrid  Rhododendrons,  Rhodendron  cataw- 

biense    album;    Vars.    Caractacus,    E.    S. 

Rand,    Everestianum,    Henrietta   Sargent, 

Ignatius  Sargent,   F.   D.   Godman,   H.   H. 

Hunnewell,  Lady  Armstrong,  Lady  Grey 

Egerton,   Mrs.  C.  S.  Sargent,  Lee's  Dark 

Purple,  Roseum  elegans. 


Dwarf  Shrubs  (Up  to  3  feet) 


DECIDUOUS 


Zenobia,  Andromeda  speciosa. 

Ghent  Azalea,  Azalea  pontica. 

Holland  Azalea,  Azalea  mollis. 

Blue  Spiraea,  Caryopteris  mastacantha. 

Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenifolium. 

Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Mezereum. 

Dwarf  Deutzia,  Deutzia  gracilis.. 

Aaron's  Beard,  Hypericum  calycinum. 

Aaron's  Beard,  Hypericum  Moserianum. 

Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  Kalmi- 


Prickly  Ash,  Zanthoxylon  americanum. 


Shrubby  Cinquefoil,  Potentilla  fruticosa. 
Waterer's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer. 
Fortune's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  callosa. 
Fortune's  White  Spiraea,  Spiraea  callosa  alba. 
Dwarf    Bush   Cranberry,  Virburnum  Opulus 

nanum. 
Korean  Rose,  Rosa  Jackii. 
Dwarf    Mock   Orange,    Philadelphus   micro- 

phylla. 
Yellow  Root,  Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia. 


Dwarf  Shrubs  (Up  to  3  feet) 


EVERGREEN 


Compact  Chinese  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis 
compacta. 

Golden  Chinese  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis 
compacta  aurea. 

Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  canadensis. 

Golden  Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  cana- 
densis aurea. 

Trailing  Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  cana- 
densis depressa. 

Scaly-leaved  Juniper,  Juniperus  squamata. 

Prostrate  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina  prostrata. 

Chinese  Trailing  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis 
procumbens. 

Gray  Carpet  Juniper.  Juniperus  Sabina 
tamariscifolia. 

Globe  Juniper,  Juniperus  virginiana  globosa. 

McLxwell's  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  Maxwellii. 

Pigmy  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  pygmea. 

Dwarf  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  nana. 

Dwarf  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  Clanbrasiliana. 

Dwarf  Eastern  Spruce,  Picea  orientalis  com- 
pactum. 

Compact  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  ob- 
tusa  compactum. 

Spreading  English  Yew,  Taxus  repandens. 

Canadian  Yew,  Taxus  canadensis. 

Compact  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis 
compactum. 


Tom  Thumb  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis 

Tom  Thumb. 
Little   Gem    Arborvitae,    Thuya    occidentalis 

Little  Gem. 
Dwarf  Box,  Buxus  suffruticosa. 
Prostrate  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis. 
Prostrate  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

perpusilla. 
Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Cneorum. 
Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Genkwa. 
Pachystima,  Pachystima  Canbyi. 
Japanese  Spurge,  Pacysandra  terminalis. 
Chinese  Barberry,  Berberis  verruculosa. 
Bearberry,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-ursi. 
Sand  Myrtle,  Dendrium  buxifoliura. 
Scotch  Heather,  Erica  vulgaris. 
Heath,  Erica  carnea. 
Wintergreen,  Gaultheria  procumbens. 
Periwinkle,  Vinca  minor. 
Wilson's  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  Wil- 

sonianum. 
Rusty   Rhododendron,   Rhodendron  ferrugi- 

neum 
Myrtle  -  leaved    Rhododendron,    Rhododen- 
dron myrtifolium. 
Rhododendron  hybrids.  Rhododendron  Boule 

de   Niege,    Mont  Blanc,    Kissena,   Blandi- 

anum,  Glennyanum. 


128 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


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Fig.  114.— Size  and  shape   of  playing  grounds  for  soccer  football,  ice  hockey  and 
croquet,   respectively 


PLANTS  FOR  SHADED  SITUATIONS 


129 


PLANTS  FOR  SHADED  SITUATIONS 

Many  of  the  plants  named  in  the  following  list  are  found  growing  vigorously 
in  the  open  sunlight,  but  they  are  included  here  because  it  has  been  proved 
that  they  also  succeed  in  the  shade.  In  such  locations,  the  soil  may  be  wet  or 
it  may  be  quite  dry;  accordingly  it  will  be  advisable  to  refer  to  the  lists  of 
plants  recommended  for  various  soil  conditions.  By  cross  reference  to  those 
lists  and  the  one  immediately  following,  a  selection  can  be  made  that  will 
succeed  in  the  shade,  in  any  particular  soil  condition.  The  foregoing  list 
"for  general  use"  provides  a  more  detailed  guide  to  approximate  sizes. 

Tall  Shrubs  and  Small  Trees 


DECIDUOUS 


Japanese  Maple,  Acer  polymorphum. 
June  Berry,  Amelanchier  canadensis. 
Tree  Azalea,  Azalea  arborescens. 
Hornbeam  (European),  Carpinus  Betulus. 
Red  Bud  (Judas  Tree),  Cercis  canadensis. 
White  Fringe,  Chionanthus  virginica. 
Alternate-leaved   Dogwood,   Cornus   alteri 

folia. 
White  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida. 
Pink  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida  rubra. 
Cornelian  Cherry,  Cornus  mascula. 


Witch    Hazel,    Hamamelis    virginiana,    and 

mollis. 
Snowdrop  Tree,  Halesia  tetraptera. 
Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgare. 
Spice  Bush,  Laurus  Benzoin. 
Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 
Sorrel  Tree,  Oxydendron  arboreum. 
Chokeberry,  Pyrus  arbutifolia. 
Mock   Orange    (scentless),   Philadelphus   in-. 

odorus. 
Arrowood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 
Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 


EVERGREEN 
Tree  Box,  Buxus  arborescens.  Great  Laurel,  Rhododendron  catawbiense. 

American  Holly,  Ilex  opaca.  Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  album 

Japanese  Holly,  Ilex  crenata.  elegans. 

Common  Juniper,  Juniperus  communis.  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis. 

Great  Laurel,  Rhododendron  maximum.  Siebold's  Hemlock,  Tsuga  Sieboldii. 


Smaller  Shrubs 


DECIDUOUS 


Ghent  Azalea,  Azalea  pontica. 

Holland  Azalea,  Azalea  mollis. 

Five-leaved  Angelica,  Aralia  pentaphylla. 

Clammy  Azalea,  Azalea  viscosa. 

Pinxter  Flower  (Wood  Honeysuckle),  Azalea 

Vaseyi. 
Naked  Azalea,  Azalea  nudiflora. 
Corylopsis,  Corylopsis  spicata. 
Silky  Cornel,  Cornus  sericea. 
Button  Bush,  Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 
New  Jersey  Tea,  Ceanothus  americanus. 
Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenifolum. 
Sweet  Shrub,  Calycanthus  floridus. 
Sweet  Pepper  Bush,  Clethra  alnifolia. 

Native  Hydrangea, 


Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  aureum. 

Regel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Ibota  Regelianum. 

Morrow's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Morrowii. 

Fragrant   Bush  Honeysuckle,    Lonicera  fra- 
grantissima. 

Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera. 

White  Globe  Flower,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 

Flowering  Raspberry,  Rubus  odoratus. 

Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosa. 

Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 

Black  Haw,  Viburnum  prunifolium. 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum  (Hardback),  Vibur- 
num acerifolium. 

Prickly  Ash,  Zanthoxylon  americanum. 
Hydrangea  arborescens. 


EVERGREEN 


Drooping  Andromeda,  Andromeda  Catesbaei. 
Flowering  Andromeda,  Andromeda  floribunda. 
Japanese  Andromeda,  Andromeda  japonica. 
Evergreen  Azalea,  Azalea  amoena. 
Japanese  Azalea,  Azalea  Hinodigiri. 
Boxwood,  Buxus  sempervirens. 
Heather,  Erica  vulgaris. 
Inkberry,  Ilex  glabra. 
Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  canadensis. 
Mountain  Laurel,  Kalmia  latifolia. 
Holly-leaved  Mahonia,  Mahonia  aquifolium. 


Japanese  Spurge,  Pachysandra  terminalii 


Dotted  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  punc* 
tatum. 

Carolina  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  caro- 
linianum. 

Hybrid  Rhododendrons,  Rhododendron  ca- 
tawbiense varieties. 

Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata. 

Short-leaved  Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata 
brevifolia. 

Canadian  Yew,  Taxus  canadensis. 

Sargent's  Hemlock,  Tsuga  Sargentii  pendula. 


130 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Herbaceous  Perennials 


Actae,  Actse  alba. 

Monkshood.  Aconitum  (all  species). 

Wild  Columbine,  Aquilegia  canadensis. 

Bugle,  Ajuba  reptans. 

Herb  Spiraea.  Astilbe  (all  species). 

Windflower  (Anemone),  Anemone  patens. 

Windflower    (Anemone),   Anemone   pennsyl- 

vanicum. 
Windflower    (Anemone),    Anemone    ranucu- 

loides. 
Short's  Aster,  Aster  Shortii. 
Bletia,  Bletia  hyacinthina. 
Wood  Fern,  Asplenium  (all  species). 
Spring  Beauty,  Claytonia  virginica. 
Lily  of  the  Valley,  Convallaria  majalis. 
Large-leaved    Campanula,    Campanula    lati- 

folia  raacrantha. 
Lady  Slipper,  Cypripedium  acaule. 
Silky    Lady  Slipper,   Cypripedium  pubescens. 
Pink  Lady  Slipper,    Cypripedium  spectabile. 
Marsh  Marigold,  Caltha  palustris. 
Foxglove,  Digitalis  (all  species). 
Bleeding  Heart,  Dicentra  spectabilis. 
Bleeding  Heart,  Dicentra  eximia. 
Erythronium,  Erythronium  americanum 
Plantain  Lily,  Funkia  (all  species). 
Gentian,  Gentiana  Andrewsii. 
Rough  Gentian,  Gentiana  scabra. 
Christmas  Rose,  Helleborus  niger. 


Liver  Leaf,  Hepatica  triloba. 

Wood  Fern,  Lastrea. 

Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 

Great  Lobelia,  Lobelia  syphilitica. 

Canadian  Lily,  Lilium  canadensis. 

Loosestrife,  Lysimachia  (all  species). 

Rose  Loosestrife,  Lythrum  (all  species). 

London  Pride,  Lychnis  chalcedonica. 

Rose  Campion,  Lychnis  coronaria. 

Forget-Me-Not,  Myosotis  palustris. 

Wood  Fern,  Osmunda. 

Jacob's  Ladder,  Polemonium  (all  species). 

Solomon's  Seal,  Polygonatum  giganteum. 

Fern,  Polystichum. 

Balloon  Flower,  Platycodon  grandiflora. 

Primrose,  Primula  (all  species). 

Lungwort,  Pulmonaria  (all  species). 

Shortia,  Shortia  galacifolia. 

Indian  Pink,  Spigelia  marilandica. 

Goat's  Beard,  Spiraea  (all  species). 

Blood  Root,  Sanguinaria  canadensis. 

Bouncing  Bet,  Saponaria  officinalis. 

Fern,  Scolopendrium. 

Spiderwort,  Tradescantia  virginica. 

Wake  Robin,  Trillium  (all  species). 

Periwinkle,  Vinca  minor. 

Tufted  Pansy,  Viola  cornuta. 

Speedwell,  Veronica  spicata. 

Virginian  Speedwell,  Veronica  virginiana. 


PLANTS  FOR  DRY  SOILS 

It  is  not  to  be  presumed  that  the  following  plants,  because  they  are  recom- 
mended for  dry  soils,  will  thrive  better  in  extremely  dry  places  than  under 
more  satisfactory  conditions.  These  plants,  like  all  others,  need  moisture; 
but  being  deep  rooting,  they  can  withstand  considerable  drought.  It  is  there- 
fore most  advisable,  and  indeed  necessary,  to  supply  fairly  good  soil  at  the 
time  of  transplanting,  and  to  give  some  attention  in  the  way  of  watering  them 
until  they  are  firmly  established. 

Trees 


DECIDUOUS 

Tree  of  Heaven,  Ailanthus  glandulosus. 
Box  Elder,  Acer  Negundo. 
Gray  Birch,  Betula  populifolia. 
Hackberry,  Celtis  occidentalis. 
Wild  Cherry,  Cerasus  serotina. 
Honey  Locust,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 
Red  Oak,  Quercus  rubra. 
Scarlet  Ctek,  Quercus  coccinea. 

Black  Locust, 


EVERGREEN 

Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 
Black  Spruce,  Picea  nigra. 
Red  Pine,  Pinus  resinosa. 
Pitch  Pine,  Pinus  rigida. 
Jack  Pine,  Pinus  Banksiana. 
Scrub  Pine,  Pinus  inops. 
Jersey  Pine,  Pinus  virginiana. 
White  Pine,  Pinus  Strobus. 
Robinia  pseudacacia. 


PLANTS  FOR  DRY  SOILS 


131 


Shrubs 


DECIDUOUS 


Five-leaved  Angelica,  Aralia  pentaphylla. 
New  Jersey  Tea,  Ceanothus  americanus. 
Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenifolium. 
Panicled  Dogwood,  Cornus  paniculata. 
Sand  Cherry,  Cerasus  pumila. 
Western  Sand  Cherry,  Cerasus  pumila  Besseyi 
Bladder  Senna,  Colutea  arborescens. 
St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  prolificum. 
St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  Kalmianum. 
Sea  Buckthorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides. 
Huckleberry,  Vaccinium  corymbosum. 
Bay  Berry,  Myrica  cerifera. 
Bush  Clover,  Lespedeza  bicolor. 


Bush  Clover,  Lespedeza  Sieboldii. 
Beach  Plum,  Prunus  maritima. 
Scrub  Oak.  Quercus  illicifolia. 
Prairie  Rose,  Rosa  setigera. 
Staghorn  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina. 
Fragrant  Sumach,  Rhus  aromatica. 
Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 
Mountain  Currant,  Ribes  aureum. 
Dwarf  Willow,  Salix  tristis. 
Prairie  Willow,  Salix  humilis. 
Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 
Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 
Wayfaring  Tree,  Viburnum  lantana. 


EVERGREEN 


Bearberry,  Arctostaphylos  Urva-ursi. 
Holly-leaved  Mahonia,  Mahonia  aquifolia. 
Savin  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina. 
Prostrate  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina  prostrata. 


Common  Juniper,  Juniperus  communis. 
Japanese  Spurge,  Pachysandra  terminalis. 
Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana. 
Dwarf  Mountain  Pine,  P.  montana  Mughus. 


Chinese  Trailing  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis  procumbens. 


Herbaceous  Perennials 


SUNNY   places 


Butterfly  Weed,  Asclepias  tuberosa. 

Sand  Milkweed,  Asclepias  amplexicaule. 

Sea  Thrift,  Armeria  maritima. 

Old  Woman,  Artemesia  abrotanum. 

Chamomile,  Anthemis  tinctoria. 

Yarrow  (Wooly),  Achillea  tomentosa. 

Yarrow,  Achillea  Ptarmica,  The  Pearl. 

Indigo,  Baptisia  australis. 

Indigo,  Baptisia  tinctoria. 

Wild  Senna,  Cassia  marilandica. 

Snow-in-Summer,  Cerastium  tomentosum. 

Everblooming  Spurge,  Euphorbia  myrsinites. 

Flowering  Spurge,  Euphorbia  corollata. 

Horse  Weed,  Erigeron  canadensis. 

Blue  Fleabane,  Erigeron  acris. 

Blue  Fescue,  Festuca  glauca. 

Blue  Bells,  Campanula  rotundifolia. 


Sweet  William,  Dianthus  barbatus. 


Baby's  breath,  Gypsophila  paniculata. 

Sunflower,  Helianthus  (in  variety). 

Wild  Lupine,  Lupinus  perennis. 

Lavender,  Lavendula  vera. 

Variegated  Nettle,  Lanum  album. 

Ragged  Robin,  Lychnis  coronaria. 

Prickly  Pear,  Opuntia  (all  species). 

Evening  Primrose,  ffinothera  Youngii. 

Moss  Pink,  Phlox  subulata. 

Moss  Pink,  Phlox  amcena. 

Blazing  Star,  Liatris  scariosa. 

Kansas  Gay  Feather,  Liatris  pycnostachya 

Beard's  Tongue,  Pentstemon  barbatus. 

House  Leek,  Sempervivum  (all  species). 

Stonecrop,  Sedum. 

Bouncing  Bet,  Saponaria  officinalis. 

Meadow  Sweet,  Spiraea  filipendula. 


Bugle,  Ajuga  genevensis. 
Columbine,  Aquilegia  canadensis. 
Windflower,  Anemone  pennsylvanica. 
Alpine  Aster,  Aster  alpinus. 
Yellow  Columbine,  Aquilegia  chrysantha. 
Coral  Bells,  Heuchera  sanguinea. 
Candytuft,  Iberis  sempervirens. 
Blazing  Star,  Liatris  elegans. 
Sensitive  Fern,  Onoclea  sensibilis. 


Ebony  Spleenwort,  Asplenium  ebeneum. 
Polypody  Fern,  Polypodium  vulgare. 
Balloon  Flower,  Platycodon  grandiflorum. 
Goldenglow,  Rudbeckia  triloba. 
Goat's  Beard,  Spiraea  aruncus. 
Stone  Crop,  Sedum  spectabile. 
Betony,  Stachys  betonica. 
Easter  Bells,  Stellaria  Holostea. 
Goldenrod,  Solidago  speciosa. 


132  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

PLANTS  FOR  WET  OR  MARSHY  PLACES 

In  the  following  list  are  found  those  trees  and  plants  which  prefer  low, 
wet  places,  like  those  in  which  they  are  found  growing  in  their  natural  habitats. 
If  planted  in  high,  dry  places  they  will  not  thrive. 

Trees 


DECIDUOUS 

Swamp  Maple,  Acer  rubrum. 

Speckled  Alder,  Alnus  incana. 

River  Birch,  Betula  nigra. 

Sweet  Gum,  Liquidambar  styraciflua. 

Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  sylvatica. 

Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  aquatica. 

Larch,  Larix  leptolepis. 

Swamp  White  Oak,  Quercus  bicolor. 

Pin  Oak,  Quercus  palustris. 

Water  Oak,  Quercus  aquatica. 

Aspen,  Populus  tremuloides. 


Weeping  Willow,  Salix  babylonica. 
Royal  Willow,  Salix  regalis. 
Pussy  Willow,  Salix  discolor. 
Goat  Willow,  Salix  caprea. 
White  Willow,  Salix  alba. 
American  Elm,  Ulmus  americana. 
Bald  Cypress,  Taxodium  distichum. 

EVERGREEN 
Balsam  Fir,  Abies  balsamea. 
Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austriaca. 
Arborvitse,  Thuya  occidentalis. 


Shrubs 


Clammy  Azalea,  Azalea  viscosa. 
Rhodora,  Azalea  canadensis. 
Button  Bush,  Cephalanthus  occidentalis. 
Allspice,  Calycanthus  floridus. 
Leatherleaf,  Chamaedaphne  calyculata  (ever- 
green.) 
Red  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera. 
Silky  Cornel,  Cornus  sericea. 
Sweet  Pepper  Bush,  Clethra  alnifolia. 
Winterberry,  Ilex  verticillata. 
Ink  Berry,  Ilex  glabra,  (evergreen) 
Virginian  Willow,  Itea  virginica. 
Sheep  Laurel,  Kalmiaangustifolia  (evergreen). 


Spice  Bush,  Laurus  Benzoin. 

Blue  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  coerulea. 

Sweet  Gale,  Myrica  Gale. 

Red  Chokeberry,  Pyrus  arbutifolia. 

Black  Chokeberry,  Pyrus  nigra. 

Swamp  Rose,  Rosa  Carolina. 

Wild  Black  Currant,  Ribes  floridum. 

Elderberry,  Sambucus  canadensis. 

Hardback,  Spiraea  tomentosum. 

Queen-of-the-Meadow,  Spiraea  salicifolium. 

Arrowwood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 

Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 

Withe  Rod,  Viburnum  cassinoides. 


Herbaceous  Perennials 


Sweet  Flag,  Acorus  calamus. 

Swamp  Milkweed,  Asclepias  incarnata. 

Michaelmas  Daisy,  Aster  ordifolius. 

New  England  Aster,  Aster  novae-angliae. 

New  England  Aster,  Aster  umbellatus. 

New  England  Aster,  Aster  puniceus. 

False  Chamomile,  Boltonia  latisquama. 

Marsh  Marigold,  Caltha  palustris. 

Turtlehead,  Chelone  glabra. 

Water  Arum,  Calla  palustris. 

Bunchberry,  Cornus  canadensis. 

Blue  Joint  Grass,  Calamagrostis  canadensis. 

Snakeroot,  Cimicifuga  racemosus. 

Boneset,  Eupatorium  perfoliatum. 

Joe  Pye  Weed,  Eupatorium  purpureum. 

Gardener's    Garter,    Eulalia    japonica    (and 

varieties) . 
Marsh  Mallow,  Hibiscus  Moscheutos. 
Swamp  Pink,  Helonias  buUata. 
Sneeze  Weed,  Helenium  autumnale. 
Blue  Flag,  Iris  versicolor. 

Slender  Flag, 


Yellow  Flag,  Iris  pseudacorus. 
Siberian  Flag,  Iris  sibirica. 
Japanese  Iris,  Iris  Kaempferi. 
Cardinal  Flower,  Lobelia  cardinalis. 
Purple  Loosestrife,  Lythrum  salicaria  roseum. 
Buckbean,  Menyanthes  trifoliatum. 
Blue  Buckbean,  Menyanthes  syphilitica. 
Forget-Me-Not,  Myosotis  palustris. 
Golden  Club,  Orontium  aquaticum. 
Royal  Fern,  Osmunda  regalis. 
False  Dragon  Head,  Physostegia  virginica. 
Buttercup,  Ranunculus  septembrionalis. 
Creeping  Buttercup,  Ranunculus  repens. 
Goldenrod,  Solidago  canadensis. 
Evergreen  Goldenrod,  Solidago  sempervirens. 
Georgian  Trumpet,  Sarracena  flava. 
Pitcher  Plant,  Sarracena  rubra. 
Purple  Pitcher  Plant,  Sarracena  purpurea. 
Cattails,  Typha  latifolia. 
Narrow-leaf  Cattail,  Typha  angustifolia. 
False  Hellebore,  Veratrum  viride. 
Iris  prismatica. 


PLANTS  FOR  THE  SEASHORE  133 

PLANTS  FOR  THE  SEASHORE  (Exposed) 

There  is  very  little  natural  plant  life  along  the  sea  front  beyond,  perhaps,  a 
few  beach  grasses.  Therefore  it  must  not  be  expected  that  the  trees  and 
shrubs  here  recommended  for  such  a  location  will  flourish  without  any  care. 
On  the  contrary,  a  good,  large  hole  should  be  dug  for  each  plant  and  good  soil 
substituted  for  the  sand.  After  being  carefully  and  firmly  planted,  the  trees 
must  be  protected  for  a  season  from  the  winds,  and  the  soil  soaked  occasionally 
during  the  Summer.  When  once  the  plants  are  established,  little  trouble  will 
be  experienced  in  maintaining  a  good  growth. 

Trees 
deciduous  evergreen 

Wild  Cherry,  Cerasus  serotina.  American  Holly.  Ilex  opaca. 

Honey  Locust,  Gleditschia  triacanthos.  Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 

Beach  Plum,  Prunus  maritima.  Larch,  Larix  leptolepsis. 

White  Poplar,  Populus  alba.  Colorado  Spruce,  Picea  pungens. 

Balsam  Poplar,  Populus  balsamifera.  ^^.'^jf  R'^^^'^'p?'"^  ^"M''^- 

■D   ^^       wT     J    r.1   /^  ■     i  1-  Pitch  Pine,  Pinus  ngida. 

Button  Wood    Platanus  orientalis.  g^^j^l,  p-^^^  p-^^^  sylvestris. 

Scarlet  Oak.  Quercus  coccinea.  Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austriaca. 

Jack  Pine,  Pinus  Banksiana. 

Shrubs 

Groundsel  Tree,  Baccharis  halimifolia.  Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera. 

Sand  Cherry,  Cerasus  pumila.  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina. 

Western  Sand  Cherry,  Cerasus  pumila  Besseyi.  Japanese  Rugosa,  Rosa  rugosa. 

Sea  Buckthorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides.  Wild  Rose,  Rosa  lucida. 

Double    Hydrangea,    Hydrangea    paniculata  Prairie  Rose,  Rosa  setigera. 

grandiflora.  Buffalo  Berry,  Shepherdia  argentea. 

Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgare.  Tamarisk,  Tamarix  africana. 
Calif ornian  Privet.  Ligustrum  ovalifolium. 


PLANTS  FOR  BINDING  AND  COVERING 
SOIL  ON  STEEP  BANKS 

When  planting  on  a  steep  bank,  the  practical  side  of  the  operation,  that 
of  binding  the  soil  to  prevent  washing,  should  be  the  chief  aim.  With  this  in 
mind  the  planting  must  be  carefully  done,  substituting  good  soil  where  each 
shrub  is  placed,  and  leaving  a  considerable  depression,  so  that  at  least  some 
water  will  be  caught  for  the  benefit  of  the  roots.  Good  results  are  attained 
by  sowing  seed  of  the  following  plants,  as  well  as  planting  them;  and  the  soil 
can  be  retained  during  the  germination  period  by  pegging  wire  fencing  down 
over  it.  In  any  event  close  attention  should  be  paid  to  the  bank  for  the 
first  year  or  two,  and  any  damage  caused  by  washing  should  be  remedied 
immediately  it  is  discovered. 

Shrubs 

Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii.  Elderberry,  Sambucus  canadensis. 

Five-leaved  Angelica,  Aralia  pentaphylla.  Hardback,  Spiraea  tomentosa. 

Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenlfolia.  Purple  Osier,  Salix  purpurea. 

Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera.  Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica.  Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 

Smooth  Sumach,  Rhus  glabra.  Osage  Orange,  Toxylon  pomiferum. 

Staghorn  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina.  Yellow  Root,  Xanthoxylon  americanum. 

Prairie  Rose,  Rosa  setigera  Japanese  Rose,  Rosa  rugosa. 
Fragrant  Sumach,  Rhus  aromatica. 


134  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Vines 

Bittersweet,  Celastrus  scandens.  Memorial  Rose,  Rosa  Wichuraiana. 

Japanese  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  japonica.  Wild  Rose,  Rosa  lucida. 

Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  halimifolia.  Wild  Rose,  Rosa  nitida. 

Chinese  Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  chinense. 

PLANTS  FOR  WINDBREAKS  AND  SCREENS 

In  order  to  break  the  sweep  of  high  winds  it  is  necessary  to  plant  closely, 
and  to  use  such  trees  and  shrubs  as  leaf  out  early  in  Spring  and  retain  their 
foliage  until  late  Autumn.  The  individual  value  of  any  tree  or  shrub  as  a 
thing  of  beauty  must  not  be  considered,  so  that  the  various  kinds  used  should 
be  allowed  to  crowd  each  other  with  their  branches  intermingling.  The  trees 
will,  of  course,  be  the  main  factor  in  sheltering,  but  it  will  often  be  found 
necessary  to  clothe  the  base  of  trees  with  flowering  shrubs.  If  the  planting 
is  to  shelter  a  refined  lawn  area,  a  better  class  of  shrubs  can  be  used  on  the 
inside  of  the  belt,  which  should  be  composed  mainly  of  the  following  plants: 

Trees 
deciduous  evergreen 

Red  Maple,  Acer  rubrum.  Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 

Sugar  Maple,  Acer  saccharinum.  Norway  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa. 

Hornbeam,  Carpinus  caroliniana.  White  Spruce,  Picea  alba. 

American  Beech,  Fagus  ferruginea.  White  Pine,  Pinus  Strobus. 

White  Oak,  Quercus  alba.  Red  Pine,  Pinus  resinosa. 

Carolina  Poplar,  Populus  caroliniana.  Pitch  Pine,  Pinus  rigida. 

Lombardy  Poplar,  Populus  fastigiata.  Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austnaca. 

While  Willow,  Salix  alba.  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis. 

Shrubs 

Tartarian  Maple,  Acer  tatarica.  Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgare. 

Red-twigged  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba.  Bush  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 

Hazel,  Corylus  americana.  Bush  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  bella  albida. 

Russian  Olive,  Elaeagnus  angustifolia.  Bush  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Maackii. 

Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  intermedia.  Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 
Green-bark  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  viridissima       Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 

Ibota  Privet,  Ligustrum  Ibota.  Arrowwood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 

PLANTS  FOR  FORMAL  HEDGES 

All  plants  or  trees  selected  for  this  purpose  must,  of  necessity,  be  of  a  more 
or  less  twiggy  nature  with  an  abundance  of  branches,  and  also  be  amenable 
to  close  shearing.  If  the  hedge  is  to  be  a  barrier,  the  various  thorny  subjects 
will  best  answer  the  purpose,  while  for  an  ornamental  hedge,  the  Beech, 
Hornbeam  or  any  of  the  evergreens  are  more  suitable.  Whatever  is  used,  the 
pruning  should  be  severe  for  a  year  or  so,  in  order  to  force  a  good  growth 
from  the  ground  up.  The  last  shearing  should  be  done  not  later  than  August 
or  early  September,  so  that  there  will  be  little  or  no  young  growth  to  withstand 
the  following  Winter.  The  distance  of  planting  will  depend  upon  the  material 
used  and  the  aim  in  view.  It  is,  however,  generally  advisable  to  use  smaller 
plants  and  set  them  close  together,  rather  than  to  use  larger  plants  at  a  greater 
distance.  No  matter  what  size  is  used,  the  plants  should  be  allowed  to  touch, 
and  if  a  broad  hedge  is  desired,  plant  a  double  row,  setting  the  plants  in  the 
second  row  alternately  with  those  in  the  first. 

Tall — Deciduous 

Hornbeam  (European),  Carpinus  betulus.  Honey  Locust,  Gleditschia  triacanthos. 

Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  Crus-galli.  Black  Thorn,  Prunus  spinosa. 

English  Hawthorn,  Crataegus  Oxyacantha.  Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 

European  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica.  Osage  Orange,  Toxylon  pomiferum. 


PLANTS  FOR  FORMAL  HEDGES  135 

Tall— Evergreen  Low— Deciduous 

Norway  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa.  Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 

Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis.  Small-leaved  Pea  Tree,  Caragana  microphylla . 

Siberian  Arborvitse,  Thuya  sibirica.  Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  japonica. 

Japanese  Yew  Tree,  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata.       Kegel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Regelianum. 
Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis.  Amoor  River  Privet,  Ligustrum  amurensis. 

Californian  Privet,  Ligustrum  ovalifolium. 

Low — Evergreen 

Boxwood,  Buxus  sempervirens.  Japanese  Bush  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata. 

Firethorn,  Crataegus  pyracantha.  Dwarf  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis  gracilis. 

{>Tarf".lrtr4i'Vhuyroccidentalis  com-  Compact  Hemlock.  Tsuga  canadensis  com- 

pacta.  Pa*=t=*- 

Rosenthal's    Arborvitae,    Thuya    occidentalis  Short-leaved  Hemlock,  Tsuga  diversifolia. 

Rosenthalii. 

DWARF  HEDGE  PLANTS  FOR  EDGING 

Sometimes  it  is  desirable  to  emphasize  a  line  or  design,  but  at  the  same 
time  not  interfere  with  the  general  view  over  the  lawn,  as  in  the  case  of  the 
old-fashioned  Box-bordered  walks.  The  plants  used  for  this  purpose  must 
naturally  be  of  a  low,  compact  habit,  with  good  foliage.  The  Privets  are 
included  because  they  can  be  continually  clipped  very  severely  without  detri- 
ment to  the  appearance  of  the  hedge  when  old;  moreover  this  persistent  prun- 
ing tends  to  stunt  their  natural  vigorous  growth,  with  the  result  that  they 
finally  keep  within  bounds.  This  also  pertains  to  other  plants  that  will  be 
recognized  as  ordinarily  larger  bushes. 

deciduous  evergreen 

Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii.  Evergreen  Azalea,  Azalea  amcena. 

Box  Barberry,  Berberis  buxifolia.  ^^^rf  Boxwood,  Buxus  suffruticosa.   . 

„        ,  „        .     „        .  ...  Dwarf   Eastern   Arborvitae,    Biota  onentahs 

Dwarf  Deutzia,  Deutzia  gracilis.  compacta  nana. 

Fortune's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  callosa.  Firethorn,  Crataegus  pyracantha. 

Fortune's  Spirsa,  Spirsa  callosa  alba.  Small-leaved   Japanese    Holly.    Ilex   crenata 

,    ^   .       \-   .         .      ■  „,  microphylla. 

Waterer  s  Spiraea.  Spiraa  Anthony  Waterer.         Dwarf  Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata  brevi- 
Amoor  River  Privet,  Ligustrum  amurensis.  folia. 

Kegel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Regelianum.  ^warf  Golden  Yew    Taxus  tardiva  aur^. 

^       .    „     ,    V.       u  ,r-!^  ^     ,  Dwarf  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis,  Tom 

Dwarf    Bush    Cranberry.   Viburnum  Opulus  Thumb. 

nanum.  Dwarf  Arborvitae.  Thuya  occidentalis.  Little 

Gem. 
Compact  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  ob- 
tusa  compacta. 

PLANTS  FOR  NATURAL  OR  INFORMAL  HEDGES 

Although  no  pruning  (except  the  removal  of  dead  and  very  old  wood) 
will  be  found  necessary  on  the  shrubs,  it  is  best  to  "top"  (cut  off  the  main 
stem  of)  the  trees  before  they  have  reached  the  desired  height.  By  so  doing 
the  side  branches  will  be  strengthened,  and  a  hedge  suitable  for  dividing 
large  areas  obtained.  Being  set  more  closely  together  than  in  the  ordinary 
planting,  the  shrubs  will  need  water  more  often  than  is  generally  realized,  and 
the  soil  must  not  be  heaped  up  at  the  base — rather  let  there  be  a  slight  de- 
pression in  which  the  water  will  collect.  The  shrubs  may  be  set  about  one  and 
a  half  to  three  feet  apart,  and  in  the  case  of  Lilacs  a  little  more  space  will  allow 
better  development  for  flowering. 

Tall — Deciduous 

Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  Crus-galli.  Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 

European  Beech.  Fagus  sylvatica.  Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 

Honey  Locust,  Gleditschia  triacanthos.  Carolina  Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  caroliniana. 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica.  Black  Thorn,  Prunus  spinosa. 


136 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


European  Hornbeam,  Carpinus  betulus. 
Wing  Bark,  Euonymus  alatus. 
Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  syriacus. 
Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  coronarius. 
Deutzia,  Deutzia,  Pride  of  Rochester. 
Arrowwood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 
Weigela,  Weigela  (in  variety). 

Tall — Evergreen 

Plumed  Cypress,  Retinispora  plumosa. 
Pea-fruited  Cypress,  Retinispora  pisifera. 
Japanese  Yew  Tree,  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata. 
Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis. 
Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis. 


Low — Deciduous 

Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  japonica 
Regel's     Privet,     Ligustrum     Regelianum. 
Japanese  Rose,  Rosa  rugosa. 
Vanhouttei's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Vanhouttei. 
Bridal  Wreath,  Spiraea  prunifolia  fl.  pi. 
Lace  Bush,  Stephanandra  flexuosa. 
Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 
Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 
Lemoine's  Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  Le- 

moinei. 
Waterer's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer. 
Dwarf  Deutzia,  Deutzia  gracilis. 


Low — Evergreen 
Any  of  the  plants  named  in  the  list  for  low,  formal  hedges  (page  135)  will 
make  an  excellent  informal  hedge  if  allowed  to  grow  naturally,  with    just 
an  occasional  pruning. 


PLANTS  FOR  SKY-LINE  EFFECTS 

Unless  the"skyline"orcontour  of  the  shrubbery  border  is  varied,  the  result 
is  liable  to  be  flat  and  uninteresting,  especially  when  viewed  from  a  little  dis- 
tance. Therefore,  in  addition  to  color  and  leaf  form,  the  habits  of  plant 
material  must  be  considered  with  a  view  to  contrast  or  quiet  harmony.  For 
instance,  the  vertical  branches  of  the  Lombardy  Poplar  make  a  striking  con- 
trast to  the  horizontal  growth  of  the  Thorns.  Between  these  two  extremes  there 
are  many  forms,  offering  a  wide  scope  for  various  combinations. 

Columnar  or  Pyramidal  Trees 


deciduous 

Upright  Sugar  Maple,  Acer  saccharum  monu- 

mentale. 
Pyramidal  White  Birch,  Betula  alba  fastigiata. 
Upright    Hornbeam,    Carpinus    betulus   col- 

umnare. 
Maiden   Hair  Tree   (upright  form).  Ginkgo 

biloba  fastigiata. 
Lombardy  Poplar,  Populus  nigra  fastigiata. 
Bolle's  Poplar,  Populus  Bolleana. 
Pyramidal  Oak,  Quercus  fastigiata. 


Bald  Cypress,  Taxodium  distichum. 
Wheatley's  Elm,  Ulmus  scabra  Wheatleyi. 

evergreen 

Nikko  Fir,  Abies  brachyphylla. 

Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 

Upright  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  pyramidalis. 

Pyramidal    Arborvitae,    Thuya    occidentalis 

pyramidalis. 
American  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis. 
Eastern  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis. 
Chinese  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis. 


Rugged  or  Picturesque  Trees 


deciduous 

Black  Oak,  Quercus  velutina. 
Kentucky  Coffee  Tree,  Gymnocladus  cana- 
densis. 
Hickory,  Carya  ovata. 
Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  Crus-galli. 
Varnish  Tree,  Kcelreuteria  paniculata. 
Sassafras,  Sassafras  officinale. 


Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  sylvatica. 
Black  Walnut,  Juglans  nigra. 

EVERGREEN 
Scotch  Pine,  Pinus  sylvestris. 
Jack  Pine,  Pinus  Banksiana. 
Pitch  Line,  Pinus  rigida. 
Jersey  Pine,  Pinus  virginiana. 
Bull  Pine,  Pinus  ponderosa. 


Pendulous  or  Weeping  Trees 


deciduous 


Wier's    Cut-leaf    Maple,    Acer    dasycarpum 

laciniatum. 
Cut-leaf  Weeping  Birch,  Betula  alba  laciniata 

pendula. 
Japanese  Weeping  Cherry,  Cerasus  japonica 

pendula. 


Weeping  Cherry,  Cerasus  serotina  pendula. 
Weeping  Ash,  Fraxinus  rotundifolia  pend  ula. 
Weeping  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica  pendula. 
Weeping  Purple  Beech,  Fagus  sylvatica  pur- 
purea pendula. 
Weeping  Larch,  Larix  leptolepis  pend  ula. 


PLANTS  FOR  SKY-LINE  EFFECTS 


137 


DECIDUOUS — continued 

Weeping  Mulberry,  Morus  alba  pendula. 

Weeping  Willow,  Salix  babylonica. 

Wisconsin  Weeping  Willow,  Salix  dolorosa. 

Thurlow's  Weeping  Willow,  Salix  elegantis- 
sima. 

Weeping  Pagoda  Tree,  Sophora  japonica  pen- 
dula. 

Camperdown  Elm,  Ulmus  montana  pendula. 

Kilmarnock  Willow,  Salix  caprea  pendula. 


EVERGREEN 
Weeping  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  pendula. 
Weeping  Blue  Spruce,  Picea  pungens,  Kos- 

teri  pendula. 
Thread-branch    Cypress,  Retinispora  filifera 

pendula. 
Sargent's  Weeping  Hemlock,  Tsuga  Sargentii 

pendula. 
Weeping  Virginian  Cedar,  Juniperus  virgini- 

ana  pendula. 


Formal  "Standard"  Trees 

These  are  most  useful  for  accentuating  points  in  a  formal  garden,  or  for 
lining  a  drive  where  the  space  is  too  small  for  large  trees.  In  the  case  of  the 
Catalpa,  the  branches  or  "head"  should  be  pruned  severely  to  encourage  a 
strong,  even  growth  each  year,  but  this  is  not  necessary  with  the  Maple  or 
Elm.  Each  of  these  trees  is  grafted  on  a  stem  of  another  variety,  so  any  shoots 
coming  from  the  base  or  on  the  stem  must  be  cut  off  close  to  leave  a  clean, 
straight  trunk. 

Globe-headed   Maple,  Acer  platanoides  glo-       Bunge's   Catalpa    (wrongly  called   Umbrella 
bosum.  Tree),  Catalpa  Bungei. 

Globe-headed  Elm,  Ulmus  foliacea  umbraculifera. 


BERRY-BEARING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS 

The  ornamental  or  landscape  value  of  a  shrub  is  greatly  enhanced  if  it  has 
colored  fruits.  Often,  although  the  flower  will  be  quite  inconspicuous,  the 
fruits  are  so  highly  colored  that  they  are  really  preferable  to  flowers,  as,  gen- 
erally speaking,  they  will  last  much  longer.  Furthermore,  the  garden  con- 
taining berry-bearing  shrubs  will  be  the  center  of  attraction  for  all  kinds  of 
birds,  which  add  life  and  interest  to  any  place.  Those  kinds  of  which  the 
fruit  is  particularly  preferred  by  birds  as  food  are  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*). 


Red  Berries 


♦Common  Barberry,  Berberis  vulgaris. 
♦Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
♦Bird  Cherry,  Cerasus  pennsylvanica. 
♦Flowering  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida. 
♦Cornelian  Cherry,  Cornus  mas. 
♦Washington  Thorn,  Crataegus  cordata. 
♦Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  Crus-galli. 
♦Scarlet  Thorn,  Crataegus  coccinea. 
♦Hawthorn,  Crataegus  nitida. 
♦Hawthorn,  Crataegus  punctata. 
♦English  Hawthorn,  Crataegus  Oxyacantha. 

Firethorn,  Crataegus  Pyracantha. 
♦Scarlet  Haw,  Crataegus  mollis. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  disticha. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  divaricata. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  hupehensis. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  buUata. 
♦Wing-bark  Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  alatus. 
♦European  Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  europaeus 


♦Chinese  Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  Bungeana. 
♦Winterberry,  Ilex  verticillata. 
♦Morrow's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Morrowii. 
♦Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 
♦Ruprecht's     Honeysuckle,     Lonicera     Ru- 

prechtiana. 
♦Fly  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  xylosteum. 
♦Maack's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Maackli. 

Mountain  Holly,  Nemopanthus  canadensis. 
♦Sweet  Briar,  Rosa  rubiginosa. 
♦Japanese  Rose,  Rosa  rugosa. 
♦Meadow  Rose,  Rosa  blanda. 
♦Mountain  Ash  (orange  red),  Sorbus  aucu- 

paria. 
♦European  Mountain  Ash,  Sorbus  americana. 
♦Red-fruited    Elderberry,    Sambucus    rac 

mosus. 
♦High  Bush  Cranberry,  Viburnum  Opulus. 
♦Japanese  Cranberry,  Viburnum  dilatatum. 
♦Japanese  Cranberry,  Viburnum  americanum 


138  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

White  Berries 

White-fruited  Dogwood, Cornuscandidissima.        Common  Red  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera. 
Rough-leaved  Cornel,  Cornus  rugosus.  Red-twigged  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba. 

♦Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 

Yellow  Fruits 

♦Goumi,  Elaeagnus  longipes.  *Yellow-fruited  Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Loni- 

♦Oleaster,  Elaeagnus  angustifolia.  cera  tatarica  fructo  lutea. 

♦Buffalo  Berry,  Shepherdia  argentea.  *Small-flowered  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  minu- 

Sea  Buckthorn,  Hipphophae  rhamnoides.  tiflora. 

♦Yellow-fruited    Honeysuckle,    Lonicera  Ru-  Yellow-fruited    Privet,    Ligustrum    vulgaris 

prechtiana  xanthocarpum.  leucocarpum. 

♦Yellow-fruited  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Opulus  xanthocarpum. 

Black  Fruits 

Hercules'  Club,  Aralia  spinosa.  White  Globe  Flower,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 

Barberry,  Berberis  Gagnepaineii.  ♦Elderberry,  Sambucus  canadensis. 

Barberry,  Berberis  verruculosa.  ♦Hairy  Viburnum,  Viburnum  pubescens. 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  foveolata.  Maple-leaved    Viburnum,    Viburnum  aceri- 

Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  moupinensis.  folium. 

Inkberry,  Ilex  glabra.  ♦Black  Haw,  Viburnum  prunifolium. 

Japanese  Holly,  Ilex  crenata.  ♦Hobble  Bush,  Viburnum  alnifolium. 

Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  involucrata.  Siebold's  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Sieboldii. 

♦Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgare.  Single   Japanese   Snowball,   Viburnum   pli- 

Chinese  Cork  Tree,  Phellodendron  amurense.  catum. 

♦Black  Chokeberry,  Pyrus  nigra.  ♦Wayfaring  Tree,  Viburnum  lantana. 
♦Buckthorn,  Rhamnus  cathartica. 

Deep  Blue-Black  Fruits  Blue  Fruits 

Holly-leaved  Mahonia,  Mahonia  aquifolia.  Silky  Cornel,  Cornus  sericea. 

Creeping  Mahonia,  M.  aquifolium  repens.  Beauty    Fruit    (mauve    fruits),    Callicarpa 

♦Blueberry,  Vaccinium  corymbosum.  purpurea. 

♦Low  Blueberry,  Vaccinium  pennsylvanicum.  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  ccErulea. 

♦Arrowwood,  Viburnum  dentatum.  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  villosa. 

♦Witherod,  Viburnum  cassinoides.  Turquoise  Berry  (a  vine),  Symplocos  cratae- 

♦Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago.  goides. 

Sweet  Leaf  (a  vine),  Ampelopsis  versicolor. 


PLANTS  ATTRACTIVE  TO  BIRDS 

In  addition  to  those  with  brightly  colored  fruits,  there  are  many  plants 
that  bear  seeds  which  seem  to  be  especially  palatable  to  birds.  Certain  trees 
and  shrubs  are  also  preferred  as  nesting  sites,  therefore  the  following  list 
should  be  referred  to  in  conjunction  with  that  of  the  berried  plants. 

DFTTnTTniT';  Mountain  Currant,  Ribes  alpinum. 

c-u   .  „     u    .    l-^^^l"UUUb  Wild  Grape,  Vitis  Labrusca. 

Shad  Bush,  Amelanchier  canadensis.  White  Grape,  Vitis  aestivalis. 

Cherry  Birch,  Betula  lenta.  Weigela,  Weigela  amabilis. 

Mahaleb  Cherry,  Cerasus  Mahaleb.  Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 

European  Bird  Cherry,  Cerasus  padus.  American  Elm,  Ulmus  americana. 

Nettle  Tree,  Celtis  occidentahs.  Shining  Sumach,  Rhus  copallina. 
Shrubby  St.  John  s  Wort,  Hypericum  prolin- 

Spke™Bush,  Laurus  Benzoin.  EVERGREEN 

Japanese  Larch,  Larix  Kaempferi.  Common  Juniper,  Juniperus  communis. 

Mulberry  (White),  Morus  alba.  Irish  Juniper,  Juniperus  hibernica. 

Mulberry  (Red),  Morus  rubra.  Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 

Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera.  Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austriaca. 
Crap  Apple,  Malus  baccata  and  floribunda.        White  Pine,  Pinus  Strobus. 

Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  sylvatica.  Red  Pine,  Pinus  resinosa. 

Smooth  Sumach,  Rhus  glabra.  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis. 

Staghorn  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina.  Canadian  Yew,  Taxus  canadensis. 


PLANTS  WITH  VARIEGATED  FOLIAGE 


139 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS  WITH  VARIEGATED 
OR  COLORED  FOLIAGE 


Trees 

Schwedler's  Maple,  Acer  platanoides  Schwed- 

leri. 
Purple-leaved    Birch,    Betula   alba   atropur- 

purea. 
Purple    or   Copper    Beech,    Fagus   sylvatica 

purpurea. 
Purple-leaved  Plum,  Prunus  Pissardii. 
Golden  Elm,  Ulmus  americana  aurea. 


Shrubs 

Variegated  Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  Maulei 

tricolor. 
Purple  Barberry,  Berberis  vulgaris  purpurea. 
Variegated  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  variegata. 
Spaeth's  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  Spaethii. 
Purple  Hazel,  Corylus  avellana  purpurea. 


Goumi,  Elaeagnus  longipes. 

Silver  Thorn,  Elaeagnus  argentea. 

Sea  Buckthorn,  Hippophae  rhamnoides. 

Variegated  Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  syriacus 
variegata. 

Variegated  Globe  Flower,  Kerria  japonica 
variegata. 

Golden  Privet,  Ligustrum  ovalifolium  aureum. 

Golden  Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  coronarius 
aureus. 

Golden  Hop  Tree,  Ptelea  trifoliata  aurea. 

Golden  Elder,  Sambucus  nigra  aurea. 

Golden  Ninebark,  Sambucus  opulifolia  aurea. 

Variegated  Weigela,  Weigela  hybrida  varie- 
gata. 

Japanese  Maple,  Acer  japonicum  aureum. 

Japanese  Maple,  Acer  palmatum  atropur- 
pureum. 

Japanese  Maple,  Acer  palmatum  maculatum 


SMALL-FLOWERING  TREES  FOR  LAWN 
SPECIMENS 

Sometimes  it  is  desirable  to  break  a  view  without  doing  so  too  harshly. 
By  using  any  of  the  following  trees  the  object  is  achieved  and,  being  beautiful 
in  themselves,  the  subjects  add  considerable  interest  to  the  general  planting. 
Another  use  is  to  plant  them  among  the  shrubs  in  the  border,  in  this  way  se- 
curing height  and  privacy  and  varying  the  sky  line  of  the  border. 
Flowering  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida. 
Pink  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida  rubra. 
White  Fringe,  Chionanthus  virginicus. 


Hawthorn,  Cratsegus  Oxycantha. 

Paul's  Scarlet  Thorn,    Crataegus  Oxycantha 

Paulii. 
White  Hawthorn,  Crataegus  Oxycantha  alba. 
Silver  Bell,  Halesia  tetraptera. 
Flowering  Crab  Apple,  Pyrus  floribunda. 
Chinese  Crab,  Pyrus  spectabile. 
Parkman's  Crab,  Pyrus  Parkmannii. 
Bechtel's  Crab,  Pyrus  ioensis  Bechtelii. 
Scented  Crab,  Pyrus  coronarius. 


Pearl  Blush,  Exochorda  grandiflora. 


Japanese  Cherry,  Cerasus  serrulata  in  variety. 
Flowering  Plum   (grafted  on  stem),   Prunus 

triloba. 
Flowering  Peach,  Prunus  persica  fl.  pi. 
Sorrel  Tree,  Oxydendron  arboreum. 
Soulange's  Magnolia,  Magnolia  Soulangeana. 
Japanese  Magnolia,  Magnolia  Kobus. 
Chinese  Tree  Lilac,  Syringa  pekinensis. 
Japanese  Tree  Lilac,  Syringa  japonica. 
Japanese  Storax,  Styrax  japonica. 
Umbrella  Tree,  Magnolia  tripetala. 
Large-leaved     Magnolia,     Magnolia     macro- 

phylla. 


PLANTS  FOR 

Trees 

Red  Maple,  Acer  rubrum. 
Sugar  Maple,  Acer  saccharum. 
Washington  Thorn,  Crataegus  cordata. 
American  Beech,  Fagus  ferruginea. 
Sweet  Gum,  Liquidambar  styraciflua. 
Tulip  Tree,  Liriodendron  tulipifera. 
Sour  Gum,  Nyssa  sylvatica. 
Scarlet  Oak,  Quercus  coccinea. 
White  Oak,  Quercus  alba. 
Black  Oak,  Quercus  velutina. 
Red  Oak,  Quercus  rubra. 
Pin  Oak,  Quercus  palustris. 
Chestnut  Oak,  Quercus  Prinus. 
Sassafras,  Sassafras  officinalis. 
Flowering  Dogwood,  Cornus  florida. 


AUTUMN  COLORING 

Shrubs 

Mountain  Maple,  Acer  ginnala. 
Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Panicled  Dogwood,  Cornus  paniculata. 
Alternate-leaved    Dogwood,    Cornus   alterni- 

folia. 
Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  americana. 
Burning  Bush,  Euonymus  atropurpureus. 
Wing-bark  Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  alatus. 
Sorrel  Tree,  Oxydedron  arboreum. 
Chokeberry,  Pyrus  nigra. 
Red  Chokeberry,  Pyrus  arbutifolius. 
Smooth  Sumach,  Rhus  copallina. 
Fragrant  Sumach,  Rhus  aromatica. 
Shining  Sumach,  Rhus  glabra. 
Staghorn  Sumach,  Rhus  typhina. 
Flowering  Currant,  Ribes  aureum. 
Blueberry,  Vaccinium  corymbosum. 
Low  Blueberry,  Vaccinium  pennsylvanicum. 
Viburnums,  Viburnum  (all  species). 


140  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Vines 

Bittersweet,  Celastrus  scandens.  Meadow  Rose,  Rosa  blanda. 

Oriental  Bittersweet,  Celastrus  orbiculatus.  Glory  Vine,  Vitis  Coignetise. 

Virginian  Creeper,  Ampelopsis  quinquefolia.  Wild  Grape,  Vitis  Labrusca. 

Boston  Ivy,  Ampelopsis  Veitchii.  Wild  Grape,  Vitis  aestivalis. 

Wild  Rose,  Rosa  lucida. 


RAPID  GROWING  PLANT  MATERIALS 

Unfortunately  the  desire  for  immediate  shade  is  allowed  to  outweigh  the 
very  important  question  of  permanency.  Whenever  quick  growing  trees  are 
planted,  they  should  be  supplemented  with  the  slower  growing  but  more 
permanent  kinds.  It  may  be  generally  stated  that  all  quick  growing  trees 
have  soft  wood  and  are  therefore  easily  broken  during  storms;  furthermore, 
they  are  comparatively  short  lived.  Still  another  objection  is  that  borers  are 
more  apt  to  attack  them  than  the  hardwoods.  On  the  other  hand,  their 
value  in  supplying  shade  in  a  short  time  must  not  be  underestimated,  and  if 
hardwoods  are  planted  at  the  same  time,  the  fast  growing  trees  will  have 
served  their  purpose  by  the  time  the  permanent  kinds  are  serviceable  as  shade 
specimens;  the  former  can  then  be  cut  down  to  allow  room  for  the  perfect 
development  of  the  others. 

Trees 

DECIDUOUS  Lombardy  Poplar,  Populus  nigra  fastigiata. 
Weeping  Willow,  Salix  babylonica. 

Box  Elder,  Acer  Negundo.  White  Willow,  Salix  alba. 

Tree  of  Heaven,  Ailanthus  glandulosus.  Royal  Willow,  Salix  regalis. 
Silver  Maple,  Acer  dasycarpum. 

Wild  Cherry,  Cerasus  serotina.  „.. 

Catalpa  (Western),  Catalpa  speciosa.  ^  Vb.KOKt,b.iM 

Tulip  Tree,  Liriodendron  tulipifera.  Norway  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa. 

Carolina  Poplar,  Populus  caroliniana.  Servian  Spruce,  Picea  Omorika. 

Cottonwood,  Populus  deltoides.  Scotch  Pine,  Pinus  sylvestris. 

Shrubs 

Red-twigged  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba.  Rosemary  Willow,  Salix  rosmarinifolia. 

Red  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera.  Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 

Purple  Osier,  Salix  purpurea.  Ninebark,  Spiraa  opulifolia. 

Pussy  Willow,  Salix  discolor.  Elderberry,  Sambucus  canadensis. 

Goat  Willow,  Salix  caprea.  Deutzia,  Deutzia,  Pride  of  Rochester. 

Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  coronarius. 


PLANTS  WITH  COLORED  BARK  141 

TREES  AND  SHRUBS  WITH  DISTINCTIVE 
COLORED  BARK 

During  the  Winter  when  all  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  are  devoid  of  foli- 
age, any  color  in  the  garden  is  indeed  a  welcome  addition.  Some  fine  effects 
can  be  obtained  by  using  some  of  the  following  items.  A  most  striking  instance 
is  the  planting  of  a  mass  of  Siberian  Dogwood  with  the  yellow-stemmed 
Willow  or  Dogwood;  against  a  carpet  of  snow  the  effect  is  indeed  worth  the 
effort.  Another  shrub  of  Winter  interest  is  the  Wing-bark  Euonymus,  with 
its  conspicuous  corky  ridges  along  the  branches,  and  sometimes  an  occasional 
cluster  of  orange  and  red  fruit  that  the  birds  have  overlooked. 

Trees  Shrubs 

Striped-bark  Maple,  Acer  pennsylvanicum.  Siberian  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  sibirica. 

Cherry  Birch,  Betula  nigra.  Green-stemmed  Dogwood,  C.  alba  viridissima. 

Do„o,  n.v^i,    D„^„i^ -f    „  Rsd  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera. 

Paper  Birch,  Betula  papyrifera.  Yellow-stemmed   Dogwood.   Cornus  stoloni- 
White  Birch,  Betula  alba.  fera  flaviramea. 

Aspen,  Populus  tremuloides.  Yellow  Globe  Flower,  Kerria  japonica. 

Sweet  Gum  (corky  bark).  Liquidambar  Sty-  ^'fstaaf"'""'^  Goldenbell.  Forsythia  virid- 


Red-leaved  Rose,  Rosa  rubrifolia. 


raciflua. 
Golden-bark  Willow.  Salix  vitellina  aurea.  Native  Rose,  Rosa  lucida. 

Bronze-bark  Willow,  Salix  vitellina  britzensis.       Native  Rose,  Rosa  nitida. 
Crimean  Linden.  Tilia  euchlora.  osissimr  ^°"'"^'"^"'='^  '^°'"'^'  ^°'^  "P'"" 

Yellow-bark  Linden.  Tilia  platyphyllos  aurea       Wing-bark  Euonymus  (corky  bark),  Euony- 
mus alatus. 


PLANTS  FOR  WITHSTANDING  CITY 
CONDITIONS 

It  must  not  be  understood  that  any  plants  or  trees  prefer  the  adverse  con- 
ditions that  are  prevalent  in  large  cities.  Indeed  it  is  only  the  most  vigorous 
and  adaptable  kinds  that  will  live  under  these  conditions,  which  include  lack  of 
water,  poor  soil,  and  a  prevalence  of  dust,  smoke  and  injurious  gases.  With 
these  facts  in  mind  it  will  at  once  be  realized  that  any  planting  in  the  city  must 
be  done  carefully  and  thoroughly.  Dig  a  large  hole  for  every  plant,  supply  the 
best  soil  that  can  be  obtained  and  some  well  rotted  manure,  and  preserve  every 
root.  The  foliage  can  be  washed  off  occasionally  by  playing  a  good  force  of 
water  over  the  plants;  and  be  on  the  lookout  for  insects  and  diseases.  In 
short,  everything  that  can  be,  should  be  done  to  overcome  or  mitigate  the 
adverse  conditions  under  which  the  city  planting  must  live. 

Trees — Deciduous 

Norway  Maple,  Acer  platanoides.  Green  Ash,  Fraxinus  viridis. 

Tree  of  Heaven,  Ailanthus  glandulosus.  Maidenhair  Tree,  Ginkgo  biloba. 

Horse  Chestnut,  ^sculus  Hippocastanum.  Button  Ball,  Platanus  orientalis. 

Cockspur  Thorn,  Crataegus  Crus-galli.  White  Willow,  Salix  alba. 

English  Hawthorn,  Crataegus  Oxycantha.  Pin  Oak,  Quercus  palustris. 

Hackberry,  Nettle  Tree,  Celtis  occidentalis.  European  Linden,  Tilia  europaea. 

White  Ash.  Fraxinus  americana.  Silver  Linden.  Tilia  tomentosa. 

Trees — Evergreens 

Nikko  Fir,  Abies  brachyphylla.  Scotch  Pine,  Pinus  sylvestris. 

Silver  Fir,  Abies  concolor.  Austrian  Pine,  Pinus  austriaca. 

Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana.  Japanese  Tree  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata. 

Colorado  Spruce,  Picea  pungens.  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis. 

Blue  Spruce,  Picea  pungens  Kosteri.  Sitka  Cypress.  Thuya  Standishii. 


142 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Deciduous  Shrubs 


Five-leaved  Angelica,  Aralia  pentaphylla. 
Hercules'  Club,  Aralia  spinosa. 
Japanese  Barberry.  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Japanese  Quince,  Cydonia  japonica. 
Siberian  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  sibirica. 
Red  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera. 
Yellow  Osier,  Cornus  stolonifera  flaviramea. 
Japanese  Red  Bud,  Cercis  japonica. 
Rough-leaved  Deutzia,  Deutzia  scabra. 
Dwarf  Deutzia,  Deutzia  gracilis. 
Deutzia,  Deutzia  Pride  of  Rochester. 
Lemoine's  Deutzia,  Deutzia  Lemoinei. 
American  Spindle  Tree,  Euonymus  amencana. 
Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  intermedia. 
Fortune's  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  Fortunei. 
Drooping  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 
Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  syriacus. 
Single  Hydrangea,  Hydrangea  paniculata. 
Double    Hydrangea,    Hydrangea    paniculata 

grandiflora. 
Yellow  Globe  Flower,  Kerria  japonica. 
Amoor  River  Privet,  Ligustrum  amurensis. 
Californian  Privet,  Ligustrum  ovalifolium. 


Regel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Ibota  Regelianura. 
Tartarian  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  tatarica. 
White  Globe  Flower,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides. 
Smoke  Bush,  Rhus  cotinus. 
Smooth  Sumach,  Rhus  glabra. 
Elderberry,  Sambucus  canadensis. 
Cut-leaf    Elderberry,    Sambucus    canadensis 

laciniata. 
Waterer's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer. 
Vanhoutte's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Vanhouttei. 
Ninebark,  Spiraea  opulifolia. 
Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 
Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 
Tamarisk,  Tamarix  africana  (and  others). 
Common  Lilac,  Syringa  vulgaris. 
Withe  Rod,  Viburnum  cassinoides. 
Wayfaring  Tree,  Viburnum  lantana. 
Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 
Highbush  Cranberry,  Viburnum  Opulus. 
Siebold's  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Sieboldii. 
Japanese   Snowball,    Viburnum    tomentosum 

plicatum. 
Weigelas,  Weigela  in  variety. 


Shrubs — 

Japanese  Holly,  Ilex  crenata. 

Pfitzer's  Juniper,  Juniperus  Pfitzenana. 

Trailing  Chinese  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis 

procumbens. 
Savin  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina.  _ 

Gray   Carpet  Juniper,   Juniperus  tamansci- 

folia.  ... 

Globe  Juniper,  Juniperus  virginiana  globosa. 
Swiss  Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana. 
Dwarf  Mountain  Pine,  P.  montana  Mughus. 


Evergreen 

Thread-branched  Cypress,  Retinispora  filifera. 

Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata. 

Dwarf  Japanese  Yew.  Taxus  cuspidata  brevi- 

folia. 
Dwarf  English  Yew,  Taxus  baccata  repandens. 
Globe  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis  globosa. 
Tom  Thumb  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis, 

Tom  Thumb. 
Rosenthal's  Arborvitae,  Thuya  Rosenthalli. 
Siberian  Arborvitae,  Thuya  sibirica. 


STREET  OR  AVENUE  TREES 

Just  as  in  the  case  of  city  planting,  every  possible  precaution  should  be 
taken  when  planting  trees  on  the  sidewalk,  to  give  them  the  best  soil  available, 
that  the  chances  of  success  may  be  increased.  The  average  street  is  approxi- 
mately seventy-five  feet  between  buildings,  and  the  trees  should  be  planted 
from  thirty-five  feet  to  forty  feet  apart,  alternating  on  each  side  of  the  road. 
On  wide  streets,  which  afford  one  hundred  feet  or  more  between  buildings, 
this  method  of  planting  is  optional,  but  the  street  is  more  evenly  shaded  if 
the  trees  are  alternated.  On  the  wider  streets,  forty-five  feet  or  even  fifty 
feet  is  not  too  much  to  allow  between  the  trees.  Where  wires  are  strung  along 
the  street,  trees  that  have  a  long,  clean  bole,  such  as  the  Elm,  and  some  Oaks, 
should  be  used,  that  is,  such  as  will  not  be  damaged  by,  nor  interfere  with,  the 
wires. 

Average  Streets  (75  feet  wide) 

Norway  Maple,  Acer  platanoides. 
Pin  Oak,  Quercus  palustris. 
Hackberry,  Celtis  occidentalis. 
Green  Ash,  Fraxinus  viridis. 
Maidenhair  Tree,  Ginkgo  biloba. 
Button  Ball,  Platanus  orientalis. 
Sweet  Gum,  Liquidambar. 
European  Linden,  Tilia  europsea. 


Wide  Streets  (90  feet  or  more) 

Norway  Maple,  Acer  platanoides. 
Sugar  Maple,  Acer  saccharum. 
Button  Ball,  Platanus  orientalis. 
Red  Oak,  Quercus  rubra. 
Maidenhair  Tree,  Ginkgo  biloba. 
Silver  Linden,  Tilia  tomentosa. 
American  Elm,  Ulmus  americana. 
Scotch  Elm,  UJmus  montana. 


PLANTS  FOR  FOUNDATION  PLANTINGS 


143 


PLANTS  SUITABLE  FOR  FOUNDATION  PLANT- 
INGS UNDER  GENERAL  CONDITIONS 

In  selecting  shrubs  for  base  planting,  the  main  consideration  should  be 
the  foliage  effect,  as  well  as  the  general  character  of  growth.  These  shrubs 
should  be  well  furnished  with  graceful  branches,  rather  than  a  few  thick  stems. 
Fortunately  many  such  shrubs  also  produce  beautiful  flowers  so  that  a  founda- 
tion can  be  made  effective  indeed.  Should  it  be  necessary  to  plant  deeply 
(that  is,  more  than  one  row)  it  is  important  that  the  shrubs  that  are  taller 
at  maturity  should  be  placed  in  the  background;  to  facilitate  selection 
the  following  list  is  tabulated  according  to  the  size  of  the  fully  grown  shrubs. 
For  Winter  effect  the  evergreens  are  very  desirable,  but  it  is  not  at  all  neces- 
sary to  have  a  solid  banking  of  them.  In  fact  a  planting  consisting  of  a  combina- 
tion of  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens  is,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  to  be  pre- 
ferred. This  is  because  evergreens  are  inclined  to  be  too  stiff  and  formal, 
whereas  deciduous  flowering  shrubs  have  informal  outlines,  which  soften  the 
sharp  lines  of  the  house,  which  is  the  real  object  of  such  a  planting. 


Large  Shrubs  (For  background) 


DECIDUOUS 

Allspice,  Calycanthus  floridus. 
Deutzia,  Deutzia  Pride  of  Rochester. 
Witch  Hazel,  Hamamelis  virginiana. 
Scentless    Mock   Orange,   Philadelphus    ino- 
dorous. 
Common  Privet,  Ligustrum  vulgaris. 
Persian  Lilac,  Syringa  persica. 
Arrowwood,  Viburnum  dentatum. 
Wayfaring  Tree,  Viburnum  lantanum. 
Sheepberry,  Viburnum  lentago. 
Siebold's  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Sieboldii. 
Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  intermedia. 
Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  viridissima. 


Rose  of  Sharon,  Hibiscus  syriacus. 
Japanese  Snowball,  Viburnum   tomentosum 
plicatum. 

EVERGREEN 

Chinese  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis. 

Red  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana. 

Blue  Virginian  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana 

glauca. 
Schott's  Cedar,  Juniperus  virginiana  Schottii. 
Swiss  Stone  Pine,  Pinus  Cembra. 
Thread-branched    Cypress,    Retinispora   fili- 

fera. 
Japanese  Yew  Tree,  Taxus  cuspidata  capitata. 
American  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis. 
Sitka  Cypress,  Thuya  Standishii. 


Medium  Sized  Shrubs 


DECIDUOUS 


Japanese  Barberry,  Berberis  Thunbergii. 
Variegated  Dogwood,  Cornus  alba  variegata. 
Globe  Flower,  Kerria  japonica. 
Lemoine's  Deutzia,  Deutzia  Lemoinei. 
Morrow's  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Morrowii. 
White  Globe  Flower,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Golden  Mock  Orange,  Philadelphus  coronarius 

aureus. 
Fine-leaved  Spiraea,  Spiraea  arguta. 
Thunberg's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Thunbergii. 
Bridal  Wreath,  Spiraea  prunifolia,  fl.  pi. 
Vanhoutte's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  Vanhouttei. 
Snowberry,  Symphoricarpos  racemosus. 
Coral  Berry,  Symphoricarpos  vulgare. 
Lemoine's     Mock    Orange,     Philadelphus 

Lemoinei. 
Round-leaved  Spiraea,  Spiraea  rotundifolia. 
Regel's  Privet,  Ligustrum  Regelianum. 
Wright's  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Wrightii. 
Withe  Rod,  Viburnum  cassinoides. 
Scented  Guelder  Rose,  Viburnum  Carlesii. 
Fontanesia,  Fontanesia  Fortunei. 
Drooping  Golden  Bell,  Forsythia  suspensa. 
Lace  Bush,  Stephanandra  flexuosa. 


EVERGREEN 


Grecian  Juniper,  Juniperus  excelsa  stricta. 

Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana. 

Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  cuspidata. 

Graceful  Hemlock,  Tsuga  canadensis  gracilis. 

Mountain  Laurel,  Kalmia  latifolia. 

Hybrid  Rhododendrons,  Rhododendron 
catawbiense  hybrids. 

Savin  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina. 

Pfitzer's  Juniper,  Juniperus  Pfitzeriana. 

Sargent's  Hemlock,  Tsuga  Sargentii  pendula. 

Holly-leaved  Mahonia,  Mahonia  japonica. 

Cripp's  Golden  Cypress,  Retinispora  obtusa 
Crippsii. 

Graceful  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  ob- 
tusa gracilis. 

Dotted  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  punc- 
tatum. 

Ink  Berry,  Ilex  glabra. 

Fire  Thorn,  Crataegus  Pyracantha. 

Japanese  Andromeda,  Andromeda  japonica. 


144  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Dwarf  Shrubs 

DECIDUOUS  Maxwell's  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  Maxwellii. 

Dwarf  Deutzia,  Deutzia  gracilis.  Pigmy  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  pygmaea. 

Zenobia,  Andromeda  speciosa.  Spreading  Spruce.   Picea   excelsa   Clanbrasi- 

Sweet  Fern,  Comptonia  asplenifolium.  ^  liana.  „     .   . 

Fortune's  Spiraa.  Spiraea  callosa.  Compact  Japan  Cypress,  Retinispora  obtusa 
Fortune's  Spirsea,  Spiraea  callosa  alba.  compacta. 

Waterer's  Spiraea.  Spira!a  Anthony  Waterer.  Spreading  English  Yew.  Taxus  baccata  re- 
Yellow  Root,  Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia.  pandens. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  prolificum.  Canadian  Yew,  Taxus  canadensis. 

St.  John's  Wort,  Hypericum  aureum.  Dwarf  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis,  Tom 
Dwarf  Viburnum,  Viburnum  Opulus  nanus.  Thumb. 

Dwarf    Mock   Orange,    Philadelphus   micro-  Dwarf  Arborvitffi,  Thuya  occidentalis.  Little 

phyllus.  Gem. 

Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Mezereum.  Prostrate  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis. 

Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Genkwa.  Prostrate  Rose  Box.  Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

perpusilla. 

EVERGREEN  Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Cneorum. 

Compact  Chinese   Golden  Arborvitae,   Biota  Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Boule  de  Niege. 

orientalis  compacta  aurea.  Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Mont  Blanc. 

Compact  Chinese  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis  Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Glennyana. 

compacta.  Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Blandyana. 

^?lr,Sfn^^r,L  ^""'P"'     ^""'P""^    ^^^'""^  Hybrid  Rhododcndron,  Kissena. 

tamanscifolia.  ■'  '  ,      ,        .     ,. 

Chinese  Trailing  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis  Japanese  Spurge,  Pachysandra  terminalis. 

procumbens.  Chinese  Barberry,  Berberis  verruculosa. 

GROUND  COVERS 

There  are  many  uses  for  this  class  of  plant,  or  rather  many  places  where 
such  plants  can  be  used  for  the  same  purpose,  namely,  to  cover  the  ground. 
Sometimes  it  is  difficult  to  maintain  grass  in  a  certain  spot,  or  it  may  be  in- 
convenient to  cut  it;  also  the  bare  earth  between  the  shrubbery  should 
be  covered.  Again,  a  planting  may  be  desired  in  a  place  where  tall  shrubbery 
would  break  a  good  view.  For  all  such  instances  the  plants  recommended 
in  the  following  list  are  particularly  adapted. 

Shady  Places 
evergreen 

Partridge  Berry,  Mitchellia  repens.  Sharp-leaved  Bittersweet,  Euonymus  acutus. 

Periwinkle,  Vinca  minor.  Small-leaved  Bittersweet,  Euonymus  radicans 
Japanese  Spurge,  Pachysandra  terminalis.  minima. 

English  Ivy,  Hedera  helix.  Creeping  Euonymus,  Euonymus  radicans. 

Creeping  Mahonia,  Mahonia  repens.  Japanese  Yew,  Taxus  canadensis. 

Evergreen  Bittersweet,  Euonymus  vegetus.  Wintergreen,  Gaultheria  procumbens. 

Evergreen  Bittersweet,  Euonymus  obovatus.  Low  Blueberry,  Vaccinium  pennsyVvanicum 

HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS 

Candytuft,  Iberis  sempervirens.  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Convallaria  majalis. 

Bloodroot,  Sanguinaria  canadensis.  Forget-me-not,  Myosotis  palustris. 

Bugle,  Ajuga  reptans.  Polypody  Fern,  Polypodium  vulgare. 

Creeping  Speedwell,  Veronica  repens.  Coltsfoot,  Tussilago  Farfara. 

Anion's  Speedwell,  Veronica  Allionii.  Spring  Beauty,  Claytonia  virginica. 

Money  Wort,  Lysimachia  nummularia.  Jacob's  Ladder,  Polemonium  reptans. 
Ground  Ivy,  Nepeta  glechoma. 

In  Sunny  Places 
evergreen 

Heather,  Erica  vulgaris.  Scaly-leaved  Juniper,  Juniperus  squamata. 

Heath,  Erica  carnea.  Gray     Carpet     Juniper,     Juniperus    Sabina 
Wintergreen,  Gaultheria  procumbens.  tamariscifolia. 

Bearberry,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-ursi.  Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  canadensis  de- 
Japanese  Spurge,  Pachysandra  terminalis.  pressa. 

Trailing  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina  prostrata.  Sand  Myrtle,  Dendrium  buxifolium. 


GROUND  COVERS 


145 


HERBACEOUS 
Rock  Cress,  Arabis  alpina. 
Wooly  Yarrow,  Achillea  tomentosa 
Snow-in-Summer,  Cerastum  tomentosum. 
Rock  Rose,  Helianthemum,  all  varieties. 
Lead  Wort,  Plumbago  Larpentae. 
Bluet,  Houstonia  ccerulea. 
Moss  Pink,  Phlox  subulata. 
Creeping  Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophilia  repens. 
Creeping  Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophilia  ceras- 

toides. 
Stone  Crop,  Sedum  acre. 
Stone  Crop,  Sedum  album. 
Stone  Crop,  Sedum  sexangulare. 


PERENNIALS 

Stone  Crop,  Sedum  stoloniferum. 
Arenaria,  Arenaria  casspitosa. 
Sandwort,  Arenaria  balearica. 
Trailing  Arbutus,  Epigaea  repens. 
Calystegia,  Calystegia  pubescens. 
Candytuft,  Iberis  sempervirens. 
Creeping  Phlox,  Phlox  stolonifera. 
Creeping  Buttercup,  Ranunculus  repens. 
Thyme,  Thymus  Serpyllum. 
Wooly  Thyme,  Thymus  lanuginosus. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  AUionii. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  Teucrium. 


VINES  FOR  VARIOUS  PURPOSES 


Flowering 

Silver  Vine,  Actinidia  arguta. 
Trumpet  Vine,  Bignonia  radicans. 
Large-flowered   Trumpet  Vine,    Bignonia 

grandiflora. 
Small-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  paniculata. 
Large-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  Jackmannii 
White-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  Henryi. 
Rose-flowered    Clematis,    Clematis   Ville   de 

Lyon. 
Double  White  Clematis,  Clematis  Duchess  of 

Edinburgh. 
Everlasting  Pea,  Lathyrus  latifolius. 
Japanese    Honeysuckle,    Lonicera    japonica 

Halliana. 
Japanese  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  Hechrottii. 
Polygonum,  Polygonum  baldschuanicum. 
Roses,  Rosa  Wichuraiana,  varieties. 
Roses,  Rosa  multiflora,  varieties. 
Wistaria,  Wisteria  multijuga. 
Wistaria,  Wisteria  sinensis. 
Climbing     Hydrangea,     Schizophragma     hy- 

drangeoides. 

With  Ornamental  Fruits 

Silver  Vine,  Actinidia  arguta. 

Akebia,  Akebia  quinata. 

Akebia,  Ampelopsis  heterophylla. 


Bittersweet,  Celastrus  scandens. 
Oriental  Bittersweet,  Celastrus  orbiculatus. 
Small-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  paniculata. 
Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  halimifolium. 
Chinese  Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  chinense. 
Chinese    Matrimony    Vine,    Solanum    dulca- 
mara. 
Glory  Vine,  Vitis  coignetiae. 

For  Foliage  Effect 

Woodbine,  Ampelopsis  quinquefolia. 
Boston  Ivy,  Ampelopsis  Veitchii. 
Low's  Ivy,  Ampelopsis  Lowii. 
Akebia,  Akebia  quinata. 
Glory  Vine,  Vitis  coignetiae. 
Silver  Vine,  Actinidia  arguta. 
Japanese  Honeysuckle,  Lonicea  japonica. 
Dutchman's  Pipe,  Aristolochia  Sipho. 
Matrimony  Vine,  Lycium  halimifolium. 
Kudzu  Vine,  Pueraria  Thunbergianum. 
Silk  Vine,  Periploca  graeca. 

Of  Quick  Growth 

Dutchman's  Pipe,  Aristolochia  Sipho. 
Kudzu  Vine,  Pueraria  Thunbergianum. 
Polygonum,  Polygonum  baldschuanicum. 
Small-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  paniculata 
Hop  Vine,  Humulus  japonica. 
Moon  Vine,  Ipomcea  pandurata. 


Self  Clinging 

(By  means  of  aerial  rootlets  that  adhere  to  brick,  etc.) 

Ampelopsis,  Ampelopsis  Engelmannii.  Evergreen    Bittersweet,  Evonymus  radicans 

Low's  Ivy,  Ampelopsis  Lowii. 
Boston  Ivy,  Ampelopsis  Veitchii. 
Trumpet  Vine,  Bignonia  radicans. 
Euonymus,  Evonymus  radicans. 


vegetus. 
English  Ivy,  Hedera  helix. 
Climbing  Hydrangea,  Schizophragma  hydran- 

gioides. 


Climbing  by  means  of  tendrils  and  leaf  stalks 


Silver  Vine.  Actinidia  arguta. 
Woodbine,  Ampelopsis  quinquefolia. 
Dutchman's  Pipe,  Aristolochia  Sipho. 
Bittersweet,  Celastrus  scandens. 
Small-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  paniculata 


Japanese  Honeysuckle,  Lonicera  japonica. 
Silk  Vine,  Periploca  graeca. 
Kudzu  Vine,  Pueraria  Thunbergiana. 
Wistaria,  Wisteria  multijuga. 
Wiataria,  Wisteria  sinensis. 


Large-flowered  Clematis,  Clematis  Jackmanii  and  varieties. 


146 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


AQUATICS  OR  WATER  PLANTS 

For  water  over  two  feet  deep  the  Water  Lilies  should  be  used;  of  these 
there  are  a  large  number  of  varieties  in  various  colors.  These  are  generally 
best  planted  in  a  shallow  basket  which  is  let  down  in  the  pool  wherever  desired. 
A  better  effect  can  be  obtained  if  a  few  rather  than  many  plants  are  used, 
as  in  the  latter  case  the  surface  of  the  water  is  liable  to  be  practically  covered 
with  foliage,  which  eliminates  the  possibility  of  reflections.  Other  plants 
mentioned  in  this  list  should  be  planted  around  the  edge  of  the  pool  or  in  it 
to  a  depth  of  one  foot  or  less  of  water.  Wherever  possible  give  the  plants  a 
good  start  by  supplying  them  with  good  soil,  then,  after  they  are  established, 
very  little  care  will  be  necessary. 

Variegated    Sweet    Flag,    Acorus    japonicus 

variegatus. 
Sweet  Flag,  Acorus  calamus. 
Flowering  Rush,  Butomus  umbellatus. 
Water  Arum,  Calla  palustris. 
Sedge,  Carex  lurida. 
Sedge,  Carex  vulgaris. 
Umbrella  Plant,  Cyperus  alternifolius. 
Paper  Plant,  Cyperus  papyrus. 
Water  Hyacinth,  Eichhornia  crassipes  major. 
Yellow  Flag,  Iris  pseudacorus. 
Common  Blue  Flag,  Iris  versicolor. 
Jussia,  Jussiaea  longifolia. 
Water  Snowflake,  Limnanthemum  indicum. 
Water  Poppy,  Limnocharis  Humboldtii. 
Parrot's  Feather,   Myriophyllum  proserpina- 

coides. 


Swamp  Loosestrife,  Nesaea  verticillata. 
Arrow  Arum,  Peltandra  virginica. 
Pickerel  Weed,  Pontederia  cordata. 
Arrowhead,  Sagittaria  japonica,  fl.  pi. 
Lizard's  Tail,  Saururus  cernuus. 
Cat  Tail,  Typha  latifolia. 
Wild  Rice,  Zizania  aquatica. 
Water  Lilies  (white),  Nympheea  alba  candi- 

dissima. 
Water  Lilies  (rosy  red),  Nymphaea  gloriosa. 
Water  Lilies  (yellow),  Nymphaea  Marliacea 

chromatella. 
Water    Lilies    (pink),    Nymphaea    Marliacea 

rosea. 
Water    Lilies     (white,    native),     Nymphaea 

odorata. 


PLANTS  FOR  ROCK  GARDENS 


Shrubs — Deciduous 

Garland  Flower,  Daphne  Genkwa. 
Mazereon  Pink,  Daphne  Mezereum. 
Mezereon  Pink,  Daphne  Mezereum  alba. 
Aaron's  Beard,  Hypericum  calycinum. 
Shrubby  Cinquefoil,  Potentilla  fruticosa. 
Three-leaved  Cinquefoil,  Potentilla  tridentata. 
Korean  Rose,  Rosa  Jackii. 
Dwarf    Bush   Cranberry,    Viburnum  Opulus 

nana. 
Fortune's  Spiraea,  Spiraea  callosa. 


Shrubs — Evergreens 

Bear  Berry,  Arctostaphylos  Uva-ursi. 
Evergreen  Azalea,  Azalea  amcena. 
Japanese  Azalea,  Azalea  Hinodigiri. 
Compact  Chinese  Arborvitae,  Biota  orientalis 

compacta. 
Trailing  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis. 
Trailing  Rose  Box,  Cotoneaster  horizontalis 

perpusilla. 
Trailing  Barberry,  Berberis  verruculosa. 
Sand  Myrtle,  Dendrium  buxifelium. 
Daphne,  Daphne  Cneorum. 
Heath,  Erica  carnea. 
Heather,  Erica  vulgaris. 
Euonymus,  Euonymus  obovata. 
Euonymus,  Euonymus  radicans. 
Euonymus,  Euonymus  radicans  acutus. 
Euonymus,  Euonymus  radicans  minimus. 
Wintergreen,  Gaultheria  procumbens. 
Small-leaved   Japanese    Holly,    Ilex   crenata 

microphylla. 


Trailing  Canadian  Juniper,  Juniperus  cana- 
densis depressa. 
Prostrate  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina  prostrata. 
Chinese  Trailing  Juniper,  Juniperus  chinensis 

procumbens. 
Scaly-leaved  Juniper,  Juniperus  squamata. 
Gray  Carpet  Juniper,  Juniperus  Sabina  tam- 

ariscifolia. 
Creeping  Mahonia,  Mahonia  aquifolia  repens 
Maxwell's  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  Maxwellii. 
Pigmy  Spruce,  Picea  excelsa  pygmaea. 
Spreading  Spruce,   Picea  excelsa  Clanbrasi- 

liana. 
Dwarf  Mountain  Pine,  Pinus  montana  Mug- 

hus. 
Dwarf  Japanese  Cypress,  Retinispora  obtusa 

compacta. 
Short-leaved   Japan   Yew,   Taxus   cuspidata 

brevifolia. 
Spreading  English  Yew,  Taxus  baccata  repan- 

dens. 
Dwarf  Arborvitae,  Thuya  occidentalis,  Little 

Gem,  Tom  Thumb. 
Wilson's  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  Wil- 

sonii. 
Rusty  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  ferru- 

gineum. 
Myrtle-leaved     Rhododendron,     Rhododen- 
dron myrtifolium. 
Hybrid  Rhododendron,  Rhododendron  Boule 

de  Niege,  Mont  Blanc. 
Weeping  Hemlock  (grafted  low),  Tsuga  Sar- 

gentii  pendula. 
Partridge  Berry,  Mitchellia  repens. 
Pachystima,  Pachystima  Canbyi. 


PLANTS  FOR  ROCK  GARDENS 


147 


Herbaceous  Perennials 


Wooly  Yarrow,  Achillea  tomentosa. 

Bird's  Eye,  Adonis  amurensis. 

Ox  Eye,  Adonis  vernalis. 

Bugle  (Geneva),  Ajuga  genevensis. 

Bugle,  Ajuga  reptans 

Golden  Tuft,  Alyssum  saxatile. 

Androsace,  Androsace  sarmentosa  Chumbyi. 

Alpine  Columbines,  Aquilegia  alpina. 

Dwarf  Columbine,  Aquilegia  fiabellata  nana. 

Rock  Cress,  Arabis  alpina. 

Sandwort,  Arenaria  balearica. 

Sandwort,  Arenaria  montana. 

Thrift,  Armeria  maritima. 

Arnebia,  Arnebia  echioides. 

Sweet  Woodruff,  Asperula  odorata. 

Alpine  Aster,  Aster  alpina. 

Alpine  Aster,  Aster  ptarmicoides. 

Alpine  Aster,  Aster  subcaeruleus. 

False  Wall  Cress,  Aubrietia  deltoidea. 

False  Wall  Cress,  Calamintha  alpina. 

Calystegia,  Calystegia  pubescens,  fl.  p!. 

Harebell,  Campanula  carpatica. 

Blue  Bell,  Campanula  rotundifolia. 

Snow-in-Summer,  Cerastium  tomentosum. 

Arctic  Daisy,  Chrysanthemum  arcticum. 

Lily  of  the  Valley,  Convallaria  majalis. 

Crosswirt,  Crucianella  stylosa. 

Chinese  Larkspur,  Delphinium  chinense. 

Maiden  Pink,  Dianthus  deltoides. 

Shooting  Star,  Dodecatheon  Media. 

Whitlow  Grass,  Draba  fladnizensis. 

Dragon's  Head,  Dracocephalum  grandiflorum. 

Trailing  Arbutus,  Epigsea  repens. 

Epimedium,  Epimedium  alpina. 

Epimedium,  Epimedium  diphyllum  roseum. 

Epimedium,    Epimedium    macranthum    vio- 
laceum. 

Erigeron,  Erigeron  glabellus. 

Bottle  Gentian,  Gentiana  Andrewsii. 

Globe  Daisy,  Globularia  trichosantha. 

Baby's  Breath,  Gysophylla  cerastioides. 

Baby's  Breath,  Gypsophylla  repens. 

Rock  Rose,  Helianthemum  vulgare  and  vari- 
eties. 

Christmas  Rose,  Helleborus  niger. 

Liver  Leaf,  Hepatica  triloba. 

Alum  Root,  Heuchera  brizoides. 

Coral  Bells,  Heuchera  sanguinea. 

Hutchinsia,  Hutchinsia  alpina. 

Gold  Flower,  Hypericum  Moserianum. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  gibraltica. 

Candytuft,  Iberis  sempervirens. 

Crested  Iris,  Iris  cristata. 

Dwarf  Iris,  Iris  pumila  and  varieties. 

Spotted  Nettle,  Lamium  maculatum. 

Linum,  Linum  perenne. 

Linum,  Linum  perenne  album. 

Ragged  Robin,  Lychnis  Flos-cuculi. 

Haage's  Lychnis 


German  Catchfly,  Lychnis  Viscaria  splendens. 

Moneywirt,  Lysimachia  nummularia. 

Forget-me-not,  Myosotis  alpestris. 

Ground  Ivy,  Nepeta  Glechoma. 

Ground  Ivy,  Nepeta  Mussinii. 

White  Cup,  Nierembergia  rivularis. 

Dwarf  Evening  Primrose,  CEnotheramissouri- 

ensis. 
Cactus  (Prickly  Pear),  Opuntia  arenaria. 
Cactus  (Prickly  Pear),  Opuntia  Camanchica. 
Cactus  (Prickly  Pear),  Opuntia  Rafinesquii. 
Cactus  (Prickly  Pear),  Opuntia  polyantha. 
Iceland  Poppy,  Papaver  nudicaule. 
Creeping  Phlox,  Phlox  amoena. 
Canadian  Phlox,  Phlox  divaricata. 
Perry's  Phlox,  Phlox  divaricata  Laphami. 
Perry's  Phlox,  Phlox  ovata. 
Moss  Pink,  Phlox  subulata. 
Moss  Pink,  Phlox  stolonifera. 
Polemonium,  Polemonium  reptans. 
Leadwort,  Plumbago  Larpentae. 
Flowering  Moss,  Pyxidanthera  barbulata. 
Cowslip,  Primula  veris. 
Selfheal,  Prunella  grandiflora. 
Lungwort,  Pulmonaria  angustifolia  azurea. 
Bethlehem  Sage,  Pulmonaria  saccharata. 
Buttercup,  Ranuculus  bulbosus,  fl.  pi. 
Creeping  Buttercup,  Ranunculus  repens. 
Rhexia,  Rhexia  virginica. 
Bloodroot,  Sanguinaria  canadensis. 
Rock  Soapwort,  Saponaria  ocymoides. 
Saxifrage,  Saxifraga  pedmontana. 
Saxifrage,  Saxifraga  umbrosa. 
Scutellaria,  Scutellaria  baicalensis  ccelestina. 
Stonecrop  (yellow),  Sedum  acre. 
Stonecrop  (white),  Sedum  album. 
Stonecrop  (white),  Sedum  Middendorfianum. 
Stonecrop,  (white),  Sedum  pulchellum. 
Stonecrop  (white),  Sedum  sexangulare. 
Stonecrop  (white),  Sedum  Sieboldii. 
Stonecrop  (white),  Sedum  stoloniferum. 
House  Leek,  Sempervivum. 
Shortia,  Shortia  galacifolia. 
Woundwort,  Stachy's  grandiflora. 
American  Germanda,  Teucrium  canadensis. 
Dwarf  Meadow  Rue,  Thalictrum  minus. 
Thyme,  Thmus  citriodorus. 
Mountain  Thyme,  Thymus  sepyllum. 
Wooly-leaved  Thyme,  Thymus  lanuginosus. 
Tunica,  Tunica  saxifraga. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  AUionii. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  gentianoides. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  repens. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  spicata  erica. 
Speedwell,  Veronica  Teucrium  rupestris. 
Horned  Violet,  Viola  cornuta. 
Bird-foot  Violet,  Viola  pedatum. 
Common  Yellow  Violet,  Viola  pubescens. 
Lychnis  Haageana. 


Annuals 
While  it  is  possible  to  secure  a  good  succession  of  bloom  from  early  Spring 
till  late  Autumn  with  herbaceous  perennials,  it  is  to  annuals  we  look  for  a 
profusion  of  flowers  in  Midsummer.  The  ease  with  which  annuals  can  be 
grown,  as  well  as  their  beauty  and  thankfulness,  has  made  them  almost  indis- 
pensable in  garden  making.  Many  perennials,  after  flowering,  leave  a  practi- 
cally bare  spot  in  the  border,  which  can  be  conveniently  filled  in  with  annuals 
so  that  the  border  is  full  of  color  throughout  the  season.     When  convenient, 


148  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

and  where  space  is  available,  seeds  can  be  sown  and  the  plants  thinned  out, 
but  plants  started  in  pots  are  comparatively  inexpensive  and  can  be  bought 
in  the  quantities  needed,  and  set  out  immediately.  A  border  devoted  entirely 
to  annuals  is  a  joy  to  the  owner  all  the  season,  especially  if  he  or  she  does  the 
planting.  Because  of  the  large  number  of  annuals  available,  in  every  possible 
form,  color  and  texture,  no  attempt  will  be  made  here  to  list  them.  The 
reader  is  referred  to  other  books  dealing  particularly  and  in  detail  with  these 
subjects;  for  example,  "The  Little  Book  of  Annuals,"  by  Alfred  C.  Hottes. 


SUCCESSION  OF  BLOOM  IN  FLOWERING 
SHRUBS 

While  shrubs  are  planted  mainly  for  foliage  efTect,  it  is  a  decided  advantage 
to  have  a  continual  display  of  flowers  from  early  Spring  until  late  Fall,  and  the 
following  table  is  submitted  to  make  this  possible.  By  comparing  notes  taken 
from  year  to  year  the  author  has  found  that  shrubs  do  not  consistently  follow 
the  same  order  of  bloom  each  year.  For  instance,  one  year  the  Shadbush  will 
be  in  full  bloom  a  week  or  ten  days  before  the  Starry  Magnolia  opens,  while 
another  year  the  latter  will  precede  by  some  days;  sometimes  the  Japanese 
Quince  leads  the  Golden  Bell,  but  the  following  year  the  order  may  be  reversed, 
etc.  The  actual  date  of  blooming  in  the  same  place  also  differs  considerably 
from  year  to  year,  dependent  of  course  upon  weather  conditions,  but  these 
dififerences  will  not  interfere  with  a  general  selection  made  for  continual  bloom. 

Common  Name  Botanical  Name  Dominant  Color 

Japanese  Witch  Hazel Hamamelis  japonica ....    '. Deep  yellow 

Blooms  sometimes  late  in  February  but  generally  late  in  March. 

April 

Common  Name  Botanical  Name  Dominant  Color 

Garland  Flower Daphne  Mezereum Light  purple 

White  Garland  Flower Daphne  Mezereum  album Creamy  white 

Cornehan  Cherry Cornus  mas Yellow 

Golden  Bell Forsy thia  intermedia Yellow 

Fortune's  Golden  Bell Forsythia  Fortunei Yellow 

Drooping  Golden  Bell Forsythia  suspensa Yellow 

Japanese  Quince Cydonia  japonica Scarlet 

Starry  Magnolia Magnolia  stellata White 

Standish's  Honeysuckle Lonicera  Standishi  i White 

Fragrant  Honeysuckle Lonicera  f ragrantissima White 

Early  May 

Shad  Bush Amelanchier  canadensis White 

Red  Bud Cercis  canadensis Rosy  purple 

Tamarisk Tamarix  aestivalis Pink 

Bridal  Wreath Spirsea  prunifolia,  fl.  pi White 

Flowering  Plum Prunus  triloba Pink 

Wild  Azalea Azalea  Vaseyi Light  pink 

Flowering  Peach Prunus  persica,  fl.  pi Various 

Blue-fruited  Honeysuckle Lonicera  coerulea White 

Fine-leaved  Spiraea Spiraea  arguta White 

Thunberg's  Spiraea Spiraea  Thunbergii White 

Wild  Currant Ribes  aureum Yellow 

Garland  Flower Daphne  Cneorum Pink 

Soulange's  Magnolia Magnolia  Soulangeana Rose  pink 

Japanese  Cherry Cerasus  serrulata Pink  and  white 

Lilac Syringa  obiata Lavender 

Rhodora Azalea  canadensis Purple 

Beach  Plum Prunus  maritima White 

Flowering  Almond Prunus  Amygdalus White  and  pink 


BLOOMING  TABLE  OF  SHRUBS  149 

Middle  May 

Common  Name  Botanical  Name  Dominant  Color 

Flowering  Dogwood Cornus  florida White 

Pink  Dogwood Cornus  florida  rubra Pink 

White  Globe  Flower Rhodotypos  kerrioides White 

Flowering  Crab  Apple Pyrus  floribunda Pink 

Parkman's  Crab Pyrus  Parkmannii Pink 

Lenne's  Magnolia Magnolia  Lennei Reddish  purple 

Red  Elderberry Sambucus  racemosus White 

Wayfaring  Tree Viburnum  lantana White 

Hobble  Bush Viburnum  alnifolium White 

Japanese  Azalea Azalea  Kaempferi Brick  red 

Scented  Guelder  Rose Viburnum  Carlesii Blush 

Vanhoutte's  Spiraea Spiraea  Vanhouttei White 

Pinxter  Flower Azalea  nudiflora Pink 

Yellow  Globe  Flower Kerria  japonica Yellow 

Late  May 

Hawthorn Crataegus  Oxyacantha White  and  pink 

Paul's  Scarlet  Thorn Crataegus  Oxyacantha  Paulii Scarlet 

Scarlet  Thorn Crataegus  coccinea White 

Deutzia  (Lemoine's) Deutzia  Lemoinei White 

Dwarf  Deutzia Deutzia  gracilis White 

Pearl  Bush Exochorda  grandiflora White 

Job's  Tears Staphylea  colchica Creamy  white 

Xanthoceras Xanthoceras  sorbifolia White 

Snowdrop  Tree Halesia  tetraptera White 

Morrow's  Honeysuckle Lonicera  Morrowii White 

Tartarian  Honeysuckle Lonicera  tatarica White  and  pink 

Reeve's  Spiraea Spiraea  Reevesiana White 

Lilac Syringa  vulgaris White  and  purple 

Persian  Lilac Syringa  persica White  and  lavender 

Siberian  Pea  Tree Caragana  arborescens Yellow 

Snowball Viburnum  Opulus  sterile White 

Black  Haw Viburnum  prunifolium White 

Wright's  Viburnum Viburnum  Wrightii White 

Bechtel's  Crab Pyrus  ioensis  Bechtelii Pink 

Single  Japan  Snowball Viburnum  tomentosum White 

Chokeberry Pyrus  nigra White 

Red  Chokeberry Pyrus  arbutifolia White 

Rouen  Lilac Syringa  rothomagensis Deep  lavender 

Ghent  Azalea Azalea  pontica Various 

Holland  Azaleas Azalea  mollis Flame  colors 

Early  June 

Siebold's  Viburnum Viburnum  Sieboldii White 

Japanese  Snowball Viburnum  tomentosum  plicatum White 

White  Fringe Chionanthus  virginicus White 

Flame  Azalea Azalea  calendulacea Orange 

Highbush  Cranberry Viburnum  Opulus White 

Red-twigged  Dogwood Cornus  alba White 

Cockspur  Thorn Crataegus  Crus-galli White 

Harrison's  Rose Rosa  "Harrison's  Yellow" Yellow 

Japanese  Rose Rosa  rugosa Red  and  white 

Sheepberry Viburnum  lentago White 

Hungarian  Lilac Syringa  Josikaea Rosy  purple 

Sweet  Leaf Sy mplocus  crataegoides White 

Lilac Syringa  villosa Lavender 

Weigela Weigela  floribunda Pink 

Weigela Weigela  amabilis  and  others Various 

Scotch  Rose Rosa  spinosissima Yellow 

Meadow  Rose Rosa  blanda Pink 

Middle  June 

Mock  Orange Philadelphus  coronarius White 

Deutzia Deutzia,  Pride  of  Rochester Blush 

Rough-leaved  Deutzia Deutzia  scabra White 

Lemoine's  Mock  Orange Philadelphus  Lemoinei White 

Tree  Azalea Azalea  arborescens White 

Ninebark Spiraea  opulifolia White 

Withe  Rod Viburnum  cassinoides White 

Bladder  Senna Colutea  arborescens Yellow 


150  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

Middle  June — continued 

Common  Name  Botanical  Name  Dominant  Color 

Maple-leaved  Viburnum Viburnum  acerifolium White 

Japanese  Tree  Lilac Syringa  japonica Pale  lavender 

Rose  Acacia Robinia  hispida  rosea Pink 

Japanese  Storax Styrax  japonica White 

French  Tamarisk Tamarix  gallica Pink 

Sweet  Briar Rosa  rubiginosa Blush 

Wild  Rose Rosa  nitida Pink 

Japanese  Dogwood Cornus  Kousa White 

Washington  Thorn Crataegus  cordata White 

Allspice Calycanthus  floridus Brown 

Late  June 

Arrowwood Viburnum  dentatum White 

Silky  Osier Cornus  sericea White 

Elderberry Sambucus  canadensis White 

Sweet  Bay Magnolia  glauca Cream 

Weigela Weigela  Eva  Rathke Carmine 

Scentless  Mock  Orange Philadelphus  inodorus White 

Clammy  Azalea Azalea  viscosum White 

Common  Viburnum Viburnum  molle White 

Lead  Plant Amorpha  canescens Rosy  purple 

Bastard  Indigo Amorpha  fruticosa Purple 

Early  July 

Ash-leaved  Spiraea Spiraea  sorbifolia Cream 

Virginia  Tea Itea  virginica White 

New  Jersey  Tea Ceanothus  americanus White 

Queen-of-the-Meadow Spiraea  salicifolia White 

Smooth  Sumach Rhus  glabra Yellow 

Shrubby  Cinquefoil Potentilla  fruticosa Yellow 

Swamp  Rose Rosa  Carolina Pink 

Flowering  Raspberry Rubus  odoratus Rose  pink 

Summer-blooming  Spiraea Spiraea  callosa Pink 

Middle  July 

Native  Hydrangea Hydrangea  arborescens White 

Native  Hydrangea Hydrangea  radiata White 

Aitchinson's  Spiraea Spiraea  Aitchinsonii Cream 

Billard's  Spiraea Spiraea  Billardii Pink 

Douglas's  Spiraea Spiraea  Douglasii Pink 

Lindley 's  Spiraea Spiraea  Lindleyana White 

Smoke  Bush Rhus  cotinus Purple 

Varnish  Tree Kcelreuteria  paniculata Yellow 

Prairie  Rose Rosa  setigera Pink 

Late  July 

Waterer's  Spiraea Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer Rose  pink 

Butterfly  Bush Buddleia  Veitchii Lavender 

Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort Hypericum  aureum Yellow 

Shrubby  St.  John's  Wort Hypericum  prolificum Yellow 

Sorrel  Tree Oxydendron  arboreum White 

Sweet  Pepper  Bush Clethra  alnifolia White 

Spiraea Spiraea  albiflora White 

Early  Hydrangea Hydrangea  paniculata  praecox White 

Buttonball  Bush Cephalanthus  occidentalis White 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea Hydrangea  quercifolia Cream 

Staghorn  Sumach Rhus  typhina Red 

August 

Hercules'   Club Aralia  spinosa Cream 

Single  Hydrangea Hydrangea  paniculata White 

Double  Hydrangea Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora White 

Rose  of  Sharon Hibiscus  syriacus Various 

Hardback Spiraea  tomentosa Pink 

Chaste  Bush Vitex  Agnus-castus Lavender 

Sweet  Pea  Shrub Lespedeza  Sieboldii Purple  rose 

White  Pea  Shrub Lespedeza  bicolor Rose  pink 

Sweet  Pea  Shrub Lespedeza  Sieboldii  alba White 

Blue  Spiraea Caryopteris  mastacanthus Lavender  blue 

Witch  Hazel  (Hamamelis  virginiana).  Yellow Blooms  in  October  or  Novembef 


HERBACEOUS   PERENNIALS   ARRANGED 

ACCORDING   TO  HEIGHT   AND 

FLOWERING  SEASON 

Those  marked  with  an  asterisk  (*)  are  good  for  cutting. 

MARCH 

r,:  u  u  ^''^'"'                                                               T,.  ,'-''''"■                              Height  in  inches 

Mitchella  repens Pink Trailing 

Claytonia  virginica Light  pink 3  to    4 

Scilla  sibirica Blue  and  white 3  to    6 

Chionodoxa  Luciliae Blue  and  white 4  to    6 

Galanthus  (Snowdrops) White 4  to    6 

Crocus,  various Various 4  to    6 

Hepatica  acutiloba Light  blue 6  to  12 

Hepatica  triloba Blue 6  to  12 

Erianthus  hymenalis Yellow 6  to  12 

Adonis  pyrenaica Yellow 6  to  12 

Adonis  amurensis Yellow 6  to  12 

Adonis  amurensis  fl.  pi Yellow 6  to  12 

Houstonia  serpyllifolia Light  purple 6  to  12 

Sanguinaria  canadensis White 6  to  12 

Adonis  vernalis Bright  yellow 9  to  12 

*Fritillaria  meleagris Yellow,  spotted 12  to  15 

Helleborus  niger Blush 12  to  15 

APRIL 

Draba  fladnizensis Creamy Trailing 

Epigaea  repens Pink ' .'  .Trailing 

Lithospermum  prostratum  and  var Blue  (heavenly  blue,  best) Trailing 

Androsace  sarmentosa  Chumbyi Rose  pink 2  to    3 

Arenaria  balearica White .  3  to    4 

Arenaria  montana White 3  to    4 

Claytonia  virginica Light  pink '.  3  to    4 

Phlox  subulata  Nelsonii  (best) White 3  to    4 

Nepeta  glechoma Purple  blue 3  to    5 

Nepeta  glechoma Blue 4 

Bellis  perennis White  and  pink '.'.  4  to    6 

Phlox  subulata White 4  to    6 

Phlox  subulata  lilacina Lilac 4  to    6 

Phlox  subuata  rosea Rose 4  to    6 

Chionodoxa  Luciliae Blue  and  white 4  to    6 

Nepeta  Mussini Lavender 4  to    6 

Dodecatheon  Media Pink  and  orange 4  to    8 

Hutchinsia  alpina White 5  to    6 

*Viola  cornuta,  Admiration Purple 5  to    8 

Viola  cornuta,  lutea  splendens Yellow 5  to    8 

*Viola  cornuta,  G.  Wermig Blue . .  5  to    8 

Viola  cornuta.  White  Perfection White 5  to    8 

Muscari  botryoides Blue 5  to    8 

Muscari  botryoides  alba White 5  to    8 

Tussilago  Farfara Yellow S  to    8 

Hepatica  triloba Blue 6 

♦Primula  veris Yellow 6 

Violet,  Double  Russian Deep  purple . .  .  6 

Aubrietia  deltoidea  graeca Purple 6 

Arabis  alpina  and  var White 6  to    8 

Primula  acaulis White 6  to    8 

Primula  acaulis  ccerulea Purple  white 6  to    8 

Primula  acaulis  Croussei  plena Purple  red .!....!....  6  to    8 

♦Primula  vulgaris Yellow 6  to    8 

Ranunculus  gramineus Bright  yellow 6  to    8 

Vinca  minor Blue 6  to    8 

Houstonia  sepyllifolia Light  purple 6  to    9 

Primula  vulgaris  ccerulea Blue 6  to    9 

Aubrietia  deltoidea Lavender  blue 6  to    9 


152  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

APRIL — continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Smilacina  racemosa White 6  to    9 

Anemone  angulosa Blue 6  to    9 

Aubrietia  Hendersonii Lavender  blue 6  to    9 

Lychnis  alpina Pink 6  to    9 

Anemone  sylvestris White 6  to  10 

Pulmonaria  angustifolia  azurea Gentian  blue 6  to  1 2 

Adonis  pyrenaica Yellow 6  to  1 2 

Hepatica  acutiloba Light  blue 6  to  12 

Myosotis  alpestris  var Sky  blue 8  to  10 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Sky  blue 8  to  10 

Anemone  patens  nuttalliana Purple 8  to  12 

Anemone  ranunculoides Yellow 8  to  12 

Erythronium  americanum Yellow 8  to  12 

•Anemone  Pulsatilla Violet 9  to  12 

Allium  molle Yellow 9  to  12 

Erythronium  americanum Yellow 9  to  12 

Adonis  vernalis Bright  yellow 9  to  12 

♦Papaver  nudicaule Various 9  to  15 

Hyacinths Various 9  to  15 

Daphne  Cneorum Rose  pink 9  to  15 

Anchusa  myosotidiflora Blue 10  to  12 

Iris  pumila '. Various 10  to  12 

*Phlox  divaricata  and  var :  . . Lavender  to  violet 10  to  12 

♦Phlox  Laphamii Deep  lavender 10  to  12 

Saxifraga  megasea  and  var Rose  to  crimson 10  to  12 

Adonis  amurensis Yellow 12 

Trillium  erectum Purple 12 

Allysum  saxtile  compactum Yellow 12 

Dicentra  canadensis White 12 

♦Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba White 12 

Helleborus  niger Blush  white 12  to  15 

Phlox  pilosa  splendens Rosy  carmine 12  to  15 

Trillium  grandiflorum White.. i 12  to  15 

Saxifraga  crassifolia Blush 12  to  15 

♦Narcissus  poeticus White 12  to  15 

♦Daffodils Yellow 12  to  15 

♦Tulips,  early  variety Various 12  to  24 

Actaeaalba White 15  to  18 

Iris  interregna Various 18 

♦Aquilegia  flabellata Lilac 18 

Arisaema  triphyllum Purple 18  to  24 

♦Veronica  gentianoides Blue 18  to  24 

Saxifraga  peltata Pink 18  to  24 

Euphorbia  polychroma Yellow 24 

MAY 

Draba  androsacea White Trailiug 

Lithospermum  prostratum  and  var Blue Trailing 

Lysimachia  Nummularia Yellow Trailing 

Calystegia  pubescens  fl.  pi Pink Trailing 

Veronica  repens Light  blue Trailing 

Epigaea  repens Pink Trailing 

Arenaria  balearica White 3  to    4 

Arenaria  montana White 3  to    4 

Veronica  rupestris Bright  blue 3  to    4 

Veronica  rupestris  alba White 3  to    4 

Viola  pedata Blue 3  to    4 

Viola  pedata  bicolor Blue  and  purple 3  to    4 

Nepeta  glechoma Purple  blue 3  to    5 

Sagina  subulata White 3  to    5 

Veronica  Allionii Gentian  blue 3  to    5 

Phlox  subulata  and  vars Various 3  to    6 

♦Shortia  galacifolia White 3  to    6 

Iris  cristata Blue 4 

Nepeta  Mussinii Lavender 4  to    6 

Ajuga  reptans  rubra Reddish  purple 4  to    6 

Dodecatheon  Media Pink  and  orange 4  to    8 

Vinca  minor  and  vars Blue 4  to    8 

Viola  odorata Blue 5  to    8 

Phlox  Stellaria Lavender  blue 5  to    8 

Ranuculus  ficaria Yellow 5  to    6 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  153 

MAY — continued 

Globularia  trichosantha Blue^°'°'^  Height  in  inches 

♦Viola  cornuta  and  var Var>V>"nc 5  to    8 

Ajuga  reptans .' ." .- ; Purnh^sh  blue f  '°    ^ 

Armeria  dianthoides WhUe  ^ 

Arabisalpina '  "■White ^ 

Arabis  alpina  rosea .  Pink    ^  *'°    ^ 

Epimedium  niveum WhitP ^  *°    * 

Asperula  odorata '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. White ^  ^°    * 

Polemonium  reptans rIup    ^  *o    8 

♦Primula  Sieboldii .' .'  .' .' Varion.; <^  *^o    » 

Ranuculus  gramineus Rri<ThwpnA;j 6  to    8 

♦Convallaria  majalis ! .  . !  . .' '. .' '. ." Whfte  ^  ^°    * 

*Iberis  sempervirens  and  vars White 6  to    9 

Primula  vulgaris  ccerulea .' Bi„g    6  to    9 

Ajuga  genevensis gi      6  to    9 

Anemonella  thalictroides WhitP ^  ^°    ^ 

Aubrietia  deltoidea I  avpnHVr'w,;» ^  *°    ^ 

Papaver  alpinum ;;•; WWte  '      ^  *°    ^ 

Lamium  album Wh  t^ 6  to    9 

Potentilla  tridentata Whitl "^  to    9 

Arnebia  echioides Vellnw ^  *-°    ^ 

*Iris  pumila  eburnea Creamv ^  ^°    ^ 

*Iris  pumila  florida LemoTveliow ^  '°    ^ 

*Iris  pumila  formosum vfoTt  ^  ^°    ^ 

Myosotis  alpestris  alba Wh  t p <5  to    9 

Myosotis  alpestris,  Victoria Lieht  hi,',; ^  t°    ^ 

Cerastium  Biebersteinii White         ^ '°    ^ 

Lychnis  alpina ^nt    ^  to    9 

Armeria  alpina p  '  t 6  to    9 

Aubrietia  Hendersonii ;; LavenHpV  hinp "^  to    9 

Aubrietia  purpurea vfolet  ^  to    9 

♦Anemone  sylvestris Whifo 6  to    9 

♦Aster  alpinus P^,r,;ip 6  to  10 

Aster  alpinus  albus .'..'. WhitP 6  to  10 

Nierembergia  rivularis Whitp 6  to  10 

Veronica  Teucrium r,"p    6  to  12 

♦Ins  pumila  cyanea P„rr>ip 6  to  12 

Potentilla  pyrenaica '. Yellow 6  to  12 

Pulmonaria  angustifolia  azurea .■.■.■.■.■.'; Gent^AblnV 6  to  12 

Pulmonaria  saccharata  maculata Bhie  ^  '°  ^2 

Ranunculus  repens  fl.  pi Yellow 6  to  12 

Tiarella  purpurea  major '.'.'.'.'.'.'"  'Salmon'red 6  to  12 

Ins  gracilipes ;    Lfla?  6  to  12 

Epimedium  Musschianum  rubrum Red   * 

Epimedium  sulphureum Yellow 8  to  10 

Epimedium  violaceum VinlPt   8  to  lo 

Myosotis  alpestris .■:.■;.■ Skv  hlnV 8  to  10 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Skv  hlnp 8  to  IQ 

Saponaria  ocymoides RnL  ipH 8  to  10 

Anemone  patens  nuttalliana Piirnle      8  to  12 

Anemone  ranunculoides Vpllnw 8  to  12 

Iberis  gibraltarica Lilac     8  to  12 

Epimedium  diphyllum  roseum Rose 8  to  12 

Epimedium  pinnatum  colchicum Yellow ?. 

Anemone  Pulsatilla VinW   ^ 

♦Cyripedium  acaule r!?«,,  ,;;,;;i^ 9  to  12 

♦Cypripedium  pubescens. ......". Yellow^     ^  to  12 

♦Cypripedium  spectabile .' Pink      9  to  12 

Primula  elatior  superba Vp11„w 9  to  12 

Allium  Moly ; ^^  °^ 9  to  12 

Erythronium  americanum '. Ve  nw 9  to  12 

Crucianella  stylosa Pint      9  to  12 

Primula  denticulatum .' .' P,,rnlp 9  to  12 

Primula  denticulatum  album. . .         WhitP 9  to  12 

Adonis  vernalis RriilV  ' '  11 9  to  12 

Teucrium  Chamadrys  ! fc  nnr "i^ ^  to  12 

♦Papaver  nudicaule... Varin,P«^     ^  to  12 

Daphne  Cneorum Rose  nl^t ^  to  15 

♦Anchusa  myosotidiflora RW  9  to  15 

Euphorbia  Cyparissias ." VpIIow 10  to  12 

♦Ph  ox  divaricata  canadensis LaveiTdVr JO  to  12 

Phlox  divaricata  alba  grandiflora . .  Whi?P       10  to  12 

vvmie 10  to  12 


154 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


MAY — continued 
Name  Color 

♦Phlox  divaricata  Laphamii Lavender 

♦Saxifraga  megasea  vars Various 

Alyssum  saxatile  compactum Yellow 

Bletia  hyacinthina Pink 

Bletia  hyacinthina  alba White 

Campanula  punctata White,  spotted  rose 

♦Dianthus  plumarius Various 

Orobus  lathyroides Blue 

Orobus  vernus Purple 

♦Phlox  Carolina  ovata Magenta 

Saxifraga  umbrosa White 

♦Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba White 

♦Caltha  palustris  and  fl.  pi Yellow 

Dielytra  formosa  (eximia) Pink 

Phlox  pilosa  splendens Rosy  carmine 

Corydalis  nobilis Pale  yellow 

Dicentra  canadensis White 

Stellaria  Holostea White 

Saxifraga  crassifolia Blush 

♦Incarvillea  grandiflora Light  rose 

Tiarella  cordifolia White 

♦Linum  perenne  album White 

Geranium  Grievesi Red 

yEthionema  grandiflora Pink 

♦Aquilegia  canadensis Red  and  yellow 

♦Phlox  Arendsii  vars Lavender  shades 

Podophyllum  peltatum White 

♦Tulips,  late  variety Various 

♦Geum  bulgaricum Orange 

♦Geum  coccineum  Heldreichii,  Mrs.  Bradshaw Scarlet 

♦Geum  miniatum.  Perry's Orange 

Iris  amcena Various 

♦Aquilegia  formosa Red  and  white 

♦Aquilegia  glandulosa Blue  and  white 

Iris  florentina White,  tmged  lavender. 

Actseaalba White 

Actae  rubra Deep  rose 

♦Incarvillea  Delavayi Rose  red 

Lychnis  Flos-cuculi Light  pink 

♦Aquilegia  flabellata Lilac 

♦Anthericum  liliago White 

♦Campanula  grandis Violet  blue 

Aquilegia  akitensis Blue  and  yellow 

Doronicum  Clusii Yellow 

♦Mertensia  virginica Blue 

Arisaema  triphyllum Purple 

"♦Veronica  gentianoides Blue 

Saxifraga  peltata Pink 

TroUius,  all  vars Yellow  shades 

Tradescantia  virginica Blue 

Tradescantia  virginica  alba White 

♦Dielytra  spectabilis Pink 

Lindelofia  longif olia Blue 

♦Paeonia  tenuif olia  fl.  pi Deep  crimson 

Polygonum  sericeum White 

Ranuculus  aconitifolius  fl.  pi Pure  white 

Ranunculus  acris  fi.  pi Yellow 

Saxifraga  pyramidalis White 

♦Anthericum  liliastrum White 

♦Paeonia  officinalis  rosea Pink 

♦Paeonia  officinalis  rubra Crimson 

Amsonia  tabernaemontana Blue 

♦Aquilegia  alpina Blue  and  white 

Doronicum  excelsum Yellow 

♦Luplnus  polyphyllus  and  vars Blue,  pink,  white 

♦Paeonia  (herbaceous)  sinensis  («arly) various 

♦Polemonium  coeruleum Blue 

♦Polemonium  cceruleum  album White 

♦Thalictum  aquilegifolium Purple 

♦Thalictum  aquilegifolium  album White 

*Hemerocallis.  Gold  Dust Yellow 

♦Campanula  medium Various 


Height 


in  inches 

10  to  12 

10  to  12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  IS 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  15 

12  to  18 

12  to  18 

12  to  18 

12  to  24 

12  to  24 

12  to  24 

12  to  24 

15 

15 

15 

15  to  18 

15  to  18 

15  to  18 

15  to  18 

13  to  18 

IS  to  18 

8  to  20 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  24 
8  to  30 
8  to  30 
20  to  24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 

24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
30 
30  to  36 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  155 

MAY — continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

*Iris  sibirica Purple 30  to  36 

»Iris  sibirica  alba White 30  to  36 

Iris  versicolor Purple  and  yellow 30  to  36 

♦Aquilegia  vulgaris  nivea White 30  to  36 

Polygonatum  giganteum Creamy 30  to  36 

*Papaver  orientale  and  vars Salmon  to  maroon 30  to  40 

♦Pseonia  Moutan  (tree  vars.) Various 30  to  48 

Podophyllum  emodi  majus Pink 36 

*Anchusa  italica,  Opal  and  Dropmore Blue 36  to  60 

Iris  ochroleuca Yellow 48 

Iris  Pseudacorus Yellow 48 

JUNE 

Calystegia  pubescens  fl.  pi Pink Trailing 

Thymus  lanuginosus Lilac Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum White Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum  coccineum Scarlet Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum  splendens Purple  red Trailing 

Lithospermum  prostratum  var Blue Trailing 

Lysimachia  Nummularia Yellow Trailing 

Sedum  acre Yellow 2  to    4 

Sedum  sexangulare Yellow 2  to    4 

Thymus  citriodorus Lilac 3  to    4 

Veronica  rupestris Bright  blue 3  to    4 

Veronica  rupestris  alba White 3  to    4 

Viola  pedata Blue 3  to    4 

Viola  pedata  bicolor Purple  and  blue 3  to    4 

Veronica  Allionii Gentian  blue 3  to    5 

Sedum  Middendorfianum Light  yellow 3  to    5 

Gypsophila  cerastioides White 3  to    6 

Nepeta  Mussinii Lavender 4  to    6 

Viola  odorata Blue 5  to    8 

Globularia  trichosanthes Blue 5  to    8 

Linum  alpinum Blue 5  to    8 

Viola  cornuta,  all  vars Various 5  to    8 

Asperula  odorata White 6  to    8 

Cerastium  tomentosum White 6  to    8 

Polemonium  reptans Blue 6  to    8 

Sedum  kamtschaticum Yellow 6  to    8 

Tunica  saxif raga Light  pink 6  to    8 

Oxytropis  hybrida  grandiflora White 6  to    8 

Papaver  alpina White 6  to    9 

Sedum  pulchellum Pink 6  to    9 

Iberis  sempervirens  and  vars White 6  to    9 

Cerastium   Biebersteinii White 6  to    9 

Myosotis  alpestris  alba White 6  to    9 

Myosotis  alpestris,  Victoria Light  blue 6  to    9 

Dianthus  deltoides Pink 6  to  10 

Dianthus  deltoides  alba White 6  to  10 

Armeria  maritima  splendens Bright  pink 6  to  12 

Armeria  maritima  alba White 6  to  12 

Nierembergia  rivularis White 6  to  1 2 

Veronica  Teucrium Blue 6  to  12 

Potentilla  pyrenaica Yellow 6  to  12 

Pulmonaria  saccharata  maculata Blue 6  to  12 

Ranunculus  repens  fl.  pi Golden  yellow 6  to  12 

Tiarella  purpurea  major Salmon  red 6  to  12 

Hierracium  aurantiacum  rubrum Orange  red 6  to  24 

Armeria  Laucheana  rosea Rose 8  to  10 

Armeria  Laucheana  alba White 8  to  10 

♦Campanula  carpatica Blue 8  to  10 

♦Campanula  carpatica  alba White 8  to  10 

♦Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Blue 8  to  10 

Iberis  gibraltarica Lilac 8  to  12 

♦Lychnis  grandiflora Light  yellow 8  to  12 

Lychnis  grandiflora  alba White 8  to  12 

Epimedium  diphyllum  roseum Rose 9 

Epimedium  pinnatum  colchicum Yellow 9 

Saponaria  ocymoides Rosy  red 9  to  1 2 

♦Campanula  rotundifolia Blue 9  to  12 

Rhexia  virginica Rosy  purple 9  to  12 


156  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

JUNE — continued 
Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Veronica  spicata  erica Light  pink ^  '^°  ^^ 

Teucrium  chamsedrys Rosy  purple 9  to  12 

Fragaria  indica Yellow 9  to  15 

Sempervivum  atlanticum Light  rose 10  to  12 

Sempervivum  tectorum Light  rose ^R  "^^  }t 

*Dianthus  latifolius  atrococcineus Crimson 10  to  12 

Dianthus  plumarius  vars Various 10  to  12 

Achillea  tomentosa Yellow. 12 

Agrostemma  Flos-Jovis Deep  pink 12 

Alyssum  rostratum Yellow 12 

Armeria  formosa  rosea Pink 12 

Armeria  formosa  alba White  blush 12 

*Aster  subcoeruleus Bluish  violet 12 

Bletia  hyacinthina Rosy  pink 12 

Bletia  hyacinthina  alba White 12 

Campanula  punctata White,  spotted  rose 12 

*Phlox  Carolina  ovata Magenta 12 

*Polemonium  Richardsonii Sky  blue 12 

Polemonium  Richardsonii  album White 12 

Saxifraga  umbrosa White 12 

Geranium  grandiflorum Lilac  blue 12 

*Lychnis  Viscaria  fl.  pi Red 12 

CEnothera  ca;spitosa White 12 

*CEnothera  missouriensis Yellow 12 

Orobus  lathyroides Bright  blue 12 

Orobus  vernus Purple 12 

*Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba White 12 

Sedum  Maximowiczii Yellow 12 

Saponaria  caucasica Blush 12  to  15 

Corydalis  nobilis Pale  yellow 12  to  15 

Stellaria  Holostea White 12  to  15 

*Dracocephalum  Ruyschiana Purple 12  to  15 

♦Incarvillea  grandiflora Bright  rose 12  to  15 

Prunella  grandiflora Purple 12  to  15 

*Stachys  grandiflora  superbum Mauve 12  to  15 

*Stachys  grandiflora  rosea Purple 12  to  15 

*Pentstemon  Smallii Rosy  carmine 12  to  15 

♦Anemone  pennsylvanica White 12  to  15 

Caltha  palustris  and  vars Yellow 12  to  15 

Potentilla,  Miss  Willmott Cerise 12  to  15 

Spigelia  marilandica Bright  red 12  to  15 

*Stachys  lanata Purple 12  to  15 

Statice  Gmelinii Violet  blue 12  to  15 

Dielytra  formosa  (eximia) Pink 12  to  15 

♦Lychnis  Haageana Orange  scarlet 12  to  IS 

Erigeron  glabellus Violet  purple 12  to  18 

Linum  perenne  album White 12  to  18 

Coronilla  varia Pink  and  white 12  to  18 

♦Dianthus  barbatus  vars Various 12  to  18 

♦Mertensia  virginica Blue 12  to  18 

Geranium  Grievesi Red 12  to  18 

Linum  narbonnense Blue 12  to  18 

Chamaeiirium  luteum Pale  yellow 12  to  24 

*Phlox  Arendsii  vars Lavender  shades 12  to  24 

Hieracium  aurantiacum Orange 12  to  24 

♦Hypericum  calycinum Yellow 12  to  24 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria Yellow 15 

Anthemis  tinctoria  alba White 15 

Anthemis  tinctoria  pallida Light  yellow 15 

Stachys  Betonica  grandiflora Rose 15 

Stachys  Betonica  rosea Pale  rose 15 

Statice  tatarica Purple  red 15 

♦Geum  bulgaricum Orange 15 

♦Geum  miniatum,  Perry's  variety Orange 15 

Actaeaalba White 15  to  18 

Actaea  rubra Deep  rose 15  to  18 

♦Aquilegia  formosa Red  and  white 15  to  18 

♦Aquilegia  glandulosa Blue  and  white 15  to  18 

♦Veronica  chamsedrys Blue IS  to  18 

♦Heuchera  sanguinea  alba White 15  to  18 

♦Incarvillea  Delavayi Rose 15  to  18 

Astrantia  major Pink 15  to  18 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  157 

JUNE— continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

*Chrysantheumum  leucanthemum  fl.  pi White 15  to  18 

*Scabiosa  caucasica Blue .'..'..'.. 15  to  18 

*Scabiosa  caucasica  alba White..... .  ..........:. 15  to  18 

*Geum  coccineum,  Heldreichii,  Mrs.  Bradshaw Scarlet 15  to  18 

Marshallia  trinervia White 15  to  18 

Statice  eximia Lilac 15  to  18 

*Spireea  filipendula  fl.  pi White 15  to  18 

Clematis  integrifolia Blue .. 15  to  20 

♦Anthericum  liliago White 18 

♦Achillea  millefolium  roseum Pink 18 

♦Campanula  grandis Violet  blue...         18 

♦Statice  latifolia Purplish  blue '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.   18 

Euphorbia  corollata White 18 

Geranium  platypetalum Purple 18 

Geranium  sanguineum Crimson '.'.  .. 18 

Geranium  sanguineum  album White 18 

Inula  ensifolia Yellow 18 

Inula  montana Yellow! 18 

*Linum  perenne Blue .    18 

♦Lychnis  Flos-cuculi Light  pink .'.'.'..'!  .'.'.'.'.'.■.■.' .'.'.' .i .'   18 

♦Lychnis  vespertina  alba  plena White 18 

♦CEnothera  speciosa White 18 

CEnothera  Pilgrimii Bright  yellow'.  '.'.'.'.'.'.'. 18 

Veronica  spicata  alba White 18 

Veronica  spicata  rosea Pink        18 

Geranium  Willardii Rosy  red .  . .'  .' .' .' .'  .' .'  .' ."  ." .'  ! ."  .' .'  .' .'  .' ."   18 

♦Stokesia  cyanea .      Lavender 18  to  20 

♦Stokesia  cyanea  alba White 18  to  20 

Aquilegia  haylodgensis Pink '.    18  to  24 

♦Aruncus  astilboides White '     18  to  24 

♦Lychnis  coronaria  alba White...  18  to  24 

♦Campanula  latifolia  nobilis Purple 18  to  24 

♦Campanula  latifolia  nobilis  alba White 18  to  24 

Amsonia  salicifolia Blue.  18  to  24 

Sedum  Aizoon Yellow ;.';;;.';; 18  to  24 

Silene  virginica Rose  madder '.'.   18  to  24 

Pentstemon  diffusus Purple 18  to  24 

Aquilegia  Skinnerii Yellow  and  red .■.■.;■   18  to  24 

♦Armena  cephalotes  Ruby Red 18  to  24 

♦Campanula  glomerata  superba Violet  blue 18  to  24 

!Sr^^^''"'"  hybridum  in  variety White  to  carmine .' .' 18  to  24 

*Jha,  l'^'''"'?,  adiantifolium Creamy  white 18  to  24 

♦Trolhus,  all  vars Yellow  shades 18  to  24 

♦Hemerocalhs  Dumortieni Buff  yellow  \«.  tnol 

Inula  Royleana Golden ! !  ! .'  ! !  ! !  ! .'  ! !  ! .'  .'  '  '     18  to  24 

♦Veronica  spicata Blue 18  to  24 

Erigeron  mucronatus Rose "'    18  to  24 

Geum  rivale Red  18  to  ?4 

Tradescantia  virginica Blue  .'.■."." '.'.'.'.  '.  '.  '.  '.'.'.'.'.'..'. 18  to  30 

Tradescantia  virginica  alba White ■  '     18  to  30 

Thahctrum  glaucum Bronze .' 20  to  24 

♦Veronica  amethystina Blue "'     20  to  24 

♦Campanula  latifolius  Van  Houttei Purple .■.■.■.■;.' 20  to  30 

♦Aquilegia  Hdena Blue  and  white V"   24 

♦Campanula  Grossekii Dark  blue '24 

♦Delphinium  sinensis Blue .  24 

♦Delphinium  sinensis  alba White 24 

Polygonum  sericeum White 24 

Ranunculus  aconitifolius White  24 

*?^,"^"S,"'"S  acris  fl.  pi !.  Golden 'yellow. '.v. '.!!.'; 24 

Sa  via  Greggii .       Carmine :.::::   24 

balvia  Greggii  alba White  24 

Saxifraga  peltata White. !!!!  i!!! ! 24 


Valeriana  coccinea . 


.  Rosy  red 24 


Valeriana  coccinea  alba White 24 

Erigeron  intermedius Blush  white 24 

Erigeron  speciosus  roseus Pink . .  24 

♦Gaillardia  grandiflora Orange  color 24 

Helemum  Hoopesii   Orange  yellow ..'.   24 

"Campanula  allianaefolia White  24 

Ins  Xiphium Various '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.   2i  to  30 

♦Lychnis  coronaria Red 24  to  30 


158  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

JUNE — continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Amsonia  Tabemsemontana Blue 24  to  30 

♦Aquilegia  alpina Blue  and  white 24  to  30 

Baptisia  australis Dark  blue 24  to  30 

Baptisia  tinctoria Yellow 24  to  30 

•Campanula  persicifolia Blue 24  to  30 

•Campanula  persicifolia  alba White 24  to  30 

Dictamnus  f raxinella Pink 24  to  30 

Dictamnus  f raxinella  alba White 24  to  30 

Catananche  coerulea Purple  blue 24  to  30 

♦Pentstemon  heterophyllus Blue 24  to  30 

♦Spiraea  chinensis Pink 24  to  30 

♦Thalictrum  aquilegifolium  atropurpureum Rosy  purple 24  to  30 

♦Thalictrum  aQuilegifolium  album White 24  to  30 

•Digitalis  ambigua Pale  yellow 24  to  30 

Lythrum  alatum Crimson  purple 24  to  30 

•CEnothera  f ruticosa  Youngii Yellow 24  to  30 

♦Polemonium  coeruleum Blue 24  to  36 

♦Polemonium  coeruleum  album White 24  to  36 

•Digitalis  purpurea  alba White 24  to  36 

•Aquilegia  chrysantha Yellow 24  to  36 

Aquilegia  chrysantha White 24  to  36 

•Aquilegia  coerulea Blue 24  to  36 

•Aquilegia  hybrids Various 24  to  36 

•Clematis  recta  and  fl.  pi White 24  to  36 

•Coreopsis  lanceolata Yellow 24  to  36 

•Pentstemon  Digitalis White 24  to  36 

Rosmarinus  officinalis Purple 24  to  36 

Sidalcea  Candida White 24  to  36 

Sidalcea,  Rose  Queen Rose  pink 24  to  36 

•Hemerocallis  aurantiaca,  major Indian  yellow 24  to  36 

Inula  glandulosa  prandiflora Yellow 24  to  36 

•Lupinus  polyphyllus  vars Blue,  white,  pink 2  4  to  36 

•Lychnis  chalcedonica  and  fl.  pi Orange  scarlet 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma  and  vars Pink  to  scarlet 24  to  36 

•Papaver  orientale.  Perry's  White White 24  to  36 

Digitalis  lutea Yellow 24  to  36 

•Paeonia  sinensis  (herbaceous),  late  var Various 24  to  42 

•Campanula  latifolia  macrantha Blue 30 

•Hemerocallis,  Gold  Dust Yellow 30 

Anchusa  sempervirens Gentian  blue 30  to  36 

•Iris  sibirica Purple 30  to  36 

Iris  sibirica  alba White 30  to  36 

•Iris  versicolor Yellow  and  purple 30  to  36 

•Aquilegia  vulgaris  nivea White 30  to  36 

CEnothera  glauca  Fraseri Yellow 30  to  36 

Agrostemma  coronaria Crimson 30  to  36 

♦Delphinium  f ormosum Blue 30  to  36 

Polygonatum  giganteum Creamy 30  to  36 

Saxif raga  peltata Light  pink 30  to  36 

•Spiraea  palmata Crimson 30  to  36 

•Spiraea  Ulmaria  fl.  pi White 30  to  36 

Thermopsis  carolinianum Yellow 30  to  36 

•Hemerocallis  flava Lemon 30  to  36 

•Hemerocallis  aurantiaca Indian  yellow 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale,  Goliath Scarlet 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale.  Mahogany Maroon 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale,  Mrs.  Perry Salmon 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale.  Fire  King Red 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale.  Queen  Alexandra Salmon 30  to  40 

•Papaver  orientale,  Victoria  Louise Salmon 30  to  40 

•Astilbe  Arendsii  Ceres Pale  pink 30  to  42 

•Astilbe  Arendsii,  Pink  Pearl Pink 30  to  42 

•Astilbe  Arendsii,  Salmon  Queen Salmon  pink 30  to  42 

•Astilbe  Arendsii,  Venus Deep  rose 30  to  42 

•Astilbe  Arendsii,  Vesta Lilac  rose 30  to  42 

♦Iris  Kaempferi  in  variety Various 30  to  48 

Paeonia  Moutan  (Tree  Peony) Various 30  to  48 

•Delphinium,  all  varieties Blue  and  lavender 30  to  60 

•Aconitum  Lycoctonum Pale  yellow 36 

♦Campanula  Medium Various 36 

Campanula  Trachelium Purple 36 

♦Phlox  suffrutico^a.  Miss  Lingard White 36  to  40 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  159 

JUNE — continued 

Name                                                                           Color                               Height  in  inches 

Hesperus  matronalis Purple 36  to  42 

Hesperus  matronalis  albus White 36  to  42 

*Hemerocallis  Florham Golden  yellow 36  to  42 

*Hemerocallis  luteola Golden  yellow 36  to  42 

Asphodelus  luteus Orange 36  to  48 

*Pentstemon  barbatus.  Torreyi Scarlet 36  to  48 

Valeriana  officinalis Blush  pink 36  to  48 

Funkia  coerulea Blue 36  to  48 

Yucca  angustifolia White  or  cream 36  to  48 

Romneya  Coulteri White 36  to  48 

*Galega  officinalis Blue 36  to  54 

♦Spiraea  Aruncus White 36  to  60 

Iris  ochroleuca Pale  yellow 48 

♦Iris  Pseudacorus Yellow 48 

Aconitum  uncinatum Purple 48  to  54 

♦Spiraea  venusta Deep  rose 48  to  54 

Spiraea  venusta  magnifica Deep  red 48  to  54 

♦Astilbe  Davidii Rose  violet 48  to  60 

♦Astilbe  grandis White 48  to  60 

♦Salvia  uliginosa Blue 48  to  60 

♦Digitalis  gloxinaeflora Rose  colors 48  to  60 

♦Hemerocallis  f ulva Orange 48  to  60 

Yucca  filamentosa Creamy  white 48  to  60 

♦Lathyrus  latifolius Deep  rose 48  to  72 

Lathyrus  latifolius  albus White 48  to  72 

Aralia  cachemirica White 60  to  72 

Cephalaria  alpina Sulphur 60  to  72 

♦Althaeas Various 60  to  84 

♦Eremurus  robustus White 72  to  96 

JULY 

Calystegia  pubescens  fl.  pi Pink Trailing 

Thymus  lanuginosus Lilac Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum  album White Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum  coccineum Scarlet Trailing 

Thymus  serpyllum  splendens Purplish  red Trailing 

Sedum  album White Trailing 

Sedum  Middendorffianum Sulphur  yellow Trailing 

Sedum  sexangulare Yellow Trailing 

Sedum  stoloniferum Purplish  pink Trailing 

Lithospermum  prostratum  and  vars Blue Trailing 

Gypsophila  repens White Trailing 

Thymus  citriodorus Lilac 3 

Silene  alpestris White 3  to    5 

Gypsophila  cerastoides White 3to    6 

Astilbe  simplicifolia White 4  to    6 

Nepeta  Mussinii Lavender 4  to    6 

Silene  Schaf ta „ Pink 4  to    6 

Globularia  trichosantha Blue 5  to    8 

Linum  alpinum Blue 5  to    8 

Viola  cornuta  vars Various 5  to    8 

Sedum  pulchellum Pink 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare  aureum Yellow 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare,  Bride White 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare,  Ball  of  Fire Red  double 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare,  Mrs.  Earle Red  double 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare.  Rosy  Gem Rose 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare,  macrantha White 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare,  Sudberry  Gem Buff 6  to    9 

Hypericum  adpressum Yellow 6  to    9 

Callirhoe  involucrata Vivid  crimson 6  to    9 

♦Dianthus  deltoides Pink 6  to    9 

♦Dianthus  deltoides  alba White 6  to    9 

♦Helianthemum  vulgare  alba  plena White 6  to    9 

Armeria  maritima  splendens Pink 6  to  1 2 

Armeria  maritima  alba White 6  to  12 

Nierembergia  rivularis White 6  to  12 

Potentilla  pyrenaica Yellow 6  to  12 

♦Campanula  carpatica Blue 8 

♦Campanula  carpatica  alba White 8 

Armeria  Laucheana  rosea Rose 8  to  10 


160  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

JULY — continued 
Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Armeria  Laucheana  alba White 8  to  10 

Artmesia  pedemontana Yellowish 8  to  10 

Sempervivum  hirtum Yellow 8  to  10 

*Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Blue 8  to  10 

Lychnis  grandiflora Apricot 8  to  12 

Lychnis  grandiflora  alba White 8  to  12 

Rhexia  virginica Rosy  purple 9 

Saponaria  ocymoides Rosy  red 9  to  12 

Scutellaria  alpina Purple 9  to  12 

Veronica  spicata  erica Pink 9  to  12 

*Campanula  rotundifolia Blue 9  to  12 

Lamium  maculatura Purple 9  to  12 

*Papaver  nudicaule Various 9  to  IS 

Opuntia  missouriensis Yellow 10  to  12 

Opuntia  Rafinesquii Yellow 10  to  12 

Sempervivum  atlanticum Light  rose 10  to  12 

Sempervivum  tectorum Light  rose 10  to  12 

*Wahlenbergia  vincaeflora Gentian  blue 10  to  12 

*Dianthus  latifolius  atrococcineus Crimson 10  to  12 

Armeria  formosa  rosea Pink 12 

Armeria  formosa  alba Blush  white 12 

♦Aster  subcoeruleus Bluish  violet 12 

♦Veronica  incana Bright  blue 12 

Sedum  Maximowiczii Yellow 12 

CEnothera  caspitosa White 12 

CEnothera  missouriensis Yellow 12 

Alyssum  rostratum Yellow 12 

Statice  Gmelini Y}°^^^  ^^^^ J? 

♦Polemonium  Richardsonii Blue 12 

*Polemonium  Richardsonii  alba White 12 

*Dianthus  plumarius,  "White  Reserve" White 12 

Agrostemma  Flos-Jovis Deep  pink 12  to  15 

♦Anemone  pennsylvanica White 12  to  15 

♦Aster  amellus,  King  George Blue 12  to  15 

♦Aster  amellus.  Perry's  Favorite Rose 12  to  15 

Saponaria  caucasica Blush 1^  *^°  15 

Dianthus  cinnabarium Magenta 12  to  15 

Prunella  grandiflora Purple 12  to  15 

♦Stachys  grandiflora  superba Mauve 12  to  15 

♦Stachys  grandiflora  rosea Purple 12  to  15 

Teucrium  canadense Light  purple 12  to  IS 

Erodium  Manescavii Red 12  to  15 

Spigelia  marilandica Bright  red 12  to  15 

Santolina  incana Yellow 12  to  15 

♦Pentstemon  Smallii Carmine 12  to  IS 

♦Phlox  Arendsii  Amanda Lilac 12  to  IS 

Polygonum  Brunonis Bright  rose 12  to  15 

Potentilla,  Miss  Willmott Cerise 12  to  15 

♦Lychnis  Haageana Orange  scarlet 12  to  15 

Dielytra  formosa Pink }?  '°  J5 

Eryngium  maritimum Pale  blue 12  to  15 

Funkia  minor  alba White 12  to  IS 

Geranium  grandiflorum Pale  lilac 12  to  15 

♦Dracocephalum  Ruyschiana Purple 12  to  15 

Calimeris  incisa Pale  lavender 12  to  18 

Erigeron  glabellus Violet  purple J?  *°  }f 

♦Linum  perenne  album White 12  to  18 

Linum  narbonnense Blue 12  to  18 

♦Tricyrtis  hirta Deep  orange 12  to  18 

♦Lilium  elegans,  Vanhouttei Crimson 12  to  18 

Coronilla  varia Pink  and  white \l*-°\^. 

♦Hypericum  calycinum Yellow 18  to  24 

Chamaelirium  luteum Cream  yellow 12  to  24 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria Yellow 15 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  alba White 15 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  pallida Pale  yellow 15 

♦Stachys  Betonica  grandiflora Soft  rose 15 

♦Stachys  Betonica  rosea Pale  rose  piok 15 

♦Statice  eximia Lilac 15 

Statice  tatarica Reddish  purple 15 

♦Geum  bulgaricum Orange 15 

♦Geum  miniatum,  Perry's  Variety Orange 15 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  161 

JULY— conlinued 

^<^^«  Color  Height  in  inches 

Aster  acris Violet  blue IS  to  18 

*Aster  ptarmicoides White 15  to  18 

Aster  Thomsonii Clear  blue . ..........'. IS  to  18 

*Platycodon  Mariesii Blue 15  to  18 

Sedum  Telephium Rosy  white ':'..'. 15  to  18 

Statice  Limonium Purple  blue 15  to  18 

♦Spiraea  filipendula  fl.  pi White.     .  15  to  18 

♦Phlox  Arendsii,  Greta White 15  to  18 

*Phlox  Arendsii,  Helene Lavender  blue. ..... '.  '.'.'.'.'.'.  15  to  18 

Potentilla  formosa Red 15  to  18 

*Scabiosa  caucasica Blue 15  to  18 

*Scabiosa  caucasica  alba White. .... .  . .............  15  to  18 

Solidago  Virguarea  compacta Deep  yellow........!  .  .  . . 15  to  18 

Marshallia  trinervia White 15  to  18 

♦Chrysanthemum  leucanthemum  fl.  pi White. 15  to  18 

*Geum  coccineum  Heldreichii,  Mrs.  Bradshaw Scarlet 15  to  18 

♦Heuchera  sanguinea  alba White IS  to  18 

Achillea  millefolium  roseum Pink . . 18 

Statice  latifolia Purplish  blue. .".'.'.'.!.'.'.'.'.'.' ."  ' ' .'  18 

Veronica  spicata Blue 18 

Veronica  spicata  alba White 18 

Veronica  spicata  rosea Pink . .'.".'.' 18 

CEnothera  Pilgrimii Yellow 18 

(Enothera  speciosa .".  .White .... .  .  . .  . .  '.  .  . .  .  .  . .  . .  ..  ..  18 

Pentstemon  pubescens Rosy  pup'le 18 

Salvia  virgata  nemorosa Dark  blue. .  .. 18 

Inula  ensifolia Yellow. 18 

Inula  montana Yellow '. 18 

Layendula  vera .' .'  .'.'.' .'Lavender  blue.'.'.".'. ! !  '.'. 18 

Lihum  tenuifolium Bright  scarlet '  18 

Lmum  perenne Blue 18 

Lynchnis  vespertina  alba  plena '.  .White. . .... 18 

Campanula  glomerata Violet  blue... 18 

Centaurea  dealbata Bright  rose'.'.'.'.'.".'.'. 18 

Euphprbiacorollata White 18 

Geranium  sanguineum ' .  Crimson! ! ! ! 18 

Geranium  sanguineum  album White. . .'.'.'.'!!!!!!! 18 

Helenium  pumilum  magnificum Golden  yellow 18 

Stokesia  cyanea.      Lavender  blue..'.!'.!!  ! !  ! !  ! !  ! !  ! !  18  to  20 

btokesia  cyanea  alba White 18  to  20 

Armeria  cephalotes,  Ruby !  !!  !!  Red. .!!!!! ! ! 18  to  24 

Dracocepnalum  grandiflorum Blue..'.'.'.'!! !! 18  to  24 

Campanula  rapunculoides Blue 18  to  24 

Aruncus  astilboides White. . .! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! 18  to  24 

Lychnis  coronana  alba White  18  to  24 

Alyssum  argentum Yellow...  '! 18  to  24 

Campanula  latifolia  nobilis Purple ""  18  to  24 

Campanula  latifolia  nobilis  alba White.'. .'.'.".'.'.' !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  18  to  24 


Sedum  Aizoon 


Sile 


•Yellow 18  to  24 


"^^^^^^J^--::.:.;.- Rose  madder i8to24 


Thalictrum  adinatifolium !Creamy  white! 18  to  24 

Veronica  longifoha  subsessilis Deep  blue 18  to  24 

Vincetoxicum  japonicum Creamy  white !!!    "  "    18  to  24 

Centaurea  ruthenica Yellow 18  to  24 

Pentstemon  grandiflora Lilac  blue 18  to  24 

Matricaria,  Little  Gem White  '"   18  to  24 

Phlox  Arendsii   Charlotte Pinkish  I'il'ac .' .' .'.'.'. ! ! !  ! !  ! !  ! !  ! !  ! !    18  to  24 

Phlox  Arendsii  Kathe Rose  purple 18  to  24 

PhysahsFranchetu.. Red  fruits 18  to  24 

Potent;  la  atrosanguinea Crimson 18  to  24 

Potentilla  Vulcan Maroon !  18  to  24 

Scabwsa  japonica Lavender  blue 18  to  24 

Senecio  pulcher   Rosy  purple 18  to  24 

Heuchera  bnzo.des Crimson." 18  to  24 

Heuchera  sanguinea.       Coral  red 18  to  24 

Heuchera  sanguinea  alba Creamy  white 18  to  24 

Heuchera  Virginal White 18  to  24 

Hypericum  Mosenanum Yellow 18  to  24 

Inula  royleana Yellow 18  to  24 

Campanula  glomerata  superba Violet  blue 18  to  24 

Centaurea  hirta  nigra  vanegata Purple 18  to  24 

Chelone  glabra  alba Creamy  white 18  to  24 


162  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

JVL\— continued 
Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Chelone  Lyonii Rosy  red 18  to  24 

Tradescantia  virginica Blue 1 8  to  30 

Tradescantia  virginica  alba White 18  to  30 

Trollius,  all  varieties Yellow  shades 1 8  to  30 

Montbretias,  all  varieties Various 18  to  30 

Phlox  decussata  vars Various 18  to  42 

Thalictrum  glaucum Bronze 20  to  24 

Centaurea  montana Violet  blue 20  to  24 

Centaurea  montana  alba White 20  to  24 

Coreopsis  verticillata Yellow 20  to  24 

Funkia  undulata  variegata Lilac 20  to  24 

Saponaria  officinalis Blush 20  to  30 

♦Achillea  filipendula Yellow 24 

♦Achillea  Ptarmica  fl.  pi.  and  vars White 24 

Alstromeria  chilensis Orange 24 

♦Campanula  latifolia.  Van  Houttei Purple 24 

Lycoris  squamigera Pink 24 

Spiraea  chinensis Silvery  pink 24 

Valeriarta  coccinea Rosy  red 24 

Valeriana  coccinea  alba White 24 

♦Veronica  amethystina Blue 24 

♦Veronica  maritima Light  blue 24 

♦Campanula  alliareefolia White 24 

Pentstemon  puniceus Scarlet 24 

♦Pentstemon  gloxinoides  hybrids Various 24 

♦Phlox  Arendsii,  Louise Lilac,  dark  eye 24 

♦Platycodon  grandiflorum Deep  blue 24 

♦Platycodon  grandiflorum  album White 24 

Salvia  Greggii Carmine 24 

Salvia  Greggii  alba White 24 

♦Heliopsis  Pitcheriana  semi-plena Yellow 24 

Lysimachia  ciliata Yellow 24 

Lysimachia  clethroides White 24 

Lythrum  alatum Crimson  purple 24 

♦Campanula  Grossekii Dark  blue 24 

♦Campanula  persicifolia Blue 24 

♦Campanula  persicifolia  alba White 24 

♦Chrysanthemum,  Shasta  Daisy  "Alaska" White 24 

♦Delphinium  Sinensis Blue 24 

♦Delphinium  siaensis  alba White 24 

Eomecon  chionantha White 24 

Erigeron  intermedium Blush  white 24 

Erigeron  speciosus  roseus Pink 24 

♦Gaillardia  grandiflora Orange  shades 24 

Geranium  Fremontii Rosy  purple 24 

(Etheopappus  pulcherrimus Rose  pink 24  to  3o 

♦Lychnis  coronaria Red 2  4  to  30 

♦Rudbeckia  speciosa Yellow  and  brown 24  to  30 

♦Pentstemon  heterophyllus Blue 24  to  30 

Erynigium  planum Steel  blue 24  to  30 

♦CEnothera  fruticosa  Youngii Yellow 24  to  30 

Heliopsis  scabra  zinniseflora Deep  yellow 24  to  30 

♦Campanula  lactiflora  alba  magnifica White 24  to  30 

♦Campanula  lactiflora  coerulea Pale  blue 24  to  30 

Dictamnus  f raxinella Rosy  pink 24  to  30 

Dictamnus  fraxinella  alba White 24  to  30 

Eryngium  amethystirtum Blue 24  to  30 

Funkia  Fortunei Lilac 24  to  30 

Funkia  robusta  elegans Mauve 24  to  30 

♦Digitalis  purpurea  alba White 24  to  36 

♦Polemonium  cceruleum Blue 24  to  36 

♦Polemonium  cceruleum  album White 24  to  36 

♦Thalictrum  aquilegifolium  atropurpureum Rosy  purple 24  to  36 

♦Thalictrum  aquilegifolium  album White 24  to  36 

♦Digitalis  lutea Yellow 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma Crimson 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma  rosea Deep  rose 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma  salmonea Deep  salmon  rose 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma  violacea Amaranth 24  to  36 

Monarda  fistulosa  alba White 24  to  36 

♦Pentstemon  Digitalis White 24  to  36 

Rosmarinus  officinalis Purple 24  to  36 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  163 

JULY— continued 
Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Sidalcea  Candida White 24  to  36 

♦Sidalcea,  Rose  Queen Rose 24  to  36 

*HeinerocalIis  aurantiaca  major Yellow 24  to  36 

♦Lilium  canadense Red  and  orange 24  to  36 

♦Lobelia  syphilitica Blue  and  white 24  to  36 

♦Lychnis  chalcedonica Orange  scarlet 24  to  36 

Lysimachia  punctata Yellow 24  to  36 

♦Clematis  recta  and  ft.  pi White 24  to  36 

♦Coreopsis  lanceolata  grandirtora Yellow 24  to  36 

♦Digitalis  ambigua Pale  yellow 24  to  36 

♦Digitalis  lanata Brown  and  white 24  to  36 

♦Echinops  Ritro Metallic  blue 24  to  36 

♦Lilium  auratum White  and  gold 24  to  48 

♦Lilium  candidum White 24  to  48 

♦Lilium  Thunbergiana Yellow  and  red 24  to  48 

♦Dahlias,  in  variety Various 24  to  84 

Agrostemma  coronaria Crimson 30 

Agrostemma  coronaria  alba White 30 

Asclepias  tuberosa Orange 30 

Pardanthus  sinensis Orange 30 

♦Asclepias  incarnata  rosea Flesh  pink 30  to  36 

♦Lilium  longiflorum White 30  to  36 

CEnothera  glauca  Fraseri Yellow 30  to  36 

♦Salvia  f  arinacea Blue 30  to  36 

♦Spiraea  palmata Crimson  purple 30  to  36 

♦Spiraea  palmata  elegans Silvery  pink 30  to  36 

♦Spiraea  ulmaria  fl.  pi White 30  to  36 

♦Spiraea  lobata Pink 30  to  36 

♦Hemerocallis  flava Lemon  yellow 30  to  36 

♦Campanula  Trachelium Purple 30  to  36 

♦Delphinium  formosum Blue 30  to  36 

♦Astilbe  Arendsii  and  vars Pin^  shades 30  to  42 

Solidago  rigida Orange  yellow 30  to  42 

♦Gladioli  in  variety Various 30  to  48 

Rodgersia  tabularis Yellow  foliage 30  to  48 

Cassia  marilandica Yellow 30  to  48 

♦Delphiniums,  all  vars Shades  of  blue 30  to  60 

♦Aconitum  Lycoctonjim Pale  yellow 36 

Thermopsis  caroliniana Yellow 36 

♦Tritoma  Saundersii Coral  red 36 

♦Phlox,  Miss  Lingard White 36 

♦Rudbeckia  Newmannii Orange  yellow 36 

Solidago  Shortii Golden  yellow 36 

♦Heliopsis  Pitcheriana Yellow 36 

Heliopsis  scabra  excelsa Yellow 36 

♦Lilium  umbellatum Scarlet 36 

♦Lilium  Martagon Purple 36 

♦Lilium  Martagon  album Pure  white 36 

Ly thrum  virgatum Rosy  purple 36 

Gillenia  trifoliata White 36 

Hesperus  matronalis Purple 36  to  42 

Hesperus  matronalis  albus White 36  to  42 

♦Rudbeckia  purpurea Reddish  purple 36  to  42 

♦Hemerocallis  Florham Golden  yellow 36  to  42 

♦Hemerocallis  luteola Yellow 36  to  42 

Centaurea  macrocephala Yellow 36  to  42 

Echinops  sphaerocephalus Bluish  white 36  to  42 

Asphodelus  luteus Orange 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  Brownii Blush 36  to  48 

Valeriana  coccinea  alba Blush  pink 36  to  48 

♦Veronica  virginica White 36  to  48 

Yucca  angustifolia White 36  to  48 

♦Pentstemon  barbatus  Torreyi Scarlet 36  to  48 

Rodgersia  tabularis Yellow  foliage 36  to  48 

♦Romneya  Coulteri White 36  to  48 

♦Hemerocallis  aurantiaca Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Hemerocallis  Thunbergii Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Liatris  scariosa Purple 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  tigrinum Orange 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  Batemanniae Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  croceum Deep  orange 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  Hansonii Yellow,  spotted  black 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  chalcedonicum Scarlet 36  to  48 


164  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCHPE 

JULY — continued 

Name                                                                           Color                               Height  in  inches 

♦Lythrum  roseum  superbum Rose  pink 36  to  48 

*Lythrum  roseum.  Perry's  variety Cherry  red 36  to  48 

Solidago  juncea Yellow 36  to  54 

*Galega  officinalis Blue 36  to  54 

*Anchusa  italica  vars Blue 36  to  60 

♦Spiraea  Aruncus White 36  to  60 

Senecio  Wilsonianus Bright  yellow 36  to  60 

♦Cimicifuga  racemosa White 36  to  60 

♦Physostegia  virginica  alba White 40  to  50 

*Lilium  maculatum Orange 42  to  48 

♦Helianthus  multiflorus  fl.  pi Yellow 48 

♦Aconitum  uncinatum Purple 48  to  54 

Achillea  Eupatorium Yellow 48  to  60 

♦Astilbe  Davidii Rose  violet 48  to  60 

*Astilbe  grandis White 48  to  60 

*Lythrum  Salicaria Purple 48  to  60 

Spiraea  venusta  magnifica Intense  red 48  to  60 

Yucca  filamentosa White 48  to  60 

*Physostegia  virginica Soft  pink 48  to  60 

*Rudbeckia  maxima Bright  yellow 48  to  60 

*Salvia  uliginosa f Blue 48  to  60 

Solidago  canadensis Yellow 48  to  60 

*Hemerocallis  f ulva Orange 48  to  60 

♦Hemerocallis  Kwanso  fl.  pi Deep  orange 48  to  60 

*Lilium  testaceum Yellow 48  to  60 

*Digitalis  gloxinaeflora Rose  colors 48  to  60 

*Lathyrus  latifolius Deep  rose 48  to  72 

*Lathyrus  latifolius  albus White 48  to  72 

*Lilium  superbum Orange 48  to  72 

Hibiscus  Mallows White  to  maroon 48  to  84 

Helianthus  rigidus  japonicus Yellow 50  to  60 

♦Liatrus  pycnostachya Purple  red 60 

♦Rudbeckia  laciniata  fl.  pi Golden  yellow 60  to  72 

♦Helianthus  multiflorus  maximus Yellow 60  to  72 

♦Althaeas Various 60  to  84 

Bocconia  cordata Creamy  white 60  to  84 

♦Eremurus  robustus White 72  to  96 

AUGUST 

Gypsophila  repens Rosy  purple Trailing 

Lithospermum  prostratum  and  vars Blue Trailing 

Sedum  album White Trailing 

Sedum  Ewersii Pink Trailing 

Sedum  stolonfera Purplish  pink Trailing 

Calystegia  pubescens  fl.  pi Pink Trailing 

Gypsophila  cerastoides White 3 

Silene  alpestris White 4 

Silene  Schaf ta Pink 4  to    6 

♦Colchicum  autumnale Various 5  to    8 

♦Globularia  trichosantha Blue 5  to    8 

Li  num  alpinum Blue 5  to    8 

Viola  cornuta  vars Various 5  to    8 

Callirhoe  involucrata Rosy  crimson 6 

Sedum  spurium Pink 6 

Sedum  spurium  coccineum Crimson 6 

Plumbago  Larpentse Deep  blue 6  to    8 

Helianthemum,  all  vars Various 6  to    9 

Hypericum  adpressum Yellow 6  to    9 

Sedum  Sieboldii Bright  pink 6  to    9 

Tunica  saxifraga Bright  pink 6  to    9 

Lotus  corniculatus  fl.  pi Yellow 6  to    9 

Armeria  maritima  splendens Pink 6  to  12 

Armeria  maritima  alba White 6  to  12 

Nierembergia  rivularis White 6  to  12 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Blue. 8  to  10 

Artemisia  pedemontana Yellowish 9 

Rhexia  virginica Rosy  purple 9 

Scutellaria  alpina Purple 9  to  12 

Lamium  maculatum Purple 9  to  12 

♦Papaver  nudicaule Various 9  to  15 

Anemone  hupehensis Rosy  mauve 10  to  12 

♦Dianthus  latifolius  atrococcineus Crimson 10  to  12 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON 


165 


AUGUST— continued 
Name  Color 

Opuntia  missouriensis Yellow , 

Opuntia  Rafinesquii Yellow , 

Wahlenbergia  vincseflora Gentian  blue 

Geranium  grandiflorum Pale  lilac 

(Enothera  caespitosa White , 

CEnothera  missouriensis Yellow , 

Satureia  montana White 

Statice  Gmelini Violet  blue 

Veronica  incana Bright  blue 

*Anemone  pennsylvanica White 

*Aster  Amellus  and  vars Various 

Coreopsis  rosea Pale  pink 

Dielytra  formosa Pink 

Eryngium  maritimum Pale  blue 

Potentilla,  Miss  Willmott Cerise 

Spigelia  marilandica Bright  red 

Saponaria  caucasica Blush 

Dianthus  cinnabarinus Magenta 

Calimeris  incisa Pale  lavender .  . .  . 

*Linum  perenne  album White 

♦Tricyrtis  hirta Orange 

Hieracium  aurantiacum Orange 

Hieracium  aurantiacum  rubrum Orange  red 

♦Phlox  Arendsii  var Lavender  shades . 

♦Hypericum  calycinum Yellow 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria Yellow 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  alba White 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  pallida Pale  yellow 

♦Aster  acris Violet  blue 

♦Aster  ptarmicoides White 

♦Geum  bulgaricum Orange 

Marshallia  trinervis White 

Polygonum  compactum White 

Sedum  japonicum  macrophyllum White 

Solidago  Virgaurea  compacta Deep  yellow 

♦Statice  eximia Lilac 

Statice  tatarica Reddish  purple . . 

♦Aster  Thomsonii Blue 

Potentilla  formosa Red 

♦Scabiosa  caucasica Blue 

♦Scabiosa  caucasica  alba White 

Sedum  spectabile Rose 

♦Sedum  spectabile,  Brilliant Amaranth  red 

♦Platycodon  Mariesii Blue 

Sedum  Telephium Rosy  white 

Statice  Limonium Purple  blue 

♦Heuchera  sanguinea  alba White 

Solidago  nemoralis Yellow 

♦Phlox  decussata  var Various 

^Achillea  millefolium  roseum Deep  pink 

Artemisia  stelleriana Yellow 

■♦Centaurea  dealbata Bright  rose , 

Euphorbia  corollata White 

Geranium  sanguineum Crimson 

Geranium  sanguineum  album White 

♦Helenium  pumilum  magnificum Golden  yellow 

Inula  ensif olia Yellow 

Inula  montana Yellow 

♦Linum  perenne Blue 

♦Lychnis  vespertina  alba  plena White 

Lysiraachia  Fortunei White 

(Enothera  Pilgrimii Yellow 

♦CEnothera  speciosa White 

♦Salvia  virgata  nemorosa Dark  blue 

♦Statice  latifolia Purplish  blue 

Anemonopsis  macrophylla Violet 

Armeria  cephalotes,  Ruby Red 

♦Campanula  glomerata  sujperba Violet  blue 

Centaurea  hirta  nigra  variegata Purple 

Chelone  glabra  alba Creamy  white 

♦Chelone  Lyonii Rosy  red 

♦Eupatorium  coelestinum Blue 


Height  in  inches 

10  to  12 

10  to  12 

10  to  12 

12 

12 

12 

[2 
12 
12 

12  to  IS 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  15 
12  to  18 
12  to  18 
12  to  18 
12  to  24 
12  to  24 
12  to  24 
12  to  24 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
IS 
IS 
15 
IS 
15 
IS 
IS 

15  to  18 
IS  to  18 
15  to  18 
15  to  18 
15  to  18 
15  to  18 
IS  to  18 
15  to  18 
15  to  18 
IS  to  18 
IS  to  18 
15  to  42 


166  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

AUGUST— continued 
Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

*Heuchera  brizoides Crimson 18  to  24 

♦Heuchera  sanguinea Coral  red 18  to  24 

*Heuchera  sanguinea  alba White 18  to  24 

Heuchera  Virginal Creamy  white 18  to  24 

♦Hypericum  Moserianum Yellow 18  to  24 

Inula  royleana Golden  yellow 18  to  24 

♦Matricaria,  Little  Gem White 18  to  24 

Potentilla  atrosanguinea Crimson 18  to  24 

Potentilla  Vulcan Maroon 18  to  24 

•Scabiosa  japonica Lavender  blue 18  to  24 

Senecio  pulcher Rosy  purple 18  to  24 

•Stokesia  cyanea Lavender  blue 18  to  24 

♦Stokesia  cyanea  alba White 18  to  24 

♦Lychnis  cororiatia  alba White 18  to  2 1 

Alyssum  argenteum Yellow 18  to  24 

Sedum  Aizoon Yellow 18  to  24 

♦Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis Deep  blue 18  to  24 

♦Montbretias  in  variety Various 18  to  30 

Tradescantia  virginica Blue 18  to  30 

Tradescantia  virginica  alba White 18  to  30 

Saponaria  officinalis Blush 20  to  30 

Rudbeckia  fulgida Orange 20  to  30 

Solidago  caesia Yellow 20  to  30 

♦Achillea  Ptarmica  fl.  pi.  and  vars White 24 

Alstrcemeria  chilensisi Orange 24 

Artemisia  Abrotanum Yellowish 24 

♦Boltonialatisquama  nana Pink 24 

♦Campanula  Grossekii Dark  blue 24 

♦Centaurea  montana Violet  blue 24 

♦Centaurea  montana  alba White 24 

♦Coreopsis  verticillata Yellow 24 

Eomecon  chionan|;ha White 24 

Erigeron  speciosus  roseus Rosy  pink 24 

♦Gaillardia  grandiflora Orange  shades 24 

♦Gentiana  Andrewsii Blue 24 

Geranium  Fremontii Rosy  purple 24 

♦Heliopsis  Pitcheriai^ Goiden  yellow 24 

Lysimachia  clethroides White 24 

♦Lythrum  alatum Crimson  purple 24 

♦Pentstemon  gloxinoides Various 24 

Salvia  Greggii Carmine 24 

Salvia  Greggii  alba White 24 

Valeriana  coccinea Rosy  red 24 

Valeriana  coccinea  alba White 24 

Aster  spectabilis Purple 24 

Eupatorium  Fraseri White 24 

♦Pentstemon  puniceus Scarlet 24 

Veronica  maritima Light  blue 24 

♦Clematis  Davidiana Light  blue 24  to  30 

Eryngium  amethystinum Blue 24  to  30 

Heliopsis  scabra  zinniaeflora Deep  yellow 24  to  30 

♦Lobelia  cardinalis Red 24  to  30 

Lysimachia  punctata Yellow 24  to  30 

♦Platycodon  gradiflorum Blue 24  to  30 

♦Platycodon  grandiflorum  album White 24  to  30 

♦Lychnis  coronaria Red 24  to  30 

♦Rudbeckia  speciosa Yellow  and  brown 24  to  30 

♦Eryngium  planum Steel  blue 24  to  30 

♦Pentstemon  heterophyllus Blue 24  to  30 

♦Coreopsis  lanceolata  grandiflora Yellow 24  to  36 

♦Digitalis  lanata Brown  and  white 24  to  36 

♦Echinops  Ritro Metallic  blue 24  to  36 

♦Gypsophila  panculata  and  fl.  pi White 24  to  36 

♦Lobelia  syphilitica Blue  and  white 24  to  36 

Monarda  didyma  and  vars Various 24  to  36 

Monarda  fistulosa  alba White 24  to  36 

♦Lilium  auratum White  and  gold 24  to  48 

♦Delphiniums  in  variety Various 24  to  60 

♦Dahlias  in  variety Various 24  to  84 

Asclepias  tuberosa Orange 30 

♦Aster  Feltham  Blue Blue 30 

♦Campanula  lactiflora  alba White 30 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS,  SEASON  BY  SEASON  167 

AUGUST— continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

♦Campanula  lactiflora  coerulea Blue 30 

Clematis  heracleaefolia Pale  blue 30 

*Cimicifiiga  japonica White 30 

♦Eupatorium  purpureum Reddish  purple 30 

Pardanthus  sinensis Orange 30 

*Rudbeckia  subtomentosa Lemon  yellow 30 

♦Tritoma  tricolor Red,  yellow,  and  white 30 

Funkia  subcordata White 30  to  36 

CEnothera  glauca  Fraseri Yellow 30  to  36 

♦Salvia  farinacea Blue 30  to  36 

♦Tritoma  Pfitzerii Orange  scarlet 30  to  42 

Solidago  rigida Orange  yellow 30  to  42 

Vernonia  arkansana Purple 30  to  42 

♦Gladioli  in  variety Various 30  to  48 

Acanthus  mollis  latifolius Orange  foliage 36 

♦Aconitum  napellus  bicolor Blue  and  white 36 

♦Asclepias  incarnata  rosea Flesh  pink 36 

♦Helenium  Riverton  Beauty Bronzy  red 36 

♦Heliopsis  Pitcheriana Golden  yellow 36 

Heliopsis  scabra  excelsa Chrome 36 

♦Lilium  speciosum White 36 

♦Lilium  speciosum  rubrum Deep  rose 36 

♦Lilium  speciosum  melpomene Crimson  purple 36 

♦Lythrum  virgatum Rosy  purple 36 

♦Phlox.  MissLingard White 36 

♦Rudbeckia  Newmannii Orange  yellow 36 

♦Rudbeckia  purpurea Reddish  purple 36 

Solidago  Shortii Golden  yellow 36 

♦Tritoma  Pfitzerii Coral  red 36 

♦Aconitum  napellus Dark  blue 36  to  42 

Centaurea  macrocephala Yellow 36  to  42 

Echinops  sphaerocephalus Bluish  white 36  to  42 

♦Eupatroium  ageratoides White 36  to  42 

Cassia  marilandica Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Helenium  autumnale  rubrum Bronze  red 36  to  48 

♦Hemerocallis  Thunbergii Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Liatris  scariosa Purple 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  Batemannise Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Lythrum  roseum  superbum Rose 36  to  48 

♦Lythrum  roseum,  Perry's  variety Cherry  red 36  to  48 

♦Pentstemon  barbatus  Torreyi Scarlet 36  to  48 

♦Salvia  azurea Sky  blue 36  to  48 

♦Salvia  Pitcherii Bright  blue 36  to  48 

Artemisia  vulgaris White 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  Brownii Blush 36  to  48 

Veronica  virginica White 36  to  48 

♦Lilium  tigrinum Reddish  orange 36  to  54 

Solidago  juncea Yellow 36  to  54 

♦Cimicifuga  racemosa White 36  to  60 

Polygonum  cuspidatum White 36  to  60 

♦Romneya  Coulteri White 36  to  60 

Senecio  clivorum Yellow 36  to  60 

Senecio  Wilsonianus Bright  yellow 36  to  60 

♦Thalictrum  diptcrocarpum Mauve 36  to  60 

♦Physostegia  virginica  alba White 40  to  50 

Artemisia  lactiflora Creamy  white 42  to  54 

♦Helenium  Riverton  Gem Lemon  yellow 48 

♦Helianthus  mollis Lemon  yellow 48 

Helianthus  multiflorus  fl.  pi Golden  yellow 48 

♦Aconitum  uncinatum Purple 48  to  54 

♦Achillea  eupatorium Yellow 48  to  60 

♦Aster  N.  B.  Climax Clear  lavender 48  to  60 

♦Boltonia  latisquama Pink 48  to  60 

♦Hemerocallis  Kwanso  fl.  pi Deep  orange 48  to  60 

♦Lilium  Henryii Orange  yellow 48  to  60 

♦Physostegia  virginica Soft  pink 48  to  60 

Solidago  canadensis Yellow 48  to  60 

Stenanthium  robustum White 48  to  60 

♦Lythrum  salicaria Purple 48  to  60 

♦Campanula  pyramidalis Blue 48  to  72 

♦Campanula  pyramidalis  alba White 48  to  72 

Salvia  uliginosa Blue 48  to  72 


168  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

AUGUST — continued 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

Hibiscus  Mallows Various 48  to  84 

*Boltonia  asteroides White 54  to  72 

Rudbeckia  nitidus Primrose  yellow 54  to  72 

*Liatris  pycnostachya Rosy  purple 60 

Helianthus  multiflorus  maximus Golden  yellow 60  to  72 

*Helianthus  Wolley  Dod Deep  yellow 60  to  72 

Rudbeckia  laciniata  fl.  pi Yellow 60  to  72 

Bocconia  cordata Lavender 60  to  84 

♦Lilium  pardalinum Orange 60  to  84 

Silphium  perfoliatum Yellow 60  to  84 

SEPTEMBER 

Lithospermum  prostratum  and  vars Blue Trailing 

Sedum  Ewersii Pink Trailing 

Silene  Schaf ta Pink 4  to    6 

*Colchicum  autumnale Various 5  to    8 

*Viola  cornuta  vars Various 5  to    8 

Sedum  spurium Pink 6 

Sedum  spurium  coccineum Crimson 6 

Callirhoe  involucrata Rosy  crimson 6  to    8 

Plumbago  Larpentae Deep  blue 6  to    8 

Helianthemum,  all  vars Various 6  to    9 

Sedum  Sieboldii Bright  pink 6  to    9 

Armeria  maritima  splendens Pink 6  to  12 

Armeria  maritima  alba White 6tol2 

Nierembergia  rivularis White 6  to  12 

♦Campanula  carpatica Blue 8 

♦Campanula  carpatica  alba White 8 

Myosotis  palustris  semperflorens Blue 8  to  10 

Rhexia  virginica Rosy  purple 9 

Scutellaria  alpina Purple 9  to  12 

♦Papaver  nudicaule Various 9  to  1 5 

Anemone  hupehensis Mauve  rose 10  to  1 2 

*Dianthus  latifolius  atrococcineus Crimson 10  to  1 2 

Wahlenbergia  vincaeflora Gentian  blue 10  to  12 

Coreopsis  rosea Pale  pink 12 

*Dianthus  plumarius,  White  Reserve White 12 

CEnothera  missouriensis Yellow 12 

Polygonum  Brunonis Bright  rose 12 

Satureia  montana White 12 

Statice  Gmelini Violet  blue 12 

Saponaria  caucasica Blush 1 2  to  1 5 

♦Eryngium  maritimum Pale  blue 1 2  to  1 5 

Spigelia  marilandica Bright  red 12  to  15 

Cunila  mariana Lilac 12  to  15 

Calimeris  incisa Pale  lavender 12  to  18 

*Gentiana  alba White 12  to  18 

♦Phlox  Arendsii  vars Lavender  shades 12  to  24 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria Yellow 15 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  alba White 15 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  pallida Pale  yellow 15 

♦Chrysanthemum  arcticum White 15 

♦Geum  bulgaricum Orange 15 

Polygonium  compactum White 15 

Sedum  japonicum  macrophyllum White 15 

Sedum  maximum  atropurpureum Bronzy  rose 15 

Solidago  Virgaurea  compacta Deep  yellow 15 

Statice  eximia Lilac 15 

Statice  tatarica Reddish  purple 15 

Platycodon  Mariesii Blue 15  to  18 

♦Heuchera  sanguinea  alba White 1 5  to  1 8 

Solidago  nemoralis Yellow 15  to  18 

♦Geum,  Mrs.  Brddshaw Scarlet 15  to  18 

♦Geum  Heldreichii Scarlet 15  to  18 

♦Scabiosa  caucasica Blue 15  to  18 

♦Scabiosa  caucasica  alba White 15  to  1 8 

♦Sedum  spectabile Rose 15  to  18 

♦Sedum  spectabile.  Brilliant Amaranth  red 15  to  18 

♦Achillea  Millefolium  roseum Pink 18 

♦Aconitum  Fischeri Pale  blue 18 

*Aster  Snowflake White 18 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON 


169 


SEPTEMBER — continued 
Name  Color 

Centaurea  dealbata Bright  rose 

Geranium  sanguineum Crimson 

Geranium  sanguineum  album White 

*HeIenium  pumilum  magnificum Golden  yellow 

*Linum  perenne Blue 

♦Lychnis  vespertina  alba  plena White 

*CEnothera  speciosa White 

*Statice  latif olia Purplish  blue 

Aster  patens Bluish  purple 

♦Anemone  japonica  rubra Rosy  red 

Chelone  glabra  alba Creamy  white 

♦Chelone  Lyonii Rosy  red 

♦Eupatorium  coelestinum Light  blue 

♦Hypericum  Moserianum Yellow 

♦Matricaria,  Little  Gem White 

Physalis  Franchetii Orange  red  fruit 

♦Scabiosa  japor^ica Lavender  blue 

Senecio  pulcher Rosy  purple 

♦Stokesia  cyanea Lavender  blue 

♦Stokesia  cyanea  alba White 

Tradescantia  virginica Blue 

Tradescantia  virginica  alba White 

♦Phlox  decussata Various 

Saponaria  officinalis Blush 

Solidago  caesia Yellow 

♦Rudbeckia  f ulgida Orange 

♦Aster  spectabilis Purple 

Alstroemeria  chilensis Orange 

Artemisia  Abrotanum Yellowish 

♦BoltonSa  latisquama  nana Pink 

♦Campanula  Grossekii Dark  blue 

♦Centaurea  montana Violet  blue 

♦Centaura  montana  alba White 

Chrysanthemum  nipponicum White 

♦Chrysanthemum,  Shasta  Daisy  "Alaska" White 

Funkia  lancelota Lilac 

♦Gaillardia  grandiflora Crimson  and  orange . 

Lythrum  alatum Crimson  purple 

♦Pentstemon  gloxinioides Various 

Salvia  Greggii Carmine 

Salvia  Greggii  alba White 

Valeriana  coccinea Rosy  red 

Valeriana  coccinea  alba White 

Eupatorium  Fraseri White 

♦Anemone  Kreimhilde  japonica Rose  pink 

♦Anemone  Loreley  japonica Mauve  pink 

♦Anemone  rosea  superba  japonica Silvery  rose 

♦Clematis  Davidiana Light  blue 

♦Lobelia  cardinalis Red 

♦Montbretias  in  variety Various 

♦Platycodon  grandiflorum Deep  blue 

♦Platycodon  grandiflorum  album White 

♦Liatris  spicata Lilac 

♦Anemone  japonica  alba White 

♦Anemone  japonica,  Alice Silver  rose 

♦Anemone  japonica.  Prince  Henry Deep  pink 

♦Anemone  japonica.  Whirlwind White 

♦Caryopteris  Mastacanthus Light  blue 

♦Coreopsis  lanceolata  grandiflora Yellow 

♦Echinops  Ritro Metallic  blue 

♦Gypsophila  paniculata  and  fl.  pi White 

♦Lobelia  syphilitica Blue  and  white 

♦Dahlias  in  variety Various 

♦Aster  Feltham  Blue Blue 

♦Cimicif uga  japonica White 

Clematis  heracleaefolia Pale  blue 

Eupatorium  purpureum  maculatum Reddish  purple 

Iris  foetidissima Oange  red   fruit .... 

♦Rudbeckia  subtomentosa Lemon  yellow 

Polygonum  amplexicaule Pinkish 

♦Anemone  japonica,  Queen  Charlotte Soft  pink 

♦Aster  novi-belgii,  Saphir Sky  blue 


Height  : 


18  to  24 
18  to  24 
18  to  24 

to  24 
18  to  24 
18  to  24 

to  24 

to  24 
18  to  24 
18  to  24 
18  to  24 

to  24 
18  to  30 
18  to  30 
18  to  42 
20  to  30 
20  to  30 
20  to  30 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 

24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  30 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  36 
24  to  84 
30 
30 
30 
30 
30 
30 

30  to  36 
30  to  36 
30  to  36 


170  THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 

SEPTEM  BER — continued 
Name  Color  [{eight  in  inch's 

*Aster  novi-belgii,  St.  Egwyn Bright  pink 30  to  36 

♦Aster  novi-belgii.  Robert  Parker Lavender 30  to  36 

*Aster  novi-belgii,  Snow  Queen White 30  to  36 

Cimicifuga  simplex White 30  to  36 

Funkia  subcordata White 30  to  36 

Solidago  rigida Orange  yellow 30  to  42 

♦Vernonia  arkansana Purple 30  to  42 

♦Tritoma  Pfitzerii Orange  scarlet 30  to  42 

♦Gladioli  in  variety Various 30  to  48 

Solidago  speciosa Yellow 30  to  48 

♦Delphiniums,  all  vars Various  blues 30  to  60 

♦Aconitum  napellus  bicolor Blue  and  white 36 

♦Anemone  japonica,  Geante  Blanche White 36 

Aster  formosissimus Violet 36 

♦Aster  novi-belgii,  Herbstelf e Lavender  blue 36 

♦Aster  novi-belgii,  Mrs.  Raynor Purplish  crimson 36 

♦Helenium,  Riverton  Beauty Bronzy  red 36 

♦Lilium  speciosum  and  vars White  to  pink 36 

Lythrum  virgatum Rosy  purple 36 

♦Phlox,  MissLingard White 36 

♦Rudbeckia  Newmannii Orange  yellow 36 

Rudbeckia  purpurea Reddish  purple 36 

♦Aster  novi-belgii,  Mme.  Soyneuse Light  blue 36  to  40 

♦Echinops  sphaerocephalus Bluish  white 36  to  42 

♦Eupatorium  ageratoides White 36  to  42 

Artemisia  vulgaris White 36  to  48 

♦Aster  laevis Light  blue 36  to  48 

♦Aconitum  Napellus Dark  blue 36  to  48 

♦Aster  Beauty  of  Colwall Lavender  blue 36  to  48 

♦Aster  Peggy  Ballard Lavender  blue 36  to  48 

♦Lythrum  roseum  superbum Rose 36  to  48 

♦Lythrum  roseum.  Perry's  variety Cherry  red 36  to  48 

♦Pyrethrum  uliginosum  stellatum White 36  to  48 

♦Salvia  azurea Sky  blue 36  to  48 

♦Salvia  Pitcheri Bright  blue 36  to  48 

Polygonum  cuspidatum White 36  to  60 

Senecio  clivorum Yellow 36  to  60 

♦Thalictrum  dipterocarpum Mauve 36  to  60 

♦Tritoma  uvaria  grandiflora Reddish  salmon 39  to  48 

♦Physostegia  virginica  alba White 40  to  50 

Cimicifuga  dahurica Creamy  white 42 

♦Aster  turbinellus Purple  blue 42  to  48 

Artemisia  lactiflora Creamy  white 42  to  54 

♦Aster  novae-angliae Purplish  violet 48 

♦Aster  novje-anglise,  Lillian  Fardel Bright  mauve 48 

♦Aster  novae-angliae  rosea Purple  mauve 48 

♦Helenjum  autumnale  rubrum Brorize  red 48 

♦Helenium,  Riverton  Gem Golden  yellow 48 

♦Helianthus  mollis Lemon  yellow 48 

♦Aconitum  uncinatum Purple 48  to  54 

Lespedeza  japonica  alba White 48  to  54 

Aster  cordif olius Rosy  lilac 48  to  60 

Lespedeza  Sieboldii Rosy  purple 48  to  60 

Achillea  eupatorium Yellow 48  to  60 

♦Physostegia  virgir^ica Soft  pink 48  to  60 

Rudbeckia  maxima Bright  yellow 48  to  60 

Solidagt)  canadensis Yellow 48  to  60 

Stenanthium  robustum White 48  to  60 

♦Salvia  uliginosa Blue 48  to  70 

♦Boltonia  latisquama Pink 48  to  72 

Hibiscus  (Mallows) White  to  maroon 48  to  84 

Clematis  stans Blue 54  to  60 

♦Aconitum  Wilsonii Violet  blue 54  to  72 

♦Helenium  autumnale  superbum Yellow 60  to  72 

Helianthus  giganteus Pale  yellow 60  to  72 

♦Helianthus,  Wolley  Dod Deep  yellow 60  to  72 

♦Rudbeckia  laciniata  fl.  pi Golden  yellow 60  to  72 

Rudbeckia  nitida Primrose  yellow 60  to  72 

Silphium  perfoliatum Yellow 60  to  84 

♦Boltonia  asteroides Lavender 60  to  84 


HERBACEOUS  PERENNIALS  SEASON  BY  SEASON  171 

OCTOBER  AND  NOVEMBER 

Name  Color  Height  in  inches 

*Silene  Schafta Pink 4  to    6 

*Viola  cornuta  vars V  arious 5  to    8 

Anemone  hupehensis Mauve  rose 10  to  12 

Spigelia  marilandica Bright  red 12  to  15 

Hieracium  aurantiacum Orange 12  to  24 

Hieracium  aurantiacum  rubrum Orange  red 12  to  24 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria Yellow IS 

*Anthemis  tinctoria  alba White 15 

♦Anthemis  tinctoria  pallida Pale  yellow 15 

♦Chrysanthemum  arcticum White 15 

Sedum  maximum  atropurpureum Bronzy  rose 15 

*Sedum  spectabile Rose 15  to  18 

*Sedum  spectabile,  Brilliant Amaranth  red 15  to  18 

♦Aconitum  Fischeri Pale  blue 18 

Gentiana  scabra Blue 18 

Geranium  sanguineum Crimson 18 

Geranium  sanguineum  album White 18 

♦Matricaria.  Little  Gem White 18  to  24 

Physalis  Franchetii Orange  red  fruits 18  to  24 

*Aster  patens Bluish  purple 18  to  24 

♦Chrysanthemum,  all  vars Various 18  to  30 

♦Phlox  decussata Various 18  to  42 

♦Chrysanthemum  nipponicum White 24 

♦Chrysanthemum  Shasta  Daisy  "Alaska" White 24 

♦Gaillardia  grandiflora Orange  and  crimson 24 

Valeriana  coccinea Rosy  red 24 

Valeriana  coccinea  alba White 24 

♦Anemone  japonica  varieties Various 24  to  36 

♦Aster,  same  vars.  as  September Various 24  to  60 

Iris  foetidissima Orange  red  fruits 30 

Rudbeckia  subtomentosa Lemon  yellow 30 

Polygonum  amplexicaule Pinkish 30  to  36 

♦Gladioli  in  variety Various 30  to  48 

♦Caryopteris  Mastacanthus Light  blue 30  to  36 

Cimicifuga  simplex White 30  to  36 

♦Rudbeckia  purpurea Reddish  purple 36 

Solidago  speciosa Yellow 36  to  48 

♦Tritoma  uvaria  grandiflora Reddish  salmon 36  to  60 

♦Aster  turbinellus Purple  blue 42  to  48 

Lespedeza  japonica  alba White 48  to  54 

♦Aster  cordifolius Rosy  lilac 48  to  60 

♦Salvia  uliginosa Blue 48  to  72 

Lespedeza  Sieboldii Rosy  purple 50  to  60 

Clematis  stans Blue 54  to  60 

Rudbeckia  nitida Primrose  yellow 54  to  72 

♦Aster  tataricus Bluish  violet 60  to  72 

Helianthus  giganteus Canary  yellow 60  to  72 

Helianthus  Maximilianus Golden  yellow 60  to  84 

♦Boltoniaasteroides Lavender 60  to  84 

*Dahlias  in  variety Various 24  to  84 


INDEX 

(Figures  in  italics  refer  to  illustrations.) 


PAGE 
Accent  material 83 

points 56 

Accessories,  Garden 109 

Acid  phosphate 18 

Adjoining  properties,  One  drive  for.   28 

Alkanite 79 

Alpine  plants 47,  103 

American  Rose  Society  Annual 93 

Annuals 97 

Approach  to  house 10 

Aquatics 146 

Arbors 85 

Arch,  Construction  of 117 

Arches 118 

Architectural  Style 5 

Arrangement  of  home  grounds 12 

of  Perennials 95 

of  walks  and  drives.  .21,  22,  23, 

24  25,  26,  27,  29,  30,  31.  33 

Ashler  walls 44 

Athletic  field.  Plan  of 120 

Autumn  coloring.  Plants  for 139 

Avenue  trees 142 

Axis  of  house 32 

The  garden, 85 

Baby  Rambler  Roses,  Pruning 93 

Back  pointing 41 

Background,  Trees  in  the 54 

Bailey  quoted,  L.  H 3 

Banks,  Planting 67 

Barberry,  Japanese 48 

Bark,  Trees   and  shrubs  with    col- 
ored  141 

Barrier  wall 42 

Baseball  diamond 124 

"Basket"  pattern  for  path 37 

Belvideres 85 

Bent  grass 21 

Berry  bearing  shrubs  and  trees 137 

Binding  banks.  Plants  for 133 

Birch 7 

Birds,  Plants  attractive  to 138 

"Blinded,"  Peonies 68 

Blue  Grass 21 

Bonding 42 

Bonemeal 18 


P.\GE 

Border,  Informal 58 

Perennial  or  Hardy 93,  98 

plans 92,  94,  96 

Plant  materials  in 79 

Planting  the 57 

Shrubbery 2 

Bowling  green 126 

Branching  walk 63 

Brick  path 37,  38 

Brick  wall  construction 41 

Brick  walks 32,  35 

Brick  work 42 

Bridal  Wreath 75 

Broken  ashler 44 

Budded  Roses 89 

Building  a  rock  garden 102 

Bulbs 98 

Planting 98 

Protecting 78 

Bush  Honeysuckles 81 

Buttresses  in  walls 44 

Caroline  Testout  Rose 92 

Catch  basins 39,  40 

Cement  walks 31,  33 

Character  in  design 3 

Cinder  walk 31 

Circular  bed.  Bulbs  in 98 

City  conditions.  Plants  for 141 

Classes  of  bulbs 98 

of  rock 101 

Claypool,  Construction  of 105 

Clay  puddling  process 10 

Clearing  land 9 

Climbing  Roses,  Planting 90 

Pruning 92 

Cobblestone  walk 33 

Colonial  house,  The 54 

Color  effects  in  formal  gardens 87 

Color,  Elements  of 81 

in  the  garden 80,  81,  83 

intensity 81 

proportions 83 

value 81 

Colored  foliage.  Shrubs  with 139 

Columns  of  pergola 117 

Complementary  colors 81 

173 


174 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


Concrete  gutter 39 

roads 38 

Construction  of  arch 117 

of  ashler  walls 43 

of  clay  pool 105 

of  driveway 39 

of  formal  pool 104 

of  paths 34,   35,   36,   37,38 

of  pergola 113,  114 

of  rockery 100 

of  Rose  bed 87 

Contrast  colors 81 

Cooperative  drive 33 

Coping  for  pools 108 

Corner  planting 56,    57 

Correctly  planted  tree 68 

Cottonseed  meal 18 

Course  ashler  wall 44 

Cow  Peas 18 

Crocus 98 

Croquet  ground 128 

Crushed  stone  walks 31 

Curling  area 122 

Curves  in  walks 25 

Cutting  the  lawn 21 

Cypress 113 

Depth  to  plant,  Proper 68 

Design,  Garden 81 

of  retaining  wall 46 

Principles  of 3 

Diamond,  Baseball 124 

Distances  for  planting 50 

Diverging  roads 19 

Divisions  of  the  home  grounds 53 

Dorothy  Perkins  Rose 92 

Drain,  Outlet  for 16 

Drainage 8,  15 

of  Roads 39 

Drive   Arrangements.  .  .21,  22,  23,  26, 
27,  28,  29,  30,  31,  32,  33 

service 30 

Drive  turn 28 

Drives  and  walks 25 

Drives,  Construction  of 36 

Driveway,  Waterbound  macadam.  .   39 

Well  planned 62 

Dry  soils,  Plants  for 130 

Dry  walls 45,  47 

Dry  well 16,  17 

Dwarf  evergreens 104 

hedge  plants 135 

shrubs 127 

trees,  Jr.panese 77 


PAGE 

Dynamite,  Clearing  land  with 9 

Planting  with 65,  69 

Elements  of  color 81 

English  house,  The 54 

Entrance,  The 26 

Entrance  to  an  estate 20 

Evergreen,  Planting  an 70 

Evergreens 56,  61 

Protecting 78 

Pruning 76 

Exposure,  Best 8 

Fall  planting 68 

Fertilizer 18 

Fescue 21 

Field  stone  walk 33 

Filler  material 83 

Filling  (in  a  wall) 41 

Finish  in  design 4 

of  pergola 117 

Flagstone  walk 33,  35 

Floor  of  pergola 116,  118 

Flowering  shrubs,  pruning 75,  76 

Succession  of  bloom  in 148 

Flush  joint 41 

Foliage  color SO 

Foliage,    Trees     and    shrubs    with 

colored  or  variegated 139 

Formal  gardens 82,  83,  84,  86 

Formal  hedges.  Plants  for 134 

Formal  pools 104,  105 

Foundation  of  Pergola 117 

Foundation  planting.  The.  .  .27,  59,  60 

Plants  for  the 143 

Foundations  for  walls 44 

Fountains 85 

Front  lawn.  Grading  the 12 

Foxglove 68,  79,  97 

Framing,  Trees  for 56 

Frau  Karl  Druschki  Rose 91 

Frozen  plants,  Handling 67 

Garden  Accessories 109 

Color  in  the 81 

Design  and  making 81 

Gate 2,  116,  117 

The  formal 82,  i2,,  84,  86 

The  rock 99 

Gardens,  Rose 87 

Gates,  Garden 2,  116,  117 

General  Jack  Rose 91 

Geometrical  bases  for  formal  gardens  82 

Gladiolus 98 

Gnomen 109 

Golden  Bell 75 


INDEX 


175 


PAGE 

Goldfish.... 108 

Gothic  architecture 54 

Grading 11 

the  front  lawn 12 

to  save  old  trees 14 

the  suburban  lot // 

Grass  seed 21 

Grass  seed  mixture 21 

Gravel  walks 31,  35 

Grecian  architecture 54 

Ground  covers 144 

Groupings 61 

Groups,  Shrubbery 62 

Groups  of  trees  or  shrubs .  .  .18,  61,  65 

Gutters 39 

Guying  a  tree 64,  69 

Hardy  border 93 

Header 41 

"Heading  back" 73 

"Healing-in" 67 

Hedge... 25 

bordering  a  drive 27,  32 

Hedge  plants.  Pruning 76 

Hedges,  Plants  for  formal 134 

Planting  distances  for 48 

Plants  for  informal 135 

Pruning 77 

"Heeling  in" 62 

Herbaceous  perennials,  Protecting. .   78 

"Herring-bone"  pattern 38 

Hillside  planting 51 

Hockey  field 128 

Hollyhock 79 

Home  grounds.  Division  of 52 

House,  Locating  the 8 

House  Site 6 

Hue 81 

Hyacinths 98 

Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses 91 

Hybrid  Tea  Roses 92 

Hydrangea 75,  76 

Igneous  rocks 101 

Informal  border 58 

Informal  pools 106 

Intensity  of  color 81 

Interest  material 83 

Irrigation  of  dry  wall 47 

of  the  rock  garden 104 

Japan  Quince 75 

Japanese  garden 5 

June  Roses,  Pruning 91 

Junipers 104 


P.\GE 
Kainite 18 

La  France  Rose 92 

Landscape  construction 8 

Landscape  development.  Styles  of. .     5 

Larch 113 

Large  trees  for  general  use 119 

Larkspur 97 

Lawn,  Cutting  the 21 

A  graded 8 

Making  the 15 

Renovating  an  old 24 

Seeding  the 19 

Lawn    specimens,    Small    flowering 

trees  for 139 

Lilacs 75 

Lilies,  Pools  for 105 

Limb,  Removing  a  large 74 

Lime 17 

Location  of  rock  garden 100 

Locust 113,  116 

Lombardy  Poplars 49 

Macadam  driveway 37 

Making,  Garden 81 

Manure 17 

Marginal  treatment  of  pools..  .107,  108 

Materials  for  pergolas 115 

Plant 83 

Rapid  growing  plant 140 

Medium  Shrubs 123 

trees 121 

Montbretia 98 

Monthly  blooming  Roses 92 

Multiflora  Roses 92 

Narcissi 98 

Natural  hedges,  Plants  for 135 

Natural  style,  The 5 

Nitrate  of  soda 18 

Overhanging  rock 102 

Overhead  of  Pergola 117 

Outlet  for  drain 16 

Path,  Brick 37,  38 

Paths 95 

Construction  oi..34,  35,  36,  37,  38 

Peony. 68 

Perennial  border 93 

Perennials,  Arrangement  of 95 

Perennials,  Planting 67,  95 

Protecting  herbaceous 78 

Pergola 85,  113 

Single  post 113,  114,  115 

Specifications 117 

Uses  of 110,  112 


176 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


PAGE 

Picturesque  Style 5 

Pitch-face  ashler  wall 44 

Plan  of  athletic  field 120 

Plan,  The  planting 53 

Plans  for  a  border 92,94,96 

Plant  a  tree,  How  to 63 

Plant,  Depth  to 68 

Plant  materials  and  their  use 49 

Proportions  of 79 

Planting  Alpine  plants 103 

a  Rock  Garden 103 

a  Rose  bush S8 

a  tree 66,  68,  70 

Border 57 

Distances  for 48,  50 

Effective  shrubbery 57 

Fall 68 

Foundation 27,  60 

Herbaceous  perennials 67,  95 

Objects  of 49 

Plan,  the S2 

Pools. 107 

Principles  of 62 

Roses 89 

Shrubs 67 

Spring 68 

the  home  grounds IV 

with  dynamite 65 

Planting  table  for  bulbs. 99 

Plants  for  autumn  coloring 139 

for  city  conditions 141 

for  foundation  planting 143 

for  rock  gardens 145 

Pointing  brickwork 41 

Polyantha  Roses 93 

Pool  in  a  rock  garden,  A 104 

Pools,  Construction  of. .  .104,  105,  106, 
107,  108 

for  Lilies 105 

Formal 105 

Planting 107 

Poppy .....68,  79 

Pot  grown  plants  for  rockeries 103 

Potgrown  Roses 90 

Preparation  of  perennial  beds 95 

of  rock  garden 100 

Primary  colors 81 

Principles  of  planting 62 

Private  area S2,  53 

Privet 24,  48 

Proportions  of  formal  gardens 84 

of  plant  materials 79 

Protecting  cut  surfaces 74 

Roses 89,  90 

Protection,  Trees  for 56 


PAGE 

Pruning  evergreens 76 

flowering  shrubs 74,  75,  76 

hedges 76,  77 

large  limb 74 

Reasons  for 69 

Results  of 69 

Root 70 

Roses 91 

Top 72 

Vines 77 

Public  area,  the 52,  53 

Quarry-faced  ashler  wall 44 

Quoin  binder 41,  42 

Quoits  area 122 

Raked  joint 41 

Raking,  Importance  of 17 

Random  ashler  wall 44 

Rapid  growing  plant  materials 140 

Red  Cedar Ill,  113,  116 

Retaining  walls 42,  44,  45,  46 

Roads,  Diverging 19 

Drainage  of 39 

Rock,  Classes  of 101 

Overhanging 102 

Rock  Garden,  The 99 

Building  a. 100,  102 

Irrigation  in  the 104 

Planting  a 103 

Rock  Gardens,  Plants  for 146 

Styles  of 101 

Rocks  and  Stones 101 

Root  pruning 65,  70 

Rosa    rubiginosa 91 

rugosa 91 

Rose  bed 87 

Preparation  of 88 

Rose  bush.  Planting  a 88 

Rose  gardens 87 

Rose  Society,  American 93 

Roses,  Budded 89 

Planting 89 

Protecting 78,  87,  90 

Pruning 91 

Soil  for 89 

Rubble  wall... 44 

Running  Water  in  the  Garden 108 

Rustic  garden  seat 109 

Rustic  pergola 116 

Rye 18 

Rye  grass,  Italian 21 

Saving  valuable  trees 14,  15 

Saxifragas 103 

Screens,  Plants  for 134 

Seashore,  Plants  for  the 133 


INDEX 


177 


PAGE 

Seats,  Garden 85,  109,  111 

Seeding  the  Lawn 19 

Semi-public  area,  The 53 

Service  area,  The 52,  53 

Service  drive 27,  30 

Settings  for  a  sundial Ill 

Shade,  Trees  for 56 

Shaded  situations,  Plants  for 129 

Shape  of  formal  gardens 83 

Shrub  Roses 91 

Shrubbery  border 2 

Shrubbery  groups 18,  61,  62 

Shrubbery  planting.  Effective 57 

Shrubs,  Berry  bearing 137 

Dwarf 127 

Medium 123 

Planting 67 

Protecting 78 

Pruning  flowering 74 

Small.. ....125 

Succession  of  bloom  in  flowering. .  148 

Tall 121 

with  colored  bark 141 

Single  post  pergola 113,  114,  115 

Site  for  Rose  gardens 87 

House 6 

Size  of  formal  gardens 83 

Sky  line  effects.  Plants  for 136 

Small  flowering  Trees 139 

Small  shrubs 125 

Small  trees 121 

Soccer  football  field 128 

Soil  for  rock  garden 100 

for  Roses 89 

preparation 17 

Soy  Beans 18 

Specifications  of  brick  work 43 

of  pergola 117 

Spiraea  Vanhouttei 81 

Spring  planting 68 

Spring  flowering  shrubs.  Pruning...  .   75 

Spruces 104 

Standard  Roses,  Protecting 90 

Stepping-stones 27,  30,  .32,  35 

Stone  walls 44 

Stratified  stone 101 

Street  trees 142 

Stretchers 41 

Styles  of  rock  gardens 101 

Sub-grade,  The 9 

Subsoil  grading 7 

Subirrigation  in  dry  walls 47 

Suburban  lot,  Grading  the // 

Subwall,  The 41 


PAGE 
Succession    of    bloom    in    flowering 

shows 148 

Summer  flowering  shrubs.  Pruning..   75 

Summer  houses 109,  111 

Summer  pinching 70 

Sundials 85,  109 

Superwall 41 

Surcharged  face  wall 42 

Tall  shrubs 121 

Tea  Roses 92 

Tennis  courts 122 

Terminus,  The  garden 85 

Terrace 10,  13 

Top  pruning 72,  73 

Topiary  work 74 

Transplanting  trees 65,  71 

Tree,  Guying  a 64,  69 

How  to  Plant  a 63,  66,  68 

in  Winter,  Moving  large 71 

Tree  planting.  Dynamite  in 69 

Trees,  Berry  bearing 137 

Grading  to  save  old 14 

Groups  of 18,  61,  65 

Large 119 

Medium 121 

Protecting 78 

Saving  valuable 14,  15 

Small 121 

Street  or  avenue 142 

Transplanting  wild 65 

Types  of 64 

Use  of 54,  55 

with  colored  bark 141 

with  colored  foliage 139 

Tufa  stone 102 

Turf  walk 88 

Turn-around 27,  28,  31,  32 

Types  of  trees 64 

Unity  in  Design 3 

Use  of  Trees 54,  55 

Uses  of  pergola 110,  112 

Value  of  color 81 

Variegated  foliage.  Trees  and  shrubs 

with 139 

Variety  in  design 3 

Varieties,  Selection  of  Rose 93 

Vetch,  Hairy 18 

Vines  for  various  purposes 145 

Protecting 79 

Pruning 77 

Vistas 62 

Voussoir 41 


178 


THE  COMPLETE  HOME  LANDSCAPE 


PAGE 

Walk,  A  branching 63 

Walk  arrangements.  .21,  22,  23,  24,  25, 
26,  27,  28,  30 

Walks,  Drives  and 25 

Kinds  of 31 

Stone 35,  36 

Wall  building.  Terms  used  in 41 

Wall  construction,  Brick 41 

Wall,  Dry 45,  47 

Walls.... 41,  42 

Retaining 45 

Water  Gardens 105 

Water  Lilies 105,  107,  108 

Water  Plants 146 

Water  supply  for  pools 105 

Waterbound  macadam  drive 36 


PAGE 

Waterfall  with  pool 107 

"Weak  holes"  in  walls 44,  45 

Wet  places.  Plants  for 132 

White  Birches 81 

Wild  trees,  Transplanting 65 

Width  of  perennial  beds 95 

of  Rose  beds 88 

Wichuraiana  Roses 92 

Windbreaks 56 

Plants  for 134 

Winter  cover  crop 18 

Moving  trees  in 65 

protection 78 

Transplanting  tree  in 71 

Wintering  Water  Lilies 107 

Wood  Meadow  Grass 21 


J^.  Stflte  csm 


